October 30, 2020 - More artistic creativity from the Zagreb tourism chiefs, as 'Izvan Okvira' takes the Croatian capital's art beyond the boundaries and out of the box. 

One of the most interesting things is this most extraordinary of years is to observe how people and organisations have responded to these uniquely challenging set of circumstances. Some that I expected to respond creatively went totally silent, while others surprised in the opposite direction. 

In terms of tourism promotion, this has been a particularly challenging year. How do you attract tourists when budgets are cut, travel restrictions imposed, and COVID-19 measures introduced?

For many destinations in Croatia and beyond, the answer has been simple - sit and wait until next year and hope for better times.

But there is one destination in Croatia which has been consistently coming up with innovative solutions and initiatives throughout the year to provide new tourism content to meet the demands of the new reality. 

Zagreb. 

While others have had to deal with the effects of a global pandemic, Zagreb had the added tragedy of the devastating earthquake of March 22. 

Zagreb had easily the best promotion during lockdown and after the earthquake. Innovative campaigns such as Zagreb Loves You and From Zagreb Balconies kept the destination in tourists' minds - and if they couldn't travel right now, they could build up their desire to do so in the future, with campaigns to show every part of the city.

My favourite tourism initiative of the year was also from Zagreb - and a very simple but effective one at that. With the new reality pointing to more outdoor activity away from confined space, the city and county of Zagreb teamed up to streamline their tourist offer in a new initiative called Around Zagreb. 

By combining the sights and activities of The Great Outdoors of both the city and the county, the tourism experience is enhanced considerably. And there were plenty of new things to learn and try. Did you know, for example, that truffle hunting is quite popular in the forests around the city? Here is our fun experience in Turopolje recently. 

But how to celebrate art and culture, especially if some of the city's art galleries and museums are off-limits due to earthquake damage?

Think out of the box, embrace The Great Outdoors, and go beyond the boundaries, of course. And that is exactly what a new art and cultural exhibition is doing in various galleries in the capital from October 27 to November 27. 

'Izvan Okvira' (Beyond the Boundaries) is the latest expression of art to hit Zagreb. The exhibition is addressing the issue of art in public spaces, with a particular focus on the topic of renewal in Zagreb, as the city looks to rebuild after the devastating earthquake earlier this year. Rather than use the internal space of the participating galleries, the art has been moved outside to their facades. 

(Photo credit Boris Bare)

Using the buildings of the Museum of Arts and Crafts, the School of Applied Arts and Design, the Gradec Gallery and the Art Pavilion, the creative team of Nas Dve (literally, 'Us Two', Ana Mikin and Tina Kovačiček) and selected artists, these buildings have their art transformed 'out of the box' to create temporary open-air galleries, with exhibitions which reflect the history of the building, current situation and regeneration of the city after this year's tragic events. 

Each of these locations is arranged by individual artists, so street art artist Boris Bare and sculptor Ivo Gašparić will set up an installation "Outside" at the Gradec Gallery. The art pavilion will be included with two installations "New Landscape" and "Temporarily Closed" signed by artists Maša Barišić and Jelena Malenica, and sculptor Ida Blažičko will place "Hommage Bolléu" on the facades of the Museum of Arts and Crafts, the School of Applied Arts and Design.

At a press conference announcing Izvan Okvira, Zagreb Tourist Board Director Martina Bienenfeld said:

“Over the next month, we will be able to enjoy this unique project that beautifies and enriches the public space, revitalizes the city and provides a special art experience. Although, unfortunately, some of the locations are currently unable to invite visitors to tour the exhibition, with the intervention of our artists a particular building becomes a work of art, emphasizing the poetic idea that buildings have their own identity and soul. I thank the director of MUO, Mr. Miroslav Gašparović, then the director of the Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Mr. Antonio Picukarić, and the director of the Art Pavilion, Mrs. Jasminka Poklečki Stošić, as well as the School of Applied Arts and Design, who recognized this project and enabled us to realize it."

A little more detail on some of the exhibitions has been provided by the Zagreb Tourist Board:

1) MUSEUM OF ARTS AND CRAFTS & SCHOOL OF APPLIED ARTS AND DESIGN

Ida Blažičko – Hommage to Bollé 

The site-specific intervention on the façade of the historic palace built between 1887 and 1891 in the spirit of the German Renaissance was dedicated to the architect Herman Bollé. After the devastating earthquake in 1880, he became known as the restorer and builder of the Croatian metropolis. 

The Hommage to Bollé installation is inspired by boundless biomorphic motifs that permeate the Museum of Arts and Crafts and the School of Crafts, today’s School of Applied Arts and Design. The interior fences of the gallery are woven from stylized organic details with shapes that clearly foreshadow Art Nouveau.

2) ART PAVILION

Maša Barišić & Jelena Malenica – New landscape

A metal sculpture “growing” for a month, slowly covering the steps at the entrance of the Art Pavilion, temporarily closed after the earthquake. The reminder of a natural disaster becomes a garden covered with plants; metal ivy, a symbol of life and art that still lives and blooms, even in impossible conditions. Just like a self-seeding plant.

Maša Barišić – Temporarily closed

The earthquake caused the temporary closing of the buildings functioning as museums or art galleries. Having lost the ability to work, these buildings are left without their function, standing as a reminder of

the wounded city, in anticipation of a “revival”. Although the Art Pavilion is currently unable to invite visitors for the exhibition tours, through the artist’s intervention it becomes an artwork itself, inviting citizens to observe from the outside. The light emerges through the windows and pulsates in the rhythm of the heartbeat unique to living beings, emphasizing the poetic idea that buildings have their own identity and soul. 

3) KLOVIĆEVI DVORI GALLERY & GRADEC GALLERY

Boris Bare & Ivo Gašparić – Outside 

Large, framed paintings with motifs inspired by the content of the Klovićevi dvori Gallery are “coming out” of the gallery space and are placed on the neglected facade of the Gradec Gallery, turning it into an exhibiting wall for artwork. Oversized sculptures represent the audience which is an integral part of the exhibition, while accidental or intentional passers-by become part of the artwork on the spot.

You can follow Izvan Okvira on the official Zagreb Tourist Board Facebook page.  

For the latest news from the Croatian capital, follow the dedicated TCN Zagreb section. 

This is a sponsored post. 

October 29, 2020 - TCN joins Zagreb Volunteers Centre in Čučerje to find out who are the Zagreb volunteers and why they do what they do. Čučerje is a semi-rural community which lies at the epicentre of the March 2020 earthquake.

By the time we ran out of the building, the first tremor had stopped. At 6:25am, the asphalt road lay quiet and motionless. People in pyjamas, nightgowns or underwear stood on the pavement. Others emerged even later. Although masonry in other parts of the city continued to fall, the 5.5 magnitude earthquake that visited Zagreb on 22 March 2020 was over. It had lasted much less than a minute. Its repercussions would last much longer.

Damage to a Zagreb city-centre building in the 2020 earthquake © Franjo Tahy

The tragic news of a fatality filtered through the media several hours later, as did pictures of the devastation visited upon the Croatian capital's buildings. Some of its oldest were hit particularly hard. However, most modern constructions had emerged largely unscathed. Acknowledging the area's seismic capabilities, everything built after the 1963 earthquake of Skopje in neighbouring Macedonia had been constructed to withstand such force.

Offers of help soon began to arrive from overseas. Despite international struggles related to Coronavirus, many still had sympathy upon hearing of the Zagreb earthquake. This outside sympathy and the media that prompted it were rarely directed to the semi-rural communities which experienced the earthquake's fiercest force.

The front of the town church in Čučerje, surrounded by scaffolding seven months after the earthquake

The small town of Čučerje is just short of 11 kilometres to the north-east of Zagreb city centre. In late October, the town looks impossibly pretty – houses perched in the foothills of Mount Medvednica, surrounded by greenery and trees exploding in a myriad of autumn shades. But, behind the colourful exterior lies a hidden suffering.

The spire of Čučerje's church is scarred on all sides by long-veined cracks

Čučerje lies just 500 metres from the epicentre of the earthquake. Scaffolding bolsters the town church, its spire scarred on all sides by long-veined cracks. Back from the main road, down simple, country lanes, sit houses much older than those standng proud above the centre. Here, life still exists in a way similar to that of the original residents of such dwellings. Elderly neighbours are preparing to heat their homes by wood-fired burners, chasing away the chill seeping in through the cracks the earthquake has left. As winter approaches, such hardships are not always reported as loudly as those faced by the damaged cultural institutions holding priceless collections in the capital. But, the struggle does not go unnoticed by Zagreb Volunteers Centre (VCZ).

Čučerje residents and members of Zagreb Volunteers Centre meet in the community centre to plan the day's action

Established in 1998, Zagreb Volunteers Centre acts as a conduit between charities, communities and non-profit organisations who need support and those willing to donate their time to good causes. Since it was formed, over 18, 000 people have submitted their names to the centre as potential Zagreb volunteers who may be called upon. The centre has helped over 700 organisations find Zagreb volunteers.

“Before 1996, there was a set-up that facilitated international volunteering - it helped connect Croatians with international actions that were looking for help,” says 28-year-old Dunja Hafner, who works for Zagreb Volunteers Centre. “But, it was noticed that some people couldn't commit to an overseas trip and that others simply just preferred only to volunteer locally. The logical step was to move into facilitating that.”

Zagreb volunteers gather in the early morning mist

“Since we started, the numbers of Zagreb volunteers in our database has grown steadily. But, over more recent times, volunteering does seem to have become a more popular thing to do. And, many people have put their names forward for volunteering since the advent of the earthquake. In the immediate aftermath, there were so many people volunteering that we had to just direct people to the specific groups who were appealing for help. We even had to turn down some Zagreb volunteers who offered their time. That had never previously happened in the history of the organisation. Now, we are managing better and we help co-ordinate some of the actions ourselves.”

“Before the earthquake, the main volunteering areas to which we would send people were actions for children, the elderly, events like culture, sports and music festivals, animals, ecology projects and nature conservation.”

My name is Dražen Blažević (centre), I was born in Croatia. My mother and grandparents are all from Zagreb. This is the city where I live. At the moment, I don't have regular employment, so I can afford to give my time to an action like this. While I'm looking for a full-time job, I make ends meet by doing food deliveries on my bicycle. Why am I here today? Honestly, it was only two weeks ago that I just had this feeling that I should give my time to help people. In one minute I decided I would volunteer. Before this, the kind of help I would give was only to my neighbours, the elderly relatives of friends. People like that. As an official volunteer, this is my first time. Maybe this sounds a little selfish, but I thought it would make me feel good.



My name is Alexandra and I am from Čučerje. I live here with my family. Right now, I am without a full-time job, so I take on some other daily obligations – I accompany kids to kindergarten and school, and I help out in our local church. I look after their social media pages for them. I also play the organ in the church. It was a very simple decision for me to join in with today's action – I live here. I walk past the devastation left by the earthquake every day. This town has experienced lots of problems because of the damage. For me, giving my time today is a way of showing the love I have for my town and the people who live here. Well, something like that.



My name is Borut Babanić (right) and I'm from Zagreb. I work as a project manager. I wanted to volunteer so I could help people. The residents of Čučerje are some of the worst affected by the earthquake and so that's why I want to come here specifically. I wanted them to not feel that they are alone. This is the first time I joined an action via the Zagreb Volunteer Centre.

My name is Antonio Frinčić (left). I'm from Zagreb. I work for the Croatian Foundation For Children. It's an organisation that assists in looking after children and families who have small incomes or limited means. It's a state-funded organisation. My position there is a paid one. This is not the first voluntary work I've undertaken, but it is the first time I have volunteered through the Zagreb Volunteer Centre. My answer is the same as Borut's – I came here because I wanted to help these people.

Borut and Antonio are pictured side-by-side because they spent most of the day working together. When they arrived in the morning, they were strangers. They left as friends.

My name is Marina Krolo and I'm originally from Split. I studied in Zagreb, finished university here and then stayed. My regular role in society is that I'm a tour guide and tour leader. That pretty much means that this is my year off, ha! There's not much work for a tour guide in 2020, so I'm trying to put my free time to good use. This is the first time I've volunteered through Zagreb Volunteer Centre.

My name is Vincent Matijaca. I was born in Split. I'm based in Zagreb now. We opened a company BioCro LTD in the United Kingdom a few months ago. What we're trying to do is assist small producers and OPGs from this region to place their products internationally, including the UK and other countries in Europe. Why am I here today? Well, we believe that you can't start promoting sustainability and help solely from the office, we believe our project to be more hands-on. By doing that we hope to be able to show what we're about, and to set an example that perhaps others will follow. We've previously joined actions through other Croatian volunteer organisations and others internationally, but this is the first time we've done so through Zagreb Volunteer Centre.

Local people from Čučerje and the surroundings had prepared food to make sure the volunteers didn't go hungry. This dish was made and donated by a local hairdresser. It is a local speciality called tenka gibanica. It was delicious.

My name is Tomislav Vlajčić and I'm from Zagreb. At the moment, my regular time is spent studying economy and training football. I'm the team leader of a faculty-related group Tourism Lab that's interested in that area of our economy. This is my first time volunteering. I decided to come because it's a good opportunity to help people who are in need and I'm really glad I came. The experience was really worth it and meeting new people, seeing a slightly different culture is priceless. I would recommend it to anyone because it all starts with us.

For the latest travel info, bookmark our main travel info article, which is updated daily. 

Read the Croatian Travel Update in your language - now available in 24 languages.

Join the Total Croatia Travel INFO Viber community.

ZAGREB, Oct 28, 2020  - Zagreb Mayor Milan Bandic has made a decision to introduce free parking around health institutions in the city.

"The coronavirus epidemic has entered a dramatic stage, with the health system being under extreme strain, so with this decision I want to make the situation at least a bit easier for citizens who seek medical assistance," Bandic said in a Facebook post on Tuesday evening, calling on other towns to do the same.

The decision will be in force until the epidemiological situation normalizes.

For the latest travel info, bookmark our main travel info article, which is updated daily. 

Read the Croatian Travel Update in your language - now available in 24 languages

Join the Total Croatia Travel INFO Viber community.

October the 28th, 2020 - The ongoing coronavirus crisis might be wreaking havoc with the economy and seeing people lose their jobs, but Milan Bandic is committed to employing more and more people within Zagreb's city administration, regardless of the less than favourable economic situation plaguing the country.

As Poslovni Dnevnik writes, Zagreb mayor Milan Bandic plans to employ a total of 150 people in the city's administrative bodies by the end of this year.

Although 97 employees were planned to be hired by the city administration earlier this year, on January the 30th, that number was adjusted on June the 18th, following the lockdown, to include a further 15 new employees, and now, at the end of the year, the mayor has found that another 38 people need to be employed within the Croatian capital's administration.

When compared to the original plan from back in early 2020, this is an increase of more than 50 percent. Jutarnji list wanted to find out why there was such a big gap between the original plan, whether someone is responsible for this sort of poor planning, and how much the work has increased. They asked the City of Zagreb for an answer.

The figure on the second correction of the employment plan in the city bodies was published on Monday in the Official Gazette of the City of Zagreb. It follows that on October the 16th, Mayor Milan Bandic established that it was necessary for the City Office for Strategic Planning and Development of the city to employ four more people.

The city's Office of Economy, Energy and Environmental Protection, which initially planned to employ four people back at the beginning of the year, has increased that number by four more so it should employ a total of eight people by the end of the year.

For the latest travel info, bookmark our main travel info article, which is updated daily. 

Read the Croatian Travel Update in your language - now available in 24 languages

Join the Total Croatia Travel INFO Viber community.

October 28, 2020 - The latest news for flights to Croatia as Qatar Airways operates only once a week to Zagreb in November. 

Croatian Aviation reports that Qatar Airways reduced its traffic to Zagreb at the end of September, and the line will operate with a minimum number of weekly operations in November.

Qatar Airways canceled departures on Mondays and Wednesdays and will operate on the Doha-Zagreb route only once a week, on Fridays throughout November.

Under normal circumstances, the Doha-Zagreb route operated twice a day, with A320 and A321 aircraft, but since the outbreak of the global pandemic, this airline has very often changed its flight schedule to Zagreb, canceling operations in July and August for two to three weeks.

Since September, the airline has operated on this line only once a week, on Fridays, and one flight a week has been announced for November.

Qatar Airways will have a morning departure from Doha to Zagreb in November, while the departure from Zagreb is planned at 3:35 pm. Arrival in Doha is at 11 pm, which allows passengers from the Croatian capital to transfer to numerous flights to a number of destinations in Asia.

However, only one flight a week is not satisfactory, and the airline thus does not offer passengers flexibility in choosing the date of travel, so the low occupancy of this line (with the pandemic and travel restrictions) is not a surprise.

It is likely that when the situation calms down, Qatar Airways will return to Zagreb with a significantly higher number of weekly flights, but we will have to wait and see. A temporary suspension of traffic on this line is certainly possible, especially in the winter months ahead.

For the latest travel info, bookmark our main travel info article, which is updated daily. 

Read the Croatian Travel Update in your language - now available in 24 languages.

Join the Total Croatia Travel INFO Viber community.

October 28, 2020 - Central locations announced and the latest on a different kind of Zagreb Advent 2020. 

The most magical time of the year is approaching. As you already know, there have been many talks (and speculation) about Zagreb Advent 2020, Christmas fairs, and how jolly anything will be this year, given the current epidemiological situation. 

Whether Advent will take place at all and how it will be held in Zagreb is a question everyone is eager to be answered, and many were saddened by media reports that it was canceled this year. But that’s not entirely true. 

Namely, Zagreb Advent will be held, but not how we are used to enjoying the event, reports Journal.hr.

A few days ago, Zagreb Mayor Milan Bandić stated that they are still thinking about organizing Zagreb Advent this year and adapting it to the current situation. And on the official website of the event, there is a notice that more information will be known soon.

What we do know, however, is that there won’t be as many holiday houses in the city center as before, because the center will be relieved from crowds as much as possible. Instead, there is an idea to spread Advent to other parts of Zagreb. Locations in the center confirmed to spread the holiday magic this year are Zrinjevac, Strossmayer Square, and Tomislavac. At the same time, there won’t be any holiday houses on the surrounding streets where there are restaurant terraces.

The good news is that we won't have to wonder much longer. How exactly this year's Zagreb Advent will look should be known by the end of the week!

Due to the current status of COVID-19, many European cities have canceled Christmas fairs and those that have not are working on the organization to ensure that everything is in line with epidemiological measures.

Last week, it was officially confirmed that one of the most beautiful Christmas fairs in Europe - the one in Vienna - will be held from November 13 to December 26 with special measures. Visitors will have to wear protective masks, there will be a maximum of four people at the table, disinfectant dispensers will be available, and indoor activities will be canceled. The official opening of the Viennese Advent story should take place on November 13 at the traditionally largest and most famous Christmas fair in front of the town hall. Through the beautifully lit park in front of the town hall, the famous outdoor skating rink will once again be this year, and a popular tree decorated with hundreds of luminous hearts will be placed in the park again.

Apart from Vienna, the fairs in Graz and Salzburg, which will also take place this year, are very popular in Austria. In Germany, the situation varies from city to city, and the story is similar in France. Paris has canceled all Christmas fairs, and the famous Advent destination Strasbourg will not set up stands in the city center this year. London has canceled its most famous fair in Hyde Park, and there will be no fair in Budapest this year in Vörösmarty Square.

For the latest travel info, bookmark our main travel info article, which is updated daily. 

Read the Croatian Travel Update in your language - now available in 24 languages.

Join the Total Croatia Travel INFO Viber community.

October. 27, 2020 - The latest news for flights to Croatia as Lufthansa operates daily between Munich and Zagreb. 

Croatian Aviation reports that since October 24, German airline Lufthansa has been connecting Munich and Zagreb on a daily basis. The line has not operated daily since the outbreak of the pandemic, even in the summer months.

With the end of the summer flight schedule, Lufthansa has suspended traffic to Adriatic airports (Pula, Zadar, Split and Dubrovnik) and will have only one route to Croatia in this year's winter flight schedule, between Munich and Zagreb. 

After the outbreak of the coronavirus pandemic, Lufthansa reintroduced the Munich-Zagreb route, but it did not operate daily (3 to 5 times a week, even in July and August). As of October 24, Lufthansa offers daily flights on this route in its reservation calendar, which enables passengers from Zagreb to make numerous connections via the hub in Munich to destinations in Europe and the world.

On November 1, 3, and 8, two daily flights on this line have been announced

Lufthansa will use smaller capacity aircraft, type CRJ900, on this route, which has a capacity of 90 seats in the fleet of this carrier. After the outbreak of the pandemic, the company completely canceled the Frankfurt-Zagreb line and has not operated on it since last winter. The first flight has been announced for the spring of 2021.

11:20 Munich - 12:25 Zagreb 13:05 - 14:10 Munich

With one transfer to Munich, it is possible to continue the journey to a number of destinations in Europe, while destinations such as New York, Chicago, Toronto, Montreal, San Francisco, Bangkok and Seoul are available for long-haul flights.

The German national airline will operate on this route in the early afternoon in November. It remains to be seen whether Lufthansa will cancel certain departures according to bookings. Since the beginning of the pandemic, Lufthansa has operated to Croatian destinations in accordance with the announced flight schedule, without ad-hoc cancellations.

For the latest travel info, bookmark our main travel info article, which is updated daily. 

Read the Croatian Travel Update in your language - now available in 24 languages.

Join the Total Croatia Travel INFO Viber community.

October 25, 2020 - It has long been the exclusive preserve of Istria, but the Zagreb truffle hunting season is in full swing, with ambitious tourism plans for its development. 

A couple of years ago, I was enjoying lunch on the Lesic Dimitri terrace on Korcula with a main dish which included truffles.

"Did you know that there are truffles to be found over there on Peljesac?" asked my luncheon companion, motioning across the Adriatic towards the Peljesac Peninsula, a view a young Marco Polo would have enjoyed as a child. 

Truffles on Peljesac? Really? I had never heard of truffles in Croatia outside of Istria, a region whose outstanding gourmet offer is defined by the exclusive funghi which is highly sought after in the finest restaurants in the world. Apart from Italy and Istria, I was not aware that truffles could be found anywhere else, certainly not on Peljesac. 

On the contrary, said my friend confidently. And not only that, but he had heard that they are shipped to Istria and sold there. 

The luncheon conversation sat locked away in my head until very recently, when I was writing an article about the excellent new tourism promotion synergy between Zagreb City and Zagreb Country Tourist Boards with their new initiative to combine their offer in one fabulous - and extremely informative website called Around Zagreb.  Among the many activities on offer in and around the Croatian capital was truffle hunting. 

(Photo credit Taliah Bradbury)

Zagreb truffles? Really? This sounded even less likely than Peljesac. I decided to investigate, and I discovered that not only was Zagreb truffle hunting a 'thing', with its own organised tours, but that there were official efforts underway to develop the Zagreb truffle hunting experience into an attractive and more widely available activity just a short drive from the centre. And the more I began to look into the Zagreb truffle scene, the more interested I became, culminating in a family day out in and around Velika Gorica, close to Zagreb Airport, yesterday. 

Zagreb County Tourist Board director Ivana Alilovic took over the position recently and has been energetically looking at ways to add value and promotion to the considerable content in the region around the city. The Around Zagreb website is one concrete early result, but she was reportedly also very passionate about promoting the Zagreb truffle story, and she invited us along to take part in a hunt that was already organised. 

It was quite a day. 

A little online research and some conversations on the day filled me in with some useful information. Truffle hunting does indeed exist, and in various locations in oak forests around the capital - near Samobor, on Medvednica, and in Turopolje, near Velika Gorica, from where our day would begin and end. Some organised local truffle hunts have recently started, but the most results Google was showing for 'Zagreb truffle hunt' were tours to Istria starting from Zagreb. 

(Photo credit Taliah Bradbury)

Alilovic wants to change that by building up an eco-system of truffle tourism, which goes beyond the hunting experience itself. And while she has some way to go before achieving her goal, the building blocks are firmly in place, as we experienced on our refreshing visit to the forest, looking spectacular in its autumnal colours. 

After meeting at an arranged spot in Velika Gorica, we followed Ivana into the forest to a delightful wooden house managed by Croatian Forests from where the event would begin. 

In addition to the others taking part on their first hunt, we were also introduced to the dynamic duo, who ensured that our truffle-hunting day would be a success - Stjepan and Zagi, a truly fabulous team for five years now, of which much more below.  

There followed an excellent presentation on truffles in the region and beyond, with the many questions from the audience being answered. Far from being a closely guarded secret, Zagreb truffles have been for sale on Dolac market for more than a decade now, and the 4 truffle hunters before us had many years experience trawling through the forests of the region in search of this black and white gold. It was interesting to note that just like Peljesac, they too supply the Istrian market, and it is only a relatively recent development that Zagreb restaurants have started to seriously order local truffles locally. 

After all, a Zagreb truffle does not have the same aura of an Istrian truffle. A food blogger who was also on the hunt told us the amusing story of a famous player from the Croatian national team having dinner at a well-known Zagreb restaurant. Asking if the waiter could bring him a truffle to show his friends, the waiter returned with a Zagreb truffle, explaining that it had been locally procured. Smelling the truffle, the famous footballer expressed his dissatisfaction and requested a truffle that had come from Istria instead. 

The waiter disappeared and returned with the truffle which had come from Istria. What a difference, the player exclaimed!

It was actually the same truffle. Sourced in Zagreb, sold to Istria, then sold to the Zagreb restaurant. Perception is everything... 

Part of the plan to develop Zagreb's truffle tourism opportunity is to build a network of supporting partners, all of whom have a role to play in providing richer content for the tourism experience. 

Two local Turopolje restaurants, whose menus offer local truffle delicacies, were on hand to feed the hunting team with a selection of truffle dishes, starting with Babriga from Velika Gorica, whose team was on hand to serve breakfast after our welcoming presentation, the highlight of which was scrambled eggs with black truffles.  

It was time to hunt! Off we headed into the forest, before splitting up into four teams. I had already chatted to Stjepan a little and decided to stick with him. I was surprised to see him on his quad bike, as I had not expected truffle hunting to be quite like that. He explained that he was an invalid and confined to a wheelchair, and that truffle hunting was an escape from that reality. With his relationship with Zagi, it was clear that I had found a professional team who adored each other. 

There are many more technical descriptions of truffle hunting online, and I don't pretend to be an expert at all. I got the most joy watching the successful partnership of Stjepan and Zagi. Truffle hunting is quite literally like looking for a needle in a haystack. Unless you have a properly trained dog (Zagi started getting truffles in his food at a very early age five years ago), there is no chance you will ever find a truffle. With a well-trained dog, however... 

Was it beginner's luck? Literally within 20 seconds of entering the search area, Stjepan released Zagi, who ran about 20 metres and started digging. At this point, he was called off so that he did not destroy the truffle. Zagi was more than happy to be called off, as he headed to his master to be rewarded with a treat for his work.  

It was a great start, with an impressively-sized black truffle to give us encouragement.  

What a great partnership! The search for a needle in a haystack, with Zagi's trained nose the only hope. His effortless efforts reveal the hidden locations to bring joy to his owner, who rewards his efforts with treats which bring canine joy. Perfect! 

There were several kids on the hunt who were enjoying themselves immensely, but nobody could keep up with Zagi, who went off in all directions in search of treasures to please his master. It would have taken a videographer more skilled than me to capture the highlights, but here he is from distance, having found truffle number four.  

Some TCN photographers at the scene were taking things a little more seriously than I normally do...  

(Photo credit Taliah Bradbury)

In addition to the truffles, the wealth of mushrooms on show was striking. Perhaps something to think about combining into the tourism offer? A mushroom and truffle hunt, with the best of the edible mushrooms and truffles finding their way to your dinner plate after the hunt.  

To my shame, I had never been to Velika Gorica before (unless you count Zagreb Airport), and I certainly was not expecting to find what awaited us at lunch. A Michelin-recommended restaurant which specialises in seafood due to the Sibenik County origins of the family which owns it. Opened in 1994, Mon Ami has been on the Michelin list for the last three years, and Bruno Ceronja is continuing what his father started to produce a memorable gourmet experience.  

One of the luncheon ingredients was presented to us before we ordered - a 135-gramme Turopolje white truffle.  

In my opinion, Croatia should be marketing itself on the basis of safety, authentic experiences, and lifestyle. And for an authentic gourmet experience, combining local flavours with his Sibenik roots, Bruno pulled out all the stops. 

Home-made bread with his domestic olive oil  - we could try both the 2020 harvest, above (5 days old) or the 2019 harvest. There was a spiciness to both which I have not come across too often in Dalmatian olive oils - delicious.  

Rather than choose from the menu, we followed the excellent waiter's suggestion to try his recommendations, which resulted in an exquisite selection of starters of Dalmatian seafood classics. Black risotto, fish pate, smoked mussels, and the clear winner...

... tuna carpaccio with white truffle shavings on top.   

From seafood to fuzi pasta with truffles, and beefsteak for the main course, medium rare in a Turopolje truffle sauce... 

... with a little white truffle magic on top. 

There was no room for dessert, but room would have to be found, with a mix of Dalmatian and continental treats to round off what had been a truly excellent day. Traditional Skradin cake from Bruno's Sibenik roots, a supremely light rozada, and vanilla ice cream with pumpkin oil. The latter might sound an unlikely combination, but I have become mildly addicted since discovering it once I moved from Hvar to Varazdin. 

We were not quite finished with the food yet. One of the challenges (and opportunities) that Tourist Board director Ivana Allilovic has to build on this excellent start is to get enough related products and content to add to the main experience. But things are moving already in that direction, as we were introduced to a lovely lady over lunch who runs the Cipov bakery in Buševec village near Velika Gorica, and who gave us one of her truffle-inspired delicacies to warm up and try when we got home - strukli with truffles. It was outstanding. 

A highly educational day, and one with much food... and much food for thought. A simple concept, using the natural treasures of the local region to build up a tourism story based on a fantastic authentic experience in spectacular nature. I wish Ivana luck with her plans, and this is a story we will be following closely. 

And for those of you dining in Istria, I would be interested to know if the restaurants up there have heard of Turopolje Zagreb truffles. 

For the latest travel info, bookmark our main travel info article, which is updated daily. 

Read the Croatian Travel Update in your language - now available in 24 languages.

Join the Total Croatia Travel INFO Viber community.

This article was sponsored by the Zagreb County Tourist Board. 

As Poslovni Dnevnik writes on the 24th of October, 2020, a new Zagreb coronavirus testing site was opened in the eastern parking lot of the Zagreb Fair (Zagrebacki Velesajam) this Saturday. The opening was attended by the director of the Croatian Institute of Public Health, Krunoslav Capak, and the director of the Andrija Stampar Institute, Zvonimir Sostar.

This new Zagreb coronavirus testing location was made possible by the Croatian Institute of Public Health, the Andrija Stampar Institute and the Dr. Fran Mihaljevic Clinic for Infectious Diseases in order to reduce the crowds on Gupceva zvijezda and in Rockefellerova and Mirogojska streets, because in this new Zagreb coronavirus testing location there is a large car park sufficient for everyone who will come for testing.

Testing at the new location will be conducted every day from 08:00 to 11:00, according to a report from N1. Capak said the flow at the new testing site will likely be much higher, meaning there will be less hanging around and crowding.

"Please tell people come here, not to Mirogojska and Rockefellerova. The samples taken here go to the laboratory in Rockefellerova anyway. Feel free to just come here, we'll try to deal with all the swabs that come within 24 hours. Currently, HZJZ has a slightly reduced capacity because we have several positive employees and several of them are now in self-isolation. We have the capacity to cover both this space and the space in Rockefellerova,'' said Capak.

Sostar thanked the Zagreb Fair for meeting the needs for this location and also thanked Krunoslav Capak, who, as he says, organised to put this new Zagreb coronavirus testing location into function as quickly as possible.

"This isn't a joke, nor is it a game. Coronavirus has now also entered our homes for the elderly and infirm. We have reason to worry and as such, we should act accordingly. There are no foci, the virus spreads horizontally. We have more and more families becoming infected. Epidemiologists are working from 7 in the morning until 1 in the morning,'' warned Sostar.

For the latest travel info, bookmark our main travel info article, which is updated daily. 

Read the Croatian Travel Update in your language - now available in 24 languages

Join the Total Croatia Travel INFO Viber community.

October 24, 2020 - As of Saturday, the city of Zagreb and four more Croatian counties are on Germany's red list. Namely, Karlovac, Osijek-Baranja, Varazdin, and Bjelovar-Bilogora counties. 

T.portal reports that other Croatian counties were on the list already. Thus, almost the entire territory of Croatia, with the exception of Istria, Primorje-Gorski Kotar, Zadar, and Sibenik-Knin counties, is a risk area.

Returnees from these areas are subject to 14 days of self-isolation after arriving in Germany and reporting to local health services. A negative coronavirus test excludes mandatory self-isolation.

Based on the recommendation of the Central Epidemiological Institute Robert Koch, the German government placed the whole of Poland and Switzerland, as well as almost all of Austria, with the exception of Carinthia, on the list of risk areas.

According to the latest list, almost all of Italy is a high-risk area, while the Canary Islands have been removed from the list.

At the same time, Denmark closed its border with Germany due to the increase in the number of new infections in Germany.

Merkel called on citizens to reduce contacts

In her regular Saturday video message, German Chancellor Angela Merkel reiterated her call on citizens to reduce the number of personal contacts as much as possible and to adhere to hygienic measures and rules for wearing protective masks.

Police in Berlin today is intensively checking compliance with measures such as wearing masks in pedestrian zones and a ban on pouring and selling alcohol after 11 pm.

In recent days, Germany has seen a sharp rise in the number of new infections, which exceeded 11,000 on Thursday and Friday.

For the latest travel info, bookmark our main travel info article, which is updated daily. 

Read the Croatian Travel Update in your language - now available in 24 languages.

Join the Total Croatia Travel INFO Viber community.