April 16, 2023 - Croatian tourism may be centred on the coast, but for some truly extraordinary things, head inland - how about a $6 BILLION airbase built inside a mountain? Meet Zeljava.

One of the things I love most about living in Croatia is that there is so much to learn and experience, and there are so many things to see and do at a more local level that rarely make it out of the region. I am a naturally curious person, and I soon realised that if I started to scratch the surface of firstly my adopted island of Hvar and then later on Croatia as a whole, there was simply lots of fantastic content to discover and write about. 

Over the years, I had heard mention of some airbase called Zeljava which was mostly in Croatia but also partly in Bosnia and Hercegovina, which Tito had built between 1948 and 1968 at an estimated cost of $6 billion in today's money. It had always been on my list to check it out, and that became a reality over a drink with tour guide par excellence Iva Perokovic from Swanky Travel in Zagreb last year. 

Not only did Iva know ALL about this incredible part of Croatian history, but she also did an urban explorer tour to Zeljava. It didn't take much persuading for us to find a date to learn more. 

Located mostly inside a mountain, but also partly in neighbouring Bosnia and Hercegovina, close to Bihac, Zeljevo is an incredible complex which at its height, allowed MiG fighters to shoot out of the mountain onto the awaiting runways and be airborne within seconds. There are several entrances, and space enough inside for some 80 MiGs to park, from memory. At its height, Zeljava was a thriving community, with a mess capable of feeding 1000 people at a time, as well as multiple facilities  to enable those inside to last 30 days with supplies. THe huge metal doors were designed to withstand a nuclear attack the strength of Nagasaki. 

Here is a rare video of Zeljava back in the last 1980s, to give you an idea. 

Zeljava's fate changed considerably when the Homeland War started in 1991. As the Serbs retreated, they detonated tons of explosives inside the mountain to render the airbase useless. Locals in Bihac said that smoke could be seen rising from the mountain six months later. 

These days, Zeljava is guarded by police for a very different reason - with the open tunnels between the two countries, it is a possible migrant route. If you want to visit as a tourist, the police will not hinder you, but you are advised to take an organised tour. Check out our CROMADS experience in the video below, and don't forget the selfie on the Douglas C47 Dakota close by (see lead photo).

Zeljava has recently undergone another change in fortunes, as a local enthusiast has managed to get a concession on the airbase and surrounding runways. Last year he held a very successful speed race there, something that will happen again in 2023.

Video by 45 Degrees Sailing.

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April 1, 2022 - Looking to explore the real Croatia on the road less travelled? The Zagreb CROMADS Travel Club takes you back to the 18th century on the Kupa River and inside an incredible US$6 BILLION secret airbase.

After almost 20 years in Croatia, and just when I thought I knew most of its many impressive secrets, I realised that I knew very little at all. 

Our new CROMADS platform, showcasing authentic Croatia, 365 days a year all over the country, has been a huge voyage of discovery into the road less travelled in this beautiful land.  

Ever since the first event for the CROMADS Travel Club (you can sign up here), the quite incredible GINcredible gin education and tasting, the concept of a travel club offering unique and authentic experiences that are hard to find elsewhere has got me very excited. And if you are in Zagreb, that fun is set to continue next week, with two great tours showcasing parts of Croatian history that few know about. 

Did you know, for example, that Croatia has a secret airbase with 5 runways built into a mountain, whose construction costs were estimated at US$6 BILLION? One of the most far-out things I have seen on Planet Earth. 

But we start on Tuesday, April 5, with something a little more tranquil and historic - a wonderful day in nature aboard a replica grain ship on the River Kupa. A journey back in time, surrounded by idyllic nature, experiencing aspects of Croatia as it really once was. You can learn more here or check out the tour highlights below. 

⚓ AURORA BOAT EXPERIENCE
5th of April (Tuesday)
⏰ 15.30h -19.00h
 Meet in front of Ethnographic Museum Zagreb

*Welcome On Board Žitna lađa - Karlovac *
Let us take you out of the city and on a unique European tour down the Kupa river onboard “Zora” – a replica of the 18th-century grain boat.

PRICE: 40,00€/per person

✅Private 2- way transfer
✅Private tour guide
✅Private 90min boat ride on Kupa river
✅Finger food, homemade cakes, liquor tasting and two glasses of local wine

Limited spots so book yours at
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And for something really far out, the following day has us heading to the Croatian border with Bosnia to visit surely Tito's most unbelievable project - a huge military airbase built inside a mountain, located mostly in Croatia but also in BiH, capable of housing up to 80 MiG fighters. An airbase that was fully operational until 30 years ago. Learn more about the spectacular Zeljava Airbase. While Zeljava is the highlight, there is plenty more included in this fascinating day, including Tito's view of Plitvice Lakes from his former villa. Check out the itinerary below, and contact CROMADS partners, Swanky Travel, to book. 

A UNIQUE day tour to places you did not know exist.

Turbulent Croatian history has left a huge heritage behind including some amazing places that are abandoned.

1. The biggest and best kept secret project of ex-Yugoslavia stands today as a reminder of some different times - Zeljava underground airbase.

2. Another amazing location is Villa Izvor - one of the residences of former Yugo president Tito situated just above the source of Plitvice lakes.

URBEX TOUR
 6th of April (Tuesday)
⏰ 8.00h - 20.00h
Meet at Swanky Mint

PRICE: 75,00€/per person

*private small group tour

✅Private 2- way transfer
✅Private tour guide (urbex expert)
✅Željava underground airbase visit
✅ Abandoned Villa Izvor visit
✅ Flashlights for underground exploration
✅ Tickets for Museum of Homeland war

After the Ston Oyster Festival and a 3-tour day in Imotski, the CROMADS Split Travel Club will be back shortly with more authentic experiences in a couple of weeks. Stay tunes, or better still, join the CROMADS Travel Club and be the first to hear about the news.  Or follow CROMADS on Facebook.