If you've ever heard of Blaca on the island of Brač, chances are the word associated with it was "desert," and it has nothing to do with sand, dunes, or camels.

I was born and raised in Croatia, and to be frank with you, it took me a while to realise what the name "Pustinja Blaca" meant. I mean, in the Croatian language, the only meaning of the word "pustinja" I was aware of was the already mentioned desert. However, there is another meaning for it, one that might be translated into English as a hermitage monastery, a place that doesn't have a lot of people, and which is practically deserted. The people who have lived there have decided to live their lives away from civilisation, dedicated to prayer and their spiritual lives. 

Marko Tarandek writes for Punkufer about the monastery, explaining its rich past. It was founded in the 16th century, on a very distant piece of land between Bol and Milna. Its founders were the Glagolitic priests, a group of Christian priests that operated between the ninth and the nineteenth centuries and used the Glagolitic script and Old Church Slavonic language.

A group of those priests, who weren't a united organisation, ran from the Turkish occupation of Poljica to Brač and began their monastery there. Their first refuge was a cave, and after some time of living in the cave and cultivating the land around it, they were permitted to build a monastery and a church. And so they built it right on the rock where their original cave was, adding certain necessary objects, and later expanding to almost luxurious accommodation (luxurious for the 16th century, of course). The first record of a church being built there is from 1588. 

The priests proved to be excellent agriculturalists, able to take advantage of every square metre of the soil. That contributed to the creation of an agricultural collective, based on the fair distribution of the gains and joint ownership. More and more people came to participate, which led to the development of this part of the island (please consult the map to see how far away from any of the modern places on Brač it is). They made their wine (of course) and honey, but they also printed books and hosted numerous astronomers, as they had a famous observatory. They needed to be able to trade their goods, so the priests also owned three sailboats (again, look at the map: the monastery is not really THAT close to the coast!), which sailed all over the Mediterranean.

Although Blaca was formally a monastery, it didn't belong to any specific church order. They were permitted by the Hvar-Brač bishop to decide on their own who they wanted to let into the monastery. The brothers chose their leader, who took care of the monastery's business - and at some point, their business was doing so well that the brothers who were supposed to be hermits, hard at work and thinking, had servants and people working on their land! The last family to manage the monastery were the Miličević priests, known for their work in astronomy (they even have two asteroids named after them, Miličević and Brač). In 1963, the last member of the family, don Nikola Miličević, passed away, and the monastery was closed for business as a monastery and became a museum. 

You can visit the Blaca museum, but prepare yourself because it won't be that easy. There are two ways to get to it: one way is by car from the north (you can park around a kilometre away from the monastery, and you have to walk the path the rest of the way), or you can take your boat to the so-called Popova vala (Priest's bay), and then walk uphill to the monastery (it will take you 45 minutes or so to make it there).

The museum is open every day of the week, except on Mondays, and there's no bar or restaurant at the museum, so make sure you have enough water to walk there and back to your ride, especially if you're going during the summer. In the museum, located inside the former monastery building and which has blended perfectly with the surroundings, you can see the old furniture, kitchen, and living quarters. The most exciting parts of the collection are the various tools used for astronomical measurements, a big collection of ancient weaponry and clocks, as well as a library with many unique books. 

Some changes might be coming to the area, as we have previously reported, so if you want to experience the authentic feel of Pustinja Blaca, don't miss the opportunity to visit as soon as possible!

Given its size, proximity and regular ferry schedule to Supetar, Brac is arguably the most accessible island for a day trip from Split, and the pleasant one-hour ferry transfer should be seen as part of the experience. It is an island of culture, tradition, beaches, beauty and adventure, with plenty to entice the visitor from the mainland. Here are five highlights, all of which can be enoyed on a day trip from Split:

1. Zlatni Rat beach, Bol

Arguably the most famous beach in all Croatia, Zlatni Rat (or Golden Horn) is one of the top attractions in Dalmatia. Situated on the edge of the tourist town of Bol on the southern shores of Brac, the shifting tides move the beach left and right, and it is popular family resort, as well as the base for activity sports such as wind surfing. There is a daily catamaran from Split to Jelsa via Bol at 16:00 (16:30 on a Friday), or the beach can be reached by ferry to Supetar and onward bus connection. Please contact us for private transfers. 

2. Blaca Monastery

One of the most impressive complexes in Dalmatia and testament to the determination and dedication of the monks of the  16th century, Blaca monastery is well worth the hike, both for the incredible views and the sense of achievement of human endeavour. Founded in 1551 following more Ottoman attacks, Blaca was also an agricultural community, producing wine, honey and other local specialities.

In addition to the orginal construction, there is also a world-famous observatory, museum and library. Contact us to arrange tours to Blaca at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.  

3. Dragon's Cave

Another fascinating insight into centuries-old monastic life is located close to the village of Murvica, about 7km from Bol. Zmajeva spilja (the Dragon's Cave) takes its name from the relief of a dragon in it, and its main purpose was a a temple and home to the Glagolitic priests from the 16th century on.

The cave is some 20m long and divided into four halls, including the Chapel of our Lady in the first hall.  There are several carvings into the mountainside, including Madonn, the moon and dragons, which scientists have attempted to explain. A common theory is that they are linked to parts of Slavic mythology and Christian iconography.

A visit to Dragon's Cave is possible only with the guide - please contact us on This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. to arrange.

4. Dol with Vitalac

A rare treat! Found only on Brac and one more village on Crete, vitalac takes lamb' s offal (liver, heart, lungs) skewered and wrapped. After turning on live coals, the sticks are wrapped in lamb's intestines and then turned for another hour. Vitalac is then cut and eaten while the diners wait for the whole lamb to be baked. Wine and drinks included.

The journey begins from Split harbor and continues across the hills of Brac Island to tiny Skrip village where guests get introduced to history of the island and its traditions. Next stop is picturesque and wonderfully preserved Dol village where our cooking class takes place. The cooking class of vitalac also combines the lamb cooking traditions of Brac island.

The program is offered from Split area in May, June and September, from 100 euro per person (groups size between 1 and 8).

 5. Brac stone and the Pucisca stone masonry school

Brac stone is famous throughout the world, with its most famous location being part of the White House in Washington. It is also to be found in other public buildings around the world, such as Liverpool Cathedral in the UK.

Stone masonry is a highly skilled art, and one much prized in Dalmatia, where constuction from stone is an essential part of the culture. The Pucisca stone masonry school is an important centre of learning and craftsmanship of this very important art form. 

For more information on transfers and organised tours to these destinations, contact us on This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.