May 17, 2023 - A wonderful collision of tradition, heritage, and FINALLY quality tourism content away from the beach, as Made in Croatia opens as Hvar celebrates 155 years of organised tourism. 

Something quite extraordinary happened in Hvar Town on Monday evening, even though it was uncharacteristically raining on Croatia's sunshine island. Indeed, perhaps the rain was a good thing, as it highlighted the event and the new addition to this season's tourism on Hvar. 

The location was a magnificent building on the corner of the largest square in Dalmatia, the date May 15 - exactly 155 years since the birth of organised tourism in Europe with the founding of the Hvar Health Society in 1868, right across the square where today luxury 5-star Palace Elisabeth hvar heritage hotel welcome's Croatia's premier island's luxury guests. 

The building in question is an extraordinary one, and one with lots of hidden layers. On the top floor of the imposing Arsenal is one of the island's secrets that often goes unnoticed by tourists and passers-by - the oldest public theatre in Europe, which opened in 1612, and which has recently undergone a complete renovation. 

Below the building, are Roman ruins which were discovered during renovation works a few years ago. And the main building itself is the magnificent Arsenal, whose name explains part of its illustrious past, guarding the entrance to Hvar's magical centre stage. ITs renovation complete, the Arsenal is a delightful multi-purpose entertainment centre, which has been taken over for the next few months for a quite magnificent exhibition which opened on the 155th anniversary of Hvar's organised tourism story. 

The Made in Croatia exhibition is an outstanding interactive showcase of the very best of Croatian innovation and invention over the centuries, featuring some 38 topics in an original and engaging way. Croatian tourism often falls short of quality content for all the family away from the beach, but here is an outstanding exhibition in a stunning location, which is guaranteed to bring in tourists and locals alike, and to educate and showcase the magic not just of Hvar, but also of Croatia. It would have been easy just to dedicate this exhibition space to Hvar and its considerable offer over the island, but what a fantastic way of representing the whole country in one prime tourist location.  

Our good friends from the Turisticke Price portal attended the opening: Here is what they had to say:

In the historic Hvar Arsenal, one of the trademarks of the city of Hvar, the exhibition "Hvar presents: Made in Croatia" was opened, which presents in one place the builders of the foundations of the Croatian identity, whose inventions, knowledge and ideas have become part of civilizational assets and artifacts of cultural heritage without which today it is almost impossible to imagine the functioning of modern life.

The exhibition "Hvar presents: Made in Croatia" is part of the program by which the Town of Hvar and the Tourist Board of the Town of Hvar commemorate 155 years of organized tourism in Hvar, and the opening ceremony was held on the very day of the founding of the Hygiene Society, the first such association in Europe, a kind of forerunner of tourist boards. that we know today. Back in 1868, spa tourism was the main reason for coming to Hvar, and with this exhibition, we want to focus on cultural tourism. Because Hvar, in addition to the beautiful nature, superb food and wine and vibrant atmosphere, is a city where culture is an integral part of its identity.

This specially tailored exhibition is a unique event in which, through a multimedia encounter with great men, their inventions or works of art that left their mark on the world level, a part of Croatian heritage is presented to the people of Hvar and their guests. The exhibition is on display until July 20.

Originality, visionary, wide application of ideas and inventions were the criteria for selecting the individuals represented at the exhibition. The unique national, scientific and cultural heritage is presented in the curatorial conception of Dr. sc. Anita Ruso Brečić.

@turistickeprice Hvar presents -Made in Croatia This is Croatia ✔️ #glagoljica #nikolatesla #bascanskaploca #slavoljubpenkala #rudjerboskovic #penkala #faustvrancic #lavoslavružička #doramaar #baltazar #ivanmestrovic #andrijastampar #jurajdalmatinac??? #torpedo #zepelin #parachute #petarhektorovic #davidschwartz #haniballucic #modric #drazenpetrovic #hvar #hvararsenal #croatia?? #croatiantiktok #fyp ♬ Memories - Lux-Inspira

Invention and art
The exhibition consists of a total of 38 topics. Some of the topics refer to individuals such as Nikola Tesla, Faust Vrančić, Doraa Maar, Slavoljub Eduard Penkala, Ivan Vučetić and Hanibal Lucić, while certain topics refer to groups of people (from the same field of activity) and separate cultural heritage specific to the island of Hvar and/or Croatia.

The main guiding thought of the exhibition concept is to create links between the inventive and artistic past, present and future. Various works of art, author's designs, patents, archival documents and videos can be viewed in the exhibition, as well as devices and devices created according to the patents and ideas of deserving individuals.

The Hvar Arsenal, itself a cultural asset of national importance, is once again becoming a unique exhibition space and a place for meetings, exchange of ideas, and perhaps inspiration for some new visionaries.

Excellent stuff, and I do encourage you to check it out if you are visiting Hvar before it closed on July 20. 

But that is not the only piece of magic in this most impressive of buildings, for upstairs in Europe's oldest public theatre, the 50th edition of Hvar Theatre Days kicked off (see the program below), a unique opportunity to experience this historic and delightful theatre. 

Hvar's special anniversary was remembered in other ways as well, including a special panel of influential tourism personalities, called Culture in Tourism. Tourism in Culture. From the Hvar Tourist Board Facebook page:

At today's panel discussion "Culture in tourism, tourism in culture", held on the basis of celebrating 155 years of organized tourism in Hvar, there were discussions about the connection between tourism, culture and creative industries, the valorization of cultural heritage and its inclusion in the tourist offer, what is the tourist potential but also what are the challenges we face.

The following participated in the panel:

• Tonči Glavina, State Secretary, Ministry of Tourism and Sports of the Republic of Croatia
• Renata Tomljenović, Institute for Tourism, Zagreb
• Nataša Bušić, HGK Split – cultural tourism section
• Ivana Vladović, director of Central Dalmatia Tourism Board Director
• Miro Drašković, director of Dubrovnik Tourist Board
• Katija Vučetić, head of the Department for Culture and Public Relations of the City of Hvar
• Damir Kanaet, culture manager and executive producer of the "Made in Croatia" exhibition
• Goran Rihelj, owner and editor of HRTurizam portal, moderator of the panel

Peak season is coming, which will attract a different type of tourist to this most versatile of tourist islands, but these last few days have been a powerful reminder of cultural and traditional Hvar, one of the richest islands in the Mediterranean for its history and culture. 

May 7, 2023 - Suncani Hvar Hotels' sustainable tourism efforts recognised in Bol. 

There is nothing like a short break on the adopted island where you lived for 13 years to fall in love with it again. 

Easter on Hvar was delightful, and I have taken a renewed interest in the island, as I learned that there are some rather interesting things happening. Among them seems to be a new push to better promote the culture, traditions and gastronomy on the island, of which they have an embarrassment of riches. Indeed, this month, in addition to the important Feast of St Propsper, Hvar Town's patron saint, the town will be celebrating 155 years of the oldest organised tourism in Europe, the 50th anniversary of Hvar Theatre Days in the oldest public theatre in Europe, and Mediterranean Diet Days, celebrating the 10th anniversary of Hvar's Mediterranean DIet being inscribed as intangible UNESCO heritage. You can learn all about what it is in store here. 

The island is also establishing its sustainability credentials, most notably the island's leading hotel group, Suncani Hvar Hotels, which we recently reported had become the leading producer of solar energy in Dalmatia. I guess living on the sunniest island in Croatia can't do any harm... 

The hotel group's efforts were recognised in Bol last month at the #BOL100 conference, which celebrated 100 years of organised tourism to the popular Brac destination, as well as aiming to build a recognisable island brand, focused on smart and sustainable hotels, green and digital transitions, coastal planning, and European funds. 

Suncani Hvar received an award in recognition of the most successful island sustainable projects for its solar panels, one of several winners. Suncani's leadership position in the application of energy efficiency and green transition programs was highlighted, setting new standards both in the hotel industry and in the economy in general.

May 7, 2023 - An historic month in Hvar Town, as Croatia's premier island prepares to showcase some important anniversaries - a divine time to visit.

In many ways, I think that Hvar Town is the complete destination in Croatian tourism, and I am not just saying that because that magical island was my home for 13 years. 

It literally has EVERYTHING. From the most UNESCO island heritage of any island in the world, and the oldest public theatre in Europe, to the most sun in Croatia and the birthplace of organised tourism in Europe. Oh, and THOSE Pakleni Islands. Whether you are looking for culture or wine (this, the island with the most indigenous grape varieties of any Croatian island), vibrant nightlife or lavender festivals, this is the place to come. 

But, as much as Hvar Town enjoys an embarrassment of tourism riches catering to all kinds of tourists, from family to party, it is also a very versatile destination throughout the year. July and August are obviously the busiest, where the beaches, bars and restaurants are packed, and the town is buzzing. But shoulder season Hvar is a much different proposition, and one where the slower pace of life and smaller crowds allow you to explore the rich heritage and culture of this incredible island. 

And there is no better time to visit than May if you want to explore the finest that Hvar has to offer. Especially May, 2023, a month of culture, tradition and gastronomy, while celebrating some rather important anniversaries. 

When I first started writing about the island on my Total Hvar blog back in 2011, May 10 was known as the unofficial start of the tourism season in Hvar Town. for this was the feast day of the patron saint of the town, St Prosper, a day of festivities, including Mass and a religious parade through the centre, a fair showcasing domestic products, and a competitive gastro show, where local restaurants come together to prepare dishes in friendly competition for tourists to enjoy. 

Times change, and the Hvar season is already in full swing, and the St Prosper celebrations this year have been extended to incorporate two significant anniversaries for the town. 

Some 155 years ago, on May 15, 1868, the Hvar Health Society was founded, with the first hotel on the site where today's luxury 5-star Palace Elisabeth hvar heritage hotel stands. It was the birthplace of organised tourism in Europe, just across the square from the Arsenal building, whose top floor houses the oldest public theatre in Europe, dating back to 1612.

Did I mention that this is a destination that has it all?

A destination which has it all must be known for its gastronomy, and Hvar certainly is. Indeed, this year, the island will be celebrating 10 years of inclusion - along with Brac and 7 other destination around the region - of its Mediterranean Diet listed as intangible UNESCO heritage. Along with the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Stari Grad Plain, intangible heritages of the Za Krizen procession, Benedictine lace, art of dry stone walling, and the klapa of southern Dalmatian, Hvar's six UNESCO heritages are the most of any island in the world. 

All these anniversaries and events have combined to bring a spectacular cultural start to the season for this outstanding destination, with a celebration of the Mediterranean diet, theatre and 155 years of organised tourism. And the festivities have already begun. Here are the key things that should be getting you onto a catamaran to Hvar Town this month:

Celebrations of St Prosper have now become and 8-day affair, starting with the salting of the sardines last Friday. You can see the programme above, with the main day being the 10th as usual, including a kids dance in front of the loggia. 

The Mediterranean Diet's 10th anniversary will be celebrated as part of the St Prosper festivities, with a special two-day programme celebrating the island's food and wine. You can see the full programme here. 

There will also be another anniversary, as the historic Hvar theatre will be hosting the 50th edition of Hvar Theatre Days from May 16-19, a unique chance for you to enjoy live performances inside the oldest theatre in Europe. You can see the programme here.

And, on the anniversary of 155 years of organised tourism, the opening of a rather excellent initiative, which will run until July 20 - the Made in Croatia exhibition inside the Arsenal and below the theatre.

One of the things I have noticed about Croatian tourism over the years is the tendency to just promote the immediate area, and so I am delighted to see that this multi-media exhibition covers the whole country, inviting visitors to get to know the greatest Croatian minds, exploring their inventions and achievements of civilisation, and to see the impact that they have had on the world. A superb addition of quality content for the town for over two months of the season. Among the Croatian minds represented will be the inventor of the pen, the parachute, and the godfather of dactyloscopy, Hvar-born Ivan Vucetic. As well as a certain Nikola Tesla... More on this here. 

From culture to sport, and Hvar is known as an activity island. It was here, for example, that Bahrain Merida chose for its cycling winter training. But the sporting focus on May 20 and 21 will be on pro basketball, with Hvar Town chosen to kick off a new Olympic sport on the island. 

In the beautiful surroundings of Hvarska Pjaca, enjoy the moves of 3x3 basketball masters. Great fun is guaranteed! After the spectacle in 2022, when the PRO 3x3 Tour was organized in the attractive locations of 10Croatian cities, this great story continues in the period from the second half of May to the middle of August 2023, and the first stop is precisely the sunniest island. You can visit the official PRO 3x3 site here.

An excellent few weeks of quality entertainment in store, showcasing the very best culture, tradition and gastronomy that Hvar has to offer. With free sunshine, beaches, as well as the availability of the Pakleni Islands thrown in. 

Is there a destination in Croatia which offers more diversity?

May 5, 2023 - How to preserve the traditions of Dalmatia and beyond? Meet the concept of the 'Olympics' of Traditional Dalmatian Games.

Dalmatia is a fascinating region with SO much tradition and heritage, the majority of it very localised.

Many events and traditions are specific to an individual village. And many of these traditions are sadly dying out or being lost as young people prefer to be online if they have not emigrated.

Over the years, I have come across so many unique experiences in Dalmatia, (and other parts of Croatia), and I came up with an idea to help preserve some of these traditions, as well as make them more accessible to locals and tourists alike.

Meet the 'Olympics' of Traditional Dalmatian Games.

Do you know of a traditional game played in your village which we could include? We have about 35 already. Please leave info in the comments below.

And if you are interested in helping to make this idea a reality and have something concrete to contribute, please contact This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. Subject Dalmatian Games.

With thanks to Hvar TV for the excellent footage. If you want to learn a LOT more about Hvar and Dalmatia at a more local level, I cannot recommend this channel highly enough - https://www.youtube.com/@HvarTV

Video produced by Igor Vuk of Wolf Media.

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What is it like to live in Croatia? An expat for 20 years, you can follow my series, 20 Ways Croatia Changed Me in 20 Years, starting at the beginning - Business and Dalmatia.

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Croatia, a Survival Kit for Foreigners is now available on Amazon in paperback and on Kindle.

May the 1st, 2023 - Hvar boat renters want certain permits that tourists must get in order to operate small vessels abolished, and want the Ministry of Maritime Affairs to introduce a different approach.

As Poslovni Dnevnik writes, Hvar boat renters are quite adamant in their demand for the aforementioned ministry to abolish the necessity of obtaining permits for tourists to operate boats up to five metres in length and with an engine power up to five kilowatts. They claim that in the European Union, with the exception of the Republic of Croatia, the only other country which seeks permits for the smallest vessels is Portugal. They propose that the Ministry allow Hvar boat renters to provide the training and issue the one-day permits themselves, as reported by HRT.

Zeljko Kustera of the Split Port Authority told HRT Dnevnik that the initiative had already started and that it was going to a public hearing.

"We deal more with security, and we deal with the economy. It's legitimate for people to ask for their work to be simplified and for them. We recognise 53 licenses from various countries, from Australia, Canada, America, Brazil... so these licenses can be used," he added.

Safety in navigation

"In order to be able to assess whether the initiative will threaten the safety of navigation, an accurate projection is needed. We must have an accurate projection. We have to take into account all the reasons for and against. The time to change the rules isn't just before the summer season. We work on navigation safety all year round, not just in the summer. As soon as the number of vessels increases, the possibility of maritime accidents also naturally increases," Kustera said.

Boat rentals are popular on the island of Hvar, as there are many islets and coves that can only be reached by boat

"They rent a boat to themselves for the whole day from 09:00 to 18:00, and during that period they're alone on that boat, they don't have any skipper, they have their privacy and enjoy themselves on that boat," said Ljudevit Karkovic from Hvar for HRT Dnevnik, who believes it's ridiculous to expect that a tourist will spend a day getting a permit for a one-day boat trip.

"Boats that go five miles per hour are very slow and in all these 40 to 50 years of renting them out, there has never been an accident with a major consequence, or an injury, let alone a death," said Mate Novak from the Association of Craftsmen of the Island of Hvar.

Permits for the smallest category of vessels are obtained anyway without the need for any practical training, only with a short oral exam. "When a man comes and tells me that he has a license, I have to show him everything again, how to start the engine, how to drop the anchor, how to tie the boat up," said Prosper Barbaric from Hvar.

One-day permits could be a practical solution for all

"There's a possibility, if there is a will, to open a branch so that these people themselves can bear responsibility for all the consequences of the vessels, and that they take a short course," explained Damir Visic, a court expert for maritime accidents.

Minister Oleg Butkovic does not support this initiative in principle because Croatian entry into Schengen will further increase the number of vessels in the coastal zone.

"It opens up the possibility for an increased number of accidents on the coast, so this decision is very delicate, I know, I'm familiar with it all and we will see, my position is not firm, I am always in favour of conversation and compromise,'' said Oleg Butkovic, Minister of Maritime Affairs, Transport and Infrastructure.

For more, check out our news section.

April 24, 2023 - All the ingredients are there for another fabulous season on Croatia's premier island, beginning with the opening of the largest hotel, Hotel Amfora.

I admit it, I fell in love with Hvar all over again this Easter.

Having lived there for 13 years full-time, Hvar will always be close to my heart, but it seemed the right decision to move back in 2016, and it was. But then when you return each time... 

Hvar in pre-season is among the best times to visit, and I thoroughly enjoyed the spectacular weather and the traditions of Easter. It really does have a unique atmosphere. And one of the best months of the year to be in Hvar Town is just around the corner - May. 

Back when I started writing about the island with the Total Hvar blog, May 10 was regarded as the unofficial start of the season in Hvar Town, for this is the Feast of St Prosper, the patron saint of the town, an occasion of processions, events and some fabulous food put on by the town's restaurants. It will be the start of a great week to be in the town, for five days later, May 15, is an important anniversary - 155 years since the birth of organised tourism in Europe with the founding of the Hvar Health Society back on May 15, 1868. The society catered to the needs of the convalescing Austro-Hungarian aristocracy on an island which had the nickname, the Austrian Madeira. The location of the first hotel is where luxury Palace Elisabeth Hotel stands today. 

If St Prosper used to unofficially hail the story of the tourism season back then, today there is a more practical indicator - the opening of Hotel Amfora, the largest hotel on the island and previously included in Conde Nast's top 30 resorts in Europe, and a great family getaway with its cascading pools and spectacular views. Part of the Suncani Hvar Hotels group, the opening of the hotel is closely related to bookings, and Hotel Amfora opened its doors this weekend for what promises to be a fantastic season.  

April 13, 2023 - Hotel food seldom lives up to the quality of surrounding restaurants, but there is a rather delightful exception in Hvar Town - Val Marina in Hotel Adriana.

One of the many quirks I had running my first portal, Total Hvar, over 10 years ago, was to report on the weekly listings of the island's restaurants on TripAdvisor. And for at least two years, the undisputed number one, both in terms of ranking and number of reviews, was Dalmatino. 

Time passes, and I found myself staying at Hotel Adriana last week as a guest of the hotel. I was curious to see what the dining options were these days, and I was rather surprised that there was a new king in town, Hotel Adriana's very own Val Marina. 

The Val Marina terrace has always been my favourite spot in Hvar Town, but never for lunch or dinner. The food was never that special, at least in my experience. 

For it has always had - at least in my opinion - the best breakfast experience on the island.

An unbeatable combination of a quality, healthy and diverse breakfast offering, attentive service, and THAT location. 

What a great place to watch the town waking up, the first boats going out, and the people watching in this glitzy destination. For a complete detox from life, there are few greater pleasures than a leisurely breakfast on the Adriana terrace. One of those hidden gems that never make the guidebook, and few know that it is open to non-residents. 

I was a little surprised to be approached by a lady from the Netherlands on my second morning. She had seen the photo on my Facebook with the info that it was open to non-residents. She had been walking past for years and decided to treat her friend. They looked very relaxed as I left.

So far, all was familiar territory, but did the new Val Marina really deserve top spot? I decided to try the 3-course dinner option that even, having skipped lunch and walked over my breakfast along the coast to Podstine. 

A welcome glass of Prosecco came with the menu and wine list, as well as this nice little appetiser.

Ah, yes, olive oil - we must be back in Dalmacija.

I went with the waiter's recommendation for a seafood starter, one which had quite unusual texture and taste combinations.

Capaccio de sepia. Black cuttlefish, green apple, grapefruit, fresh marinated zucchini, yuzu, caper berry grilled focaccia bread.Capaccio de sepia. Black sepia, green apple, grapefruit, fresh marinated zucchini, yuzu, caper berry, and grilled focaccia bread.

And the tanginess of the grapefruit was a splendid foil for the cuttlefish. 

A classic for the main.

Tuna steak with asapagus.

Lightly cooked, superbly tender. 

Ably supported by the delicious asparagus side and washed down with a very drinkable Pinot Grigio. 

I am not usually a dessert person, but the VERY attentive waiter made the case for a splendid finale to the meal. 

Chocolate marquise cake - snickers ice cream and strawberry. It tasted three times as good as it looked. 

I haven't tried other Hvar restaurants this year, but they will have to be pretty good to knock Val Marina off its top perch. An excellent restaurant, which comes attached with rooms in a four-star hotel, which comes with the inclusion of that incredible breakfast. Eat. Sleep. Repeat. 

April on Hvar is divine.

(Paul Bradbury was a guest of Suncani Hvar Hotels in April 2023) 

April 11, 2023 - Continuing our video journey through the magical land of Croatia, 10 things that amaze about Hvar's oldest town of Stari Grad.

It was the first capital of Croatia's Premier Island.

It has its very own UNESCO World Heritage Site.

And SO much more...

I have been watching Stari Grad and its development since 2002 after I bought a house on Hvar. The slow transition to high-quality tourism has taken time, and the investments have been significant, but the results are there.

If you are looking for a destination reachable from Split which is actively shunning party tourism in favour of families, foodies, activities and sailors, Stari Grad on Hvar should be on your radar.

Find out why in this video on what I think make Stari Grad so special.

This video was made in paid partnership with the Stari Grad Tourist Board - find out more about this destination on the official website - https://www.visit-stari-grad.com/hr/

Video credits (and watch the full videos here)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a25mBttOI7c

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9mJvoaZQY8

Pointers travel

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOACYaVwG-I

Muzej Grada Staroga Grada

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MX4n4hKMG3I

Hvar TV

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You can subscribe to the Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert YouTube channel here.

What is it like to live in Croatia? An expat for 20 years, you can follow my series, 20 Ways Croatia Changed Me in 20 Years, starting at the beginning - Business and Dalmatia.

Follow Paul Bradbury on LinkedIn.

Croatia, a Survival Kit for Foreigners is now available on Amazon in paperback and on Kindle.

Hvar, April 2, 2023 - Press Release - After last year's opening of the Beach Bay Hvar Hotel, as the first sustainable hotel in Hvar, and joining the UNESCO sustainable tourism program, with an investment in a new solar power plant project, Sunčani Hvar confirms its leadership position in the application of energy efficiency and green transition programs, setting new standards both in the hotel industry and in the economy in general.

Namely, Sunčani Hvar hotels are the first hotel company in Croatia that will install solar power plants in all its hotels and buildings in order to produce its own electricity. The total planned installed capacity of the power plants will reach 1 MW of energy, which will make Sunčani Hvar the largest private producer of solar energy on all Croatian islands and in Dalmatia. The estimated amount of electricity that will be produced in the installed solar power plants is sufficient for 40% of the entire annual needs of Sunčani Hvar, which will significantly reduce the impact of increased costs of energy sources, and thus increase the competitiveness and sustainability of business. By using renewable energy sources, it also contributes to the Green Plan of the European Union, which aims to create a green and sustainable Europe in the coming decades and at the same time contribute to the preservation of the environment.

"Sustainability is no longer just a trend, but an unavoidable business principle. In Sunčani Hvar, we continuously work on projects of renewable energy sources and energy efficiency. We also strive to find ecological solutions that increase the competitiveness and sustainable growth of the company. By introducing solar energy, we contribute to the European Green Plan and to the reduction of carbon dioxide emissions, all in accordance with the global ESG strategy of the CPI PG group to which we belong," said the President of the Management Board, Gordana Tomičić.

The island of Hvar is the sunniest Croatian island and one of the sunniest islands in the Mediterranean. Due to the longest insolation of over 2,700 hours per year, it enables the accumulation of a large amount of light and heat energy on the roof surfaces of buildings where solar panels are located. The advantage of so many hours of sunshine is a significantly faster return on invested funds and greater profitability.

Investing in innovations confirms the leadership position of Sunčani Hvar in the implementation of solutions that directly encourage a green and sustainable transition and at the same time enable the creation of new jobs and the global competitiveness of the EU.

March 15, 2023 - Life in Dalmatia is amazing. The pace of life, the polako, the pomalo, the laganini.

Over the years, I became fixated with the wise elders of Jelsa, as they gathered each evening on the white bench under the Mayor's office to discuss the weighty matters of the day.

I can't explain it but I became a little bit obsessed, and all I wanted was an invitation to sit with them on the bench, an honour that is never bestowed upon foreigners, I was assured.

And then one day, after 13 years...

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You can subscribe to the Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert YouTube channel here.

What is it like to live in Croatia? An expat for 20 years, you can follow my series, 20 Ways Croatia Changed Me in 20 Years, starting at the beginning - Business and Dalmatia.

Follow Paul Bradbury on LinkedIn.

Croatia, a Survival Kit for Foreigners is now available on Amazon in paperback and on Kindle.