August 19, 2020 - What is it like flying with Ryanair from Dublin to Split in the corona ear? TCN's Lidija Ivanek SiLa returns to her homeland and shares her experiences. 

After the first half of a very weary and odd year where we were stuck in the circle of 2km initially on the island of Ireland during the lockdown, grateful for our jobs and ability to work from home, to be able to think about traveling at the end of May was a light at the end of the tunnel.

At the beginning of the madness called COVID19, my thoughts were with my elderly parents and fear what will happen with them. Ireland closed the borders, stopped nonessential flights, and a phased roadmap was introduced. Chilling awareness that you are on an island in the middle of Atlantic and there is no easy way to get to Croatia at this point crept up and the first panic attack came with the thought – What if… what if something happens to them and I am not there to help them?

When Phase 2 and 3 of the relaxing of measures became valid, a lot of Croatians took the option to drive all the way, some 2500km with either overnight ferry to France, or 4 hours to the UK and then drive. We waited for the first possible flights. With the closing down the Ryanair base in Zadar and with the announcement that Aer Lingus will close their bases in Cork, we decided to book a flight with Ryanair from Dublin to Split. So, when the day of the journey came, everything was packed and ready, even the sky was occasionally blue and the drive from Cork to Dublin was a breeze. After leaving our car at the airport carpark, we put our face masks on with the intention not to take them off until we arrived in Split.

The airport bus was half empty, with every second seat marked with a yellow warning sign “The seat is unavailable – maintain social distance”. Yellow continued to be the main colour at the airport. Yellow warning signs and yellow hand sanitizer containers. If we add to this a half-empty usually packed airport, this was an eerie sight.

From the tannoy, a recorded message was played every 5 minutes about COVID and the special situation that we are in and how important is to keep face masks and social distancing. While this new reality was slowly sinking in, I felt strangely safe at the airport. It was a sad sight to see only Ryanair and Aer Lingus planes parked outside the window. I couldn’t spot any other company present, though on the Departures board there were some, like Finnair or AirBaltic. The terminal for Croatia is at the end of everything. After walking what felt like 5 km with our baggage, faces sweating under masks, finally, we arrived. A few people were already sitting on every second chair. After a few minutes of recuperating and recovering, I started to observe people around me closely, curious to see who are the passengers on this flight. Mainly the Croatian language was heard, as well as some English, Polish that I could recognise.

The plane was half full, I was actually expecting lower numbers. Boarding was coordinated with the crew and like good school children, we marched in one by one for our passport and boarding pass control. It went quickly and efficiently. We were seated with empty seats next to us.

Human nature is a funny thing. The minute one of the crew members announced that we have to remain seated the whole flight, with a seatbelt on and in case of bathroom emergencies, we should press the overhead buzzer for a crew member to assist so there will be no queuing, well, should I say that suddenly few passengers felt the urge to jump out of their seats, and rushed to the toilets causing a true traffic jam. It was the same as with face masks, the minute you put them on, you feel the itch and inevitable you must, just must, immediately scratch it, sticking fingers under it joggling to keep the mask on and still satisfy that excruciating desire to scratch.

While fluffy white clouds were passing beneath the plane, the crew inside was going with their regular duties, first a “safety-dance” with soon after time for “eat and drink and be merry”. Airlines are in deep problems because of the coronavirus pandemic and it is hard to find a good balance. I guess I am a bit cynical as I do find that eating and drinking with face masks on and then off and on again, a bit ridiculous. Ventilation on board was working full blast and I do hope that filters were able to stop the virus, but still why risk it at all. Keep that mask on your nose, it’s not that hard, for a 3-hour flight! Every penny counts for the airlines, every penny counts for the tourism too. After drinks were served, a jolly group of Irish youngsters, some ten of them started to show symptoms of mixing energy drinks with alcohol. The crew was trying to keep them in their seats, with masks on, giving over tannoy advice, urging to keep everyone safe on board, but it became really difficult. They started to walk on the toilets every 5 minutes, masks off, even singing like normal holidaymakers. The trouble is, it is not a normal holiday, is it? I don’t know how and why or even when it happened that Croatia became famous as a party destination. There is that balance again on how to have income from tourism, how to survive a pandemic, but still even now what type of tourism Croatia really wants?

Sitting in my chair, flying on clouds in the sunset, writing this article on my Mac in my lap, my hubby is just showing me that we are over Germany, I finally started to relax. Not a bad day for flying as we just avoided first serious seasonal storm that is due tomorrow. We landed in Split, Divulje airport. Air-filled with scents of wild plants. It was warm with essential oils of lavender and rosemary mixed with pine trees and salt from the Adriatic.

But the journey was not over yet. A land crew lady was pointing with her hand that we all need to approach the entrance door. We were not the only plane landing at the same time, at least passengers from one or two more were there, French, Czech language was heard. The amount of people that was one next to each other was far, far away of safe social distance. Unorganised, unprepared.

I was utterly disappointed with what we experienced there. Queueing for the passport control went on for at least half an hour. We were staying behind, waiting for as long as we can to be the last one. Yes, all passengers and staff did have masks, and there were few signs printed on plain inkjet paper warning everyone to keep the distance at least 1,5 meters, but there was none to actually coordinate mass of people. All in all, for a country that has tourism going for two centuries, it was a huge disappointment. Finishing my article today on a lovely terrace next to the sea, with blue sky above me and a cold drink in my hand, while the air temperature rises quickly to peak 32C, I feel that all the ordeal from yesterday is long gone and I am in the mood of forgiving them all. Everything fades on the Adriatic, disappears in the cricket song, like a mighty meditation mantra.

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June 30, 2020 - The latest news from around Croatia’s airports for flights to Croatia with updates from Split, Dubrovnik, Pula and Zadar.

Croatian Aviation reports that Austrian national carrier Austrian Airlines will introduce the Vienna-Zadar route in this year's summer flight schedule. The route was initially announced from the end of March with one flight per day.

Austrian currently operates from Vienna to Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik.

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The Vienna-Zadar line is being introduced, three times a week, from July 10. Type 195 aircraft will operate on this line every Monday, Thursday and Saturday, with the exception of the first day of operations when Austrian will operate on Friday as well. As we mentioned, the line was originally supposed to operate daily, with a larger capacity aircraft from the very beginning of the summer flight schedule, but due to the pandemic, it is being introduced only now, in July.

Although Austrian announced the flight schedule for July, there have been some changes and a significant increase in the number of weekly flights to Croatia.

The Vienna-Dubrovnik line was announced four times a week through July, but there has been a change, and the line will run as many as 6 times a week (from July 10), every day except Tuesdays.

The Vienna-Split route was to operate only three times a week, though the company modified the flight schedule to this airport and increased the number of weekly flights to as many as six (every day except Wednesday).

The Vienna-Zagreb route will have 8 weekly rotations with daily flights, with the exception that there will be two flights a day on the line on Thursdays.

Croatian Aviation also reports that well-known Irish low-budget carrier Ryanair will launch lines from Ireland and Great Britain to four Croatian airports this week.

From the beginning of July, Ryanair will fly to Croatia again. Flights to Zadar have already started (from Stuttgart and Vienna), while the other 8 lines from Zadar will begin operating this week.

From Wednesday, July 1, Ryanair will operate again on the route Dublin - Dubrovnik - Dublin. Flights are announced until the end of October and will take place twice a week, on Wednesdays and Sundays. As a reminder, before the pandemic, the company planned 4 weeks of flights on this line.

From Thursday, July 2, the company will establish traffic on the London - Pula - London (Stansted Airport) line. Flights on this route are also announced by the end of October, twice a week, on Thursdays and Sundays. In previous summer seasons, Ryanair operated on this line up to 5 times a week.

From Saturday, July 4, the Dublin - Split - Dublin line will be introduced, which should operate until October 24, i.e., the end of the summer flight schedule. Although Ryanair flew significantly more weekly flights on this route last year, due to the crisis and reduced demand, two flights a week are currently announced, every Tuesday and Saturday.

In the second week of July, from Monday, July 6, Ryanair will operate again on the London - Rijeka - London (Stansted Airport) line. Throughout July, only one flight per week is announced, every Monday, while an increase to two weeks of flight is expected from the beginning of August (additional flight on Fridays). This line will operate slightly shorter than the others, until the end of September.

Ryanair previously canceled the line from London to Osijek, and it will operate to four Croatian airports this summer as well. The line from London to Zadar has also been canceled in this year's summer flight schedule.

As for AerLingus, which usually flies from Dublin to Pula, Split and Dubrovnik, all lines (except the one for Split) were marked as sold out in July and it is currently not possible to buy a ticket. The company confirmed that they are monitoring the situation and will react by introducing lines as soon as the conditions are met.