August 5, 2020 - The latest news from around Croatia’s airports for flights to Croatia with updates from Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik.

Croatian Airlines reports that Aegean Airlines, a Star Alliance member, previously announced the start of traffic to three Croatian airports (Dubrovnik, Split and Zagreb) from September this year. All flights to the mentioned destinations have been canceled for this year.

Before the pandemic, Aegean Airlines planned to operate to three destinations in Croatia from Athens (Eleftherios Venizelos Airport). The start of traffic was first postponed to September, and now all flights to Croatia have been canceled for this year.

Lines to Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik were supposed to operate with a smaller number of weekly flights compared to last summer season, but due to weak demand, the company completely canceled flights on these routes and does not intend to launch them this year.

This left the airports in Split and Zagreb without a direct connection with the Greek capital. Croatia Airlines operates on the route Zagreb - Athens with a stop in Dubrovnik, so the flight between the two capitals is not direct. The Zagreb - Athens (via Dubrovnik) route of Croatia Airlines continues to operate three times a week, every Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday on the DashQ400 aircraft, with a capacity of 76 passengers.

It should also be mentioned that Volotea also canceled flights from Dubrovnik and Split to Athens until the end of the summer flight schedule.

Furthermore, Croatian Aviation reported that as of Sunday, August 2, Turkish Airlines is operating fewer weekly flights on the Istanbul - Zagreb route.

In July, Turkish Airlines operated five times a week on the Istanbul - Zagreb route, but since the beginning of August, there has been a reduction in the number of weekly flights. Throughout August, the company will operate on the mentioned line only four times a week, every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, flights will take place on Mondays and Fridays in the evening, and Wednesdays and Sundays in the morning.

Smaller capacity aircraft (mainly A319) have been announced on the route. It is worth mentioning that before the outbreak of the pandemic, Turkish Airlines flew to Zagreb twice a day, transporting a large number of passengers from Asia, and these tourists are almost non-existent in Croatia this year. The company has repeatedly adjusted its capacity on the line by introducing larger aircraft, such as the A330, but this will probably not be necessary this year.

The second line of Turkish Airlines in Croatia, to Dubrovnik, was previously announced for September. However, all flights have been postponed and the company is currently offering flights in October, though they will soon be canceled. In fact, Turkish Airlines will not return to Dubrovnik Airport this year.

For the latest travel info, bookmark our main travel info article, which is updated daily. 

Read the Croatian Travel Update in your language - now available in 24 languages

Join the Total Croatia Travel INFO Viber community.

August 1, 2020 - 154 planes landed in Dubrovnik on July 31, 2019 - and on Thursday, there were only 55, said the Dubrovnik mayor of the catastrophic tourist results in the Adriatic pearl. 

With the heat, Croatia and Europe are preparing for another summer weekend and a new shift of tourists. They come and go, but not to southern Croatia, reports Jutarnji List.

Mato Frankovic, the mayor of Dubrovnik, the city most affected by the corona crisis, told Dnevnik Nova TV on Friday evening that 8,800 guests were in the city at the end of July.

"That is 32 percent compared to last year. In order to show the drama of the situation - 154 planes landed in Dubrovnik last year, and today, only 55. Last year, 16,500 guests came on this day, and this year, only 2,400. Dubrovnik is recording catastrophic tourist results," Frankovic revealed.

When asked what it would mean if August is as bad as July, the mayor said that August could be good.

"We need airlines to stay and if it stays that way, if we are not introduced into the quarantine system by our priority markets, Dubrovnik will survive this year," he said.

He added that the Adriatic pearl is preparing for the worst-case scenario.

"We are in the process of obtaining a loan in the amount of 100 million kuna to help all those who are greatly suffering, and that is the Dubrovnik economy," he told Dnevnik Nova TV.

Frankovic concluded that Dubrovnik "must never again be a monocultural city that depends exclusively on tourism".

Recall, after British media announced that a two-week quarantine could be introduced for tourists returning from Croatia, Frankovic wrote to Prime Minister Boris Johnson, asking him to look at Croatia by region, and not as a whole, when making a decision.

"I know that you are well acquainted with this part of Croatia, and that is one of the reasons why I am addressing you personally.

The total number of positive COVID-19 cases from the area of the city of Dubrovnik is three, and currently, over eight thousand tourists are in our city.

We are making every effort at all levels to maintain a favorable epidemiological picture and provide all our guests with a pleasant and safe stay," reads Frankovic's letter to Johnson.

Frankovic pointed out that Dubrovnik is one of the safest European destinations for travel with detailed protocols in all situations, including procedures if the number of infected people starts to grow.

"Taking all the above into account and respecting the fact that Dubrovnik tourism depends on the United Kingdom market, I ask you to look at Croatia and its regions when making decisions, and not just as a whole," concluded Frankovic.

For the latest travel info, bookmark our main travel info article, which is updated daily. 

Read the Croatian Travel Update in your language - now available in 24 languages

Join the Total Croatia Travel INFO Viber community.

July 31, 2020 - PICTURES: Converted island monastery LOPUD-1483 near Dubrovnik offers incredible luxury

Set inside a former 15th-century monastery, LOPUD-1483 is one of the newest luxury dwellings south Dalmatia has to offer. Located on a car-free island, just seven miles off the coast of Dubrovnik, the stunning property has already caught the eye of the international press.


© LOPUD-1483 lies inside a former island monastery and walled fortress

Sunset from the terrace

Available as an exclusive buy-out for groups during peak season (its five suites are available individually later in the year), LOPUD-1483 also features a slightly younger walled fortress which lies adjacent, surrounding manicured gardens and an unobstructed view of the sea, lying just a few metres away.


Head to the rooftop for relaxation or yoga sessions 

It is aimed towards family or other groups who can rent together, such as those organising yoga retreats, small business conferences, weddings and birthday parties The property balances its historic architecture with contemporary interior design and all the fixtures and fittings you'd expect fro a luxury resort.


The property balances its historic architecture with contemporary interior design and all the fixtures and fittings you'd expect 


The courtyard dining area is perfect for weddings or functions 

LOPUD-1483 also holds ample space to display art and this year has a season-long exhibition from a private collection belonging to the Thyssen-Bornemsza family. The resort has the option of private chefs and a complimentary boat service between the island and Dubrovnik for longer-staying guests.


Walls of the historic property are just yards fro the sea 

Rates start at €1,400 per night, including breakfast, with a minimum three-night stay. Buy-outs start at €10,000 per night.

All photos © LOPUD-1483

July 31, 2020 - After British media announced that a two-week quarantine could be introduced for tourists returning from Croatia, Dubrovnik Mayor Mato Frankovic wrote to Prime Minister Boris Johnson, asking him to look at Croatia by region, and not as a whole, when making a decision.

Index.hr reports that in a letter to the British Prime Minister, Mayor Frankovic reminded that the British are traditionally the most numerous guests in Dubrovnik and that a relationship based on friendship has been developed for decades.

"I know that you are well acquainted with this part of Croatia, and that is one of the reasons why I am addressing you personally.

The total number of positive COVID-19 cases from the area of the city of Dubrovnik is three, and currently, over eight thousand tourists are in our city.

We are making every effort at all levels to maintain a favorable epidemiological picture and provide all our guests with a pleasant and safe stay," reads Frankovic's letter to Johnson.

Franković pointed out that Dubrovnik is one of the safest European destinations for travel with detailed protocols in all situations, including procedures if the number of infected people starts to grow.

"Taking all the above into account and respecting the fact that Dubrovnik tourism depends on the United Kingdom market, I ask you to look at Croatia and its regions when making decisions, and not just as a whole," concluded Frankovic.

Frankovic also sent a letter to Prime Minister Johnson to the Croatian Embassy in the United Kingdom and the United Kingdom Embassy in Croatia.

According to British media reports, Croatia, along with Belgium and Luxembourg, could join Spain, for which a two-week quarantine was imposed last weekend.

British authorities are currently keeping a very close eye on the jump in the number of infected people in Belgium, Luxembourg and Croatia. This could deliver a major shock to the Croatian economy, which was hanging onto making up for as many losses as possible during August. The British market is among the most important in all of Europe.

For the latest travel info, bookmark our main travel info article, which is updated daily. 

Read the Croatian Travel Update in your language - now available in 24 languages

Join the Total Croatia Travel INFO Viber community.

July 30, 2020 - 2 Cellos Stjepan Hauser has just released an amazing new performance from Dubrovnik

2 Cellos Stjepan Hauser has just released an amazing new performance from Dubrovnik. The video is the latest in his Alone Together series, which sees the world-famous cellist play music from some of his favourite movie scores.

So far in the series, he has visited places like Pula Arena and Krka Waterfalls. But, this time he has travelled to the south of Croatia to film in the stunning location of Dubrovnik, the Pearl of the Adriatic.

Serving as the most-spectacular location yet, you can see the walled city in all of its summer splendour by checking out the video right here.

2 Cellos Stjepan Hauser in Dubrovnik

July 30, 2020 - Continuing our look at Dubrovnik tourism in the corona era, an interview with Ayhan Basci, General Manager of luxury Rixos Premium Dubrovnik.  

Last week, I accepted a couple of invitations to visit Dubrovnik to see how the Pearl of the Adriatic is faring in the corona era. My first host was the recently renovated luxury Rixos Premium Dubrovnik (you can read my impressions here). 

I took the opportunity to interview the Rixos Premium General Manager, Ayhan Basci, to learn more about the challenges of running a big hotel in these difficult times. 

Season 2020 is the most challenging in recent memory for the hospitality industry all over the world. How are things going?

This was unpredıctable and ıt can happen once ın a lıfe tıme. All types of ındustrıes have been affected, but we are the ones hıt by the pandemic the most. However, we have now completed our renovatıon and kept all staff possıble. As of today, we are receıvıng even more reservatıons. We are stıll thinking posıtıvely that we wıll make a good end of year.

Some hotels in Dubrovnik did not open at all, others cut staff. What has the Rixos approach been?

We are open all year. We wıll always keep doors open. It ıs other group hotels are closıng some of theır propertıes. We do understand that. We didn’t cut staff due to Covıd-19.

How does a general manager of a 310-room hotel prepare for the season this year with so much uncertainty?

I do not have a recommendatıon to anyone at all. Things are changıng on a daily basis, even from the mornıng to the afternoon. I am grateful to all suppliers, staff, and partners that they all understand the sıtuatıon. All partıes have contrıbuted their utmost to make the best of this chaotic situation.

You reopened a few months ago after a 20 million euro facelift. What are the main highlights of the new look?

We wanted to create an atmosphere that was Fresh, Natural, Healthy, Luxury. The maın aım ıs make the guests comfortable and to entertaın them. There are so many new additions with this renovation. 

The hotel has nine multifunctional meeting rooms with an offer of advanced technologies and due to its exceptional location, ie -its close proximity to the city centre of Dubrovnik, in a natural bay overlooking the nearby island of Lokrum, it is "ideal for business guests".It has nine multifunctional meeting rooms with an offer of advanced technologies and due to its exceptional location, ie -its close proximity to the city centre of Dubrovnik, in a natural bay overlooking the nearby island of Lokrum, it is "ideal for business guests".

A novelty in the offer is the Umi Teppanyaki Japanese restaurant, located next to the Libertas Lounge bar, where chefs with rich international experience prepare the most beautiful delicacies of Japanese cuisine with show cooking on the spot in front of the guests. Numerous delicacies are offered to guests on the menus of the Turquoise Restaurant, Sport Bar and Libertas Fish Restaurant located on the beach.

Three things struck me during my stay at Rixos Premium - the greenery, the space, and the wide range of activities. Tell us a little more about all three.

The vısıon of the archıtect was to create Dubrovnık gardens lıke those you can find around the old town or at the old summer resıdences. To connect the guests wıth nature even when they are ınsıde. The hotel ıtself ıs very spacıous, we have the largest lobby and publıc spaces so close to the old town. It gıves you a feelıng of space and freedom. In terms of actıvıtıes, we wıll have smart sport lıve, whıch ıs a weekly program wıth Domagoj Hum, Nordic walking, tennis, table tennis, billiards, qıgong. Besıde that we have aır hockey tables, table soccer, a large fıtness center and an amazıng spa.

Rixos has been active in the Dubrovnik market since 2007. How has that experience been so far?

To be honest, ıt has not always been easy, partıcularly wıth the paperwork etc. Stıll, we made ıt. We have an extraordınary product and we are lookıng forward to be one of the best Croatıan Hotels.

Last year, the biggest word associated with Dubrovnik was 'overtourism', something which is not mentioned in 2020. Is there a silver lining for Dubrovnik with the corona crisis? Time for a reset? What is your vision of the best way forward for Dubrovnik tourism?

I thınk ıt ıs a good tıme for everybody to reset. To fıgure out true values and where Dubrovnık tourısm should go. Absolutely not ın the mass tourısm dırectıon. Definitely, we should lımıt daıly vısıtors from outsıde the cıty. To prevent traffıc jams, so that guests staying ın Dubrovnık can easıly move around. As well, ıt should be a favorable place to lıve for locals. We need to strıve ın the luxury dırectıon but wıth an approprıate offer. Authorıtıes should be receptive new ıdeas. Rıcher guests have dıfferent expectatıons ın terms of offers and services, and we need to create what we do not have at thıs poınt. Thıs cıty ıs very beautıful and hıstorıcally sıgnıfıcant. Let’s not destroy ıt!

Three things about Dubrovnik you recommend to your guests that may not be the first thing in the guidebook?

It ıs hard to have a secret here, as all spots are quıet known. But my recommendatıons would be: Walk up the Srdj mountaın ıf you are a sports lover, vısıt Lokrum for a daytrıp and have a swım ın the seawater lake, followed by a nıce drınk watchıng peacocks and rabbıts runnıng around, visit the old town before ıt gets dark, walk around the narrow streets away from Stradun. Fınd a little bar or café and enjoy the beauty.

And finally, your favourite spot in Dubrovnik, and why?

Of course, thıs hotel and the Lıbertas Lobby Terrace. We are so close to the old town, but ın a quıet bay wıth a unıque vıew to Lokrum and Dance monastery.

Learn more about Rixos Premium Dubrovnik on the official website. 

Paul Bradbury was a guest of Rixos Premium Dubrovnik in July 2020.

July 28, 2020 - The Pearl of the Adriatic is back open for business. Dubrovnik Tourist Board reflect on the recent quarantine by looking into a fascinating world first from the walled city.

Dubrovnik – the Peal of the Adriatic – is back open for business. Its charming alleyways and historic architecture are once again experiencing the footfall of visitors from all over the world. Sun shines down on the beach bars and marina, reflected in every direction by the gentle waves of its turquoise seas. And there's never been a better time to visit.

Like the rest of Croatia, the city was on lockdown for several months in response to COVID-19. Now, Dubrovnik has woken from its sleep. But, visitor numbers are smaller than ever. It's doubtful you'll ever get such a unique opportunity to calmly take in the air from the city walls or soak up the relaxed atmosphere on the limestone walkway of Stradun than in summer 2020.

Dubrovnik's reawakening has provided Dubrovnik Tourist Board the perfect opportunity to reflect on the recent lockdown and shed light on a small segment of the walled city's fascinating history. For this was not the first time Dubrovnik has closed its gates to visitors. This is the city where quarantine was invented.

This new video, filmed in the heart of the former independent city-state, offers an insight into the history of quarantine from the place that invented it. Quarantine was first implemented in 1377 as a drastic response to recurring rounds of the Black Death which devastated Dubrovnik's population numbers over the preceding three decades. As a major port of the Mediterranean, the city struggled more than most to keep the disease away. But, the radical plan worked and became the template for every subsequent action of quarantine.

Learn more by checking out the video, or better still, get yourself down to Dubrovnik this summer and find out all about the city for yourself.

July 30, 2020 - A visit to Dubrvonik's answer to escaping the crowds - the idyllic and VERY clean island of Lokrum. 

Dubrovnik at the moment is perfect. The tourism slowdown due to coronavirus is certainly severely affecting the wallets of the hospitality industry, but the quality of life for locals and the tourism experience for visitors to the Pearl of the Adriatic has been severely enhanced.

 An early morning stroll into the old town last week - I almost had the place to myself. 

And a similar story on the most famous and exclusive street of them all - Stradun. 

My destination was just the other side of the famous UNESCO walls, to the old harbour, where a 50-year-old beautifully restored wooden boat was waiting with  Ivica Grilec, Director of the Lokrum Nature Reserve. 

Ivica had kindly agreed to show me around the island he clearly loved deeply - that much became obvious within a minute of meeting him. Croatian tourism is full of officials for whom it is just a job. From the moment Ivica started explaining about the work and concept of the beautiful wooden boats that serviced the 10-minute ride to Lokrum from the Old Town, I knew I was in for a special tour. And so it proved.  

How about this for a boat departure, as the old town disappeared slowly behind us, as Zrinka glided through the turquoise waters.  

Lokrum is a popular escape for the locals from the summer crowds in the city. Indeed, it is the third most popular attraction, after the city walls and the cable car to Mount Srdj.  

With plenty of Instagram moments on the way, if that is your thing.  

Away from the city, in a protected bay, we reached our destination, about as far from the bustle of Dubrovnik as one could imagine.  As I wrote recently after my stay on the island of Kolocep, there are a number of fabulous places just 30 minutes from Dubrovnik, but a world away. Lokrum is close to the top of that list. 

The first impression, apart from the nature and tranquillity was one of order and cleanliness. In 18 years of living in this beautiful country, this was the first island I had visited which had absolutely no trash whatsoever. None. Ivica told me that they had invested heavily in the clean-up. The results are spectacular. 

 The main building on Lokrum is the Benedictine Monastery, which dates back to the 11th century. The Benedictines engaged in agriculture and farmed the fertile Lokrum land, producing wine, olives and olive oil, fruit, vegetables and ornamental plants.

 Much of the monastery remains today, despite the passage of time and the extensive damage down in the major 1667 earthquake. This includes the 12/13th century Romanesque-Gothic basilica, as well as the 'new' Gothic-Renaissance monastery on the south side in the 15/16th century. 

And all around amazing greenery. The botanical gardens have been fighting a losing battle with the numerous rabbits which roam freely on Lokrum. That situation has been brought under control in the last two years, and the botanical gardens are now starting to flourish. 

But the monastery has some rather unexpected secrets inside...  

The Iron Throne! Lokrum was an important Game of Thrones filming location, and the island welcomes many tourists each year who want to see the location and the throne.  

And in the basement, something even more unusual - an exhibition dedicated to King Richard the Lionheart, who was allegedly shipwrecked here in 1192 on his way home from The Crusades. He vowed to build two churches of thanks if he survived, one in England and one on Lokrum. This church was eventually built in Dubrovnik after an official request.  

And a modern-day interpretation of the Curse of Lokrum. In 1798, after the island was sold, the Benedictines were forced out. As they left, they held torches and put a curse on the island, a curse that will only be lifted when that candle wax is collected and made into candles once more.  

The rabbits may be famous on Lokrum, but this is also an island of elegant peacocks.  

Ivica Grelic, a man with Lokrum in his heart.  

It was time for Phase 2 of the tour, and my first ride in an official Croatian firefighter vehicle. And they don't come much cooler than this! 

A short video clip of part of our tour to give you an idea of just how ordered everything is on this, an island with no cars.  

I was impressed at how well sign-posted everything was for hikers, of which there were several. Our heroic firefighting chauffeur navigated the narrow roads perfectly until we reached the top of the island and the forbidding fortress at the top.  

The Lokrum fire fighters do an awesome job. Apart from providing outstanding views like the one above, standing on top of their huge water tank close to the top of the island, water hydrants are everywhere. There are five firemen by day, with two sleeping overnight. Their organisation is typical of what I found on Lokrum - a fantastic island of natural beauty shaped by a little human order and planning.  

The view down to the monastery from the fortress at the top. It was hot for hiking, but I can imagine this to be a very rewarding hike in cooler temperatures. 

A water tank with a view.  

The tour continued with a firefighter buggy transfer to the Lokrum Lazerat, the original quarantine place on the island. Look how straight they built the stone walls in the 16th century. 

Dubrovnik became the first state in the world to officially sanction quarantine facilities in 1377 after the first case of the Black Plague arrived on the island of Sipan. The first facilities were set up in Cavtat, followed soon by two islands not far from Lokrum. As with tourism in the current pandemic, Dubrovnik wanted to continue to trade while minimising risk. 

My new guide Marija explained that the Dubrovnik Senate made the decision to extend the quarantine facilities to Lokrum in 1534, after which a vast complex went under construction, a square fortress 4 metres high with walls 100 metres long. 

There were 150 rooms built into the walls, and you can see (from right to left) the fireplace, the air ventilation, and the toilet for one particular room. And somewhat ironically, a warning to keep your social distance in 2020 in case you might catch something.  

The complex was never finished after they realised that it could prove to be a launching pad on Dubrovnik if Lokrum ever got into enemy hands. Some of the stone was removed and used in the famous city walls. The most enchanting thing that remains of the Lokrum Lazerat is the 400-year-old olive grove which was started by the Beneditines.  

The first two quarantine islands after Cavtat in 1377.  

A truly delightful spot, and one of the nice things I learned is that Dubrovnik schoolchildren visit often to learn more about the history, flora and fauna, but also to conduct occasional classes in this natural paradise.  

Just 10 minutes by boat from Dubrovnik Old Town.  

We finished the tour with a drink by the Dead Sea - not perhaps as famous as its Middle Eastern counterpart, but a cool place to swim and actually part of the Adriatic and once a cave. An ideal spot if you want to have a drink and relax while the kids splash around.  

And, right on cue, the majestic Zrinski appeared to take us back to the real world. Lokrum, a magical place devoid of trash. 

To learn more of the Lokrum Nature Reserve, visit the official website. 

July 26, 2020 - How to combine easy access to the historic old town of Dubrovnik with the timeless beauty and the relaxed nature of the true Dalmatian lifestyle? An enchanting visit to the island of Kolocep, courtesy of the hospitality of TUI BLUE Kalamota Island Resort. 

There are many perceptions about Dubrovnik, also known as the Pearl of the Adriatic by some, more recently as Kings Landing by others. It is undoubtedly beautiful, a fiercely independent historic stone walled UNESCO World Heritage Site jutting out into the Adriatic. A city which has more personality, culture and history than entire countries. 

But a city which these days is perceived as too crowded in summer, expensive, and one where there is not that much to do once the main sites have been visited. A 2-3 day destination.

I decided to visit Dubrovnik this week to see for myself how this majestic destination is coping in the corona era, and to see what kind of destination it is in this most unusual tourism season. After yesterday's look at the luxury option of Rixos Premium Dubrovnik, time for a complete change of gear, as the transfer team from TUI BLUE Kalamota Island Resort arrived at the hotel reception to take me to their hotel on the island of Kolocep. Along with Lopud and Sipan, Kolocep is the closest of the three Elafiti islands which lie just a short ferry ride from the historic city. 

As an adopted island boy after 13 years on Hvar, I find that every Croatian island I visit has a unique feel to it, and I was looking forward to discovering what Kolocep had to offer on this, my first visit to Elafiti. 

I knew little about the island and deliberately did not research it before arriving, as I wanted to discover it properly. I knew only that there were no cars on the island and it was the last inhabited island in Croatia to the south. And as soon as I mentioned I was going there in Dubrovnik, I realised I was not even sure I was calling it by the right name. 

"Ah, Kalamota is really beautiful and relaxng. You will have an excellent time."

Kalamota? Kalamota, I quickly learned, is the local name for the island, whose origin is in the island's fishing tradition. And it is much more common to hear it called Kalamota than Kolocep (pronounced 'Kolochep'). But locals refer to both. 

It mattered not - look at those enticing waters as we approached. This was going to be quite a stay.  

Although there are no cars on Kalamota, there are roads - narrow ones - and golf carts. The welcoming committee was awaiting my arrival, and we were soon on our way. 

"We have to go very slowly here," explained General Manager Ivo, "for there are six little kids playing." 

And so there were. 

I liked that. This was a community island, where everyone was looking out for the other. 

And just 30 minutes by regular ferry - four times a day in season - from the port of Dubrovnik in Gruz.  

 There were some rarities - a sandy beach in front of the hotel, a reasonably rare sight in Croatia. 

And something even rarer in the hotel grounds - a cat hotel, put together by the hotel to keep the cats away from the hotel, as well as a place that guests could come to feed them. 

A nice touch, and nice touches were everywhere on Kalamota. I was already in zen mode and I had only been here 10 minutes.  

And so the sun set on another perfect day in Dalmatia. Only this time, I had a view like this, a view I posted on Facebook with the words - If you don't hear from me for 3 months, I will be here.

And a slight moment of panic set in. How would I possibly be able to tear myself away from this idyll for a long drive back to Varazdin in two days?

But that was a concern for later, for it was time to enjoy the present and the truly fabulous views, comprehensive buffet and barbecue, with some relaxing live music provided by the hotel. 

I was amazed that it was 40% full in these challenging times, with Dubrovnik essentially a flights only destination. Even more so when I learned that its almost exclusive client is part-owner TUI UK. TUI UK is not sending anyone to Croatia this summer, so full credit to the Kalamota team to be able to reorientate and get any guests at all. Even more so when I learned that the average stay in the hotel so far is an astonishing 8.5 days. But then, how could you possibly think of leaving this paradise once you enter? And several guests had already prolonged their stay. 

One nice touch at the end of dinner is that the (very talented) singers go from table to table, serenading each guest with a song from their own country. 

A lovely start to island life, and I went to bed in good cheer, to the soothing tunes of the abundant cicadas.  

The breakfast view. Nothing more to add.  

GM Ivo, a man with over 30 years experience in tourism in Dubrovnik, was fast developing into my favourite new best friend, and he suggested an island tour. An island tour on an island with no cars - this should be interesting. 

I had no idea just how interesting it was going to be, as my golf cart and chauffeur awaited. 

A carefree start to the day, the wind in my hair (if I had any hair) and we were off, passing the sandy beach initially, and greeting the friendly locals as we passed.  

The level of maintenance for an island with no cars is INCREDIBLE - the stone walls which lined most of the route were painstakingly and very professionally erected. It was so neat and tidy, like nothing I had experienced on other islands. I was hooked - what a way to travel.  

And then the surprises started.  We stopped at a church. There are 15 on Kalamota, one for every 8 inhabitants these days. 

"Let me show you inside the parish museum," said my excellent guide. I wasn't expecting much, but then THIS, above. 

The churches on Kolocep are sensational. What was that Bible quote - it is easier for a camel to pass through the eye of a needle than enter the Kingdom of Heaven? 

I have never seen a church door that narrow. Thankfully, we didn't have the key, or we may have had a fat, pink blogger calling the emergency services to be set free .They must have drunk less beer in the 10th century.  

The Church of St Nikola was my favourite without a doubt, with a very impressive graveyard, whose permanent inhabitants had lived there for centuries.  

Not all churches were in such a good state of repair, but there were others which also dated back 1000 years.  

And they were all beautiful in their own way, including this one on the descent to Donje Celo, the second of two settlements on the island. 

The Church of St. Antun, which is still used every Sunday.   

Tourism of course is about the local experience, meeting local people, learning their ways and trying their cuisine. I will write a lot more about these two fabulous ladies in due course, as their tireless work to grow and produce local products - and they have a VERY impressive range - was one of the most enjoyable parts of the tour. A full article on the fabulous OPG Matijevic coming shortly. 

Including an extensive tour of their fields, which I can imagine is a fascinating part of the tour for those of us who come from cultures where food grows in supermarkets.  

Kalamota is a great hiking destination, and the hiking trails are well marked-out. The resident fire brigade keeps paths clear, and the island is very, very tidy and well looked after. And you need to catch your breath, check out a view like this one. They are everywhere.  

Another village, another sandy bay for swimming. Idyllic for young families.  

Just 30 minutes from Dubrovnik by ferry. Enjoy the big city perhaps twice a week, then chill. The perfect combination. Many locals do the same.  

There may be no cars, but that doesn't mean there are no traffic jams. Rush hour on Kalamota.  

And the car park at Donje Celo was almost full as we arrived.  

All good things come to an end, and I invite you to join me on the last minutes of the tour, as we descend back to Gornje Celo and the hotel, whence we had come. Absolutely delightful.  

More characters. Despite being a community of just 120 people, Kalamota has a school with just two pupils, a resident doctor with surgery, and a fire station. 

I REALLY wanted to meet the teacher, and she kindly agreed to come to our next destination, Villa Rose.  

What a setting to interview the teacher (which will also be a separate article in the coming days). 

While researching for this article, I came across a very rare TCN article indeed - in fact I think it might be unique. TCN's editor Lauren is an amazing human, 20 times more capable than I, but one thing I have never see her do is write about a restaurant or food. It is just not her thing. 

But Kalamota is a special place which makes people do things they might otherwise not - here is Lauren on Villa Rose (Villa Ruza) was back in 2016 when she was a Dubrovnik resident - Villa Ruza, Kolocep's Quiet Escape.

There were 57 foreign weddings here last year alone - I wonder why.  

Just 30 minutes from Dubrovnik's port by ferry.  

And yet a world away.  

One of my favourite moments of this wonderful stay, was new BFF Ivo expressive his love for the Jadrolinija ferry, which is more than 50 years old. As precise as a Swiss watch and Japanese train, this ferry is the lifeline for the island. It plies its trade four times a day from Dubrovnik to the three Elafiti islands, and it is never late.  

Locals know exactly what time is it when they look up and see the ferry arriving and departing. 

Perhaps this is why guest are staying longer here - for Kalamota is timeless, and it is easy to get lost in the laganini lifestyle.   

"Why do we need music?" asked Ivo. "We have our music from the sea and the trees."

There was time for a leisurely siesta before dinner at Villa Ruza, and a chance to capture the waves hitting the sandy beach in front of the hotel as we wandered over for dinner.

In time to watch the sunset.  

So we did.

For quite some time. 

And we didn't get bored. 

Did I mention this is just 30 minutes from the port of Dubrovnik, but a world away? 

"We decided to order dinner for you," announced Ivo. After some delicious prsut and cheese, followed by octopus salad and scampi washed down with the local Dubrovacka Malvazija, time for the main course - and a burning and very baked fish was presented in front of me.  

A sea-bream of 2 kilos, wrapped and baked in no less than THREE kilos of salt and egg white, then baked before being set on fire for show. 

But that was just the start. Now see how the salt is removed and the fish served. And yes, it was well worth the wait. 

Do you have to stay in Dubrovnik to enjoy the Pearl of the Adriatic? Absolutely not. 

There are some real gems very close by which offer the perfect combination of culture and sightseeing on demand, against a backdrop of an idyllic Dalmatian lifestyle experience. Kalamota is right up there with the best of them. 

To learn more about the island of Kolocep, visit the hotel website. 

Paul Bradbury was an invited guest of TUI BLUE Kalamota Island Resort in July 2020.

July 25, 2020 - Rixos Premium Dubrovnik has reopened after a 20 million euro upgrade, the perfect viewpoint to explore luxury Dubrovnik tourism in the corona era. 

Stone and the waves.

The perfect end to the longest day. 

The lapping of the waves against the rocks below, as majestic Mount Srdj oversaw all. I had made it. 

It was always going to be an ambitious itinerary. Leaving Varazdin in the morning, destination Zagreb for two meetings. then continuing the journey to get the kids on the 16:30 catamaran to Jelsa, two more meetings, then on to Dubrovnik, a destination that I was very keen to visit this summer to see how the Pearl of the Adriatic looked during the corona era. 

I need not have worried. My final destination, having crossed most of Croatia in a day, was the luxury Rixos Premium Dubrovnik, who had invited me to stay to sample life in peak season Dubrovnik during the corona era. 

I could not have hoped for a better host. 

Arriving exhausted and famished at 22:40, I enquired about the remote possibility of a restaurant being open, to be greeted with a smile and escort to the beach bar where the kitchen had closed but they would find something for me to eat. As I waited for the lamb chops by the sea with the first beer of the day, I lost myself in the gentle breeze, the stone walls, those addictive waves. Paradise.

The view promised to be special in the morning if the evening vista was anything to go by, and so it proved. 

Late to bed, early to rise, for I had a 07:55 appointment at the old harbour for a guided tour of Lokrum, that enchanted island which is the perfect summer escape from the crowds in an average Dubrovnik summer. 

(Video of boat departure to the island of Lokrum from the old harbour in Dubrovnik Old Town, the perfect activity after breakfast)

This was far from an average Dubrovnik summer, I mused, as I wandered into the old town to experience a side of Dubrovnik that I - and most tourists - had not seen before. A city at the height of summer which was owned by the locals, whose daily habits - grocery shopping, morning coffee - were what caught the eye, rather than a mass of tourists. 

But all that was to come later, for first I bade temporary farewell to my delightful room and VERY comfy bed, before heading down to breakfast. 

The layout of the room was like none I had seen in my limited experience in luxury hotels, and it had the effect of turning it into a four-room affair. Firstly the desk at the head of the bed, then the welcoming double bed with television perched at the end. After that, two armchairs to admire the terrace and the view. And beyond that, the very spacious terrace itself, complete with table to sit and sun loungers to lounge. All that would have to wait, for first we had to ensure enough time for the most important meal of the day before my Lokrum tour - breakfast. 

I was curious to see how hotels would handle the buffet breakfast in the corona era with all social distancing requirements, and the Rixos Premium solution was genius indeed. Having ordered a coffee and orange juice, before settling on the eggs benedict, I was somewhat surprised to see the waitress return with a platter of food, then plates of food, then more plates. Meet the socially distanced buffet breakfast, Rixos style. 

Not that it was crowded. Not only was occupancy understandably down from the peak season highs of previous mid-Julys, but the overriding first impression one gets at Rixos Premium is one of space. The hotel is massive, the main reception rooms both spacious and green. The hotel only reopened on June 16 after a 20 million euro renovation, a renovation which lasted a little more than eight months in total, contains the ''signature'' of the famous hotel interior designer Ina Rinderknecht - the winner of numerous awards for luxury hotels she designed in Europe, in London, Zurich, Basel, and Dublin, as well as across the Atlantic over in California.

And the subtle details of Dubrovnik are everywhere... 

From the famous Dubrovnik rozeta in some table designs... 

To its picturesque arches... 

To the enticing photos of the old town and the treasures that await in this tastefully arranged photo collection on the walk through the corridor to the beach bar. 

Space everywhere. Even if the hotel had been completely full, I doubt that social distancing would be a challenge. 

Breakfast and the subsequent tour of the hotel with General Manager Ayhan Basci on the second morning was a fascinating affair. 

These are unprecedented times for the hospitality industry, and I was curious to see how the Rixos management was handling the crisis. My. Basci has kindly agreed to a full interview with TCN on that and Dubrovnik tourism, which we will publish shortly, but I was impressed that no staff have been laid off, despite the reduced guest traffic. 

And the tour showed that this was more than just a posh hotel, one whose space has been put to maximum use for the multiple purposes of its guests, with great diversity, with everything a short walk away. 

This sense of diversity was perhaps best illustrated as we headed towards the beach bar. But first, we went to the left and the indoor pool, situated next to a fully stocked gym. 

Then a door to the right, into a world of aromatic silence, where one could choose from no less than 110 types of tea as one entered the wellness zone. 

A zone which housed an enviable selection of sauna options. I have my eye next time on the Turkish bath to start... 

... then the Igloo to cool offf... 

... ending with a light sleep and complete detox in the salt room. 

 And then, through another door from that feeling of complete zen, another Rixos world and experience. The beach bar area and outdoor pool, a totally chilled zone, but from a different aspect than the saunas.  

A zone where your aspiring DJs were rehearsing their tunes. 

A beach bar area with the one thing that was omnipresent at Rixos - space. 

It was space which was put to good use, with little extras for the family that you do not find in every hotel - a dedicated billiards room, for example. 

As with the kids activities, so too with the adults. Looking to sneak away to catch your favourite sports game? Head to the Sports Bar. 

Or if you are looking to hold a business meeting, catch up with friends over a Turkish coffee (the owners are Turkish, so they know a thing or two about coffee), or just chill and enjoy the greenery all around, the Libertas Lobby and Terrace Bar is a popular spot. 

Want to put your name on some prime dry-aged steaks for your next visit? Reserve your piece here. 

Or head on out to the Umi Teppanyaki Japanese restaurant out on the terrace and watch your chef rustle up some of Japan's very finest before your very eyes. 

Perhaps you can catch sight from your terrace over morning coffee of your chef picking the herbs for your lunch from the Chef's Garden.

In a meeting with Mayor of Dubrovnik Mato Frankovic on the second day, the mayor told me that although the tourist numbers were obviously well down on previous years, the one encouraging factor was the number of luxury guests who were taking this unique opportunity to enjoy Dubrovnik without the crowds, spending accordingly. 

Dubrovnik in peak season has not been this incredible in the 18 years I have lived in Croatia, and it arguably will never be again. So I advise you to take the unique opportunity that is the present situation, and carpe diem. 

Stone and waves. Without the crowds. 

And the view is just a small part of the Rixos luxury on offer. 

To learn more about Rixos Premium Dubrovnik, visit the official website.  

For the latest news from Dubrovnik, follow the dedicated TCN section. 

Paul Bradbury was an invited guest of Rixos Premium Dubrovnik in July 2020.