December 11, 2020 - First we discovered that there are truffles near Zagreb, then we tasted truffle strukli (delicious), and now... meet the Zagreb truffle praline. 

One of the things I love most about this 'job' is that every day is different, and things rarely turn out the way I envisage, quite often opening the doors to new discoveries and hidden gems. A recent trip as guests of Sveta Nedelja is a case in point - previously I had thought of it as just an industrial town near Zagreb, which was the home of Rimac - how wrong I was.  

I had a similar experience a couple of weeks later when Zagreb County Tourist Board director Ivana Alilovic invited me to go on a spot of truffle hunting near Veika Gorica in a region called Turopolje, which I confess I had never heard of. 

Ivana was very persuasive, deeply committed to unlocking new avenues of tourism in her county, with a focus on local produce and local traditions. 

I was more than a little dubious, but set off on a rainy overcast Saturday morning with my daughter in search of truffles. And what a day of discovery it was! Not only a bone fide truffle hunting experience (with Turoploje triufles which for years have been making their way to Istria for sale), but also a quite outstanding truffle-themed lunch at a Michelin-recommended Dalmatian restaurant in Velika Gorica, would you believe. You can read all about it in Move Over Istria: the Rise of Zagreb Truffle Hunt Tourism. 

Having the truffle hunting was one thing, explained Ivana, but there needed to be a range of supporting activities and products to give the experience more authenticity and depth. If local producers could integrate truffles into some of their products, and local restaurants offer dishes with the Turopolje truffle, this would help build a brand and make it more attractive for tourism. 

Ivana enlisted the help of local producers with her truffle plan. First up was another Ivana - Belosevic - who runs the Cipov bakery in the village of Busevac near Velika Gorica. She had bought into the other Ivana's vision and come up with a fabulous strukli with truffles, which was DELICIOUS. You can learn more in Strukli with Truffles, the Latest Authentic Gourmet Hit in Zagreb County. She plans to expand her range shortly with truffle-infused bread. 

But there would be more to come, promised Ivana 1. And so it has proved, as a little addition from her in my Facebook feed a couple of hours ago introduced the latest gourmet innovation - the Zagreb truffle praline.

They are fresh off the press and - as one would expect from the recent Zagreb County campaign to buy local products from local producers - they are produced within the county, at the Nautilus chocolate factory in Zapresic. Ivana went to visit them with some freshly unearthed truffles and suggested they might like to come up with a new product powered by local ingredients. Nautilus liked the idea, and the rest is history.

I have yet to taste them, but initial feedback is pretty positive. Why not find out for yourself by ordering your own in time for Christmas directly from the Nautilus factory?

If you would like to keep track of the Zagreb truffle story, you can do so on the dedicated TCN section. I have a feeling that we will be reporting on new gourmet innovations very soon. 

December 5, 2020 - The secret of one of Zagreb's lesser-known gourmet secrets is slowly getting out, and now there is a new way to try it - strukli with truffles. 

One of the most incredible things about Croatia, a land of 4 million people, is the richness and diversity on every level. Every village seemingly has its own dialect words, at least one unique tradition, and often some sort of culinary twist or ingredient which sets it apart form the rest. It is one of the reasons why writing about Croatia is such a fascinating job, for no two days are the same, and there is usually a surprise or three around every corner. 

Along with safety and lifestyle, it is one of the jewels of Croatian tourism around which I believe we should build our tourism - the unique authentic experience. 

A few weeks ago, for example, I was invited to go truffle hunting near Zagreb Airport in the region of Turopolje. Truffle hunting in Croatia but not in Istria? Just outside Zagreb? I had never heard of such a thing and I was more than a little skeptical. But - and not for the first or last time - I was wrong, and not only can I confirm that the Zagreb truffle industry is alive and well, but also that some of those lovely truffles you are sampling in Istria have their origins in the forests around Zagreb. You can read all about the Zagreb truffle hunting experience in Move Over Istria: the Rise of Zagreb Truffle Hunt Tourism.

But if the truffle hunt was a surprise, so too was the lunch that followed. A Dalmatian restaurant recommended by MIchelin in the heart of Velika Gorica, offering local Turopolje specialities, including black and white Turopolje truffles, including this 135g gem below. 

You can read more about the truffle-themed lunch in the article above, but there was one more gourmet addition to a fabulous lunch at Mon Ami restaurant which I only tried later that night when I got home. 

Over lunch I was introduced to a very nice young lady called Ivana Belosevic, who ran a bakery called Cipov in the nearby village of Busevec. The name “Cipov” is actually a word used in Turopolje to describe white bread. Cipov was a type of bread only eaten during holidays such as Christmas or Easter. A traditional name for a business which is helping to produce some fabulous authentic Croatian dishes, such as strukli. 

But authentic Croatian dishes with a twist. 

Such as strukli with truffles. 

The conversation at lunch was as good as the excellent food, and I enjoyed listening to Ivana talk with passion about her bakery business, where she has been making homemade strukli now for some 15 years. Another Ivana - Alilovic, Director of the Zagreb County Tourist Board - approached her and asked her what she thought about making strukli with truffles. Zagreb has a great truffle story which is being left untold, and delicious authentic local dishes flavoured with local truffles would be perhaps the best way to promote the story. 

And so a new gourmet treasure was born - strukli with truffles. 

Strukli is akin to a savoury strudel, with cottage cheese the key ingredient, and one of Croatia's most famous - and popular - dishes. It is best-known in the region of Zagorje, but appears in various formats in other parts of the country. You can see how it is made in the English-language video above. I am not aware of anyone else making strukli with truffles. Ivana's new Facebook page also shows strukli with apricot, and I am sure that a visit to the Cipov family bakery in Bresovec will yield plenty of other culinary delights. 

As we previously reported, one of the successful tourism stories in this crazy year was the launch of the Around Zagreb platform, which is a joint effort from the city and county tourist boards of Zagreb. This has helped to considerably widen the scope of tourism possibilities in the capital, in the form of day trip activities just outside the city. In an era of social distancing and outdoor activities, Zagreb County is rich in authenticexperiences - both active and culinary - away from the crowds. and truffle hunting and the sampling of its cuisine fit into this nicely. The pumpkin offer of Ivanic Grad (with its own pumpkin festival), Zumberak trout, and the authentic Samobor quartet of salami, kotlet, mustard and kremsnit, not to mention the local Plesivica wine region, have enough authenticity and unique flavours to entice curious foodies. 

The new strukli with truffles is just one in a number of excellent local authentic product which is made with passion and care by small local family businesses. Individually, they are tiny businesses struggling to survive, especially in this most challenging of years. Collectively, they offer a fascinating web of authentic excellence, which shows the true diversity of Croatia's traditions and heritage. both culinary and otherwise. 

In another nice initiative that we reported on recently, the regional tourist board has launched a seasonal campaign to both highlight and promote these businesses. 

The local producers are collected in interestingly designed categories that will change in weekly cycles from December 3 to December 24: 1. Relax and reward your body, 2. Decorate your home with Christmas magic, 3. Prepare your holiday table, and 4. Sweet Secrets of Zagreb County.

"In Zagreb County, there are many craftsmen, hardworking people who turn natural resources from their homeland into unique local products," said Ivana Alilović, the director of the Zagreb County Tourist Board. "At the same time, they combine the traditional and the modern. With their creativity, they refresh our heritage and enrich the entire offer of the region. Natural cosmetics and healthy food, medicinal preparations, imaginative decorations and everyday items for the home, irresistible treats etc. Each of these products bears the signature of its origin and its author."

"Production is usually small and limited, but with a high level of quality and personal commitment. Domestic goods that are truly domestic, but also different. We want to raise awareness about the importance of buying from local producers and help all of them in the branding and promotion of products that we can be proud of."

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October 25, 2020 - It has long been the exclusive preserve of Istria, but the Zagreb truffle hunting season is in full swing, with ambitious tourism plans for its development. 

A couple of years ago, I was enjoying lunch on the Lesic Dimitri terrace on Korcula with a main dish which included truffles.

"Did you know that there are truffles to be found over there on Peljesac?" asked my luncheon companion, motioning across the Adriatic towards the Peljesac Peninsula, a view a young Marco Polo would have enjoyed as a child. 

Truffles on Peljesac? Really? I had never heard of truffles in Croatia outside of Istria, a region whose outstanding gourmet offer is defined by the exclusive funghi which is highly sought after in the finest restaurants in the world. Apart from Italy and Istria, I was not aware that truffles could be found anywhere else, certainly not on Peljesac. 

On the contrary, said my friend confidently. And not only that, but he had heard that they are shipped to Istria and sold there. 

The luncheon conversation sat locked away in my head until very recently, when I was writing an article about the excellent new tourism promotion synergy between Zagreb City and Zagreb Country Tourist Boards with their new initiative to combine their offer in one fabulous - and extremely informative website called Around Zagreb.  Among the many activities on offer in and around the Croatian capital was truffle hunting. 

(Photo credit Taliah Bradbury)

Zagreb truffles? Really? This sounded even less likely than Peljesac. I decided to investigate, and I discovered that not only was Zagreb truffle hunting a 'thing', with its own organised tours, but that there were official efforts underway to develop the Zagreb truffle hunting experience into an attractive and more widely available activity just a short drive from the centre. And the more I began to look into the Zagreb truffle scene, the more interested I became, culminating in a family day out in and around Velika Gorica, close to Zagreb Airport, yesterday. 

Zagreb County Tourist Board director Ivana Alilovic took over the position recently and has been energetically looking at ways to add value and promotion to the considerable content in the region around the city. The Around Zagreb website is one concrete early result, but she was reportedly also very passionate about promoting the Zagreb truffle story, and she invited us along to take part in a hunt that was already organised. 

It was quite a day. 

A little online research and some conversations on the day filled me in with some useful information. Truffle hunting does indeed exist, and in various locations in oak forests around the capital - near Samobor, on Medvednica, and in Turopolje, near Velika Gorica, from where our day would begin and end. Some organised local truffle hunts have recently started, but the most results Google was showing for 'Zagreb truffle hunt' were tours to Istria starting from Zagreb. 

(Photo credit Taliah Bradbury)

Alilovic wants to change that by building up an eco-system of truffle tourism, which goes beyond the hunting experience itself. And while she has some way to go before achieving her goal, the building blocks are firmly in place, as we experienced on our refreshing visit to the forest, looking spectacular in its autumnal colours. 

After meeting at an arranged spot in Velika Gorica, we followed Ivana into the forest to a delightful wooden house managed by Croatian Forests from where the event would begin. 

In addition to the others taking part on their first hunt, we were also introduced to the dynamic duo, who ensured that our truffle-hunting day would be a success - Stjepan and Zagi, a truly fabulous team for five years now, of which much more below.  

There followed an excellent presentation on truffles in the region and beyond, with the many questions from the audience being answered. Far from being a closely guarded secret, Zagreb truffles have been for sale on Dolac market for more than a decade now, and the 4 truffle hunters before us had many years experience trawling through the forests of the region in search of this black and white gold. It was interesting to note that just like Peljesac, they too supply the Istrian market, and it is only a relatively recent development that Zagreb restaurants have started to seriously order local truffles locally. 

After all, a Zagreb truffle does not have the same aura of an Istrian truffle. A food blogger who was also on the hunt told us the amusing story of a famous player from the Croatian national team having dinner at a well-known Zagreb restaurant. Asking if the waiter could bring him a truffle to show his friends, the waiter returned with a Zagreb truffle, explaining that it had been locally procured. Smelling the truffle, the famous footballer expressed his dissatisfaction and requested a truffle that had come from Istria instead. 

The waiter disappeared and returned with the truffle which had come from Istria. What a difference, the player exclaimed!

It was actually the same truffle. Sourced in Zagreb, sold to Istria, then sold to the Zagreb restaurant. Perception is everything... 

Part of the plan to develop Zagreb's truffle tourism opportunity is to build a network of supporting partners, all of whom have a role to play in providing richer content for the tourism experience. 

Two local Turopolje restaurants, whose menus offer local truffle delicacies, were on hand to feed the hunting team with a selection of truffle dishes, starting with Babriga from Velika Gorica, whose team was on hand to serve breakfast after our welcoming presentation, the highlight of which was scrambled eggs with black truffles.  

It was time to hunt! Off we headed into the forest, before splitting up into four teams. I had already chatted to Stjepan a little and decided to stick with him. I was surprised to see him on his quad bike, as I had not expected truffle hunting to be quite like that. He explained that he was an invalid and confined to a wheelchair, and that truffle hunting was an escape from that reality. With his relationship with Zagi, it was clear that I had found a professional team who adored each other. 

There are many more technical descriptions of truffle hunting online, and I don't pretend to be an expert at all. I got the most joy watching the successful partnership of Stjepan and Zagi. Truffle hunting is quite literally like looking for a needle in a haystack. Unless you have a properly trained dog (Zagi started getting truffles in his food at a very early age five years ago), there is no chance you will ever find a truffle. With a well-trained dog, however... 

Was it beginner's luck? Literally within 20 seconds of entering the search area, Stjepan released Zagi, who ran about 20 metres and started digging. At this point, he was called off so that he did not destroy the truffle. Zagi was more than happy to be called off, as he headed to his master to be rewarded with a treat for his work.  

It was a great start, with an impressively-sized black truffle to give us encouragement.  

What a great partnership! The search for a needle in a haystack, with Zagi's trained nose the only hope. His effortless efforts reveal the hidden locations to bring joy to his owner, who rewards his efforts with treats which bring canine joy. Perfect! 

There were several kids on the hunt who were enjoying themselves immensely, but nobody could keep up with Zagi, who went off in all directions in search of treasures to please his master. It would have taken a videographer more skilled than me to capture the highlights, but here he is from distance, having found truffle number four.  

Some TCN photographers at the scene were taking things a little more seriously than I normally do...  

(Photo credit Taliah Bradbury)

In addition to the truffles, the wealth of mushrooms on show was striking. Perhaps something to think about combining into the tourism offer? A mushroom and truffle hunt, with the best of the edible mushrooms and truffles finding their way to your dinner plate after the hunt.  

To my shame, I had never been to Velika Gorica before (unless you count Zagreb Airport), and I certainly was not expecting to find what awaited us at lunch. A Michelin-recommended restaurant which specialises in seafood due to the Sibenik County origins of the family which owns it. Opened in 1994, Mon Ami has been on the Michelin list for the last three years, and Bruno Ceronja is continuing what his father started to produce a memorable gourmet experience.  

One of the luncheon ingredients was presented to us before we ordered - a 135-gramme Turopolje white truffle.  

In my opinion, Croatia should be marketing itself on the basis of safety, authentic experiences, and lifestyle. And for an authentic gourmet experience, combining local flavours with his Sibenik roots, Bruno pulled out all the stops. 

Home-made bread with his domestic olive oil  - we could try both the 2020 harvest, above (5 days old) or the 2019 harvest. There was a spiciness to both which I have not come across too often in Dalmatian olive oils - delicious.  

Rather than choose from the menu, we followed the excellent waiter's suggestion to try his recommendations, which resulted in an exquisite selection of starters of Dalmatian seafood classics. Black risotto, fish pate, smoked mussels, and the clear winner...

... tuna carpaccio with white truffle shavings on top.   

From seafood to fuzi pasta with truffles, and beefsteak for the main course, medium rare in a Turopolje truffle sauce... 

... with a little white truffle magic on top. 

There was no room for dessert, but room would have to be found, with a mix of Dalmatian and continental treats to round off what had been a truly excellent day. Traditional Skradin cake from Bruno's Sibenik roots, a supremely light rozada, and vanilla ice cream with pumpkin oil. The latter might sound an unlikely combination, but I have become mildly addicted since discovering it once I moved from Hvar to Varazdin. 

We were not quite finished with the food yet. One of the challenges (and opportunities) that Tourist Board director Ivana Allilovic has to build on this excellent start is to get enough related products and content to add to the main experience. But things are moving already in that direction, as we were introduced to a lovely lady over lunch who runs the Cipov bakery in Buševec village near Velika Gorica, and who gave us one of her truffle-inspired delicacies to warm up and try when we got home - strukli with truffles. It was outstanding. 

A highly educational day, and one with much food... and much food for thought. A simple concept, using the natural treasures of the local region to build up a tourism story based on a fantastic authentic experience in spectacular nature. I wish Ivana luck with her plans, and this is a story we will be following closely. 

And for those of you dining in Istria, I would be interested to know if the restaurants up there have heard of Turopolje Zagreb truffles. 

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This article was sponsored by the Zagreb County Tourist Board.