July 18, 2022 - Brac island already has a solid reputation and may not need more advertising, but for those curious who want to see the island beyond Zlatni rat (Golden horn), here are some must-see destinations.

Brac island is the highest and third largest among the more than 1,000 Croatian islands, and it is thanks to this vast territory that it has numerous and varied destinations to visit. While it is true that Brac island has become popular in recent years thanks to the highly recognizable Zlatni Rat in Bol, it would be unfair to reduce such an island to just one beach. It could be said without hesitation that Brac island has something for everyone, from olive oil to adventure sports. The island has spectacular hiking trails, interesting towns both on its coast and inland, and even a museum dedicated exclusively to olive oil.

Due to its proximity to the Croatian mainland, specifically to the City of Split, Brac island is easily reachable by ferries and catamarans, as well as with small boats that offer daily tours. The main ports of the island are Supetar (from Split), Milna (from Split), Bol (from Split and Dubrovnik), and Sumartin (from Makarska). If you plan to visit Brac island via any of these ports, consider checking out these destinations.

Supetar

If you find yourself vacationing in Split, especially in the south of the city, it is difficult not to recognize Supetar from a distance. It is undoubtedly the best reachable destination from the Dalmatian city due to the high frequency of ferries that take you to Supetar from the port of Split. However, this does not stop it from being a town that deserves all your attention. Supetar has many cultural events, and numerous beaches to choose from. It also serves as a starting point for various themed trails on the island, including Via Brattia, which you can learn more about here.

Photo: Mario Romulić

Sutivan

Just 13 minutes by car from Supetar, Sutivan lies on the northwest coast of the island of Brač. It is a small picturesque destination with a Mediterranean vibe and beautiful pebble beaches stretching west. Numerous cultural landmarks, various events, and sports activities make it a good place for a pleasant vacation. Despite having its fair share of beaches, another great way to spend your time in Sutivan is learning about its diverse religious heritage, by visiting St. Rocco's Church or St. John's Church. Likewise, Sutivan is a friendly town for bicycles, in addition to having trails both by land and also for diving.

Image: Sutivan Tourist Board

Splitska

East of Supetar is Splitska, just a 9-minute drive away. Splitska is a settlement developed in the 16th century, after the foundation in the 13th century was destroyed by pirates from Omiš.  Historically, the stone of Brač was transported from the port of Splitska, which was used to build Diocletian's Palace in Split. Splitska is a small and quiet place, ideal for families and travelers looking for a peaceful vacation. 

Photo: Mario Romulić

Postira

Postira, located 7 minutes east of Splitska, is a town founded in the 16th century and today has a great tourist offer that successfully unites its agricultural and fishing traditions. In addition to having a wide variety of beaches and accommodations, Postira definitely stands out for its countless activities to do, since Postira is home to the World Olive Picking Championship. Yes, you heard it right. During the fall, in the olive picking season, teams made up of people from all over the world gather in Postira to compete against each other to see who picks the most olives. You can learn more here.

Image: Postira Tourist Board

Pučišća

This list is of destinations that you cannot miss, but there are some destinations that you simply cannot miss. For me, one of those destinations is Pučišća, on the northeast coast of Brač. Pučšića is the largest settlement on the island of Brač, and is known not only for its picturesque buildings but also for the stonemasonry tradition of its famous school, the best examples of which are erected throughout the town, visible also in its beautiful harbor. Pučšića is an excellent destination to spend relaxing days, where you can enjoy beautiful beaches, spectacular local food and top quality olive oil.

Photo: Mario Romulić

Povlja

This picturesque village exudes peace and quiet and is ideal for a vacation away from the hustle and bustle of the larger tourist destinations on the island. Povlja is surrounded by numerous bays, ideal for enjoying the abundant sun and crystal clear sea. Don't forget to visit one of the most spacious sacred buildings of its kind in Croatia, an early Christian basilica with a baptistery from the 6th century. Two legends are associated with Povlja. It is believed that St. Jelena, the mother of Emperor Constantine the Great, was originally from Brač and was taken to Constantinople via Povalje. Another legend says that St. Ivan, who is the patron saint of the place, walked on the sea and drove away the plague with his sermons.

Photo: Mario Romulić

Pražnica

Who says that the only destinations worth visiting on Brač are on its coast? Being the highest island in Croatia is no surprise that its inland hides incredible villages with a lot of history. One of them is Pražnica, a small medieval town, 7 km south of Pučišća. Surrounded by numerous pastures, livestock farming has developed in the village, and rural tourism is also developing nowadays. Many visitors enjoy traditional Brač delicacies here, such as the famous Brač cheese, lamb on a spit, homemade olive oil, and high-quality Brač wines.

Photo: kruno/Flickr

Nerežišća

Fifteen minutes west of Pražnica, also inland on the island of Brač, the village of Nerežišća is located. As a district, Nerežišća comprises much of the interior of the island of Brač, as well as part of the southern coast of the island. Nerežišća is one of the smaller settlements on Brač, with a population of less than 1,000, but was once the capital of the island, built inland rather than on the coast as protection from pirates who sailed long ago. Nerežišća is an ideal destination to feel closely the rural life on the island, without being far from the paradisiacal beaches. An unmissable landmark is a chapel with a bonsai, located in the center of town.

Photo: Argo Navis/Wikimedia Commons

Sumartin

Located on the easternmost point of the island of Brač, Sumartin is an increasingly popular tourist destination. It is also the youngest settlement on the island, which was founded by settlers from the mainland in the 17th century fleeing the Turkish invaders. Aside from its popular and beautiful beaches, you'll find numerous coves and hidden beaches that can only be reached by boat. Fans of active tourism will surely enjoy exploring the hiking and biking trails that lead through ancient olive groves and vineyards, offering unique Mediterranean scenes. Sumartin is a popular destination not only for those already on the island of Brač, but also for those in the Makarska Riviera, as both towns are directly connected by a ferry line.

Image: Selca Tourist Board

Milna

Milna, located on the western tip of the island of Brač, is perhaps one of the most popular destinations, not only due to its connection by catamaran from the port of Split but also because it is a beautifully hidden bay with numerous coves and beaches, protected of storms in the region. With an identity strongly marked by its fishing and sailing traditions, Milna is today a popular destination for tourists during the summer season. If you are looking for spectacular events, you will not want to miss the Mrduja Tug of War, an event that takes place every last Saturday of July, where the inhabitants and guests of the islands of Brač and Šolta compete to define who owns the islet of Mrduja. Learn more here.

Photo: Mario Romulić

Bol

Bol, what else can be said about this destination that is not already known? Well, believe it or not, a lot. Known worldwide for its spectacular and beautiful beach, Zlatni Rat, Bol has an endless offer of experiences for all types of visitors. Being the oldest settlement on the coast of the island of Brač, the heritage that can be found in the village is a matter of wonder for those history buffs. Likewise, its beaches are praised by windsurfers and kitesurfers alike. Bol is located on the southern coast of the island and is reachable not only from Split and Dubrovnik but also for those looking to do a bit of island hopping, with the possibility of traveling from Hvar as well.

Photo: Mario Romulić

Murvica

Also on the south coast of the island of Brač, 6 kilometers west of Bol, our last unmissable destination is located: Murvica. Although it contrasts with other destinations mentioned in this list, due to its small size (Murvica has a population of just over 20 inhabitants), it is absolutely worth being included in your itinerary, since you will not only find beautiful beaches, but also the Dragon's Cave, whose incredible stone carvings have never been properly explained. Zoran, a very enthusiastic local guide, provides an outstanding experience.

Photo: Mario Romulić

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15 June 2021 - One TCN intern visited Brač three times and learned first-hand about hospitality, safety, and entertainment on the island. Even though these stories are unlikely reproducible, it shows a special atmosphere of the island where you can be a most unprepared and careless tourist and leave your fun up to islanders. A look at three Brač trips!

1. Supetar and Sumartin: before the tourist season

A story to tell about Brac is olives, olives, olives... Along the 40 km from Supetar, the ferry port, and administrative center, to the most eastern town of Sumartin. From time to time, olive trees are changed by other species, but mostly a road view looks really monochrome. The good news is that olive is an evergreen plant, therefore you can come on Brac out of the tourist season.

The bad news is monoculture. That is probably due to historical tradition. People say that during the Venetian rule on Brac no young man was allowed to marry until he had planted a hundred olive trees. Maybe, it also relates to a lack of knowledge about other plants. Some few people in Split can recognize Phillyrea (mock privet) trees, although it is also from the Oleaceae family, a close relative of the olive. A few know how an olive flower looks like while everyone cares only about olive oil. An olive flower is small and appears early. You can see it if you come to Brac from the end of April till the beginning of June.

A possible reason for the prevalence of olives there is also unpretentiousness. Why plant grapes to constantly tinker with them when you can plant olive trees and don't bother either yourself or your descendants within the next 400 years? In sum, islanders have more time to care about their guests when they care less about the garden! They do care as I've learned from my own experience coming well before the start of the season. There were barely any tourists and no young people on the streets.

There are kindergartens and schools on Brac, but to continue studying, you have to go to the mainland. Unless you've decided to become a stonemason. There is a known school of stonemasons in Pucisca. Besides olives, Brac stone is another export brand of the island. Diocletian's Palace in Split, the most beautiful churches in Croatia, the parliament buildings of Austria and Hungary, and the White House in Washington DC are made of this stone. Returning down to earth it seemed to me that sculpture is quite a popular hobby among the locals, therefore you easily notice interesting sculpting along the roads in villages like Selca and Povlja.

There are no faculties or universities on Brac. Students who left to study on the mainland unlikely to come during the winter season as well young tourists seeking a beach party paradise on Brac Bol in summer. Thus, I was going to spend my weekend walking and sightseeing alone. I took a bus from Supetar to Sumartin and went other distances between the villages by foot, 24 km in a day. However, I was most impressed by the social kind of entertainment - a village party in Sumartin on Saturday evening. I had done 24 km and wanted to drop dead on my bed for a few hours, but the hostel owner's daughter (of my age) who met me had another plan.  

We have a party up the street. You can come with me. I invite you! - No, thank you. I've walked 24 km. I'm bloody tired, I want to have a rest. Sure, I understand. You need to have a rest...But actually, you know, we are young, we don't need much rest, so, you can go to a party with me! - OK! [I didn't have the energy to argue]

The party was devoted to the end of construction of the ground floor of a house that one young guy from the village built. Village friends had slaughtered and roasted a lamb, they brought homemade wine and olive oil. I felt in the first few minutes my visit was not in vain. 

Organised 'village tours' are not popular among youth, it usually lacks true authenticity that you can meet as an independent tourist. It was the very case for me. I met fishermen, builders who speak only Croatian, students from Split (they speak English). Naturally, they played Balkan turbo-folk music. They were not good at dancing, so when guys didn't know what to do during a 'groovy' song, they grabbed heavy objects (a poker, a barrel, etc.) and began to lift them. Meanwhile, girls did sit-ups crazy fast! 

I was going to give a dance workshop and climbed up on the table, but two girls jumped in there after me and started a conversation. They literally attacked me with questions, therefore we stood on the table for an hour just chatting. Perhaps, we would never have such a chance at a nightclub party! A chance to meet at the village party a fan of the Russian tv-series 'Kitchen' ('Kuhinja') was even less, but Eni from Brac was flattering a lot to my Russian background. 

The most epic moment happened to me when a son of the owners of the house where we had a party - the biggest house in Sumartin, only the church is higher, - was showing me everything he owned: a house, a gazebo, a grill terrace, a bar, a garden, swimming pools, garages, etc. Let's say, a sightseeing tour accompanied by nice complaints. "When I go somewhere with friends, I pay for everybody... When I show my parents anything I like, they buy it immediately for me... It's so hard to be independent if your parents are rich..." Top complaints, huh? I really had top entertainment that night! Finally, it happens amid a contrast: while some people on Brac apply for EU funds for rural areas development, others suffer from a family abundance. It's a pity and simultaneously a good topic for reflection when you travel before the tourist season.

2. Sutivan and Milna: waiting for a miracle

My second trip to the island of Brac occurred in April. At this time islanders start slowly preparing for the season. A lot of places are still closed, but the atmosphere becomes more welcoming and bracing. Largely, I would say it's a good direction on Brac regardless of the season.

A little derogation about the 'Su' towns. Su is Latin 'Sv', two letters have a similarity in writing and pronouncing. Sv is short for 'Sveti' (Saint in Croatian). In this way, Supetar is Sveti Petar, Saint Peter's town, Sutivan is Sveti Ivan, Saint Ivan's town, etc. I've already seen Supetar, ferry port, thus I just did a loop for my friend come from Split for the first time. Riva, St. Peter's church, Jobanova Street where you can easily think that Croatia is the most beautiful country in the world - that is Supetar. At the west exit from the city, we found a firehouse. I'm interested in fire departments on islands because they are voluntary, not municipal. Their volunteer showed us an old fire truck donated by Great Britain. When he learned I'm from Russia, he said that his neighbors here are Russian too. A wife lived for 5 years during the Chechen war in the 1990s. A husband is a healthy Russian man, he can drink a liter and a half of vodka. Great job!

We travelled from Supetar to Sutivan on foot. Further movements around the island were planned by bus. Waiting for the bus to Milna I put things from my bag at the bus stop. "Get up! Let's go! Don't forget your phone!" my friend commanded. I answered "No way! I would rather forget my own hand."

Actually, I paid attention in Milna and noticed a lot of yacht tours on Dalmatian islands do stop on Brac in Milna bay. I liked Milna as soon as the bus began to approach it on the serpentine road. 

On the waterfront (literally 'first line' by the sea) there is an abandoned multi-storey house. I don't know what happened there, but the holes in the ceiling/ floor look terrible. A blockage on the stairs between the first and second floor doesn't let to climb up higher. Anyway, I would not recommend entering a house for safety's sake. In a corridor on the first floor, we found a nice retro 'archive'. A poster inviting for the Final concert of the 3-rd Concert-Opera Seminar in Milna on August 21, 1981, hangs in my room in Split. 

Waiting for a bus back to Supetar we were chatting with my friend at the bus stop. The topic was an exes' birthday: to congratulate or not. I implore you: Do not discuss such topics at the bus stops! When the bus came, I was lost in thought and... I forgot my smartphone at the bus stop. I realized it in a couple of minutes on the bus. But the bus, apparently, goes faster than it seems. I asked a driver to stop. I'd prefer to ask him to turn back to Milna, but we were on the serpentine road. We went 52 min down the serpentine on foot.

Somehow I was sure my phone was still there at the bus stop. It wasn't there! We asked in a nearby cafe - no one knew. We tried another cafe - it was closed. We asked men working at the marina opposite the bus stop - they were really enthusiastic to help me. They actually proved my hypothesis that everyone knows everyone on the island and it's very safe on the island. Men remembered their friend was walking with the children near the bus stop. Through 2-3 contacts we found his number. Unfortunately, he didn't answer the phone. Almost desperate I wandered back to the bus stop looking around.

A group of people came towards me. "I have nothing to lose," I thought and came to ask them about the phone. And then a woman coming in the front took my phone out from her purse! It was pure luck, because her company was moving to the parking place behind the bus stop to leave Milna. Then we tried our luck again, because we got off the last bus to Supetar. We've overcome the serpentine road before we succeded to flag cars down. One senior man gave us a ride to a crossroad, Supetar was out of his way. Then two young men drove us straight to the ferry to Split. One wondered whether my friend and I are daughters of those Russians who own a mansion somewhere nearby. "No, wait, it was the mansion of a Hungarian oligarch, not Russian," another guy said. Anyway, we were not, so they switched a topic.

3. Bol: ideal summer beach weekend chill trip

I was deliberately postponing a visit to Bol and Zlatni Rat on Brac to the beginning of summer. Out of the season, you always risk being disappointed there, especially when you've already learned something about the prominent horn-shaped beaches (Zlatni Rat in Croatian means 'Golden Cape', or 'Golden Horn'). Golden Horn needs sun to be gold. 

Besides sunny weather needed, a trip to Bol is easily organised leisure that few things could spoil. Ferry boat trips Split-Supetar and bus trips Supetar-Bol matches perfect, thus you don't lose time waiting. Also, it's pleasure to continue with a green promenade from Bol village to Zlatni Rat beach after a mountainy road to Bol. I would, perhaps, aware that there are a lot of people in the season. However, it has some advantages. For instance, my friends and I came on Sunday and saw a wedding on the square in front of the parish church (Zupna crkva Gospe od Karmela) in Bol.

Returning from the beach we noticed that the return trips to Split are also perfectly matched. Therefore, you have all the possibilities: 1) to have dinner in Bol and go back to Supetar/Split by last trips; 2) to take the second to last bus to Supetar, have dinner there and go to Split by last ferry trip; 3) to go back to Supetar/Split by second to last trips and have dinner in Split. We choose first and enjoyed island hospitality in one of the restaurants in Bol. "Why is the place called Jadranka?" a question came to my mind. "My name is Jadranka," an owner answered to me. She was the only child, and (grand) parents called it after her. With her husband, they cook all dishes and keep this place already for decades. One more sign of true hospitality is that they remembered our friends who visited it two months ago.

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