Restaurants

Konoba Hvaranin (meaning ‘man from Hvar’) is a miniscule eatery that won’t impress you when you first encounter it but its not meant to either. Konoba Hvaranin is all about the food and not the looks. Hvaranin dish up local fare from the freshest ingredients and have become particularly known for their Hvaranin clams, the best tomato sauce in town with homemade gnocchi and a tribute-to-grandma-like rožata, Dalmatia’s version of crème brûlée. Ask the owner about the latest catch and he will happily exchange a word or two about the fish of the Adriatic.

A three-member family runs it where father conquers the kitchen (put sneaks out to greet guests and have a little quarrel with his son), mom makes desserts, and son runs the front of the house. Hvaranin is a popular joint for the city’s intellectuals and you will often catch a glimpse of a local journalist or writer and to prove they have been there, the wall is scattered with their signed photographs and books.

Address: Ban Mladenova 9

Tel: +385(0)91 5477 946

On either side the historic core of Split you will find two charming neighborhoods with each their personal history to tell. They are known as the oldest suburbs of Split.

Veli Varoš (Varoš) is located above Trumbićeva obala street just west of Riva, on the southern slopes of Marjan. You can venture into Varoš through many winding roads that lead you into this labyrinthine neighborhood. Easy access points include; next to St. Francis church, beyond Prokurative, or via stairs at the western end of Trumbićeva obala

This charismatic neighborhood takes more after an island village with traditional Dalmatian rural-like stone houses, narrow lanes, and scattered churches. This is becuase Varoš was developed by fishermen and farmers who came to Split to make a living and to seek shelter from the Ottoman invasion. Varoš however, was indeed later havocked by the Turks. Today, Varoš is not only the living quarters of fishermen who are surviving off their daily sardine catch but is quite a prestige joint to invest in. Varoš’s real estate market has boomed and many boutique luxury apartments have chosen the cute houses of this neighborhood to be their home.

The most notable structure in Varoš is the adorable Church of St. Mikula from the 11th century. Notice the inscriptions on the portal; the names of a couple from the neighborhood. If you pass by in spring, the roof blooms with a few colorful flowers. Other prominent churches include the Kris church with an onion dome and Gospe o' Soca.

Radunica is located east of the city across the street from the vegetable market built in a medieval urban style. Radunica was the central street of the Lučac suburb that was settled 500 years ago by the arrivals from the Republic of Poljica, an autonomous community of “peasants” from Omiš. Although Radunica is in essence a street name, the whole neighborhood is referred to as such today. The many intersecting streets are named after those original families; Kuzmanić, Ninčević, Kuzmić, Ružić, Bubalo, Trumbić, Duplančić, Dumanić, Petrić, Prvan, Vešanović, Dvornik, Čulić and so on.

Radunica is famous for its popular street festival “Days of Radunica” first held in 1994 in an attempt to spark independent Croatia’s socials and cultural identities. It is held during the last week of June every year during the celebrations of St. Petar; also the name of a church in Radunica that was destroyed in WWII. The Days of Radunica take on a real folk feel with klapa performances, traditional bingo, poetry readings, traditional food and drinks.

Salona

I have written a lot about restaurants in Dalmatia on various websites, and one thing has always struck me when doing my research - the poor use of social media to promote the restaurant and its services. 

Not all restaurants have Facebook pages, for example, and of those that do, very few are used effectively. The occasional picture of food or perhaps an upcoming event, but rarely anything more substantial than that.

It was therefore refreshing to come across the Facebook page of Bistro Toć and to discover not only an active page, but one with fresh and useful information about the menu that day. A simple enough concept - engaging with one's customers via social media - but not one which is that common in Dalmatia. Yet. 

For those of you who are looking for something different to the standard Dalmatian menu, Toć has one of the more adventurous menus in the city, with an exciting combination of internationally exotic to some quality homemage specials, such as could be found on their daily menu on Facebook earlier this week:

~ŽRNOVSKI MAKARUNI (domaći makaroni na korčulanski način) 50,00 kn
~PAŠTICADA SA DOMAĆIM NJOKIMA 50,00 kn
~PUNJENA PLJESKAVICA SA PRILOGOM 45,00 kn
~ŠPAGETI BOLOGNESE 40,00 kn
~RIŽOT SA KOZICAMA 55,00 kn
~JUNETINA SA POVRĆEM 40,00 kn

Looking for a little Mexican, or perhaps a Vindaloo to warm you up through the winter months? Something for everyone at Toć at very reasonable prices. Follow the latest offers on their Facebook page. 

Šegvića 1
21000 Split, Croatia
Phone 021 488 409
Email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Mon - Sat: 09:00 - 23:00
Sun: 10:00 - 23:00

Pizzeria Galija is smack bang in the center on a side street to Marmontova and has become a local pizza institution over the past two decades, but their menu prices have been growing as the venue ages too. 

On my annual summer breaks in Croatia, I vividly remember begging my parents to go to Galija for pizza; we always sat in the same booth with views to the pizzaiolo knocking out quattro stagionis by the dozen. Growing up in swanky Dubai, this down to earth place was a like coming to a kid's restaurant in my world. 

The interiors have not changed since its inception; dark wooden seating, porcelain tile artwork from the 80's, a long bar with stained class deco, and an open wood-fired oven. Although Galija's specialty is pizza, they also have a tempting pasta selection, salads, and meat dishes available. In summer, you can dine on the little terrace in the front.

Pizzeria Galija

Tonciceva 12, 21000 Split

+385 (0)21 347 932

We all know that pizza originally comes from Italy however, Croatians have adopted this poor man's concoction as their staple food, and if you ask an Italian, they'll agree that Split has some of the best pizza they've ever tasted.

Pizzeria Bakra is one of the oldest pizzerias in town and has been serving patrons for over 30 years. The interiors are really rustic with black wooden benches and tables with red accents and dimmed lighting, not to forget the wood-fired oven where you can see the pizzaiolo in action.

The staff at Bakra have been working there for years, giving this place its soul, and at times, attitude. Their pizza is a little on the greasy side but this is exactly why people are coming back; its a wanted grease... They also make a killer lasagne, perfectly matched with an ice cold beer.

Pizzeria Bakra is located within 5 minutes from Riva heading east down the alley next to the bishop's palace towards Bacvice.

Address: Radovanova 2, 21000 Split

Tel: +385 (0)21 488 488

Located right next to the 15^th century City Hall on the famous Pjaca (Narodni Trg), the urban chique décor of this al fresco café and bistro definitely draws curiosity; it positively drew mine… three times in one! This is a popular coffee spot for the city's elite and intellectuals for a morning chat as they observe who is striding across Pjaca in the latest fashion but as the sun starts to get, hip youth swarm to this joint to be seen on this popular square.

When the weather warms, an Istrian super-chef conquers the kitchen as he stirs up a selection of contemporary Croatian dishes crafted with premium ingredients. During one of my late summer nights, the chef started me off with a trio of seafood tartar; sea bream on bob beans, wasabi tuna on diced tomatoes, and shrimp on truffle cream cheese.

Moving on, I opted for the flavorsome beef fillet steak with aromatized potatoes, creamy truffle sauce and saffron.

With a constantly rotating dessert menu, I was served with a favorite creation of mascarpone cantuccini scoops with a wild berry sauce.

No Stress is also known to serve simple breakfasts during the season.

Sit back and don’t stress as you flavor local specialties at another dimension. This al fresco venue provides you with front row seats to Laganini, a Dalmatian expression defining their slow and laid back attitude to life.

Address: Iza lože 9, 21000 Split, Croatia