February 24, 2021 – TCN recently interviewed Josipa and Matija on their 1,100 kilometers long journey, and now this Croatian couple completed the Via Adriatica trail with success... but not without the headache of the demanding Croatian mountain regions and changeable and unpredictable weather conditions.

Josipa and Matija set off on the Via Adriatica trail on January 1, 2021, starting from Prevlaka, the southermost peninsula in Croatia. The last time we talked to them was one month ago when they were at Svilaja mountain, not even half of their journey. Yesterday, after 54 sunny, rainy, snowy, foggy, and windy days, this Croatian couple completed the Via Adriatica trail.

In the meantime, the Dinara mountain, a newly declared Croatian 12th National Park, amazed them the most, while Velebit mountain showed all of its natural power and broke them with snowstorms. However, after successfully overcoming all the climbs, peaks, sections, weather troubles, they finished their journey at Cape Kamenjak in Istria.

Lost in a minefield

Since Svilaja mountain, when we last heard from each other, the weather conditions created many problems for Josipa and Matija. First, due to the heavy rain, they could not move from the shelter for three days, and the weather forecast was getting worse and worse. They had to move on because there was no point in waiting anymore.

On the Dinara mountain, on the way to a shelter called "Vjetre s Dinare" ("Wind from Dinara" meaning Croatian stormy wind bura), they went through the fog, rain, icy rain, wind, and finally – through a minefield.

"We followed the markings, which at one point got lost because there was snow. It was a thick fog. We didn't see anything; the GPS didn't work either. So we went on our own about 200 meters. We saw a board in the distance, turned backward on us. We thought we would see something written on it, some marking! We climbed up, turned, and looked – 'caution, minefield, please don't pass this way.' I can't describe how we felt at that moment, without a trace, in the middle of nowhere. Besides, we were followed by a dog, a Turkish Kangal, which normally eats wolves," describes Josipa the moment when her whole life passed before her eyes.

Still, they somehow managed to get to that "Wind from Dinara" shelter, apparently so named for a reason. However, that's where another struggle started – lighting a fire.

Real Himalayan conditions on Dinara

All the wood was wet, and Matthias struggled to light the stove. Due to the rain falling for the previous three days and over which the snow was falling, their boots were completely wet. Wood splitting and lighting a fire caused them many problems on the way, which, they admit, took a lot of energy and nerves.

"This whole heating situation was forcing us day after day to pick up bags and warm-up, so we went to bed around 7 pm every day," says Josipa.

Mountain lodging Rupe on Dinara

On Dinara, they felt the power of the bura wind for the first time, which even extinguished the fire during one night in the shelter. All the smoke entered the small house, and all attempts to ignite the stove failed.

"It was freezing, minus 10 degrees Celsius, and the feeling reached minus 20 degrees with 110 km/h of gusts of wind. We experienced real Himalayan conditions on the Dinara," says Josipa.

Fortunately, they had warm sleeping bags with them – that were even too hot! Josipa and Matija couldn't believe that they were lying in a room while it's minus degrees while being hot in feathered bags. That's what it means for a mountaineer to have the right equipment. Still, they took advantage of those windy days to take photos and enjoy.

Mountain lodging Pume on Dinara

In the end, they had to leave the shelter and, despite a strong bura wind on which was difficult even to stand, let alone walk, they moved on. As the sun always comes after a storm, the weather finally calmed down, and it was beautiful.

Dinara – idyllic, fascinating, special, spacious, beautiful

The path towards Lišanjski Peak, the highest peak of the southern Dinara, they say, is a magical place that cannot be described but must be experienced. It is also the furthest point from civilization on the entire route.

"You are in the middle of nowhere. There is nothing in sight, no city, no roads, and everything around you is white. Everything is full of white peaks and hills. Idyllic. If someone threw me here and asked where I was, I would certainly not say that I was in Croatia," says Josipa.

Josipa on Dinara

Matija on Dinara

And Lišanjski Peak itself is fascinating – you can see Bosnia, Dinara, the Cetina River source. In those hours and 15 minutes of climbing, they saw many fresh traces of bears, but (fortunately) no bear jumped out in front of them.

That part of the trip was the most beautiful, they agree. The weather was good. They even walked in short sleeves, though the snow had not yet completely melted. This incredible experience will remain in their memory forever. And when they descended to the source of the Cetina, Lišanjski Peak seemed so far away. An exceptional experience, unique energy, and a special ambiance, they say.

The source of Cetina River

For Sinjal, the highest peak of Dinara and Croatia, they have no words. Now that they saw it under the snow, it seemed ten times more magical than in September when they first experienced it.

"We were standing up at the top, watching, and we couldn't believe where we had come. On one side, you see Biokovo that we passed. On the other side, you see Velebit that's waiting for us. We were proud of each other and ourselves. I get little chills when I think of that part," admits Josipa.

Dinara

Dinara

"Dinara is so spacious, so beautiful. Of all the mountains on this road, the Dinara has remained most etched in my heart and memory," says Josipa.

Velebit – almost giving up

They walked an average of 25 to 30 kilometers a day to the Dinara, and since they came to Velebit, they had been moving like snails. The weather conditions did not allow them to move faster than 10 kilometers a day.

On Velebit, they again got in a minefield, more precisely a demined area, also due to fog. The fear from Dinara returned. Everything around them was white – down because of the snow, up because of the mist, or clouds in which they were. They were disoriented. Then they realized that it was too dangerous to continue the journey.

Apart from the weather – alternating rain, south wind, bura, minus – their problem was every arrival at the next shelter. There were tears in those moments, they admit.

Šugarska Duliba on Velebit

There were some challenging days along the via Via Adriatica trail for this Croatian couple

They could not continue in the rain, especially in the thunder, because it is common knowledge that many mountaineers die due to thunder. However, luck was on their side. One friend drew their attention to a shelter that was not marked on the map, making their journey and planning easier.

On Velebit, they experienced a storm of all storms, with bura gusts of 150 km/h. In places where it pounded them, they barely adhered to sticks, arms, and legs. In one part, the bura even lifted them off the ground.

Josipa on Velebit

"Right in front of Baške Oštarije, where a warm bed and meal was waiting for us, the bura was blowing so much that it lifted us off the ground. If we were a pound lighter, we would probably fly into the air," says Josipa, adding that bura and cold take the most energy.

On the famous Premužić trail, cut into the slope, they thought it would be easy. However, when the snow fell, everything froze, and the track did not exist. It cost them time, energy, and nerves. It was a mental and physical breakdown, a difficult period.

"When the weather is great, the terrain is a disaster, and when the terrain is great, the weather is a disaster. Eternal struggle on our path. We were both sad and disappointed after Velebit because of that. Biokovo and Dinara got along so well, then we came to Velebit, and we thought it would be great because it's familiar to us," says Josipa.

Josipa on Premužić trail on Velebit

Generous help from friends, family, and even strangers

Just before the end of the Via Adriatica trail, in Gorski Kotar, they could barely make their way through the fog, which is why they could not even enjoy the beautiful views. By then, they were slowly fed up, on the verge of giving up, but then, as always in life, friends jumped in. Unselfish support from friends, colleagues, but also strangers came from all sides and gave them extra wind in their backs so that they would not give up when there are already so many successfully traversed sections behind them.

Josipa and Matija on Vojak – the highest peak of Učka mountain in Istria, at the very end of their journey

At Cape Kamenjak, their final destination, they were greeted by family but also by a few unknown people who were supporting them online. Friends couldn't welcome them because of work, but they're preparing a party on Saturday to frame and mark this whole story.

Although they hoped to finish the trail in mid-February, the weather proved to them to be patient and that sometimes things had to go according to nature's plan, not human's. They became patient with each other as well.

"When you spend so much time together, 0-24, you have to make some compromises. As a couple, we function very well, and we support each other when it is hardest," says Josipa.

Josipa and Matija on the Sinjal Peak – highest peak of Dinara and whole of Croatia

Except for roe deers and a few lynxes, they didn't see any wild animals along the way, only a multitude of wolves' and bears' traces, small and large. Also, they were mostly alone along the way, occasionally accompanied by a group of other mountaineers, as well as some beautiful and lovely dogs. However, as they say, they would not survive this trip without the generous help of their friends from Mountaineering Association Vrlovka, who would come and wait for them along the path to give them food and equipment. The fearless team of that mountaineering association even walked with them on Velebit's part while a strong bura wind was blowing, providing Josipa and Matija immense support.

'We wanted to promote the beauty of Croatia, Via Adriatica trail, and active lifestyle'

When asked whether they would dare to retake this path, they agree they wouldn't after all the troubles they faced along the way. But, if asked that question in a week or two, they would definitely say yes, but only under better weather conditions.

Winter has its charms, but it is also exhausting. It requires a lot of hiking equipment, and it is much more dangerous to go in winter than at any other time of year. If Josipa and Matija could choose, they would go in the spring or late fall. When in the mountains in Croatia, one should be humble and patient.

View of Croatian islands from Velebit

"Our goal was to promote the beauty of Croatia, to promote Via Adriatica, and to promote an active lifestyle, especially now at this time of the corona when we are all locked in our homes. I think that hiking is a wonderful hobby, both for the body and for the mind, whether in a company, in a couple, or alone," says Josipa.

Although Josipa and Matija are experienced mountaineers (Matija is even a member of the Croatian Mountain Rescue Service – HGSS), the tour was very demanding for them, both physically and mentally. Considering that they only got a chance to set off on Via Adriatica now, during winter, because Matija's work has been banned and Josipa is having a vacation, the winter conditions did not favor them. But regardless, they enjoyed the inexplicable natural beauties of Croatia and met many generous life-long acquaintances along the way.

"It's hard to describe all those feelings that go through your mind and heart along the way. To understand what we are talking about, it is the best to set out on such a journey on your own," advise Josipa and Matija.

All the photos are from interlocutors' private archives.

You can follow Josipa and Matija and their other hiking journeys on their Facebook page.

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January 30, 2021 – Daruvar Mountaineering Association 'Petrov vrh' is Croatia's largest - it counts every 25th resident of the town as a member

Sitting quite close to the only significant stretch of mountain in Slavonia, you could have guessed some Davuvar residents would be keen on wandering into their nearby Nature Park and its peaks. But, you would surely never have known that Daruvar Mountaineering Association is Croatia's largest. It's so big, it counts every 25th resident of the town as a member.

Daruvar itself has some 10, 000 inhabitants. The Daruvar Mountaineering Association 'Petrov vrh' has 400 members, making it not only the largest sports association in the city but the largest mountaineering association in Croatia. Not so long ago, the society did not rank so highly.

Papuk Nature Park, 'home turf' for Daruvar Mountaineering Association Petrov vrh © Papuk Nature Park

In 2017, Daruvar Mountaineering Association 'Petrov vrh' had only about fifty members. Its rapid growth can be attributed to a willful pursuit of younger town residents, a change in their programme and the embrace of modern communication methods. The Daruvar Mountaineering Association built its own website, set up a Facebook page and began attracting younger members. Its communication with town residents had previously involved only printed pieces of news pinned to a public bulletin board in Daruvar.

Their organised group excursions grew in ambition - trips in recent years have taken Daruvar Mountaineering Association members to climbs across Croatia, Slovenia and Italy, with some of the peaks tackled being over 3000 metres. But, it wasn't solely in the difficulty of the climb and the distances travelled in which they increased their ambition. The excursions were programmed specifically with families in mind and thought put into entertaining young members on each trip. It worked. Over 100 members of the Daruvar Mountaineering Association 'Petrov vrh' are underage climbers.

Although last year the Daruvar Mountaineering Association was unable to make its planned trips to Hungary and Montenegro because of travel restrictions, the sporadic closure of cafes and bars in Daruvar helped membership increase further, according to local news in moj.portal. Who knows how many this year will be taking to the hills with Petrov vrh.

January 22, 2021 – As a New Year's resolution, the Croatian couple decided to set off on one of the longest and most demanding mountaineering ventures in Croatia – the Via Adriatica trail. Starting at Prevlaka, this is their 21st day of walking towards Cape Kamenjak in Istria. Delighted by Croatia's views and the hospitality of the people they met along the way, Josipa and Matija happily make their way through the first long-distance trail in Croatia.

The Via Adriatica trail combines existing hiking trails, forest roads, macadam, and roads in a total of 1,100 kilometers with 41,000 meters of altitude difference. The trail connects Croatia's most beautiful mountain massifs, peaks, and landscapes, stretching from the Istrian peninsula across the Croatian mountain threshold all the way to the Prevlaka peninsula.

As its name suggests, it connects the most attractive Croatian mountain massifs, peaks, and regions along the Adriatic coast. It passes through three national parks, three nature parks, six significant landscapes, three special reserves, and many protected areas.

Via Adriatica trail

If we go in concrete figures, Via Adriatica goes along 14 mountains, 12 rivers, two lakes, 18 protected areas, seven counties, and 52 municipalities. What makes this trail attractive and popular among Croatian and foreign hikers are the sea and island views wherever it is possible.

Josipa and Matija, a young romantic couple from Croatia, are now on the way to Svilaja, a mountain in the Dalmatian hinterland. Although sighing from the constant walking with heavy backpacks on their backs, they tell their story of how, when, and why they decided to head to this fantastic Croatian long-distance trail right now, in January.

'We got in the car and left'

Both Josipa and Matija are natives of Karlovac and hiking enthusiasts, chasing each their careers, which allowed them two months of a completely new mountaineering experience due to a combination of circumstances. Josipa (27) has a master's degree in economics, works as a reception manager in one Zagreb hotel, while Matija (25) runs his own business in an adventure travel agency in Karlovac.

In mid-November last year, they discussed what they would do in January and February since there is not much in Zagreb hotels at that time of the year. When Matija was banned from working on December 1, they decided to go on the Via Adriatica trail to promote Croatia, its beauties, Matija's company, but also – themselves.

Josipa and Matija, Kozjak mountain

"We have time until the end of February, but we took more time than the average time needed to pass Via Adriatica because we took into account winter and unforeseen circumstances. We already know that we will have to take a three-day break this week due to heavy rain and stormy jugo wind," Matija told the Dalmacija danas portal, which caught up with them in Žrnovnica. They were hosted by the Association Žrvanj, which makes its premises available to all hikers who decide to cross the entire Via Adriatica.

For Josipa, as she says, Via Adriatica was a great idea, but it never crossed her mind to set off on this, not at all simple, but beautiful trail. However, she took advantage of this unique opportunity and, together with her beloved Matija, a member of the Croatian Mountain Rescue Service (HGSS), set off on an adventure.

"In December, we didn't know if we were going to leave or not. There was quarantine, bans, passes. Until the last three days, we didn't know if we were going. Then the earthquake happened, and again it was a question of whether I would go to the rescue or not. Given the time invested in preparation and all the equipment, we said we were going. We got in the car and left," says Matija.

Kozjak mountain

'People make the whole trail special'

Although Via Adriatica starts in Cape Kamenjak in Istria, Josipa and Matija decided to start from the last destination in Prevlaka, to be closer to home in Karlovac at the end of the trail.

"The idea was to be in Dalmatia for the first few weeks, while we have supplies of food and then start getting closer to home. It's more natural to get closer to home than the other way around. We celebrated the New Year, and in the morning, we left Prevlaka," says Josipa.

"The first two or three Via Adriatica's sections are quite flat. When you walk on the flat for a long time, you get bored. Pelješac is beautiful, the view from Sveti Ilija, the highest peak of the Pelješac peninsula, is magnificent, but it takes so long to get there! We only reached the 'real' mountains after Pelješac – Biokovo, Omiška Dinara… Perun has beautiful views," says Matija, emphasizing that the most beautiful parts of the trail are – the people.

On the fifth section, Josip and Matija had good company - members of a mountaineering association

Josipa and Matija at Omiška Dinara

"People make the whole trail special. People selflessly give you their home, food, hospitality. There is no doubt that this path would be five times harder if people did not help. It wouldn't be impossible, but it would be a lot harder. If we had to sleep in the winter in a tent every night, it would not be easy. This way, when you know that warm accommodation awaits you in the evening, you are mentally better prepared. People feed us and take care of us," says Matija.

As they talk to us, they are on the sixth section of Via Adriatica, out of 13. Another 600 kilometers is still in front of them, but they are satisfied with their pace. With a laugh, Josipa says they are breaking through the thorns.

Best views they've ever seen

Before Via Adriatica, they visited Biokovo several times, but always during summer when everything is "stone and heat." They experienced it for the first time in the winter, and they say it was impressive.

"We imagined Biokovo white with huge vastness. And it greeted us exactly like that; icy, white. The weather was perfect; the snow was perfect for walking. We walked in crampons because everything was frozen. Although it was icy and cold, it was sunny, like in a movie. It was snowing on the Omiš Dinara, the large snowflakes falling," describes Josipa.

Snowy Biokovo

View from Biokovo

Then followed Perun or Poljička mountain. Perun, says Matija, is not Biokovo, but it has its charms.

Capturing beautiful moments on their way to Perun

"From Omiš, you go a little towards the village of Gata, so the ascent to the chapels begins, and then descends to the seaside, which is beautiful, with a view of the islands. The moment when Split appears in front of you is especially impressive. So far, I've seen Split from all sides, even from a helicopter, but this is the best view of Split I have ever seen. Brutal," says Matija.

The northern part of Dalmatia - the Dinara mountain, the Lika region, and Velebit mountain - are still waiting for them. The journey is challenging but also exciting.

"Dinara and Velebit are our next challenges. Dinara is quite laid, and I think it will be relatively easy. We know it will all be covered in snow. On Velebit, Vaganski Vrh and Sveto Brdo, two highest Velebit peaks can be quite tricky, especially if those huge cliffs freeze," says Matija, but points out that they are well prepared.

Good equipment is the key

So far, they have not even used all the equipment they brought with them, and they were at a temperature of -15 degrees Celsius with a strong wind. They have high-altitude hiking boots, sleeping bags that can withstand -20 degrees. They also have a real expeditionary Himalayan tent for two, weighing a little less than 4 kilos, wind-resistant over 150 km / h.

"We mostly relied on obtaining quality and safety equipment. Since we travel in the winter, we needed good winter equipment that can withstand low temperatures. I think we did our best in researching for good equipment. We have quality equipment, and we are ready to sleep in winter conditions," says Josipa.

She doesn't check her phone very often, and the signal is lost every now and then, so it's harder to communicate. However, that doesn't bother them – they have each other.

Josipa and Matija

When asked how much it took them physically to prepare for such an endeavor, they say that they are in the mountains every weekend and spend all their spare time in the mountains, so they do not physically prepare too much.

"As for mountaineering life, we are very active. We crossed both easier and harder climbs, both in summer and winter, so we are well prepared. And mentally... I don't think you can mentally prepare for that until you face the path itself. You have some idea what it might look like, but until you find yourself there, you don't know," says Josipa.

Prepare, don't rush, and enjoy the fantastic scenes

And that hiking is becoming a popular hobby in these new circumstances is confirmed by the story of Marin Zovko, who, combining Via Adriatica with the Croatia Long Distance trail, recently walked the whole of Croatia in just 100 days. He decided to embark on his adventure alone and later admitted that loneliness had fallen hardest on him.

Josipa and Matija, more or less, always hike together and often mountaineer in larger groups since they are active members of the mountaineering society. Apart from the company that the hiking companions provide, Josipa says that it is good to hike in the company for safety reasons.

View from Kozjak

"Honestly, I would never dare to undertake such an endeavor alone. Matija knows a lot about the mountains, and since he is a member of the HGSS, we are in safe hands," says Josipa happily.

They recommend people to enjoy the trail, not to rush, but to prepare.

"It takes a lot of courage and a lot of madness to set out on a journey like this, but the trail takes back everything a hundredfold. We watch amazing scenes, and we get to know our country even better. Whoever is interested in something like this, I would recommend it from the bottom of my heart, "says Josipa.

We now let them continue their journey in peace, enjoying all the natural beauties surrounding them because they are quite exhausted due to the Via Adriatica venture's daily demands.

All the photos are from interlocutors' private archives.

To follow more news from their Via Adriatica adventure, you can find them on Facebook.

For the latest travel info, bookmark our main travel info article, which is updated daily. 

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December 11, 2020 – On the occasion of International Mountain Day, which is marked worldwide today, the Croatian Mountaineering Association, WWF Adria, and Parks Dinarides called for mountain biodiversity preservation.

Biodiversity is the theme of this year's International Mountain Day, which is being celebrated around the world today. The UN General Assembly proclaimed this day in 2002 to highlight mountains' significance for nature and people.

Croatian mountains perfect for hiking

The Croatian Mountaineering Association, the largest Croatian association, dedicated to environmental protection, points out that we should not forget that the Croatian mountains are unique in the world precisely because of their great diversity in a small area.

"The tallest Croatian mountains belong to the Dinaric mountains, and ecologically extremely sensitive karst relief is what characterizes them. They stretch in a northwest-southeast direction, along the Adriatic coast in several parallel rows, starting with the island mountains.

Unlike the Dinarides, the Pannonian and Peripannonian mountains are mostly old geological structures, with milder slopes, relatively low, and rich in water and vegetation. Their direction of stretching is not unique, but nowhere does it coincide with the Dinaric. They are characterized by the abundance of watercourses that have cut deep valleys over the centuries and thus created a colorful relief.

Due to the low altitude compared to the world's highlands, most of the Croatian peaks are relatively easily accessible for mountaineering, which makes the Croatian mountains very suitable, practically ideal for hiking," wrote the Croatian Mountaineering Association.

Velebit, the biggest Croatian mountain / Copyright Romulić and Stojčić

Croatian karst richness

Every year, the Croatian Mountaineering Association celebrates International Mountain Day with various actions. Still, since larger gatherings are not possible this year, they mark this day by publishing posters with messages and slogans of mountaineers on the topic "Do not leave a trace."

Next year will be the International Year of Caves and Karst, and the Croatian Mountaineering Association announces that it will mark it with a series of speleological, ecological, and promotional actions aimed at emphasizing the need for better protection of caves and karst.

In terms of karst richness, including numerous caves and pits, Croatia is among the most interesting and richest countries in Europe.

Biokovo mountain / Copyright Romulić and Stojčić

Mountain-specific policies

World Wide Fund for Nature Adria (WWF Adria) and Parks Dinarides also called on the public to preserve mountain biodiversity. At the conference about the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on protected areas, they highlighted the sensitivity of protected areas in situations where tourism is impossible.

They emphasized that mountain biodiversity is threatened by climate change, unsustainable agriculture, mineral exploitation, deforestation, poaching, land conversion, and over-construction.

In addition to natural disasters, all this leads to a fragile and unstable environment for local communities. The most significant consequences are marginalized groups, such as communities in rural mountainous areas, who often leave their homes due to a lack of economic development opportunities. Therefore, they pointed out that one recommendation is to include mountain-specific policies in national sustainable development strategies.

To read more about lifestyle in Croatia, follow TCN's dedicated page.

A potentially catastrophic situation above Makarska was avoided thanks to the quick response of rescuers yesterday.

Three Hajduk flags will soon be marking the mountain massifs.

The first Šatorovanje pod Kamešnicom, an event combining mountaineering with traditional local products is coming to Trilj June 17-19!

We received a wonderful invitation from the Trilj tourist board for their first "Camping under Kamešnica" event.

The Carnival Season started in Sinj few days ago and there is plenty to choose from this year. The Mountaineering Association Svilaja is making their own contribution by organising a costume party on Saturday, January 30, 2016. The party will start at 17.00 at the Mountaineering House "Orlove Stine", fun and dinner included. Contact Zvone or Zoran for more information.

Of course, there was plenty of local delicacies, that go with this time of a year, and in the end, everything was spiced up with songs and a promise of a reunion same time, same place, next year.