Restaurants

You don't often get promotion as good as this...

As previously reported, Bizarre Foods and Andrew Zimmern were filming in Dalmatia earlier this year, with culinary experts Secret Dalmatia arranging some visits to some of the region's more interesting eateries, including Villa Spiza. It would appear that Andrew rather enjoyed his visit, and his post on his website about the popular Split restaurant has already garnered 1000 Facebook likes in just three days. Check out the page and rest of his site here. Here is what he had to say:

Located on Croatia’s beautiful Dalmatian coast in the ancient city of Split, Villa Spiza is one of my favorite restaurants in the entire world. With wooden beams and exposed stone walls, it’s a cozy pint-size neighborhood taverna within the palace walls that holds only a handful of guests at a time. Almost every ingredient used to prepare the daily changing menu is collected that morning from the sea and hills outside of town. Foraged wild purple asparagus is prepared with shrimp, local olive oil, white wine, homemade shrimp stock and pasta. Chef Ivana Gamulin poaches fresh calves’ brains then deep fries them for a mild, delicate and delicious dish. On any given day you might find squid ink risotto, schnitzel, sweetbreads, grilled anchovies, or calamari on the chalkboard menu—and it’ll all be affordable, fresh and deeply rooted to the surrounding land and sea. From the impeccable ingredients and perfectly prepared food to the friendly atmosphere and the vinyl soundtrack, do not miss this restaurant while visiting Split.

As much as I love living on a Croatian island, when one wants to surprise a loved one with something a little different, it is not always that easy. Over the last ten years, I have played 'Hunt the Avocado' more times than I care to admit, and have driven 10 kilometres on the rumour that there was a recent shipment of fresh ginger. Life on the Sunshine Island has its plusses and minuses for sure.

Driving back from Austria yesterday, I thought it would be fun to surprise my wife with a sushi lunch delivered to her at work. Her favourite fish for sushi is salmon, not a problem if you live in Norway, but rather more of a challenge if you are in Jelsa.

I called my man from Ribarnica Brac, the fish delivery experts and suppliers to many of the city's restaurants. After some discussion as to how much salmon and tuna I would need for the meal (which had by now expanded to ten people), it was agreed I should pop in to their sister restaurant Re Di Mare to pick up my fish. 

Re di Mare is one of my favourite restaurants in Split for a number of reasons. Being owned by major fish suppliers has the benefit of ensuring that the supply of the fresh stuff will not be a problem. It is a firm local favourite, its prices are excellent, its staff a little crazy, and the location is divine for two reasons. For those looking to escape the hordes in the centre, here is a waterfront restaurant which is isolated from the rest of the city, and the effect is a timeless Dalmatian experience away from the crowds. Added to that is the view, as close to the water as any Split restaurant, and with a busy harbour of boat life to observe and appreciate.

I would have to stay for lunch...

The menu is achanging at Re di Mare, but here is what yesterday brought:

Roast fish tuna carpaccio to start with a bottle of Bevenuti Malvazija.  

Home-made black gnocchi with shrimp - divine, and all the more so for the contribution of Mr. Benvenuti.  

And the simplest and tastiest of Dalmatian cuisine - fresh grilled fish with a blitva and potato side. Seabass was on the menu, and rather good it was too.  

There was just enough room for dessert, a delightful cheesecake, Summer Rhapsody.

I could have settled in for the night with that relaxing view, but the last ferry was calling this island boy. It was time to focus on my fish and not missing that boat.  

I will admit I am not a fisherman, and my brother-in-law could not stop laughing when I bumped into him on the ferry. Here was my salmon and my tuna, the mission tomorrow to turn it into award-winning sushi for my wife.

Refrigeration was obviously the overnight priority, and it would have been hard to hide this beast from the wife in the family fridge, so I headed for Me and Mrs Jones and begged some overnight chilled storage, which was forthcoming, along with an invitation to prepare the sushi in their kitchen the next morning.  

This proved rather a challenge for this Manchester boy, who is used to seeing his fish covered in batter and wrapped in an old newspaper with chips.  

After several minutes of hacking, and one or two moments of elegant slicing, I extracted as much fresh fish as I thought I would need.  

No sushi master can succeed without the appropriate supporting team, and Total Split Most Junior was pressed into vegetable preparation, a task she took to with gusto.  

The end result? I am not sure I will be winning any awards at the Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo, but nobody died (at least not yet), and the initial fruits of my labour were available for delivery to my wife at work.  

But not before my little helper had demonstrated her chopstick skills... 

The fish was delicious, fresh and of far better quality than the butchered presentation, and it is heartening to know that such products are easily and affordably available in Split. Check out the latest from Ribarnica Split on Facebook. 

A fantastic overall fishy experience from Re di Mare and Ribarnica Brac, but it would be remiss of me not to mention the star of the day, swimming around gracefully in the centrepiece fishtank in the centre of the restaurant. 

Cleopatra is HUGE. And old. According to my fish man, Cleopatra - whose age can be guaged by her size - is about 50 years old, and weighs over 4kg. She has been living in her new home for a month now, having been caught by fishermen near the island of Pag. Just one more reason to visit Re di Mare, a fantastic experience that is not too damaging on the wallet. Check them out on Facebook. 

Due to various other projects like Total Hvar and Total Croatia News, I have not spent much time in Split this summer, which is a shame as it is a city I am coming to appreciate more and more since I started this website. I had a very productive day yesterday, however, filled with meetings, but also with the opportunity to wander through the centre, picking up the vibe of the city.

I was amazed at how much change there had been in such a short space of time. The palace is such a vibrant place, with so many businesses functioning. New ideas, new concepts, some which last, many which don't, it really is hard to keep up with all the change and new businesses opening in the centre.  

I walked past Zinfandel, which was enjoying a typically brisk lunchtime trade, and I smiled as a looked inside and nodded to the waiter inside. Despite its relatively short life, Zinfandel has managed to become one of the most popular and most established hangouts in the centre, offering a mix of Dalmatian tradition and a modern twist with great customer service and an excellent wine list. For many, it is the first introduction to the world of Croatian wine, and the knowledgeable staff do a great job in educating tourists and new arrivals.  

As I walked on, I remembered that Zinfandel did not exist when we started Total Split (which itself is less than three years old), and Mila enthusiastically blogged about the latest addition to the Split gourmet scene in May 2013.  But it really felt part of the furniture despite its youth. As other establishments opened later and shut later, Zinfandel quietly set about its business, becoming a popular local expat hangout and the most frequent location for the Expats in Split gatherings. 

Faithful to the wine roots of the region from its iconic Zinfandel name to the excellent range of local wines on offer, the wine bar/restaurant has never been afraid to experiment with Dalmatian cuisine and a modern twist, and the results from a combination of fresh organic ingredients from the Zinfandel garden, combined with some exciting modern creations from the kitchen has ensured that Zinfandel has always been an exciting place to eat, and its quality is reflected in the fact that it stands proud in the current top ten on TripAdvisor's best restaurants in Split. No mean feat in such a competitive market.  

The season is still busy in mid-September, but soon thoughts will turn to winter and many restaurants in the centre will close for a few months. Not Zinfandel. Walking through the palace late at night last December, it was one of the few places open on a dark and wet evening before Christmas.

And so it will be this year too, continuing its innovative menu and great wine selection. Added to that of course has been the regular live music, something which will continue into the winter months.  

And perhaps there was the answer to my question as to why Zinfandel is part of the furniture - it is one of the few restaurants in the centre which is open all year, and which puts plenty of energy into events and keeping the quieter winter months more alive.

A worthy addition to the Split gastro scene, and one which will be around for many years to come. Follow Zinfandel on Facebook.  

It’s no secret to anyone who knows me that Chops Grill is one of my favorite restaurants in Split. I frequent it more than any other eatery in the city and it’s the first that comes to mind when someone asks, “Where should we go for food?” They were the first to specialize in steak in a city where locals prefer lamb on the spit or veal 'under peka' and tourists search for fresh seafood from the Adriatic, but they’ve succeeded in satisfying both with their diverse (and delicious!) steak and seafood offer. I have nothing but good things to say, but one thing I never thought I’d be saying is that besides being a fabulous spot for breakfast, lunch or dinner it’s also the perfect place for a wedding! Although no stranger to hosting celebrations or events for large groups, until this year weddings were still uncharted territory for the innovative establishment. That is until someone made them an offer they couldn’t refuse. 

After getting engaged in Split last May, Londoners Tracy and James celebrated their relationship milestone moments later at Chops Grill where they were treated to champagne for the special occasion. They spent almost every night of their trip there and became fast friends with the owners and Split hospitality power couple Jasmina Garbin and Igor Kruscic. On their last night in Croatia, they knew they wanted to come back and not just for another visit, but for their special day and with their closest family and friends at their favorite restaurant in Split so they asked if it was possible. Always up for a challenge and not about to disappoint their new friends Chops Grill happily accepted and Jasmina added destination wedding planner to her long list of special talents and skills aiding with the organization of the event from photographer to daily excursions. The London based couple returned to Split once more to finalize details and everything else was arranged via email before the big day this May.

The restaurant proved to be an ideal venue for small to medium size weddings. The head table seated the bride and groom along with their parents under the gazebo, which faces the main restaurant hall that sat the remaining 50 guests. High bar tables were placed at the entrance of the restaurant for the cocktail hour while the dance floor, cake table, bar with bartender, DJ with AV equipment and lighting were all set up at the back of the restaurant. Dancing lasted until 23:30 when those not too partied out strolled next door to their sister bar Paradiso where the upstairs private section, which fits 30-40 people, was set up for the after party. The extensive food menu left no tastes unturned and included various appetizers, a choice of meat or seafood entrees with several options of sides, as well as two types of salads and three types of sauces. They offered 4 choices of desserts along with the wedding cheesecake and on top of that an after hour snack of cheeses. 

Aside from picking the perfect venue, one of the most stressful factors in planning a wedding is weather, but even more so if the venue chosen isn’t fully enclosed. But not so with Chops, as the new upgrade of the movable glass walls this year allows them to operate in all types of weather and transform the restaurant in just minutes from completely open, including a retractable roof, to fully enclosed. That means anxious brides need not frantically check the forecast or have a plan B in place as Chops can adapt at a moments notice for Split’s sporadic summer storms or for the winter "bura" winds.     

Tracy and James were extremely satisfied and their parents were equally impressed even saying several times that they want their other children’s weddings hosted by Chops. In their own words…“Last dinner in Split at our favourite restaurant with the most welcoming friendly staff, they helped make our wedding so special and amazing, we will be eternally grateful!!”…“Absolutely fantastic restaurant. Chops Grill recently hosted our sons wedding reception. The food was amazing and the staff could not do enough for us. Would highly recommend it. Thank you Jasmina and everyone concerned. Your hospitality and attention to detail was just perfect!”

So if you’re looking for a location in Split for a small to medium size wedding, destination or not, or any other type of event I would definitely recommend you check out Chops Grill. You can contact Jasmina directly with any questions or inquiries at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or via their Facebook page.

For years I wished for a rooftop restaurant in Split to enjoy views of the self-proclaimed “Most Beautiful City in the World” and the sparkling Adriatic Sea as well as the almost year-round mild Mediterranean climate. Then exactly one year ago today it finally happened when Restoran Paradigma answered my prayers and opened their doors and rooftop to many satisfied customers. 

It’s been a record breaking year for the young Split restaurant, which began less than a month after opening when they ranked in the Top 10 on Trip Advisor among over 200 restaurants in the city. The busy summer season eventually slowed down but Paradigma definitely did not and instead beat the odds and celebrated many more milestones within it’s first year as a smashing success in Split and Croatia.

By November all service staff at Paradigma completed level 2 wine qualification through WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust) which is regarded as one of the world’s leading providers of wine education. During sleepy winter months when most bars and restaurants in Split hit hibernation mode Paradigma managed to fully book out their wine, champagne, Selvapiana and beer dinners with specially crafted menus to match.

The new year brought the biggest achievement to date when on January 1, 2015 Paradigma gained membership in Jeunes Restaurateurs D’Europe, a presitigious association of young European restaurateurs, which is almost unheard of for a restaurant that has been open for less than a year. They joined over 340 of the top restaurants throughout 12 countries in Europe, 70% of which are Michelin starred.

Now shining brightly among the Michelin stars, Paradigma was recognized as the 3rd Best Restaurant in Dalmatia and the 11th Best in Croatia at the Dobri Restorani awards. Instead of slowing down after so much success they sped up even more in Spring launching their Spring/Summer tasting menu as part of the Dalmacija Wine Expo as well as the Paradox Challenge, which introduced progressive dinners to Split with sister venues Wine and Cheese Bar Paradox and patisserie Creme de la Creme.

Now that the summer heat is upon us Paradigma turns it up yet again and invites faithful customers and visitors to Split alike to sit under the sails of their rooftop deck and indulge in the flavors of the Mediterranean. In July, Paradigma is offering a Summer Rose Lunch from noon till 4pm; a three course lunch menu paired with summery rose wines from Provencial winery Saint Andre de Figuiere.

While we are used to seeing many restaurants struggle to find their footing within their first year of business, Paradigma has succeeded in soaring above and beyond in a city not previously hailed for it’s culinary offer. In fact, it’s hard to imagine them setting the bar any higher, but I have a good feeling they still have plenty of tricks up their gastronomic sleeve and I can’t wait to see, smell and taste them for many more years to come...

Happy Birthday Paradigma! Here's to many, many more!!!

“Today Paradigma turns one. It's been an exciting year and we thank all our valued guests for their continued patronage as we continue to grow with you. Come and celebrate with us and enjoy a drink on the house with lunch or dinner.” 

Be sure to follow their Facebook page for more pictures, posts and special offers from Paradigma.

I don't get to dine in the best restaurants of Split very often, partly due to time, but mostly due to money, for although blogging for a living may be fun, it is not the quickest route to millionaire status.

Which is why it is nice to have friends who do dine at the better places on a regular basis, and whose recommendations I trust. One such example is this lovely overview of five of the top Split restaurants from a dedicated foodie, which I received this afternoon, giving an overview of some of the better restaurants which have opened in the city recently. Enough from me, and over to him...  

The restaurant scene in Split has changed quite a bit in the past two years and more and more restaurants are switching from regular, old fashioned eateries to modern and hip places with interesting dishes. Some of the most interesting we list here for you to enjoy and test.

Mazzgoon
Probably the most interesting of all the newly opened restaurants in Split is Mazzgoon. Nothing typical at this place! From their black shrimp burger to weekends of Brazillian cusisine, Mazzgoon is a very popular and very hip place. Perfect for a group of friends or couples, the chef and staff of Mazgoon have created a new classic. That never repeats! Located in the very heart of historic quarters, and open year round, Mazzgoon is definitely a place to visit over and over. Facebook page.

Paradigma 
Split has had very few attempts of fine dining restaurants. The scene was not right for them and not all of the owners/chefs were up to the task. Paradigma is here to shift the paradigm and set new standards. Proper fine dining restaurant was needed in the historic center and Paradigma delivers not only a stunning ambiance but also imaginative dishes and very tasty new experiences. The list changes by the season but many still remember their slow cooked octopus with caponata. The wine list is just superb and something one cannot easily find on this side of the Adriatic! Facebook page.

F de Mar
Boasting the most beautiful view of Split, F de Mar is one of the nicest places for romantic dinner in town. While the venue is a very popular place for many for their morning coffee ritual, it soon became one of the most eateries as well. The innovative, modern twist on the timeless Dalmatian classics makes this one of the best restaurants in town. Chilled wine and a front row seat watching the yachts and sailboats with stunning Split cityline in the background. You don't need anything else! Facebook page.

Bepa
Not exactly a restaurant but a very cool seafood fast food locate din the very heart of historic Split, Bepa set new standards and made sea food exciting and tasty in a different way, From the fish burger, fried sardines with chilly...all the way to desserts, Bepa brings great new tastes and at superb value! Last, but not the least, Bepa is a perfect spot for people watching away from the every popular Riva promenade. Facebook page.

Brasserie on 7
Located right on the promenade, Brasserie on 7 is the home to Split's finest burger! And not only that, Brasseire on 7 is also offering one the tastiest selection of desserts in any of the local restaurants. Ideal for people watching, Brasserie is a perfect place for all meals in the day and despite the relatively short menu. Their signature crusted pork tenderloin and sea bass with olives and tomatoes are food to go back for! Facebook page.

All in all, we expect several new restaurants to open in Split in 2015 but these will be great to revisit (over and over). From newly opened sushi bars, traditional taverns, wine bars and ever expanding selection of great beers offered, Split is becoming a superb foodie destination!