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Where To Stay In Split (8): Travel To the Socialist Era
There is a lot of logic to begin this series with the oldest part of Split, Diocletian's Palace, and to end it in the eastern part of the city, mostly developed during the 20th century. When watched from the air, it looks like most of the modern parts in cities around the world, but even though you will not find usual Mediterranean charm as in some older neighbourhoods, don't rule it completely out as your accommodation choice.
When we talk of new Split, we think of an area east of Bačvice and Firule, eastbound along the sea, and north of it, all the way to the city entrance from Solin or Dubrovnik directions. Or, east from Gripe, a neighbourhood we described in previous part. It's a huge area, highly populated, and mostly built in the socialism-era of Yugoslavia.
However, some of those buildings and streets are nice examples of modern residential architecture, especially parts locally called Split 3. This development, built in the 1970s, was internationally recognized as a good, human-oriented residential area. Unfortunately, it was never completely finished, which made it look a little bit worn out in some points. The latest addition is the new University of Split campus, still not finished completely.
In the last few years, with the explosive growth of tourist arrivals, this area has become a second choice for visitors. There are lots of apartments available in high-rises everywhere, AirBnB random search for mid-June gave really nice results. A nice advantage is that they are reasonably cheaper than those in the old town, and Split is not really that big to make it impossible to go sightseeing. By car, even with heavy traffic, it's possible to reach city center in 10 to 15 minutes. For those who like to walk, there is a nice solution - about an hour long walk by the sea.
Beside apartments, usually pretty comfortable and in good shape, there is one little bit more upscale option, Radison Blu Resort, 4-star hotel settled right above the Trstenik beach. Its features are as expected from the chain hotel, and with some small boutique hotels in the city center, this is one of the most luxurious hotels in Split today.
The hotel has its own swimming pool, but an easily accessible beach is not to be missed, as well as the excellent restaurants within the hotel. Of course, Radisson Blu is a very good solution for conferences and similar events.
The whole of new Split is very well connected if you are coming with the car, and most buildings have their own parking lots, or even garages. If you decide not to drive to the city for sightseeing, you can always use the Split public transportation system. Since most of the Split inhabitants live there, most of the bus lines pass there. Ticket bought in the bus is 11 kunas for adults, 5 kunas for children age 6 to 10, and free for those younger. You can also buy 10-ticket packs in news-stands, each ticket is for two rides, and costs 17 kunas.
There are no sightseeing attractions in new Split, except if you are a socialism-style junky. However, the coast is mostly arranged as the beach, especially parts around Trstenik, near Radisson Blu, and Žnjan (pron. Zhnyan) plateau. In the summer some parts can be a little bit crowded, but not as some even more popular beaches like Bačvice.
These places are just too big not to be able to accept lots of people. If the weather is not suitable for the beach and swimming, a walk by the sea is always refreshing. And in winter times Žnjan becomes a very popular windsurfing and kite surfing destination.
New Split is also nicely equipped with shopping sites. The closest to the old town is Joker Center. In the very heart of Split 3 lies the small but well Prima 3 which attracted lots of smaller stores to be opened in nearby streets. The biggest shopping center in Split, and in all Dalmatia is City Center One, easily accessible by car or by bus number 18.
Of course, there are some downsides of staying in new Split. For Split circumstances it's fairly far from the main attractions. Also, it's far from being charming and cozy as some small stone paved alleys and streets in the old town and its vicinity. If you just want to have a place to tuck in as a base for further explorations, or you are on a tight budget, this could be your choice.
The story about Split accommodation might not be ending here, as there are lots of places around Split with available apartments or hotel rooms. However, this is what Split neighbourhoods have for full enjoyment in everything this city can offer.
PREVIOUSLY IN WHERE TO STAY IN SPLIT
Choose Neighbourhood By Your Needs
Where To Stay In Split (6): Fun, Beach, Food
Probably right next to its history, and recently entrtainment, Split is famous for its beaches. There are not many cities of this size, maybe in the whole Mediterranean, with so many places where it's safe, fun and clean to enjoy the sea and beach. All around Marjan hill, and east of the city harbour, there is about 17 kilometres of sea line, and pretty much all of it suitable for swimming.
Still, there is one beach that comes to mind first when mentioning swimming in Split, Bačvice (pron. something like Bahtchweetse). In the last few years, tourists have re-discovered this place, and even though sometimes it can be too crowded, it's still popular. Bačvice is deeply anchored in Split mythology, and beside Diocletian's Palace this beach is one of the Split scenes that can be most frequently seen on TV or elsewhere. Once when you come there, there is no chance you will miss someone playing picigin (pron. pizzighin), beach fun played by five players with a small ball, usually made out of peeled tennis ball.
Of course, Bačvice is not only a beach. It's really a good place to stay. It is spread not only on area around namesake beach, but also through whole area from the city harbour to the main hospital, locally know as Firule, and in the north up to street called Kralja Zvonimira. There are lots of available apartments and rooms around, sometime in villas. This is one of the most urban parts of the old Split, meaning you can find anything, ranging from small and charming stone houses in the oldest part called Toć (pron. Totch), to apartments in larger, usually 1930s buildings, some of them are the most beautiful in Split.
Sadly, but this area is another proof that Split really lacks hotels. Even in this, strongly tourist neighbourhood there are only two, both 4-stars, tradition leaning Park and very modern Luxe. There are several hostels around the area, the rest are apartments and rooms.
One of the reasons why it is so popular to stay on Bačvice or Firule is its vicinity to the old town, as well as all means of transportation. Ferries to islands, bus and railway stations are in the walking range, the same goes for the old town and all attractions. On the other hand, this neighbourhood is not as rich with landmarks as other parts of Split. Beside beaches - Bačvice is not the only one, swimming is possible everywhere - the only attractions are Memorial lighthouse overlooking the city port, and browsing around nice, quiet streets.
There are several nice restaurants in the area, like traditional style Oštarija Viđakovi, few Italian or pizza places around the beach, popular and affordable Bistro Toć and several good upper-scale hits like Dvor, Kadena, Nevera, etc. Also, restaurant Bruna within hotel Park is usually well-reviewed.
One of the features of Bačvice locals like the most is that it's a great place to hang around year-round, due to Split's great climate. Every weekend you can see thousands of people enjoying being outdoors, and sipping coffee anywhere from Bačvice beach eastbound is a mandatory ritual if you want to feel what is it like to be from Split. The most popular places are Žbirac overlooking the beach, Dvor, Ovčice, Kalafatić, and several others along the seaside promenade stretching for few kilometres. Also, there are some nice places away from the sea, like students' meeting point Aktuell
Bačvice, and surrounding area is one of the centers of Split nightlife. On the beach itself there are several clubs, and bars are open late, but probably the most popular venue is O'Hara music club, with daily DJ programs, and frequent live performances. During the summer concerts take place on a plateau in front of the club. There are also some other popular events, like the excellent Festival of Mediterranean Film
Downsides of staying in Bačvice are rare, its vicinity and good infrastructure is a sufficient reason to stay there. However, although most of this neighbourhood is really quiet, there are zones that sometime can be too noisy for families with children. So, if coming this way, avoid areas closer to the beach and clubs, youngsters coming home are loud creatures. Also, since it's a neighbourhood of mostly small houses, parking can be somewhat difficult, there are only two paid parking lots, everything else is left to your imagination for finding a place and driving skills.
To be continued
PREVIOUSLY IN WHERE TO STAY IN SPLIT
Choose Neighbourhood By Your Needs
Hostels and Budget Accommodation in Split
A few years ago there were no hostel in town but now there is a wealth of hostel accommodation in the city popping up every season. Please see below list of preferred hostels and budget accomodation in Split and click read more for further information.
Split Hostel Group
(Narodni Trg 8; +385 (0)21 342 787 / Kruziceva 5, +385 (0)21 355 156; www.splithostel.com)
Run by two Aussie Croat women, this pair brought the first hostel to Split in 2006. Creatively named Booze & Snooze, this hostel is just that; a meeting point for travellers who are in for some fun between discoveries. The group’s brand-new outpost hostel bares another creative name with a similar definition; Fiesta Siesta. Also located in the old town in a heritage listed Dalmatian house, it sits above Charlie’s Bar, a backpacker’s hangout also founded by the group…read more.
Goli+Bosi Design Hostel
(Morpurgova poljana 2; +385 (0)21 510 999;www.gollybossy.com)
Goli+Bosi certainly does not exude the traditional hostel vibe; it has a quirky attitude and an ultra hip décor. Goli+Bosi, meaning naked and barefoot in Croatian doesn’t target your usual budget traveller as dorm prices match that of private accommodation but if you are into collective holidays, this is your place.
Tchaikovsky Hostel
(Ulica Petra Iliča Čajkovskog 4; +385 (0)21 317 124;www.tchaikovskyhostel.com)
Owned and operated by a German born Croat, there is certainly German order in this place, and positively so. Named after the street this hostel is located on in the Špinut neighborhood behind the National Theatre of Split, this spic and span hotel has four dorms named after Tchaikovsky’s famous compositions…read more.
Beach Hostel
(Viška 9; +385(0)98 9450 998;www.facebook.com/BeachHostelSplit)
For an old school backpacker vibe, Beach Hostel just 100m from Bačvice beach is just the joint for you. This place is run by a Norwegian lady named Ladybird who dropped her high-flying corporate career to take a chill pill and devote her time to art, writing, and hanging out with hipster youth…read more.
Silver Central
(Kralja Tomislava 1; +385 (0)21 490 805; www.silvercentralhostel.com // Hrvojeva 6; +385 (0)21 322 857; www.silvergatehostel.com)
Silver Central Hostel is located right off Marmontova, the city’s main shopping street, meters from all the action. This boutique four-dorm hostel is housed in an upstairs apartment featuring beach woods, bright yellow walls and an underwater themed dorm puts you right into the Adriatic mood. Their second hostel, Silver Gate offers yet another colorful set-up to brighten you stay…read more.
Hotel Dujam
(Velebitska 27; +385 (0) 21 538 025;www.hoteldujam.com)
For affordable yet comfortable hotel accommodation, venture 20 minutes on foot from the city center and stay at two-starred Hotel Dujam located in a residential neighborhood. The hotel has 33 little rooms with simple interiors. Hotel Dujam also houses the rather soulless but affordable “L” hostel…read more.
Split Hostel Group: Booze and Snooze, Siesta Fiesta, and Charlie’s Bar
Booze & Snooze Hostel
Run by two Aussie Croat women, this pair brought the first hostel to Split in 2006. Creatively named Booze & Snooze, this hostel is just that; a meeting point for travellers who are in for some fun between discoveries. Booze & Snooze is located in the heart of the old town, near all the popular attractions, shops, bars, and restaurants. The hostel has 25 beds in four dorms, a book swap, a common terrace, free Wi-Fi and bed linens, and they arrange fun party boat trips to Brač. The simple interiors are spiked with festive colors on the walls, ensuite bathrooms and air-conditioning. With the team at Booze & Snooze, you will surely have a blast and as party animals themselves, they’ll probably join you for drinks after their shift ends.
Booze & Snooze
Narodni Trg 8, Split
21 000 Croatia
T: +385 (0) 21 342 787
F: +385 (0) 21 342 787
E: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Fiesta Siesta
Split Hostel Group’s brand-new outpost hostel bares another creative name with a similar definition; Fiesta Siesta. Also located in the old town, Fiesta Siesta has five large dorms and one double room. It is located in a heritage listed Dalmatian house and the modern interiors pay respect to that with exposed walls, hard wood flooring, and mosaic bathrooms. Just below the hostel is Charlie’s Bar, also managed by Split Hostel Group.
Charlie’s Bar is founded by Aussies, built by backpackers, and loved by locals. This is the inner city’s drinking hole where any goes; a melting pot of cultures where cheap drinks flow by the dozen…with a happy hour lasting five hours, there is no wonder why. Party peeps swarm to this joint, often inventing their own theme nights and drinks as the night unfolds and the awesome tunes animates the crowd.
Fiesta Siesta & Charlie’s Bar
Kružićeva 5, Split
21 000 Croatia
T: +385 (0) 21 355 156
F: +385 (0) 21 355 156
E: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
