Nowhere in the world is running chores in public offices a joy; it usually means a heap of paperwork, lack of guidance, moody service staff, and running around like a headless chicken. 

In many countries, technology has taken over, processes have become paperless, and things can be done in just one location. Well, that phase still hasn't come to Croatia... and buying a used car here requires at least 10 pit stops, perhaps even 11 if you count therapy for PTSD afterwards, before you can drive away as the new owner.

Firstly, you have found the used vehicle that you want, and you have agreed on a price, and you will soon process the payment.

Step 1 - Notary Public

Find an authorized notary public where, together with the car owner, a purchase contract will be drafted and signed by both parties (Buyer and Seller), identifying the car and agreed selling price. The notary public will verify the identities of both Buyer and Seller and the document will be stamped and signed, ready for the next step. It is recommended you get at least two copies. If the owner doesn’t want to be dragged along through the next few steps, you can also draft a power of attorney giving you the right to do everything without him/her. 

Tip: To avoid to much driving around and searching for parking, we suggest you find a notary public close to where you will pop in for step 2. Therefore, park in the large public parking across from the Municipality building on Domovinskog Rata and find a notary public near the bus station adjacent.

Step 2 - Tax Office

On the third floor of the Municipality building on Domoviskog Rata, you can pop into room number 36 where you will get a bill of 5% of the cars value (open 7am to 3pm). You are unable to make the payment to the tax office and need to physically go to a nearby bank to pay the fee.

Step 3 - Bank

With your bill for car tax payment (5% of the car’s official value, not necessarily the value you you bought it for), go to a nearby bank to make a payment, either by cash or card. Directly behind the municipality building is an OTP bank for instance but an bank is also located in the tall Lavčević building across the main road.

Step 4 - Tax Office

After receiving payment approval n receipt from the bank, bring the paperwork back to room 36 where a payment approval awaits you to bring to the Traffic Police department.

Step 5 - Traffic Police Department

The Police Station is located on Trg hrvatske bratske zajednice 9, right next to the Croatia Osiguranje building nearby the courthouse. Walk into the right (you don’t need a number yet) and go directly to Counter 1 with your sales contract, tax payment confirmation, and ID card. She will give you a blank form with 35kn scribbled in the corner (don’t panic, you don’t need to fill it out), and two bills to pay for new plates (if needed) and owner change.

Step 6 – Bank

After you got the bills from Counter 1, pop next door to Splitska Banka to pay the fees (Cash Only!) on the two checks. About four autographs later, and a payment confirmation slip, you no longer need to make any payments…at least not old skool style in a bank.

Step 7 – Tax Stamps in Photo Olga

Across the Police Station is Photo Studio Olga and you’ll need to pop in here to buy tax stamps worth 35kn (remember the 35kn scribbled onto the blank form mentioned in Step 5). Yep, you heard me right; good old tax stamps bought in a photo studio J

Step 8 - Traffic Police Department

Return to the station and print out a queue number (press number 3 which will eventually guide you to Counter 11 when your time comes). Now just hand over the blank form, payment receipts, tax stamps, the old registration AND the license plates of the car. The lady will process new registration documents and hand over a new set of license plates. Before you start this process, ask what numbers are available in case you want something in particular. If you want to order a number, it’s a whole different ball game which you should discuss at Counter 1 when you first come in.

Step 9 - Insurance Office

Before getting your care re-registered through technical testing, you’ll need to renew your compulsory insurance. Unfortunately, rate shopping for a compulsory insurance policy doesn’t really pay dividends as the price is regulated by the government and depends solely on how many kW your cars has, and not its value or age. You can buy a policy at the Technical Testing center directly, the road leading up to it, or elsewhere. If you are looking at buying a full insurance policy, you might as well get them both from the same insurance company where in that case, rate shopping really pays off. We suggest you ask the financial advisors at OVB (www.ovb.hr) who can source much cheaper offers without charging you.

Step 10 - Technical Testing

Yey, you have come to the final phase of this lengthily and painful process! With insurance and new car paperwork in hand, drive over to the EuroDaus Technical Testing Center on Hercegovačka ulica 59. Park in the queue marked ‘Osobna Vozila’ and go indoors to register at the first counter. Go back in the car and wait in line until the technical crew instructs you further. Two counter stops and about 900kn later, you can drive out as a new car owner.

Unirent is a local car rental agency with offices in all major cities in Croatia as well as other international airports in the country. 

They have a varied fleet from budget vehicles to luxury SUVs, manual and automatic transmission, Vans, and 4x4s. Cooler yet, your preferred pick-up and drop-off location is not in a city with a Unirent office, Unirent can organize you get your car anywhere in the country if need be. 

Unirent is one of the cheapest rental agencies in Split with cards available for less than 200KN per day, depending in the time of year. 

Additionally, Unirent run a chauffeur service where they will drive you in comfort in a luxury vehicle with all the frills to your Croatian destination of choice. 

Other than in the airport in Kaštela, the downtown office in Split is conveniently located near Riva by the Church of St. Francis up the Šperun street. 

Central Reservations

Tel: +385 (0)21 797 327

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W: www.uni-rent.net

A well-established transportation rental company from Hvar opened a branch office in Split under the name, Split Rent Agency. Split Rent Agency has a stall along near Riva in the season on Obala Lazareta 3. Here you will find every holiday transportation tool under the stars from boats, cars, scooters, bikes, and motorcycles. Additionally services include transfers, excursions, and accommodation.

Scooter Rental

When the sun is shining, Split’s citizens whip out their scooters from their garages and this becomes their favorite source of transportation in the months to come. Beat the traffic and blend in with the locals by opting for a scooter during your stay in Split.

Split Rent Agency has an expansive scooter fleet ranging from smaller 50cc engines, 125cc and larger 250cc engines. The prices for a day rental ranges from 250-400KN and a reduction in price should you opt for a one-week rental. Aprilla, Gilera, Piaggio are the preferred brands and inclusive in the price are all necessary insurances and taxes, and for a surcharge you can get a GPS device to make you Split navigation easier.

Boat Rental

The best way to explore the Adriatic is by boat so why don’t you grab a boat for the day and explore the coast along Split or hop onto the nearby islands of Brač, Šolta, Hvar, or even Vis to discover secluded coves and ancient villages.

Split Rent Agency has a varied fleet of boats from basic to deluxe inflatables with 70-280hp engines and an upscale 25ft Four Winns powerboat. For 200-400KN per day, you can enjoy the freedom of sea cruising on the Adriatic.

Additionally, you can rent cars such as Opel Astra of Fiat Punto, BMW motorcycles, and KONA.

Split Rent Agency

www.split-rent.com

Obala Lazereta 3

21000 Split

Tel: +385 (0) 1 742-946

Mob: +385(0) 91 591 7111


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For budget commuting, Split has an intra-city public bus network operated by Promet Split that reaches every nook and cranny of the town and its suburbs. If you have a ticket in hand, you can enter from any entrance into the bus but if you are purchasing a ticket, take the front door to pay your ticket to the bus driver. When you leave, exit from the back doors. The buses are not air-conditioned so in the summer months it can be quite sticky,

Here is a survival guide to using the bus within Split.

Zones

The public bus system is split into four (4) zones. Zone 1 covers the whole peninsula of Split reaching the border of Zone 2 before Solin and after Žnjan. Zone 2 covers the town of Solin, Stobreč, Podstrana, and Klis. The third sphere, Zone 3 covers Kaštela, Dugopolje, and reaches Dugi Rat on the southern coast. The last Zone 4 reaches the town of Trogir and Omiš.

Bus Stations

There are a few main stations scattered in the city where most busses stop. The main public bus station (Sukojišan) is on the main Domovinskog rata road, 1 km north of the palace. There is also a popular stop just before on the same road adjacent to the municipality building (Opčina). In town, main stops are in front of the Prima1 shopping mall adjacent to the National Theatre of Split (HNK), next to the vegetable market (Tržnica) on the eastern side of the palace, on the western end of Riva (Sv. Frane), and just after the main regional bus station on the port (Trajektna Luka).

Pricing & Validity

You can purchase your single tickets with the bus driver on board; cash only, preferably in exact change. The price for an adult ticket within one zone is 11KN, for two zones its 13KN, three zones 17KN, and four zones 21KN.

The price for children aged 6 to 10 years old is 5KN for any zone and all zones. If you are travelling with luggage, there may be a surcharge of 5KN.

You can purchase monthly cards and 10-trip cards in the kiosks at main stations such as Sukojišan, Opčina, and Tržnica.

Your ticket is valid for 45mins within one zone, 65mins for two zones, 85mins for three zones, and 105mins for four zones. Within that period you can traverse within the purchased zones in whichever direction.

You can find the full list of pricing here. 

Five Important Routes

Here are a few bus routes from town that will take you to popular city highlights.

Marjan Park

Bus 21, 1 Zone, from Sv. Frane

To get to Bene Beach in the Marjan Forest Park, hop onto bus 21 at the Sv. Frane stop west of Riva. It departs once every hour from 9:30 to 22:30 every day. You won’t miss either of the stops as both are end stations.

Žnjan Beach

Bus 8, 1 Zone, from Tržnica and Opčina

To get to the popular Žnjan beach from town, hop onto bus 8.  This is a circular route, meaning that it doesn’t matter in which direction you go, you will end up in Žnjan on the coast. The quickest, however, is to hop on the right side of the road when facing south. It departs 2-3 times per hour from 5:30 to 22:30 (starting from Žnjan).

Poljud Football Stadium

Bus 17, 1 Zone, from Tržnica

Watching Hajduk play? Hop onto bus 18 at the Tržnica stop heading towards Špinut and hop off when you see the imposing stadium.

City Center One

Bus 18, 1 Zone, from Tržnica or National Theatre of Split (HNK)

For a day of shopping in a mall, take bus 18 from the Tržnica or HNK stop in the direction of

Brnik. The bus departs 3-4 times per hour.

Split International Airport and Trogir

Bus 37, 3 Zones, from Sukojišan

At the main bus station at Sukojišan, hop on bus 37 departing every 20 minutes. It stops on the main road in front of the airport and continues to the town of Trogir (4 zones).

You can find the full timetable here. 

For further information, contact Promet Split on +385(0)21 407 999 or visit www.promet-split.hr

Oryx rent-a-car has a fleet of over 1700 vehicles, ranging from small to medium class. Volkswagen, Seat, Škoda and Audi are ORYX’s preferred brands starting with the hip eco-friendly VW Up and luxe options such as the Audi Q7 available.

ORYX have offices throughout Croatia; in the hinterland and stretching the coastline from Istria to Dubrovnik. This makes Oryx and ideal choice for travellers as you can select a varying pick-up and drop-off locations in Croatia.

All vehicles are air-conditions and on request you can get extra frills that make your travelling more comfortable such as children car seats, roof carriers, GPS, DVD, TV, and Wi-Fi connectivity.

ORYX offer various packages that will meet your demands, such as affordable long-term rentals, leasing, cargo rentals, and chauffeur services.

ORYX Rent-a-Car

www.oryx-rent.hr

In Split there is a branch office in the airport arrivals hall and in Split town center:

Split City

Sv. Petra Staroga 1

21000 Split

Tel: +385 (0)21 318 800


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Open Monday—Friday: 08:00—15:00
and Saturday: 09:00—14:00. Sundays on Request.

Split Airport

Kaštela

Tel: +385 (0)21 895 164


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Open
Monday—Sunday 08:00—20:00

Central Reservation Office

Ljudevita Posavskog 7a, Sesvete

Tel: +385 (0)1 2900 333
Fax: +385 (0)1 2900 306
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Open Monday—Friday: 08:00—16:00

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On Sunday April 14^th, the sun was shining over Split; real t-shirt weather. In my time here, I have never taken a turn up the mountain of Kozjak above Kaštela but this would be the day. Being born behina a 4x4 steering wheel, I have missed driving off-road since moving here from the desert of Dubai so I got an old school Lada Niva 4x4 and off I went on a discovery on the back roads of Kozjak. 

Although any normal car can battle the pebbly paths, a little hand brake action in a Niva just had to be tried to infuse a little adrenaline into my day.

On the main coastal highway towards Trogir from Split, I look a turn right at Kaštel Novi across the main graveyard. Going up the road I saw signage to the “Biblical Garden Stomorija” and continued my way through the rugged terrain, passing residential homes until I arrived in what seemed to be heaven in disguise.

I landed in Eden’s paradise, a trimmed and tranquil garden with the 1189 little church of Marija od Špiljana in its center. The concept of the garden is biblical, meaning that plants in the area are those mentioned in the Bible. Actually, there are more than 125 plant species noted in scriptures and throughout the garden there are signage that tell you what the various plants are such as a rose garden, Jude’s tree, laurel, acacia, spices, aromatic herbs, apple trees, vines, olive trees, fig tree are more; all species that have been growing on the Kozjak mountain for centuries.

The garden was founded in 1998 in honor of the biblical flora but throughout the tranquil garden are a few other biblical references. At the entrance to the garden is a memorial stone by Marko Gugić with the inscription, "In memory of the second visit of the Holy Father John Paul II we founded this garden at Stomorija above the bay.” - People of Kaštela on 27 September 1998. On site, the Pope’s Olive was planted and under the even older olive trees in the area ‘Jidro,’ is a Column of Stone Megaliths honoring the great men of Croatia who were inspired by the Bible in their work; Juraj Dalmatinac who built various alters, St. Jeronim who translated the Bible into Latin and Bartol Kašić who translated it into Croatian, poet Marko Marulić, and Ivan Meštrović who made sculptured of biblical themes. 

A waterway flows through the garden and on an islet is a wooden sculpture of Noah’s Ark by renowned artist Vasko Lipovac. Across the little stone bridge is a large lawn, perfect for a Sunday family picnic with breathtaking views over the Bay of Kaštela. At the far corner of the lawn you will pass a large apple sculpture, a very important symbol in the bible, leading you on to a miniature vineyard with vines of Carlifornian Zinfandel, Italian Primitivo and Croatian Kaštelanski Crljenak, all the same sort with a different name which call came from this very mountain (click to read about the Croatian Zinquest).

The Biblical Garden in Kaštela is really a pleasant surprise and provides a perfect day-trip escape for the family from Split. Bring along a blanket and some sandwiches and just take in the island vistas in the surroundings of greenery. The garden is open on all days during the day.

Travellers visiting Split often miss a trip to the ruins of the Roman city of Salona only five kilometers from the city as it has been overshadowed by the popular Diocletian’s Palace, built later.

The first traces of life in Salona began in the first millennium BC when the Greeks set up a marketplace here. After the Romans conquered the region, a city was formed and became the capital city of the Roman province of Dalmatia. Other than vandalism by the Venetians, Salona was mostly destroyed in the 6^th century during the invasions of the Avars and Slavs where after, the citizens of Salona took refuge in Diocletian’s Palace. Actually, Salona was Diocletian’s hometown before he retired to his new palace in Split.

Amongst the impressive remains, you will find the tops of the arches of a 1^st century aqueduct where water came in from the nearby River Jadro, as well as the relics of thermal baths used by Romans.

In Salona you will find the magnificent remains of a 2^nd century amphitheater, which was believed to have a capacity of up to 20,000 spectators. Unfortunately, Venetians destroyed the amphitheater in the 17^th century, stripping it of marble to use for their palace. An interesting feature, unseen in other Roman amphitheaters, is that it has underground channels.

Another fascinating site is the Manastirine, one of the largest open graveyards where early Christian martyrs were buried. Although archeological digs here are not complete, one thousand sarcophagi, burial chapels, and graves have been discovered, one believed to be that of Saint Domnius (Sv. Duje), patrol saint of Split and 3^rd century bishop of Salona. By the entrance to the Manastirine is a sarcophagus with the remains of the 19^th century Croatian archeologist Don Frane Bulić who devoted his career to the study of Early Christian artifacts, particularly those in Salona. Adjacent it’s the Tusclulum, once the base of Don Frane Bulić’s archeological work and today a museum.

In the episcopal complex, you will also come across the ruins of Early Christian graveyards with basilicas from the 4^th century. Next to the city walls is the oldest, ‘basilica of the five martyrs’ built over the graves of five martyrs; priest Asterius and four soldiers of the imperial guard. On the site, there is also a 5^th century three-nave cathedral and an impressive octagonal baptistery. Other than the two basilicas to be seen in Salona, an additional eight have been discovered however, their movable monuments are now displayed in the Archaeological Museum of Split.

To get to Salona (Solin), take bus 37 towards to Trogir from the main bus station (Sukoišan) on Domoviskog rata.

Located directly west of the Riva sea front at the fountain roundabout is the narrow Church of St. Francis (Sv. Frane) with its monastery.

When the Franciscans arrived in the region in the early 13^th century, they erected their own monastery at the (then) city border. They built the complex above a 5^th century Early Christian church dedicated to a Salona martyr, St. Felix.

In the 14^th century, a small cloister was added to the structure bearing Romanesque characteristics however; the entire complex has undergone various reconstructions and restorations throughout the centuries and thus has changed its original appearance considerably.

Within the church you will find an impressive crucifix painted by Blaž Jurjev of Trogir in the 15th century. There are also numerous ancient tombs of prominent citizens of Split such as humanist Marko Marulić (1450 - 1524), composer Ivan Lukačić (1587 - 1648), and poet Jeronim Kavanjin (1643- 1714). The church also has a rich library containing the 15^th century “Lectionary,” the first book that was printed in the Croatian language using the Latin alphabet.

South of the monastery is a charming fisherman’s port called Matejuška. A pleasant walk along Matejuška provides the best vantage point of Split’s seafaring culture as locals from the Veli Varoš neighborhood prepare their catch along the long pier in the morning and catch up for a chat on the benches. At the end of the pier is a wind compass sculpture showing the winds of the region. In the last century, this port was a shipyard.

The cellars of Diocletian’s Palace are housed within the southern half of the palace. The floor plan showcases a mirror image of the emperor’s residence above as this substructure acted as supporting walls. The basement halls was the entranceway into the palace by sea via the Brass Gate and previously, when the sea reached the very walls of the palace, boats would be able to berth in front of the gate to drop off supplies or receive noble guests. As you pass through the basement towards the north you will reach the stairs that lead you directly up the Peristil Square.

During the time of the emperor, the basement was largely used for storage of foodstuff and wine. Actually, the remnant of a large press, which was used to turn the grapes into wine, is still visible today showcasing that Diocletian surely enjoyed a glass or two of his own Dalmatian wines down here.

As you meander through the underground, find the circular room and notice the impeccable acoustics; above, this room was the foyer to the emperor’s bedrooms and Diocletian would be warned if anyone was coming at night due to the echoes left by anyone passing through. Emperor Diocletian was very paranoid about being killed and had specifically requested this feature; apparently with success as he is the only Roman emperor to have died of natural causes.

After the fall of the Roman Empire and the consequent settlement of various civilizations, the basement was used for various purposes. In the Middle Ages it was inhabited, and eventually it turned into a water storage facility but through time, the basement got clogged up completely. As additional houses were built above the basement, they drilled holes into their floors in order to use the basement is a sewage tank and garbage dump.

Croatian architect and the country’s first conservator, Vicko Andrić who constructed the Riva harbor-front devoted his retirement to the conservation of Diocletian’s Palace and began an excavation of the cellars in the 1850’s. Andrić drained and cleaned the cellars and archeological discoveries are still being made to this day, particularly in the far corners of the basement. Amongst other finds, older remains from the previous civilization of Aspalatos were also found.

Today, the cellars are open to the public although the eastern part was only opened up in May 1995 after the celebration of the patron saint of Split, Sv. Dujan (St. Domnium). The main hall of the basement houses tacky souvenir stalls where tourists can buy a reminder of their stay in Split. The other areas of the basement reveal a labyrinthine room layout, ideal for an archeological discovery. The basement is also a popular venue for various events such as art exhibitions, weddings, and the International Flower Show held in May.

The Temple of Jupiter is located just west of Peristil, at the end of a narrow passageway called Kraj Sveti Ivana accessible between the Skočibučić-Lukaris and Cipci Palace. Originally, there were three temples to the right of Peristil; Kibel, Venus, and Jupiter however, only the latter remains today.

The Temple of Jupiter was built around the 3^rd century, about the same time is the palace itself. Jupiter was the name of Diocletian’s father and was also the highest Roman god, the god of the sky, and the god of thunder. This god was highly worshipped during the Imperial era until the Roman Empire came under Christian rule. Emperor Diocletian believed he was a reincarnation of Jupiter and thus positioned this temple directly adjacent to his mausoleum, not St. Domnius Cathedral.

The Temple of Jupiter is a miniscule rectangular temple with a very characteristic vaulted ceiling featuring a myriad of stone blocks, each with a different central motif. Boarding the ceiling and walls is a very ornate frieze all around. The temple is elevated as below it hides the crypt, which is a typical character of a Roman temple. The doorway features very intricate moldings that tell a story in itself. It is considered to be one of the best-preserved Roman temples in the world.

At the fall of the Roman Empire in the Middle Ages, the temple was converted into Saint John’s Baptistery (Sv. Ivan Krstitelj), named after the Archbishop of Split. This meant the addition of large 12^th century baptismal font, which allowed for total immersion according to the Byzantine rite. Carved on the font is previous Croatian King Zvonimir and other notables at the time. Today, the font is used by visitors who make a wish by tossing in a coin.

Along the back wall are two medieval stone tombs where the remains of Bishop John (8^th century) and Bishop Lawrence (11^th century) lie. In between the two coffins is a large statue of John the Baptist by famous Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović.

Outside the entranceway lays a Roman sarcophagus and guarding the temple is a headless graphite sphinx (from 1500 BC), which Diocletian brought from Luxor. Directly next to the temple is Split narrowest street called “Pusti me proć,“ meaning let me through.

The temple is largely closed during the winter months however, they are open during the long tourist season and admission only costs 5KN.