Delfin Sailing Club (JK Delfin) invites all sailing enthusiasts to participate in the 1st Full Moon Regatta, a night race from Pula to Cres island

The sailing club from Pula is launching a new regatta hoping for it to become a spectacle of international renown that will draw a bigger crowd with each passing year.

As announced on their website, the 1st Full Moon regatta will kick off in the port of Pula, with the start of the race scheduled for March 18th. The route as planned is approximately 80 nmi long and will take the crews around Susak island and onwards, to the finish line in Cres port.

In case of adverse weather conditions several options will be considered, such as shortening of the route, delaying the start until early morning, etc. That being said, Delfin Sailing Club is keeping fingers crossed for favourable weather conditions so that everyone eager to participate can embark on a moonlit adventure from Pula to Cres!

They plan for the new regatta to be a fully fledged manifestation and have thus prepared a cultural programme together with a special surprise before the start of the race. A creative challenge has also been announced: Delfin Sailing Club is inviting all lovers of sea and sailing, regardless of age and profession, to create a work of art inspired by the regatta. You can photograph, film, draw, paint, sculpt or in any other way create something, as long as the work features the JK Delfin logo and the slogan ‘Pula the city of sails’ (Croatian: Pula grad pod jedrima). All submissions will be published online, and the best works will be awarded at the sailing night manifestation in December 2022. Rules and conditions of the contest are to be announced. 

1st Full Moon Regatta Programme

Thursday March 17th
berthing in Port of Pula
city tour
cultural programme & evening entertainment

Friday March 18th
berthing in Port of Pula
registration: 4 - 5pm
skippers’ meeting, final route modifications depending on weather conditions - 5pm
start - 6pm

Saturday March 19th
arrival in Port of Cres (6pm finish at the latest)
award ceremony, dinner and after-sailing party - from 7pm

Sunday March 20th
return to home ports
training regatta Cres-Pula (to be arranged)

Registration forms and more information available here. 

Organisers: JK Delfin in collaboration with JK Reful Cres

Supporters:
Pula Port Authority, ACI Pula, the City of Pula, Cres Port Authority, the City of Cres, AGD, Adrinaut, regate.com, with others TBA.

October 8, 2020 - Croatia offers the best lifestyle in Europe, and with a digital nomad visa imminent, remote workers are sensing the healthy lifestyle opportunity - a lifestyle which comes with a daily dose of Vitamin Sea. Continuing our look at Croatia through the eyes  of a digital nomad with Cyndie Burkhardt. 

What do two Scots, two Koreans, and two Americans have in common? Love for turquoise water, spectacular coastlines, and great food—while sailing in Croatia.

When a friend mentioned sailing as his single agenda item in Croatia, it struck me as the perfect opportunity to indulge both his request and my desire for an elegant sea excursion. Walking past mega yachts docked just past Split’s Riva, I’d had numerous fantasizes about how cool it would be to board one, sail grandly through the Adriatic, and sip champagne for days, all the while following Beyoncé’s footsteps through the Adriatic and channeling my inner fabulousness. Oh yes, a trip would be booked.

A friendly greeting awaits Nera’s guests.

Our day sail began on a ferry, in Split. The plan was to meet John and Lyn McMorland, the Scottish couple who own Sunburst Sailing, on Brač and set off from there on their 42-foot yacht, Nera. Adventure began before we ever met them. As the ferry pulled up to Brać I noticed people standing on deck. I had wanted to ride outside and I went to investigate. One of the crew said, “If you’re getting off, go now.” What? Where were we? There was no announcement. I looked up and saw a sign—Milna. Yikes, this was my stop! I told the crewman I was getting off but had to go inside and get my friend. “Hurry!” he barked. I ran inside and the boat started pulling away. We raced to the ramp, watched the gap growing between us and land, and we jumped. The crew yelled and we giggled. We were stunned at the close call but glad to have averted a second casualty this morning. The first—the friend who originally suggested sailing overslept and completely missed the ferry. We were supposed to be a threesome and now we were just two.

Setting sail to cruise across the Adriatic.

The Nera was docked a short distance away and Lyn greeted us as we walked over. We hopped onboard, met our companions—a newlywed Korean couple, and the yacht left. After setting sail, Lyn offered us Prosecco then went below deck to prepare fresh canapes for a mid-morning snack. Not a single cloud dotted the sky and a light wind seemed ideal for sailing. This is what I’m talkin’ about! That silly smile of sheer bliss started creeping onto my face and I wasn’t even into my swimsuit yet.

Lyn discusses a day in the life of sailing. 

We stopped at several coves during the day and swam in crystal-clear water that was every shade of turquoise, sky blue, and green. Reflections from the sky and warm streaks of sunlight added gorgeous nuances of color and depth. I brought my goggles but jumped at the chance to trade up for John’s snorkel gear. Below water, a teeming bed of sea life and a rocky terrain was captivating. Above, different sounds of water and waves blended in with sightings of butterflies, bees, and seagulls.

Refreshing sips of Prosecco fill the morning ride. 

Shifting from underwater explorer to sun worshiper, I settled onto a raft and felt the sun warm my body. Before long, a miniature unicorn-shaped floaty came toward me, it was holding a cup of cold Prosecco. Yesss! John grabbed my camera and captured the scene while we all laughed out loud. Back onboard, an amazing smell wafted up through the galley. John, who is a trained chef, was preparing vegetable risotto topped with Dalmatian ham for lunch. The table was silent as we all enjoyed the meal. Dessert was tiramisu followed by a finisher of rogač. Everything was fresh and delicious.

Snorkeling in a small cove. 

Throughout the day we sailed past different places of interest. Mrduja is an islet that sits between Brač and Šolta. It holds a charming history concerning an annual tug of war over ownership rights to this tiny, uninhabited land. Fishing boats from both sides line up with ropes tied between them and to Mrduja itself. The spectacle is seeing who pulls the hardest. The Three Sisters Tower at Bobovišća sits on the family residence of Croatian poet Vladimir Nazor, who built it in 1937 to memorialize his three sisters.

A classic Dalmatian coastline—limestone and pine trees.

Talking with John and Lyn, it’s clear they’re in love with Croatia and this sailing life. They go the extra mile to treat guests like VIPs—thinking of every detail (hot shower and fluffy towels), making the experience memorable (fully catered, Croatian food and wine), and creating an easy atmosphere (relax under the shaded canopy or on the open sunny bow). Beyond being excellent hosts, they’re a good team. They’re also people you want to share stories and a meal with. I could get used to this.

The author is served.

Lying on deck beneath full sails that blew us back to Split, I closed my eyes, filled my lungs with fresh salty air, and rocked comfortably in the undulating rhythm of the sea.

The captain in the galley preparing lunch.

A rough wave pushed us to one side and my leg shifted in the opposite direction to brace me. With that movement, my phone slid out from between my legs and tumbled toward the sea. The only thing that saved it from the depths of the Adriatic was a small lip on the edge of the boat. From his captain’s position, John immediately saw what happened and yelled, “Quick, grab it!” I was already on my feet and my heart skipped a beat as I leaned down hoping to make the catch before the next wave. I can’t even think about the alternative…

Vegetable risotto topped with Dalmatian ham. 

Back in Split, John and Lyn dropped us at the yacht dock and we waved goodbye as the Nera headed back home to Brač. The yacht may be (slightly) smaller than Beyoncé’s but she’s mighty. I felt spoiled rotten and I loved every minute.

Mrduja inspires a famous annual tug of war between Brač and Šolta.

Learn more about Sunburst Sailing and schedule a tour.

Three pillars make up the Three Sisters Tower on Bobovišća.

Story and photographs ©2020, Cyndie Burkhardt. www.photo-diaries.com.

Captain John commands the wheel.

You can follow the latest from Cyndie's column, Croatia Through the Eyes of a Digital Nomad here.

For the latest news about digital nomads in Croatia, including that sought-after nomad visa, check out the dedicated TCN digital nomad news section. 

Crystal clear turquoise water twinkles.

For the latest travel info, bookmark our main travel info article, which is updated daily. 

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ZAGREB, November 18, 2019 - Nautical tourists who rent vessels in Croatia spent 4.8 billion kuna from the start of the year until the end of October, the Croatian Chamber of Commerce stated on Monday.

Of that amount, almost a third, that is above 30%, went on what those visitors enjoyed in cultural tourism and local cuisine.

These figures were presented during the first Yacht Charter Conference called "Booking Manager Summit", which is taking place in Zagreb on Monday and Tuesday.

This educational and networking conference for charter professionals intends to enable charter professionals to gain knowledge from leading experts in sales, marketing, SEO, photography and taxes.

"Yacht chartering is the most important segment of nautical tourism in Croatia," Ivan Soža, the head of the HGK county branch in Šibenik, informed the conference,

Croatia has 4,500 vessels, 140 marinas and 17,000 berths for nautical tourism.

More news about yachting in Croatia can be found in the Travel section.

ZAGREB, October 23, 2019 - In the first nine months of 2019, the Croatian ACI chain of marinas earned a net profit of 33.7 million kuna, 5.7 million or 14.6% less than in the same period of 2018, shows the company's financial report.

Most of the profit, in the amount of 32.5 million kuna, was generated in July, August and September, during the peak tourist season. Compared to the same period of last year, this was a drop of 5.7 million kuna or 14.9%.

The marina operator's revenues in the first nine months totalled 186.4 million kuna, 8.2 million kuna or 5% more year-on-year.

Total expenses, in the amount of 145.3 million kuna, were 15.2 million or 12% higher, with operating expenses increasing by 15.9 million kuna while financial expenses decreased by 700,000 kuna.

The increase in operating expenses was due to the results generated by the Rovinj marina, which was opened in April and recorded negative results, primarily due to depreciation costs amounting to 6.9 million kuna.

On 30 September there were 3,392 vessels moored in ACI marinas on an annual basis, one percent less than in the same period of last year.

The completion of a general renovation of the ACI marina Rovinj was one of the company's more significant investments, costing more than 150 million kuna.

More sailing news can be found in the Travel section.

October 13, 2019 - An early morning and long lens encounter with one of the most talked-about boats on the Adriatic this summer, Sailing Yacht 'A'.

TCN is delighted to welcome Fritz Gotschim to the team. Fritz, a passionate sailor, runs the successful Bay Express magazine and app for sailors, and he is never far from the water. One early start a few weeks ago provided a wonderful and tranquil early morning view of one of the boats of the summer, Sailing Yacht 'A'.

It happened on the way to Biokovo Nature Park. And it became a trip to the source of wonderment, the perception of the beautiful and the special, something that Croatian tourism may not quite succeed in: bringing its otherness onto the world tourism stage like an opera. Only that nothing needs to be staged. Everything is already there, everything is ready on stage, only the curtain is not raised by anyone, the audience are satisfied even with a small gap through which they look at the stage. They leave money there and that makes the locals happy, even if it could be more. 

What you see is enough for the tourists, compared to other countries, but does not show anything special about what is necessary to become a sustainable global brand. This remains largely behind the curtain.

And in winter, the curtain is closed, opaque, so to speak, at least in Dalmatia. The money from the summer will be enough over the turn of the year, one says on stage. And by the way, what could you do about it? Nobody comes in the winter.

But now to the trip, one of many in recent years, which should keep me busy for a long time.

No more motorcades, as in the high season, which meander south from Split on the Makarska Riviera and demand a full concentration of motorcyclists, if one wants to take advantage of the two-wheeler. This is the time to focus sometimes on what's off the road. Not often you can see the coastline of this Riviera from the curvy main road, it is mostly covered by houses or green or lies too steep below, and if you see it, then you do not have a second, because the next turn needs attention.

Only the opposite island of Brac is almost always visible.

An hour and a little more than 40km driven, much faster it is not even with the bike, the anticipation rises to the first part of the route with a really good view. After leaving the town of Pisak behind you and taking the road in a long, gentle right turn over 200 meters, you can look at the beauty of this landscape more than a second and you also see the parking lot in time. You can stop and enjoy the view of the massif of Sveti Jure, which borders the steep Makarska Riviera.

It was everything as always, magnificent nature in the early morning and the clear backlight emphasized the backdrop of the rugged mountain. The bura blew and made the view wide and detailed, here she was clearly felt, then it was again held by Sveti Jure.

As soon as the long right turn came to an end, just before full attention had to return to traffic, the gaze caught a strange silhouette on the water, the size of which did not quite match the presumed distance. But then the curve was already over and the now parallel to the road running coastline did not clear the view.

The focus was now defensive driving, to use every free-looking outlook in search of this silhouette.

An expectation of excitement set in, which reached its climax after 5 kilometers, when the view for the first time was released on the largest motor glider in the world. It was in front of Brel, very close to the coast, with its 100-meter-high masts with the unmistakable, characteristic shape. With a draft of 8 meters you can only get close to steep coast lines.

Immediately to the right at the next opportunity to stop: Grand Opera, this motor glider "A", owned by the oligarch Andrej Melnichenko, who divided the professional world with the look of this yacht: the boat designed by the famous Philippe Starck is far from what is commonly called nautical. And that is why it attracts attention all over the world, no matter where the yacht anchors. Also because the design required technical solutions that did not exist before.

Bill Gates and others were here in Croatia with yachts this summer, there were photos of the yachts, which were very similar to each other. But talked about people, not about the ships.

Before Brel it is the other way round, everyone knows the ship, no one can pronounce the name of the owner correctly.

Observed from a height of over 50 meters, from the slopes over Brel, the "Sailing Yacht A" presents itself in its otherness as nowhere else. Mostly it anchors one or two miles away from the land, even before Split you could not get close to it. If, then from the waterline and there comes the almost "opaque" design of the yacht into play: view yes, but insight: njet.

Only those who step onto the fold-out balconies will be visible. A large armchair with a mask like backrest, placed in the corner of the balcony and apparently designed by Starck, plays ironically with what is seen.

On over 140m length or 8 decks you can hide well on this yacht, also in the stern of the hull, where under the waterline, near the propellers, a submarine-like cabin with large glass chests is installed. Oh, yes, a submarine should also be on board. Only the helicopter that can land on the foredeck will never go unnoticed.

I would like to take the lift from the dinghy garage to the main deck to take a look at the Sveti Jure.

After talking to the locals, a plan is made. Shooting in the morning light. The views that Brel offers are ideal. The yacht will stay for a few days, there is a family connection between the "A" and Brel.

The next morning is clear, the Bura does not give off any haze and so there is something like the Croatian light. Sunrise is about 6 o'clock, I got my point at 5.30 and watch the beginning of the day's work on deck, which is also partly executed with the help of a banal floor mop instead of special technique. But the lonely morning cleaner in the mild twilight on 140 meters deck and the massive mast constructions are great cinema. 

Always the special feature unfolds only in contrast and in the correct angle of view.

The next hour, until the sun comes out in full force behind the mountain, passes with change of attitude and never-decreasing fascination. In today's attention economy, I have one of the masterpieces in front of me.

Unmistakable, different, terrific in detail and in a team thought out by the builders together with the owner in all its facets. Boarding is not necessary to know that. Everyone sees this from the outside, especially through the long telephoto. The shipyard was not allowed to publish any footage. 

Only on boatinternational.com you can find details about the construction. 

You do not have to find the ship beautiful, you can call it a waste of money. But that's the way we humans are, we're looking for something special and some are creating something special and others have it, without many knowing it.

The "Sailing Yacht A" of the shipyard Nobiskrug is known by the whole nautical world, it has an aura of the special. Attention is sure, no matter where she anchors.

The situation is different with the sailing area where the "A" anchored last week. It's not completely unknown, it's special, yes, but not many people know about it in detail.

Apart from Dubrovnik, Split, Sibenik, Hvar and maybe also Vis (with Mamma Mia is still a story of its own) hardly destinations have their own aura, which is perceived from the outside.

Of course, this is exactly what is interesting for superyachts, when their passengers are not so much noticed by the public in small port cities and can stroll around almost unnoticed. But even that would be a starting point to work out a tourist trait and to place it on the big world stage of tourism and to develop it into something special.

ZAGREB, August 27, 2019 - The Marina Punat Group, which includes a marina, a hotel and a shipyard, plans to invest 160 million kuna in renovation and nautical competitiveness by 2025, reporters were told in Punat on Krk island on Monday.

Minister Gari Cappelli, present at the press conference, highlighted Croatia's nautical tourism and underlined the importance of investing in quality product.

Croatia has 72 marinas with 17,500 berths in total as well as 20,000 dry berths, he said, adding that 480,000 arrivals and 3.1 million nights were expected in chartering this year.

About 54,000 boats have docked in Croatia this year and average spending per person is 126 euro in nautical tourism and 186 euro in boat chartering, the minister said.

Cappelli said nautical and health tourism would be important segments of the tourism development strategy in the future as they resulted in higher spending and demand. "Such guests want high quality, and quality and sustainable development will make our tourism competitive also in the future."

He said accommodation facilities which had invested in quality were fuller this year than others, adding that Croatia did not want to lower prices but offer quality product for them.

The Punat marina is the oldest marina in Croatia and the largest in the northern Adriatic with 1,450 berths on 14 piers for boats up to 40 m in length.

More news about sailing in Croatia can be found in the Lifestyle section.

July 26, 2019 - As the Ministry of Tourism restricts access to the transparent and award-winning eVisitor statistics system and last available statistics pointing to another record season, many destinations are reporting the exact opposite. So is anyone having a record season in Croatia? Meet Chris from Koda Sail.

A few days ago, I posted on my Facebook wall that I was looking for any tourism businesses who were indeed having a record season to be featured on TCN. Although it is the peak season and people were busy, I was expecting a few replies. I have received just two replies, which you can read below (the offer is still open, details at the bottom of this article). The first interview I did with Ante Lacman of Hvar Tours caused plenty of discussion in certain circles. 

And for the second, we head to the sailboats of the Adriatic to find out how Chris Tabone of Koda Sail is enjoying his summer. 

2. We hear you are having a good season while many are complaining or a poor what. Tell us about that, and what are you doing differently? 

I believe there has been a shift in tourism here in Croatia. The travellers are wanting different things so you have to keep it fresh. I've been working in Europe for almost 10 years now and see some companies still doing the same thing I saw them do way back then. 

 

I'm trying my best not to fall into the trap of just doing what is easy, and try to change things up and add new relevant things to my tours each year. For that reason alone I know my customers know they are going to get the best of what our destinations are offering. Listen to what your customers are wanting and make changes. 

 

 

 

What do each do best? I think Croatia has really compensated for what tourists want and have made those changes, whereas Turkey has stuck to what they know and kept everything as is. There is a fine line here where both destinations can learn from each other. 

 

As great as it is that Croatia has compensated for tourism, I feel that it has lost the charm I first saw here 15 years ago and you see less locals enjoying the towns and some actually avoiding them altogether, whereas in Turkey you can find locals side by side with you, interested in talking and integrating with the tourists. 

 

I know that in Croatia the 'party boats' have really put a sour taste in the mouths of the locals and they don't wish to integrate with the tourists, which is something I'm totally aware of and have been trying to bring back the level of respect with nicer travellers.  

 

5. Are you happy with the direction of Croatian tourism in general? What suggestions do you have to improve it?

Overall I think Croatian tourism is great. I've been lucky enough to really get to know the locals and see year after year how tourism has continually changed. It's a country that has so much to offer for the tourist and the people here are passionate about their home. 

 

One thing that I think that could be a problem moving forward is the ever-increasing costs. Croatia used to be an affordable destination, whereas now the word is spreading that it's not as cheap to travel here as it once was. I'm afraid that this becoming a deterrent, and destinations like Greece and Turkey are now becoming those more affordable destinations. Something I'd like to see the government step in on and help the Tourism and Hospitality sectors to keep the tourists coming here.

 

 

On Monday 22^nd April 2019, sad news spread along the coast with Jugo that Željko Jerat, the man who spearheaded the revival of the Lateen sails and gave so much to his community and the sea, passed away.

Željko Jerat was viewed as a visionary and leader by many. When most move away to study and never return, Željko returned from studying engineering in Zagreb, back to his “malo misto” (small place) of Murter. For the past two decades, it is from here that Željko revived the story of the Lateen Sails and played a vital role in preserving the maritime traditions in Murter and surrounding areas.

More than two decades ago, Dr. Vladimir Skračić had the idea that a regatta should be held alongside the anniversary of the Patron Saint Michael, to recognise the traditional sailing vessels which symbolised the life of Murter, and preserve the heritage of the region. This idea grew to reality, thanks to a team of enthusiasts spearheaded by Željko Jerat.

At that time, there were only three boats with Lateen sails on Murter, but thanks to a push from Jerat and others, four more traditional boats were restored just in time, so there were seven boats for the first “Latinsko Idro” (Lateen Sails Regatta). In time, this event has grown to a point where it now features 77 boats, not only from Murter, but also from Krk, Rab and Vis. This project united people from all across the Adriatic to restore these boats and keep a piece of priceless island history alive.

In an article by Sibenski Dalmacija, Jordanka Grubač described Jerat as a man with “seemingly limitless energy, infinite actions, endless devotion and loyalty to traditions and the sea… a man with exceptional organisational skills, a generous spirit, honesty and unbounded enthusiasm, right ‘til his end”.

“Every house in Vrulje which did not have a boat, knew that the olives would make it to the press in Murter if Željko was there with his leut. There was no sea nor cargo that Željko and “Jaruh” couldn’t do. And certainly, no lateen sail regatta that they couldn’t win.”

He held many prestigious titles in his time, founded one of the first charters in the region, which created many jobs for Murter locals, he was Head of the Croatian Charter Association, head of the Murter Tourist Board and of course, president of the Latinkso Idro Association – which has kept the story of the Lateen Sails alive for 21 years.

Željko Jerat was truly a character of the sea and man of the people, who will be sorely missed by the entire community.

In 2017, in an interview with Slobodna Dalmacija, when asked about the future of the regatta, Jerat said the same question needs to be posed to the public, the local authorities and the state institutions:

“How much do we actually care and are we ready for the next step?”

We wrote a post about whether Croatia should brand its traditional boats and regattas like they do in Sète, France – an event and manifestation which attracts close to half a million guests over Easter. Two years later, and not much has been done but hardly surprising considering the Croatian Tourism Board can’t even use Game of Thrones to their advantage.

If anything, I wouldn’t mind if Croatia didn’t brand itself as Game of Thrones country, but rather cherished, revived and promoted the incredible traditions and heritage that it has – like the story of the Lateen Sails. Maritime traditions and shipbuilding were a huge part of Dalmatia’s history. The Betina Museum in Murter, with its restored Gajeta and interactive and educational programs is a testament to this, but the “Latinsko Idro” (Lateen Sails Regatta), is something else – a living testament, history in motion, something to be seen, felt and experienced. Croatia has men like Željko Jerat to thank for this and should be doing more with this.

We know his spirit will live on in those who knew him, and can only hope his work and passion will not be lost, but rather continued and pushed forward by the next generation. The country at large could take inspiration from Željko Jerat and this story.

 Mirno More Željko.

For more sailing news, you can follow our dedicated page Total Croatia Sailing, and find us on Facebook.

April 20^th 2019, it’s not too late to escape from the ‘real world’ for a bit, book a sailing holiday in Croatia.

Let’s face it, there is not much positive news around the world at the moment, or this is what the mass media would have us believe. What, with Trump, Brexit, climate change, and news being released that we are in the midst of a mass extinction… it is easy to feel overwhelmed. Maybe a sailing holiday in Croatia is just what the doctor ordered.

Last year, sailing in charter for the summer, almost every single person shared that they were feeling weighted by anxiety; the stress of the daily grind coupled with the state of the world in general. These were well-educated people, all successful in their various careers, feeling at a complete loss. Stepping aboard our yacht for the first time, everyone was excited but also apprehensive, everyday stress notably resting on their shoulders.

One of my greatest joys working on a yacht in private charter, is seeing the difference between people stepping aboard and then disembarking at the end of the week.

Our itinerary is based on our clients’ wishes and while some people come aboard with a list of ‘must sees’, it usually doesn’t take long for them to realise that this will not just be another trip of ticking things off the ‘bucket list’, it offers so much more. We oblige their initial requests, talk and inform along the way, but within a few days, most guests entrust the experience of their holiday to us – an honour we do not take lightly.

We love sharing the history and culture of Croatia with our guests, but more so, we love taking them to ‘off-the-beaten-path’ locations, and just allowing them to completely relax and immerse in nature. Slow mornings, with breakfast, hot coffee and fresh juice waiting. Anchored in a bay with nothing but the rhythmic beating of the cicadas’ chorus to fill the air. Diving directly off the boat into the crystal-clear turquoise waters, before we hoist the sails and catch the late morning breeze and find another spot to anchor for lunch. Fresh grilled fish, accompanied with a crisp glass of local wine – did you know Croatia has 132 indigenous grape varieties? Another swim and siesta, before we pull into the harbour of a quaint coastal town. Evening strolls, local restaurants, live music, ice cream… before happily toddling back to their home away from home. If this doesn’t sound like bliss, I don’t know what does.

Photo credit: Mario Romulić

I could wax lyrical about the historical sites, the culture, nature, gastronomy of Croatia but more often than not, it is the simple moments that stand out for our guests. We had esteemed psychologists, actors, IT experts, people topping rich lists, tell us about the stress and drama of their lives and then we watched these same people succumb to the beautifully slow rhythm of a sailing holiday in Croatia. Those who had booked several activities in advance, eventually cancelled some of their plans and threw their itinerary out the porthole – content to just take each day as it came, allowing for whim and inspiration or just divine ‘nothingness’ (fjaka).

I am not advocating from running away from responsibilities and the reality of this world, but sometimes, we need a small retreat, an escape from life to be able to return to it invigored. And, I may be biased but, after years of travel, I still have not found anything that tops a sailing holiday in Croatia. Every single guest we have ever had, no matter how well-travelled, has inevitably told us that it was their best holiday, ever.

Photo credit: Mario Romulić

Nature has an undeniable way of bringing us out of our heads, away from daily pressures and back to ourselves. And, a 7-day sailing holiday in Croatia is the best way to truly escape everything and immerse ourselves in nature and the present moment. You’ll wake up in peaceful bays, sail past the changing coastline of unique islands, swim in crystalline waters, watch every sunset and maybe catch a sunrise (which we highly recommend doing at least once).

Photo Credit: Tash Peričić

I am lucky that I get to sail Croatia all summer. Yes, it is physically and emotionally challenging at times, but for the most part, I have nature to reinvigorate and inspire me. While I escape the ‘real life’ for four months of the year, it leaves me more inspired to connect and engage in a meaningful way off the boat. It keeps me connected to this world, knowing that we all need to do our part to make a difference, and it helps keep me grounded and put life in perspective – by only focusing on what matters. And, I believe that even if for only 7-days, this is what all of our guests get from their sailing holiday in Croatia.

At the end of every week, our guests stepped off our yacht – sun-kissed, with a spring in their step, a new glitter in their eyes and the weight of the world removed from their shoulders. I would like to think that they had more to give to their families and lives once they returned to the ‘real world’. We can’t be our best and give our all to life if our cups are empty.

Escape. Book a sailing holiday in Croatia to escape the stress of life – then return fully-charged.

For more stories like this, visit our dedicated Lifestyle Page, or Total Croatia Sailing.

From the 11^th – 14^th April, 2019, I attended the PBZ Easter Regatta (Uskršnja Regata) on Hvar island. I was the only woman in a 12-man crew, aboard “Franko II” (First 47.7) with Mario Kundih at the helm; as a first-time crew together, we won the ORC-Nauta class.

This year marked the 23^rd Anniversary for the PBZ Easter Regatta (Uskršnja Regata) on Hvar island (previously held in Vodice). The Easter Regatta was the second regatta in a series of four regattas for the CRO-ORC Cup – the most important ORC regattas in Croatia. As such, this regatta attracts a myriad of high-calibre sailors and a variety of yachts – ranging from a Salona 34, X-41 all the way up to the very sexy TP52; and, while there were a few crews from Slovenia and one from the Czech Republic, it is a predominantly Croatian dominated regatta.

Photo credit: Miro Zadravec

I was invited to join the crew aboard “Franko II” (First 47.7) by Mario Kundih, and was to be the only woman in a ’12-man’ crew. I would be lying if I said I wasn’t a little apprehensive. While I have been at sea here for 7 years now, 2018 was my first year getting into the world of sailing – thanks to doing a skipper training course with Kundih aboard an X-43 last year, and my first season with my husband sailing a Scorpio 72 in Charter. The world of regattas is still very new to me and I have a lot to learn; so, I was extremely honoured to be asked to join the crew for the 2019 Easter Regatta.

I met “Franko II” and half our crew in Primošten on Tuesday for a day of sail training and delivering the yacht to Hvar, in preparation for Thursday’s first race. As with anything in Croatia, it was – first coffee, provision the boat, then we were on our way to Hvar. Unfortunately, there was no wind, so we motored all the way, but around 4 pm, the wind picked up, so we did some night sailing around the port of Hvar until 9 pm, practising manoeuvres and getting acquainted with the boat and each other.

My earlier apprehension about sailing and being the only woman aboard, quickly washed away as I felt immediately comfortable with the guys aboard. I had experienced Kundih’s relaxed yet informative approach to sail training last year, and this was the tone that was set aboard. As a crew, we had a mix of experience between us, the connecting factor between all of us being Kundih; some of the guys he has been sailing with for years, half the crew are experienced skippers – sailing in charter every year, while others (like myself), he had recently trained and were very ‘green’ in regards to the world of regattas. Considering Kundih came first in the ORC-Nauta Class the last two years, and 3^rd overall last year, I was impressed that he was willing to form a new crew and take a ‘risk’ on some of us, just to give us the opportunity to sail in this sort of high-calibre regatta.

After a few hours of sailing manoeuvres: tacking, raising the spinnaker, jibing and dropping the spinnaker; we got a spot on the Riva in Hvar, and I was reminded how much I love Hvar pre and post-season.

I prepared an easy bolognese for dinner, not because I had to (being the only woman) but because I wanted to, my way of saying ‘thanks for having me aboard’. But ‘true colours’ were shown quickly when a few of the boys immediately said: “please don’t feel you have to cook just because you are the only woman.” They jumped in to help and did all the cleaning up, who said Croatians aren’t gentlemen?

With no race day the following day, we took the opportunity to have a few drinks and get to know each other; a brilliant night, sitting around the table in the salon, drinking and singing until the small hours of the morning. Team bonding at its finest.

We had planned to train together on Wednesday, but rain all day and no wind hindered these plans. The rest of the crew arrived to Hvar that evening – four more guys to make our 12-man crew complete. We went out for dinner with another great crew from the Czech Republic and had another night of gemišt (the sailor's choice) and singing. But it was a much earlier night (for most), as we had the first day of racing on Thursday and were hoping to hit the water early to get in some training altogether as a complete crew.

Easter Regatta: Race Days

Thursday’s racing was an upwind – downwind race, with three races for the day; with a forecast of up to 20-knots and SE winds (Jugo), it was to be a good day of racing. Our 10 am race start was delayed, but instead of heading back to port as half the fleet, we stayed out and used it as an opportunity to train – because we still hadn’t all trained together. As a 12-man crew, we were a lot of bodies on the boat, with mixed experience and it was essential that everyone knew their role. Mario Kundih was our helmsman, Luka Bebler was our tactician, Luka Blaic our key sail trimmer and all-rounder, Korado Gabo on mainsheet, Rudi Marx and Siniša Bartolin our Mast-men, Tomislav Šujeranović and Matej Doždor our bowmen. Ivan Cevra, Matija Bogadi and Alex Bilik formed the rest of our pitmen. I was ballast and floating – mostly on the bow. And, we had Miro Zadravec on board as our official photographer.

Photo Credit: Tash Pericic

Considering half the crew were very experienced skippers, it was going to be interesting to see how we would work together and cooperate – ‘too many chiefs’ came to mind. Add this to the fact that we were a first-time crew together, first time on the boat and an international crew (Croatia, NZ, Slovakia and Germany), it was clear that communication and teamwork were going to be vital to our success. It was either going to be a fantastic few days, or a really stressful week!

After practising a few manoeuvres, we geared up for our first race. With 13 yachts in our ORC-Nauta class, we had a strong start and quickly took a decent lead, which we needed because of our handicap. In race one we came 1^st, R2 – 2^nd, and R3 – 1^st. So, after calculations for our first day of racing, we were coming 1^st overall. A solid start for a first-time crew together.

Photo Credit: Miro Zadravec

As it turned out, day one would be our most exciting day of racing in the Easter Regatta; with an upwind-downwind course and great wind, it was more a skilled, technical race, less about tactics. A great vibe and dynamic quickly established itself aboard. The only drama was our spinnaker pole not shooting for the last two races, but thanks to quick reactions and leadership, we managed to keep it under control to cross the line – we probably lost around 30 seconds, but maintained 2^nd place in the second race and first overall. And more importantly, we survived our first day of racing – no injuries, major dramas and an excellent team energy maintained throughout.

Photo Credit: Tash Pericic, manually handling the Spinnaker to get across the line!

The next two days of racing were navigational races in less wind, making it a game of tactics over fast action and technical sailing. Friday was a slow day, on the Spinnaker for most of the day in search of wind but it was a great chance for me to learn more on the bow, and fine-tune my skills in bringing in and prepping the spinnaker. As it was my first serious regatta and I had less experience than the rest of the crew, I was thankful to be ballast and floating on the bow, to have a prime position to watch everyone, learn, and jump in when I could. The course was from Hvar across the channel to Vis, returning around the Pakleni islands, finishing in the port of Hvar.

Photo Credit: Dubravka Pajk

While it was a quiet day for the majority of the crew, it was still a full day of concentration for Kundih, our tactician and main trimmer. Even though the vibe on the boat was light, and a few gemišt were always in hand, it was great to watch these guys work, see their concentration and hear them talk tactics. My initial thought that there may be too many ‘chiefs’ aboard, was easily allayed as yes, there were discussions and a few differing opinions over the 3 days, but the boys managed to respectfully listen and/or compromise. I have worked on a lot of boats and seen many different crews, and it is typically ego which kills the vibe on a boat; considering the level of experience half the guys had, the lack of ego and pride was truly admirable.

Photo Credit: Tash Pericic

We had a different sort of photo-finish over the line: we were behind two other yachts in our class, and 100 m from the finish line, the two yachts ahead of us lost their wind and came to a complete standstill; we somehow managed to keep our wind and crept over the line to finish first! This just goes to prove that while skill and tactics are key, lady luck still has her part to play sometimes. After calculations, we came 4^th overall for day two.

Day 3 of racing leaves even less to write about; light winds and another day of mostly downwind sailing. It was another navigational race, in front of Hvar and back down the channel; we had until 3pm to complete the race and the majority of the fleet didn’t manage this. Floating in the currents may be a better way to describe the day’s sailing, rather than racing. But still, any day at sea is a good day.

Results and Prizegiving

We finished 1^st overall in our ORC-Nauta class, which was Kundih’s third year in a row placing first in his class. In 2^nd place was Krka D (Elan 410) with Sebastijan Levstik at the helm, and 3^rd place Srna V (Bavaria CR 46) with Ciril Vrančić as helmsman.

Photo Credit: Uskrsnja Regata, FRANKO II, our winning team - missing a few crew members.

The winner of the ORC-Racer/Cruiser and overall winner of the Easter Regatta was veteran Tonko Rameša and his team aboard X-Cite (X-41). One-Salona (Salona 34) with Karlo Kuret at the helm came 2^nd, and Andela X (X37) with helmsman Teo Piasevoli placed 3^rd.

Overall winners, team X-Cite, photo credit: Uskrsnja Regata

Thanks to PBZ and great sponsorship, there was a large pool of prizes awarded. You can read the full results here.

Evening Entertainment for the Easter Regatta

The PBZ Easter Regatta (Uskrsnja Regata) is well-known for being not only a fantastic sailing regatta bringing together some of Croatia's finest sailors, but also for its organisation and great entertainment. This year's regatta was no different. The first night saw us partying in Hotel Park, with dinner and a DJ. The second night was definitely the highlight with the “Bodulska Večera“, which saw top chefs from the island preparing signature and traditional dishes in the Arsenal building. There was everything from škampi and mussel bužara, hand-rolled macaroni, gregada, pašticada to peka lamb; all sides of the gorgeous Arsenal building boasting food and top Hvar wines – like Ivan Dolac. Then a live band took it up a notch for a fantastic evening of singing and dancing. The final night kicked off with fireworks in the port of Hvar, followed by prizegiving. The night was actually a much ‘tamer’ atmosphere – though I think many spread the party into Hvar’s bars and clubs. Regardless, our crew still shone, as basically the only ones on the dancefloor all night!

Photo Credit: Easter Regatta Official

Comments from our Helmsman and Trimmer

Mario Kundih: “Together with a few friends and fellow skippers, we formed Sailing Club Endemi in 2010 with the aim to participate in the Easter Regatta, this was our 9^th year competing. The spark which started the story was a love for sailing and the sea. Since then, we came 1^st in the Second Open Group in 2011, and came 1^st in our class (Open Nauta), the last two years (now the last 3 years).

In the beginning, I wasn’t sure if we chose the right boat for the regatta but somehow, I believed in FRANKO II (First 47.7) and the crew. However, this year was always going to be a challenging race, as, for the first time there was an ORC Rating System (Handicap) for the Nauta class, which meant that each crew had to pull the absolute maximum from their boats if they wanted a good result – it was no longer enough to have the biggest or fastest boat. In short, the point of the ORC Rating System is to allow boats of different sizes and characteristics to race each other with an equal chance to win – with times corrected applying the handicap. This meant, everyone was on a similar playing field. There were a lot of great sailors in the fleet this year, so with the ORC handicap, it was a greater challenge.

The other challenge was in the organisation of the crew and boat before the race even began. The boat didn’t have ORC certificate, so we had to organise all the measurements one week before, then we realised that the main sail was too old to race with, so, in the last minute we changed for a slightly newer sail (still old), but this sail didn’t fit our mast, so we had to change some parts… in the end, we managed all of these things and it was a good decision. We got the ORC Certificate a few days before the race. Then, heading into day 1 of racing, we still hadn’t all trained together! But somehow, we managed to pull together and make it work.

First day, we had good wind and we came 1^st in two races, 2^nd in one, which placed us in a very good position. Next day was navigation with lighter winds, it was very hard to make decisions about where to tack, jibe… where to go to find some wind and avoid the sea current or use it to our advantage. We crossed the line first in our class, but with the adjusted time we came 4^th overall, which was still a great result because our boat was the largest and heaviest in the fleet – making it more of a challenge for us in light winds.

Photo credit: Easter, Regatta 2019 Miro Zadravec

The last day, we had even lighter winds and were racing against our strongest opponent – Krka… we chose to go right, closer to the islands, expecting some breeze, but it was the wrong decision and all of the fleet overtook us. At the end, we knew we had good points, so we could discard this race, which means we had to wait to see Krka’s result in the final race. Krka didn’t achieve 1^st place so that was enough for us to start celebrating. It was not an easy regatta and each crew member played their part in it.

I can honestly say that this was the sweetest victory on the Easter Regatta so far. I will always remember my first victory in the Open Class in 2011, but this was definitely the sweetest. And I have to thank all of my crew for this, it was an honour to be the skipper for such an amazing crew, we were really like ONE from the beginning to the very end.”

Luka Blaic: “I met Kundih 10 years ago and we have been sailing together since; I have only missed one Easter Regatta since then. Kundih’s energy and passion for sailing was something that distinguished him from other helmsmen; Kundih always gives his whole heart and makes you give the best from yourself in return – it is easy to sail with someone when you see so much passion in them.

I had a great time on this particular regatta, despite the weather, this regatta was a knot better. One of the main reasons for this was the energy between the crew.”

Photo Credit: Tash Pericic

My Experience Aboard… 

The Atmosphere aboard Franko II was absolutely fantastic for the entire 5 days, far better than I could have asked for. It takes a lot to bring together the right mix of people, to balance personalities and expectations – particularly in sailing. Then, to set and sustain a great atmosphere aboard for a week is another thing entirely. This is a huge credit to Kundih for setting a great tone in such a diverse group (in age, experience and cultures), and also to the entire crew for the respect and good nature they brought to the table each and every day. If I was worried about being the only woman among 12 men, I shouldn’t have been. I’ve always said that the sea breeds the best humans, and is a natural setting for friendship and comradery – this last week proved this true again. The guys showed me nothing but respect, support and encouragement all week. Even drinking into the night with them, the respect and good nature never once waned.

I took the time to learn more about sailing and observe all of the crew. Overall, what I saw was a group of guys passionate about sailing; those with more experience willing to teach and those with less experience, thirsty to learn. I witnessed humility and incredible leadership among some of those with the most experience. By this point, it goes without saying that Kundih set a great tone aboard – a calm and confident leader that didn’t feel the need to assert his authority, but rather empowered every crew member to do their job. This is easier said than done during dramatic moments.

A special mention also needs to be said for Luka Blaic our main trimmer; he was quiet until something needed to be said, everything he said had a purpose and he was happy to teach, but he was also there to jump to action with solutions when shit went wrong. His knowledge of every aspect of the boat was apparent and his humility spoke volumes; he was someone to learn from and a leader in his own right. Of course, I could say a few words about each of the crew but then this would turn into a novel. We were basically “Ocean’s 12”, everyone had a talent and contributed to the ‘whole’ – whether in singing, dancing, hilarity, humility… and of course, sailing.

As well as the aspect of sailing and learning about race sailing, I also had a chance to have insightful conversations with each of the guys. I had first-time fathers sharing their joy and showing me photos of their little ones, other fathers telling me how much they love taking their kids sailing and instilling in them the same passion for the sea. I talked psychology and leadership skills with another sailor who is a Managing Director in his company. Had another new sailor tell me about how he can’t wait to start earning decent money so he can take his parents travelling and share new experiences with them. One of the guys explained to me how he took a risk and quit his IT job to pursue a career at sea. Almost the entire crew works at sea during summer, so we all shared experiences (good and bad) and traded ‘insider info’ of favourite restaurants, destinations etc. If you are willing to listen, everyone has a story to tell and with mutual respect, we can all appreciate what the other brings to the table.

Learning to sail and the competitive nature of regattas is just one aspect, to me, the rest is all about the people.

The Real Secret to our Success at the Easter Regatta?

I think it is clear to see by now that a huge part of the secret to our success was great leadership, teamwork and respect. I think we also didn’t take ourselves too seriously; we were all in, excited and committed to the sailing, but there was no unnecessary tension. Kundih and other key players set an overall relaxed tone, which encouraged everyone to be their best.

The other secret may possibly be gemišt... sail hard, play hard – right?! But, don’t quote me on this.

Looking ahead to the Easter Regatta 2020

Overall, an incredible experience at the 2019 Easter Regatta in Hvar, and finishing 1^st in the ORC Nauta Class was just the icing on the cake. I am grateful for being given the opportunity to join this crew in the Easter Regatta. This is how these sorts of industries move forward – by encouraging and inspiring passion in others, whether the younger generation or newer sailors like myself.

Now I’m hooked and already looking forward to the next regatta. A huge congratulations to all competitors and organisers for a fantastic event, see you all in 2020!

Photo credit: Miro Zadravec

Photo credit: Miro Zadravec

 All photos copyright to accredited photographers, special thanks to Miro Zadravec for being aboard with us to capture the action!

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