Reviving lavender production on Hvar: a big undertaking, richly rewarding.
When I first came to Pitve twenty-five years ago, several people I knew had lavender fields and used to make lavender oil. I learned that it was a very laborious process, especially if the oil was produced by hand. Sadly I have never seen this done. Fewer and fewer of my friends and acquaintances harvest lavender any more. Numerous forest fires over the years have decimated the lavender fields. Going through the long process of re-establishing them is an almost impossible task for most people who have to earn a living to survive.
Happily, this situation is being turned around in the best possible way. Firstly, the annual Lavender Festival, now in its fifth year, provides a superb focus on the benefits of lavender for locals and tourists alike. Secondly, there is a big project which aims to revive and promote the cultivation of medicinal plants on Hvar. Through meticulous planning and preparation, the project has received substantial EU funding and is in the early stages of implementation. Work on the project has extended over two years and more. Under the aegis of Jelsa Council (Općina Jelsa), and with the cooperation of several partner organizations, the Association 'Dalmatica Viva', led by the indefatigable Adela Golub, has jumped its way through a marathon of bureaucratic hoops to reach the goal. Key helpers have been Mirna Bojanić-Rebac and Mario Vranković, and they have created a wide pool of supporters and partners in other parts of Croatia and Hercegovina (western Bosnia).
I have been trying for several years to go lavender harvesting, but never got the chance. While the Lavender Isle still blooms in glorious purple in June and July, there is a serious shortage of lavender bushes with owners willing to take the time and trouble to cultivate them. However, this is the year of the breakthrough, thanks to a chance meeting with celebrity photographer Jadran Lazić at TotalHvar HQ in the Café Splendid. When he announced he was going to harvest his first lavender crop next morning, even the 6am start was not a deterrent. The prospect became even more enticing when it turned out that two experts from Hercegovina, Miro and Tomislav, were coming over to demonstrate how the new distillery equipment purchased for the Dalmatica Viva project should work. All of a sudden, everything fell into place.
So, as readers of this blog already know, Mr TotalHvar and I made the early start to the top of the island for an unforgettable experience. Jadran's lavender bushes are young, of the type called Vera (lavandula angustifolia), which is thought to be the original of the species, and produces a very fine oil. Jakša was in full flow cutting the exquisitely fragrant stems when we arrived. It's a job where expertise and experience count for everything. He manipulated his mini-sickle at top speed - difficult to make out exactly where his hands went. How did he avoid slicing his fingers off? Within a couple of hours he had efficiently emptied the field and filled a couple of impressive-looking sacks with the booty. All fingers intact, he drove off to his next tasks, followed by his beautiful and cherished hunting dog.
We meanwhile headed off for the next stage of the oil production process. Down to Jelsa to collect the rest of the team, and then back up to Humac to the distillery.
Distilling oil is a very specialized process. As it is done under high pressures, the machinery has to be carefully regulated. Mistakes can be costly, as in the worst of cases the machinery can explode. So we were more than grateful for the expertise of Miro and Tomislav, who patiently worked through the whole process, and explained the details to Mario, who will be distilling the oils in the future.
The two sacks of lavender looked a bit pitiful, as though their apparent bulging fullness had shrunk to Lillput size. They were ceremoniously tipped into the tank, and the lid firmly secured in place.
Excitement rose as the first flow started to emerge: several litres of watery fluid, which was drained off to be used as a cleaning agent, and the precious bubbles of oil which were drawn into a separator.
The final tally: about two decilitres of lavender oil, and Jadran Lazić over the moon with joy. Definitely a satisfying result, promising well for future years.
It was a delight to be savoured.
Cameras were much in action throughout. Mr TotalHvar snapping away with the smart phone he affects to dislike and despise. Me, also snapping away, struggling with the slightly wayward autofocus on my clumsy digital 35-mill substitute. And Jadran coolly taking the odd snap with his very superior pocket-sized Canon.
Looking over his shoulder, I could see him setting all the different parameters before he casually clicked for the perfect picture. Well, he is the expert. Later Jadran described my camera-handling as 'cute'. Was he being encouraging / pitying / patronizing / rude?? Coupled with Mr TotalHvar constantly referring to me – obviously inappropriately – as 'young', I suspect both these young men of taking the Michael. But for such a perfect day, it's a small price to pay.
© Vivian Grisogono MA(Oxon) 2013
