July 17, 2020 – Zagreb's residents have voiced outrage at the removal of a beloved work of art, replaced by nothing. But is this really anything new for Croatia Public Art?

Over the last 24 hours, residents of Zagreb have voiced their outrage at the removal of one of the city's best-loved pieces of street art. 'The Little Prince' had sat in Čulinečka ulica in the Dubrava neighbourhood since 2016. But now it is no more.

Inspired by French writer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry's children's novel - one of the world's best-selling and most-translated books – the mural was placed at the end of a busy underpass. As such, it was a colourful piece of Croatia Public Art, a welcome for motorists entering the drab, grey concrete of the city, stuck in traffic, on their way to another grueling day of work.

Updates to the story have revealed the culprits to be fans of the local football team, Dinamo Zagreb. They had been given permission to paint yet more murals of their logos and slogans on the rest of the underpass, under the provision – according to neighbourhood authorities who granted it – they did not touch the existing artwork. But they did. Where once was placed an inspiring and cheering mural, there now sits nothing.

Representatives of the largest organised group of Dinamo supporters – known as Bad Blue Boys – have, at the time of writing, failed to comment on the affair. Perhaps they weren't aware of the Dubrava sect's actions? They certainly don't appear capable of reprimanding their own members. So much for claiming to be 'organised'. Or perhaps they're just exhausted by all the bad press?

In recent memory, the Bad Blue Boys have repeatedly hit the headlines and, to be fair, not always for such reprehensible, thoughtless behaviour. Following Zagreb's 2020 earthquake, supporters came together as some of the first responders at the scene of a hospital, where they assisted in removing infants from the damaged wards. Bravo! But, then young supporters were pictured with a banner bearing the scandalous words “We will f*ck Serbian women and children”

Representatives from the Bad Blue Boys were quick to denounce the disgusting banner. Bravo! However, they implied the wording was only problematic as it pertained to pedophilia. Eek. And, within 24 hours, the same voices were raging about anti-Croat slogans used by Serbian football fans, in that classically Balkan method of argument where you ignore the issue at hand, point somewhere else and say “But, they are much worse!”

With the removal of 'The Little Prince', this time they seem to have gone too far. All but the most insecure and ardent of supporters have turned on the Bad Blue Boys, labelling them hooligans, idiots and selfish. Comments under news items covering the story are filled with angry criticism for the football fans.

“They like to paint themselves as hooligans who we should all fear,” one angry Zagreb resident who wished to remain anonymous, told TCN, “but really they can only paint their retarded logos. They piss all over the city like feral dogs marking their territory. Their murals are already on walls everywhere, why destroy this art? Everyone loved it! They are not even real football fans, let alone hooligans. They boycotted (attending) because of the club's (allegedly) corrupt management, but as soon as the club released 1 Euro tickets, stadium was again full. For 20 years they shout and spray (paint) fake anger over corruption at the club, but they don't do a thing about it. The same people are still in charge and the stadium is full of these so-called fans. Can you imagine that happening in a football club in your country, in Spain, in Argentina, in Brazil? No. Impossible. Such corruption would not last a year before fans removed them. The corrupt would be assassinated if that's what is needed (to remove them). They are not Bad Blue Boys, they are Big Blue Babies. They are dogs with loud voice but absolutely no teeth”

The anger of Zagreb residents is palpable. But, can we blame the pointless and saddening idiocy of this affair on the Bad Blue Boys? Like the disgusting slogan on the teenage supporters' banner, such rhetoric does not appear out of thin air. Actions like these are sadly learned. And the country has an established history of needlessly destroying Croatia Public Art and replacing it with... nothing.


A photograph of a small section of Ivan Joko Knežević's mosaic in Omiš, the only record in colour remaining of this piece of Croatia Public Art © Knežević family archives

The long-cursed bottleneck on the Jadranska magistrala (Adriatic highway), the Dalmatian town of Omiš, is now fighting to attract the kind of footfall that its neighbours Makarska and Split experience during summer. And, sitting at the mouth of the Cetina river, it sure does have a lot to offer. However, one thing it no longer has to offer is the amazing mosaic created by renowned local artist Ivan Joko Knežević on one of the town's most prominent squares. Today, the square is known as Trg Franje Tuđmana (but, of course it is – it's probably very close to a street called Ante Starčevića too) and where the beautiful mosaic once stood, there sits a blank wall. This piece of Croatia Public Art was removed under a wave of nationalist sentiment following Croatia's war of independence, solely because one of the local scenes it contained depicted Partizan soldiers (who fought to recapture for its inhabitants this very area from the Nazi-allied Italians it had been gifted to). Now, there is no reason for tourists to come to this square other than the drinks on offer. They sit and sip and look at nothing.


The wife of Ivan Joko Knežević and friends, standing in front of the mosaic in Omiš after the unveiling of this work of Croatia Public Art © Knežević family archives

This is not the only time the work of the rather brilliant Ivan Joko Knežević has undergone such a fate. Croatia's only true master of mosaic operating in the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s, his incredible 'Narod u svojoj težnji k stalnom napretku' mosaic was a proud feature adorning the walls of the former military hospital in Križine, Split until Croatian independence. Thereafter, it sat behind a closed curtain for 15 years until some of the city's more enlightened residents insisted the curtain be removed. Happily, this work of Croatia Public Art is now back on display.


Ivan Joko Knežević standing in front of his Croatia Public Art mosaic at the former military hospital in Split © Knežević family archives

Spomenik narodu-heroju Slavonije (Monument to the hero people of Slavonia) was a former World War II memorial by Vojin Bakić. So gigantic was this stainless steel monolith of gratitude that it took over a decade to build. After completion, it was the largest postmodern sculpture in the world. It took a concerted but incomparable five-day effort by bored soldiers with leftover explosives to destroy it following the end of Croatia's war of independence. Today, such structures of art are recognised and hugely appreciated by many. Fans from all over the world travel to see them. Located in Kamenska, Brestovac, one of the most deprived areas of Slavonia, there is now nothing for the tourists to come and see except the lubenica (watermelon) growing slowly. So, they do not come.

Spomenik narodu-heroju Slavonije (Monument to the hero people of Slavonia) by Vojin Bakić. Built over 10 years, it was the largest postmodern sculpture in the world. It took five days to destroy with explosives © Public domain

Of course, the removal of the latter examples are rooted in a change of regime and political climate. Whether you approve of the recent removal of statues of slave traders in England in response to the Black Lives Matter movement, the famous toppling of Saddam Hussein's statue following the liberation of Baghdad or the destruction of world heritage sites like Palmyra by Isis depends only on your personal perspective and politics. It is all the same thing. The removal of Zagreb's 'Little Prince' just seems like thoughtless vandalism in comparison.

Neighbourhood authorities in Dubrava have promised the return of the much-loved mural, a feat complicated by travel restrictions as its author lives in Novi Sad, Serbia. For now, city residents will look at nothing and curse the shortsightedness of the 'Big Blue Babies' who removed it. But, can they really be so harshly blamed in a country with a history for such wanton destruction of art that is never replaced?

July 17, 2020 - What happens when you bring the magic of Croatia's capital city and the divine nature around it into one place? Meet Around Zagreb, a new platform which seriously enhances Zagreb's tourism attractiveness. 

Imagine an EU capital that was not long ago named Lonely Planet's Number 1 destination in Europe. A city of culture (with more museums per capita than any other), of parks, cycling routes, a relaxed cafe culture, with arguably the best lifestyle in Europe. A city that is a rising star on the tourism scene with an incredibly diverse offer – for families, foodies, culture junkies and nature lovers. Imagine an EU capital that was not long ago named Lonely Planet's Number 1 destination in Europe. A city of culture (with more museums per capita than any other), of parks, cycling routes, a relaxed cafe culture, with arguably the best lifestyle in Europe. A city that is a rising star on the tourism scene with an incredibly diverse offer – for families, foodies, culture junkies and nature lovers. 

(Maksimir Park - Photo credit D. Rostuhar)

Now surround that city with a giant circle of green, with a wealth of authentic, natural and unique experiences, with something for each and every visitor. In these trying times of social distancing, escape the crowds and inhale the healthy lifestyle and nature that is combined in a visit to Zagreb and its surroundings.  

Meet Around Zagreb, a new initiative from the tourist boards of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County, which offers perhaps the most exciting – and undiscovered – tourism offer in Croatia today. 

(Photo credit - M. Gasparovic)

Around Zagreb, Close to the City, Close to the Heart, opens up the Croatian capital to an array of unforgettable experiences right on the city's doorstep. And with a wealth of healthy outdoor options already in the city, Around Zagreb is an ideal family holiday and city break. 

Leave the magic of the city in search of authentic experiences. Have you ever been truffle hunting, or tasted the excellent sparkling wines from the Plesivica region? Take a cooking tour and learn how to make irresistible štrukli, but keep some room for the legendary kremšnita from Samobor. Choose from a number of rustic eateries serving their customers with authentic local dishes from fresh local produce that have been prepared the same way for centuries. 

(Photo credit J. Duval)

Want to try some of these products yourself? Get down to the famous Dolac market in central Zagreb to experience fresh produce shopping the traditional way, with no supermarket in sight. Explore Zagreb's thriving craft beer scene, and do not leave before sampling – and becoming addicted to – Zagreb's coffee culture in its abundant outdoor cafes, the very heartbeat of city life. 

(Photo credit - J. Duval)

Zagreb is like a Living Room in the Open with those amazing cafes for that relaxed lifestyle. Its numerous parks, the Botanical Gardens, Zagreb Zoo and the lakes of Jarun and Bundek are a delight, but now let's go beyond the living room and see what other outdoor treasures await around Zagreb. 

Hike in the majestic hills of Sljeme and enjoy the best views of the city in pristine nature, take romantic walks through the numeous forests (with or without those truffles), cycle the routes of this green ring of continental Croatia, or get lost in the tranquillity and beauty of Žumberak Nature Park. Visit the Savica Lakes for some exceptional bird watching at the edge of the city.  

Breathe. 

(Photo credit - M. Vrdoljak)

Or get active. A round of golf, perhaps, or some family horse-riding, cycling tours, fishing, hiking or adrenaline activities for the kids. With such diversity of things do see and do, as well as endless nature without the crowds, there are different activities for everyone, and all the ingredients for a happy and healthy family holiday.  

(Photo credit - J. Duval)

In order to help you choose, Around Zagreb has come up with some suggested 3-day itineraries depending on your interest, giving several options of perfect city breaks.  'Three Days of Zagreb and Surroundings' has quality suggested itineraries for foodies, for families, for nature lovers, for history lovers, and for art lovers. 

Tourism has changed, perhaps forever, due to coronavirus. The new focuses are safety, health, lifestyle,  nature and authentic experiences. All of these can be found in every corner of Zagreb and around Zagreb. Welcome to a new approach to tourism – Zagreb and Around – your safe, authentic, healthy lifestyle destination. 

(Photo credit J. Duval)

For more details of the exceptional tourism offer of Zagreb city and county, meet the new Around Zagreb website. 

July 16, 2020 - Zagreb's Mladost defended the title of the Adriatic Regional League, defeating the host Jug AO Dubrovnik 15-11 (3-2, 3-5, 7-2, 2-2) in the final played at the open swimming pool in Dubrovnik's Gruz.

HRT reports that Mladost reached their second title in this competition primarily with a great third quarter, which they won 7-2. The team from Zagreb managed to neutralize Loren Fatovic, who scored as many as five goals in the first two quarters, while the other players of the home team were utterly harmless in the attack.

On the other hand, Harkov filled Popadic's net with three goals and Cuk with two long-range shots. Perhaps the critical moment of the game happened in the middle of the third quarter, more precisely with the 10-8 result for Mladost, when the referees assessed that after Papanastasiou's shot, the ball did not cross the goal line, although the impression is that the Jug center scored.

The most efficient player for Mladost was Serbian player Milos Cuk with five goals, Konstantin Harkov added three, Alexander Bowen and Lovre Miloc scored two, and Cosmin Radu, Luka Bukic and Josip Vrlic scored one goal each. Loren Fatovic scored six times for Jug AO, though no one else scored more than one goal, including Filip Krzic, Danil Merkulov, Marko Zuvela, Hrvoje Benic and Paulo Obradovic. Ivan Marcelic was also great at the gates of Mladost with 14 saves.

Jug AO and Mladost will soon start the final series of the playoffs for the title of Croatian champion. The champion will be the team that is the first to achieve three victories, and the first game on the program is on Saturday in Dubrovnik.

To read more about sport in Croatia, follow TCN's dedicated page.

July 13, 2020 -  The 34th round of the Croatian First League was held from July 10 to12, 2020. This round featured the 'Eternal Derby' between Dinamo and Hajduk, which was the rival club's final meeting of the season. 

Gorica v. Varazdin (0:1)

Gorica and Varazdin met in Velika Gorica on Friday, July 10, 2020, in front of 953 spectators. 

The only goal of the match came in the 76th minute when Drozdek scored a penalty for 0:1. 

Gorica is currently in 6th place with 47 points, while Varazdin is in 8th with 33. 

Inter Zapresic v. Rijeka (0:1)

Inter and Rijeka met on Saturday, July 11, 2020, in Zagreb in front of 312 spectators. 

The only goal of the match came in the 71st minute when Colak scored a penalty Rijeka for 0:1. 

Inter is currently in the last place with 17 points, while Rijeka is in 4th with 58. 

Osijek v. Istra 1961 (2:0)

Osijek and Istra met on Saturday, July 11, 2020, at City Garden Stadium in front of 2,178 spectators. 

Lopa scored Osijek's first goal right before the half for 1:0. Maric missed a penalty in the 72nd minute, though Mance increased Osijek's lead with a goal 10 minutes later for the final score of 2:0. 

Osijek is currently in 2nd place with 62 points, while Istra is in 9th with 24. 

Slaven Belupo v. Lokomotiva (1:1) 

Belupo and Lokomotiva met in Koprivnica on Sunday, July 12, 2020.

While the first half went without goals, Bogojevic scored in the 62nd minute for the Belupo lead, though Tolic equalized for Lokomotiva in the 73rd minute for the final score of 1:1.

Belupo is currently in 7th place with 35 points, while Lokomotiva is in 3rd with 61. 

Dinamo v. Hajduk (2:3)

Dinamo and Hajduk closed out the 34th round with the 'Eternal Derby' on Sunday, July 12, 2020, at Maksimir Stadium in Zagreb. 

Dinamo's Ivanusec scored a quick goal in the 13th minute for 1:0. Hajduk's Caktas missed a penalty 10 minutes later, though 19-year-old Cuic equalized for 1:1 in the 31st minute. Dinamo's Gojak received a double yellow in the 45th minute, forcing Dinamo to play with a man down for the entire second half. 

Orsic put Dinamo back in the lead in the 61st minute for 2:1, though Cuic scored his second goal fo the game for Hajduk to equalize again for 2:2 in the 81st. An own goal by Theophile-Catherine gave Hajduk the 2:3 win in the 86th minute. 

Dinamo has already clinched the title and sits in 1st place with 76 points, while Hajduk is in 5th with 57.

You can see the full HNL table here. 

To read more about sport in Croatia, follow TCN's dedicated page. 

July 12, 2020 - The latest news from around Croatia’s airports for flights to Croatia with updates from Zagreb, Split, Dubrovnik, Pula, and Zadar.

After we announced the flight schedule of low-cost airline easyJet to Split, Croatian Aviation reports that they decided to launch traffic to other airports in Croatia at the end of this month.

easyJet will additionally return to Dubrovnik, Zadar and Pula, but in a significantly reduced form, with very few destinations and a small number of weekly flights compared to the 2019 season.

Lines to Dubrovnik

Amsterdam - Dubrovnik, from July 23, twice a week, on Thursdays and Sundays, from July 28 four times a week, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays,

Edinburgh - Dubrovnik, from July 21, twice a week, Tuesdays and Saturdays,

Manchester - Dubrovnik, from July 22, twice a week, Wednesdays and Saturdays,

Naples - Dubrovnik, from July 20, twice a week, Mondays and Fridays.

Return to Pula

Amsterdam - Pula, from July 22, twice a week, Wednesdays and Saturdays,

London Luton - Pula, from July 25, once a week, Saturdays,

Basel - Pula, from July 25, once a week, on Saturdays,

Berlin - Pula, from July 25, once a week, on Saturdays.

Lines to Zadar

Amsterdam - Zadar, from July 26, twice a week, on Tuesdays and Saturdays,

Basel - Zadar, from July 25, three times a week, on Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays,

Berlin - Zadar, from July 25, once a week, on Saturdays,

London Luton - Zadar, from July 25, twice a week, Wednesdays and Saturdays.

The company will launch 12 international routes to the 3 mentioned airports, not including Split to which easyJet has been flying since the beginning of July this year. Changes are still possible and depend on the epidemiological situation in Croatia.

Croatian Aviation also reports that Air France started traffic to Croatia at the beginning of July (except for Split, which will begin in the middle of the month), and the company has already announced an increase in the number of weekly flights:

From August 1, the Paris-Dubrovnik line will operate four times a week (until then only two flights a week), on Mondays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

From July 27, the Paris-Split line will operate as many as 6 times a week (until the specified date 3 times a week), every day except Saturday.

The Paris-Zagreb route currently operates four times a week, but as of July 27, there will be as many as 11 flights a week on the route. Namely, Air France will significantly increase the number of flights, introducing two flights a day every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, while on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, it will operate once a day.

Aircraft type A319 / 320/321 has been announced on all routes to Croatia, while aircraft of smaller capacity, type E190, will operate towards Split.

Furthermore, British TUI, an extremely important airline that normally operates to 4 airports in Croatia during the summer flight schedule; Dubrovnik, Split, Rijeka and Pula, will likely not start regular traffic to destinations in Croatia this summer.

Croatian Aviation reports that due to the impact of the pandemic, the company grounded its fleet and canceled numerous destinations in its network, including those in Croatia.

This summer, TUI will not operate on as many as 8 lines to Dubrovnik:

London (Gatwick) - Dubrovnik,

Cardiff - Dubrovnik,

Glasgow - Dubrovnik,

Manchester - Dubrovnik,

Birmingham - Dubrovnik,

Bristol - Dubrovnik

Sheffield - Dubrovnik,

East Midlands - Dubrovnik.

It is important to note that all routes to Dubrovnik from Great Britain had one or two flights a week, they were mainly used to transport tourists from the TUI group (cruisers and packages that include hotel accommodation), and wide-body aircraft came to Dubrovnik regularly, like the B787-8 or even a larger version of B787-9.

As for Split Airport, 3 lines have been canceled:

London (Gatwick) - Split,

Birmingham - Split,

Manchester - Split.

At Pula Airport, TUI canceled 6 lines:

London (Gatwick) - Pula,

Birmingham - Pula,

Bristol - Pula,

Sheffield - Pula,

East Midlands - Pula,

Manchester - Pula.

TUI used wide-body aircraft, mostly B787-8. The only line to Rijeka (London Gatwick - Rijeka) has also been canceled for this summer season.

In addition to the significant loss for airports to which TUI UK normally flies in the summer flight schedule, the loss is even greater for the tourism sector, which has collaborated with this company in the sale of travel arrangements.

Finally, Croatian Aviation reports that Italian national airline Alitalia has announced its modified flight schedule for August, which has no destinations in Croatia.

The company will significantly increase the number of destinations from August, mainly to destinations from which many tourists traditionally come to Italy (a significant increase in weekly flights to Asia and the USA).

During the summer flight schedule, the company operated to Split and Dubrovnik from Rome (Leonardo da Vinci Airport - Fiumicino). The lines are not currently in operation, and the company does not intend to launch them in August, either. Given that both lines were in operation until the end of September, we can expect that the well-known Italian company will not return to Croatia this year.

Croatia Airlines operates from Zagreb via Split and Dubrovnik to Rome, and on direct flights from Rome to Croatia, there is also Vueling, so passengers who want to travel between Croatia and Italy have a choice in the form of direct flights, as well as those with one stop on the way from or towards Zagreb.

For the latest travel info, bookmark our main travel info article, which is updated daily. 

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July 10, 2020 - The latest news from around Croatia’s airports for flights to Croatia with updates from Zagreb and Brac. 

Croatian Aviation reports that German national airline Lufthansa launched traffic on the Munich-Zagreb route in early July, only three times a week, on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, but will soon increase the number of weekly flights on this route.

Lufthansa will increase the number of weekly flights between Zagreb and Munich from July 27. Namely, from the mentioned date, Lufthansa will operate 5 times a week (Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays) on this line.

For the latest travel info, bookmark our main travel info article, which is updated daily. 

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Croatia Airlines operates on the same route every day, departing from Zagreb in the afternoon, and from July 21, they have a second daily flight on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

From July 27, Croatia Airlines should have two departures per day on this route every day of the week (a total of 14 flights per week), which, together with Lufthansa, provides 19 flights per week on this route.

This is still a smaller number of flights and seats offered compared to the period before the coronavirus crisis, given that Lufthansa also operated twice a day in the summer flight schedule on this route. Still, the company is likely to increase frequencies in August on this line further.

Lufthansa does not currently plan to launch the Frankfurt-Zagreb route, but in cooperation with Croatia Airlines, it offers connections to its network through a code-share agreement, as well as direct flights to this German city.

Furthermore, Croatian Aviation reports that German charter company Sundair announced the introduction of regular charter lines between Frankfurt and Brac from mid-July this year.

The Frankfurt-Brac line will run twice a week, every Monday and Friday, starting on July 17. Charter flights should be maintained on this route until the end of the summer flight schedule, on October 23 this year.

A319 aircraft have been announced on the route, which has between 150 and 156 seats in the fleet of this carrier.

We previously announced that Croatia Airlines would also introduce the A319 aircraft on this route, and thus perform charter flights to Linz and Graz.

July 8, 2020 -  The latest news from around Croatia’s airports for flights to Croatia with updates from Zagreb.

Croatian Aviation reports that Croatia Airlines and KLM currently operate on the Zagreb - Amsterdam route, and both companies offer an adequate number of flights between the two capital cities. 

Croatia Airlines operates on this route every day, departing from Zagreb to the capital of the Netherlands in the morning, which allows passengers numerous connections via the airport in Amsterdam.

For the latest travel info, bookmark our main travel info article, which is updated daily. 

Read the Croatian Travel Update in your language - now available in 24 languages

Join the Total Croatia Travel INFO Viber community.

Earlier this month, the Dutch airline KLM also re-established traffic on the line from Amsterdam to Zagreb, which flies only three times a week in July, in the afternoon, on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

As of Tuesday, July 14, Croatia Airlines will offer another additional flight per week in the reservation calendar, every Tuesday, departing from Zagreb in the afternoon. A total of 11 flights are available between Zagreb and Amsterdam daily, in the morning, and the second flight on Tuesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

It is to be expected that KLM will increase the number of flights on this route from the beginning of August. As of the beginning of next month, as many as 15 daily flights should be available on this route.

Furthermore, Croatian Aviation previously reported that due to the impact of the coronavirus pandemic and reduced demand, SAS does not plan to launch numerous seasonal routes to Croatia from Scandinavia in this year's summer flight schedule.

SAS already operates on several lines to Croatia, from Copenhagen, Oslo and Stockholm to Split, and from Copenhagen to Pula.

The company has no plans to launch flights to Dubrovnik in July, and it is almost certain that many other routes will also not be in this year's summer flight schedule.

Numerous lines to Split have been canceled

In the summer flight schedule, SAS operated from as many as 9 destinations to Split, while this year only 3 previously mentioned lines will be in traffic.

The company does not plan to launch lines from Tromso, Harstad, Alesund, Trondheim, Bergen, Stavanger, Kristiansand, Aarhus and Gothenburg to Split this year. However, from most of the mentioned destinations, it is possible to travel with one transfer via Copenhagen, Oslo or Stockholm, also with SAS.

Lines from Copenhagen, Oslo and Stockholm to Dubrovnik are also not on sale and will most likely not be available this year.

Pula Airport and SAS

Pula has been connected to Bergen, Oslo, Stavanger, Gothenburg and Copenhagen in previous summer seasons, but SAS operates only on the line from Copenhagen to Pula and does not plan to launch other lines this summer.

Zadar - a newly planned destination

This summer, the company planned to introduce the Copenhagen - Zadar route and thus add another Croatian airport to its destination network. The flights were originally planned twice a week, but have been completely withdrawn from sale for this year.

July 7, 2020 - Life in Zagreb after the earthquake are returning to normal, and if you are a visitor, the city has never been more enchanting. 

 After 63 days of lockdown on idyllic Hvar, I have travelled quite a lot around Croatia in recent weeks. As I wrote previously, while many were dreaming of travel and the beaches on the pristine Adriatic during self-isolation, there was only one place that I really missed and could not wait to see again. 

Zagreb. 

Part of the reason, of course, was that my lockdown was spent on one of the 10 most beautiful islands in the world, but Zagreb kept calling me. The horror of the earthquake on top of corona was a tragedy, and I felt for so many friends in the city. 

Another reason was the fantastic response of Zagreb promoting itself to the world in the ensuing weeks. As most destinations settled with a lazy promotion of Stay Safe, Travel Later, Zagreb bared its soul with a number of innovative campaigns to include locals and visitors alike. It seemed as though there was no corner of the Croatian capital that was not examined. 

One thing I have learned in my travels is in recent weeks is that everyone has their own perspective of things based on their own individual lockdown experience. Having a view of the Adriatic and access to the sea made mine a lot more comfortable than most once I switched off my laptop after reporting on corona all day, and I can only begin to imagine what it must have been like to be holed up in an apartment during a pandemic and several earthquakes. Zagreb is in pain still, for sure, but it is also returning to a semblance of normal life after the devastating quakes. 

And rather enchantingly too. I have been several times in the last two months, and I can honestly say from the perspective of a visitor that I have never found it more beautiful or inviting. And whatever your stereotype of Zagreb was before, I think it might possibly change if you were to visit now. Come. 

These videos were taken during my recent visits. Flower Square on a late Saturday morning. 

Dolac market, the heartbeat of city life with its incredible fresh produce, and the majestic Zagreb Cathedral - the symbol of the city's earthquake pain - behind it. 

The greenery of the parks in central Zagreb is divine at the moment, and many are choosing to relax there with a book. After such a harrowing few weeks, the superficial view to the outsider is one of relaxation. The centre is emptier due to earthquake damage to buildings, as well as the lack of tourists. The air seems cleaner, and the addition of birdsong is welcome. 

Trams starting running again along Ilica and Ban Jelacic just a few days ago after extensive works, but before then, the people reclaimed the streets. It felt natural somehow. 

But the thing that I really noticed is just how alive Zagreb is right now, at the very local level. Seemingly wherever you go, there is something going on. Concerts in the park, open-air opera in front of the Croatian National Theatre. 

From opera to house music. Informal events all over the city, catering to an array of tastes. 

Relaxed. 

Just over a month ago, Forbes published a list of the 20 safest places to go post-corona, and Zagreb was on the list. We are certainly not post-corona yet, but Croatia did an outstanding job in containing the virus, Zagreb in particular when it had to deal with the additional disaster of the earthquakes. After days of zero new cases in all Croatia, more cases have been reported, and there are currently 897 active cases in the country. To give it some perspective with other countries, there are just 5 patients on a ventilator at time of writing (July 6), and the number of corona deaths in all of Croatia in the last 30 days is 9. 

Those who decide to visit Zagreb right now will find plenty to do as the city comes to life after its darkest hour.

These include Summer Evenings of the Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb, which I stumbled upon above a rich cultural programme available to the public, which has recently ended for this summer. 

(Photo credit Sanjin Kaštelan)

Summer at the Stross 2020 - Strossmartre - "Carefully created musical programme, art installations integrated into space, somewhat nostalgic atmosphere of the open-air cinema, painters and their canvases and a glass of excellent wine..." See more on the official website. 

(Art Park Farm Facebook)

Art Park Zagreb is a newly rejuvenated park. Located in the city center between Zagreb Strossmayer Promenade and Tomićeva street. Enjoy a great atmosphere during numerous free events take place in the Art Park green oasis.

TIP: ARTISTS ALL OVER THE WORLD ARE WELCOME TO LEAVE THEIR MARK AND CONTRIBUTE TO THIS EVER-CHANGING OPEN ART GALLERY.

Art Park Zagreb project started in 2016. and it is successfully improving Zagreb summer since. This beautiful, but once derelict park is located in the city center. It has been revitalized and became Croatia’s first Street Art Park.

Art Park is being held at a new location, Ribnjak park, as well as the Matoš u Ribičiji (Matoš at Ribnjak) project. You can visit the official Art Park Zagreb website here.

Or explore the city as a family in a way that was impossible until recently with Zagreb Time Travel, a fantastic AR/VR journey into Zagreb's past meeting its fascinating characters from yesteryear as you explore the city.  

Don't miss Summer at Tehnički 2020 - "Daily parties with DJs, theatre and dance shows and performances, plus art exhibitions by young artists and curators, occasional pub quizzes..."

(Photo Nikola Madunovic, Ljepotu.hr)

And for a little movie culture, check out the Tuškanac Summer Stage - "The Tuškanac Summer Stage was opened on July 6, 1954 but ceased to function around 1970 and was forgotten for 42 years until the restoration and the new re-opening on June 27, 2012. Even though most citizens experience the Summer Stage only as an open-air cinema, the stage is also suitable for a variety of performative projects. The seating area of the auditorium is made of wooden benches and can accommodate about 700 visitors. The film program consists of collaboration with several film festivals throughout the summer season.

Zagreb after the earthquake is coming back to life enchantingly. Come and see for yourself. 

ZAGREB, July 5, 2020 - A round table discussion called "Innovations: From Idea to Realisation", which will be held on 9 July in Zagreb, will usher in a three-day event in memory of 164th anniversary of the birth of inventor Nikola Tesla.

The event is being organised by the Nikola Tesla Association - Genius for the Future which will hold a conference on Tesla's inventions and patents and their application in the economy, in Zagreb on 11 July. 

The event is being held under the auspices of Croatian Parliament Speaker Gordan Jandrokovic, the ministries of science and economy, the City of Zagreb administration, the Croatian Chamber of Commerce, Transparency International Croatia and Rochester Institute of Technology Croatia.

ZAGREB, July 5, 2020 - The initiative called "Proud Zagreb" on Saturday afternoon held a pride ride with the aim of promoting the rights of LGBTIQ+ groups in Croatia.

According to the organisers of this protest, some 500 participants -- members of  LGBTIQ+ groups and their friends -- took part in this bicycle ride in Zagreb streets.

They also made public the names of candidates running in the Croatian parliamentary elections who signed the demands which the LGBTIQ+ groups prepared for prospective members of the new, 10th parliament.

According to them, 117 candidates supported their demands, and the lion's share of them were from the left-green coalition "We Can!".

Activist Erin Vlahovic announced some more events and actions with the purpose of promoting the rights of LGBTIQ+ groups.