Where is the best place to sit in Hvar Town? Everyone has their favourite places of course, but for those looking to linger and breathe in the special atmosphere of Hvar Town, my seat last week is hard to beat.
For most people, of course, the very best views are offered by Top Bar at Hotel Adriana, and for the wow factor overlooking not only the main square and waterfront (see above) but also the Pakleni Islands, the terrace at Top Bar is hard to beat. But the real gem for those wanting to pause and breathe the real Hvar atmosphere, the true gem is a few floors below.
Most people walk past the ground-floor terrace of Hotel Adriana and its excellent Butchery and Wine restaurant without giving it a further thought. Just another terrace looking out to the harbour, and one attached to a luxury hotel at that.
But this terrace is different, and it offers a unique chance to enjoy the different martime scenes unfolding before you while enjoying the finest hospitality from your hosts.
The first time I sat on the terrace was the only time I stayed at the hotel, in October 2012, with my wife. The abiding memory for both of us, even today, was breakfast on the terrace. Here is what I wrote back then:
"The real treasure of the Adriana for us, however, was breakfast on the terrace on the ground floor. With fabulous views and proximity to the waterfront, there are few places better location to watch the happenings of Hvar in October, as tourist boats, sailboats, fishermen and yachts gently go about their business in the harbour."
As I sat on the terrace again during a rather excellent lunch which included the famous Japanese Kobe beef which is now available at Butchery and Wine, I was trying to understand what was so seductive about that particular terrace. And with my meal over and dining partner gone, I lingered over a glass of Meneghetti Merlot and discovered the first clue.
The sound of the lapping of the waves. There is something totally seductive about the gentle sound of waves lapping just a couple of metres away from your seat. With all the noise of Hvar Town, it is something one can hardly hear in the waterfront cafes and bars. But at Adriana you can, as it is a little more detached from the town, and the soothing sound of water is an excellent accompaniment to the lazy lingering that this terrace encourages, be it for the substantial breakfast or afternoon lounging.
And then with your ears relaxing to the sound of the waves, it is time to indulge your eyes in a feast of maritime treasures. Hvar's harbour is famous for accommodating all, from mega-yachts to fishing boats. And there is no better place to observe maritme life from the Adriana terrace, located as it is across the harbour from the exclusive waterfront.
The sight of small boats bobbing on the waves this side of the harbour adds to the hypnotic effect of the sound of the waves. An idyllic fisherman's harbour, but one with history and tradition. Enjoy great views up to to the Spanish Fortress, which overlooks the town and is guardian to centruries of secrets, or look across to the largest square in all Dalmatia, home to the oldest public theatre in Europe and the birthplace of organised tourism in Europe in 1868.
Now move your eyes from the bobbing small boats further across the harbour to see the town's tourism in action. Speedboat transfers, catamarans arriving and departing, thee yachts of the rich and famous an the sailing boats stacking up. A movie set to beat all movie sets, with the theme music the sound of the waves.
As I finished my glass, I raised a smile. The memory of that breakfast, which had never quite left me, came flooding back stronger than ever. Two magical mornings that remain among my favourite experiences in Hvar Town. And with with an extensive and varied breakfast open to non-residents from 07:00 - 11:00 for 139 kuna, including use of the terrace, far from being expensive, I would rate it as one of the best value things on Hvar, for those looking to linger and take in the laganini pace of life.
And for those looking for the wow factor, simply take the lift to the top of the hotel. Two world-class terraces, and for very different reasons. Follow the Suncani Hvar summer on Facebook.
