August 19, 2019 - Slobodna Dalmacija met with tourism workers in Split to discuss the 2019 summer season and how they would help to improve it in the future.

“Split is full of tourists and has about the same number as last year. Whether it's a little more or less, no one wants to reveal accurate information. However, what is of interest to us, who work in tourism and live off of it, is to bring in less of the 'cheaper' tourists because it would reduce the crowds (which in the peak season are created in the city port), but, with a condition for those tourists who come to us to have higher spending power,” says Đani Ponoš, owner of the rent-a-car and tourist agency "Flarent" with two outlets in the city center - in the port and the nearby Tourist Palace.

What can local and state governments do in this regard?

“In order to get more higher-spending tourists, investors should be able to obtain permits to build better hotels and four-and five-star hotels more easily, so that we don't have one hundred thousand apartments in Split which are driving down the price of accommodation, bringing in cheaper guests.”

The plans are to have hotels on the East and West Coast.

“The East Coast cannot be solved so quickly, and the Hotel Marjan needs to be remodeled on the West Coast where ships can be moored, as Željko Kerum put it. It would attract really good guests, which would definitely change the image of the city,” Ponoš thinks.

But how much will the best guests be willing to cough up if, in the heat of the season, they have to wait in hours of traffic just to get there?

Ponoš thinks a tunnel is a solution.

“Crowds can be solved with one more exit or entrance to the ferry port. One with a tunnel with an entrance near the station and an exit near the second Police Station in Bačvice, or an entrance and exit through the existing tunnel for Kopilica. Because this metro serves no purpose anyway.”

Ponoš believes the metro tunnel is the solution for another road access.

“A big problem in the season is where to park and the lack of space for car rental agencies to hand over vehicles. Just look at where some taxi drivers disembark passengers, at the pedestrian crossings at the entrance to the ferry port. But for years, there has been a discussion of solving parking problems by building underground garages in the center of Split. But it’s all talk,” Ponoš said. 

Ponoš also believes that the local government can't do anything to solve the problems of the season by next summer.

“Nothing can be resolved quickly. Tourism has been building for years. While everyone in Split is busy in August, the number of guests in the pre-season and post-season through congress and health tourism should increase. We cannot only offer the sun and the sea, so that in winter in Split all hotels are empty, while in Zagorje they are full non-stop,” she adds. 

Roko Kačunić, owner of Terminal F at the Tourist Palace, notes that in Split we have about 13 kilometers of beaches, from Žnjan to Marjan, but that we need to sell the destination better.

“This is what hotels will do for us,” emphasizes Kačunić, adding that in the next two years, "Ambassador" and "Marjan" will open, which will bring better guests. He says it was because of the Marjan Hotel that his family owned three catering establishments on the West Riva. But as it took ages for Marjan to undergo renovation, they eventually sold.

But now, the unfinished hotel has been bought by the Adris Group.

“It's a huge plus for our city. Because this Rovinj company knows how to make a destination. They will make serious money there and do a great job. It will be crazy,” Kačunić adds.

The Split Port Authority plans to move the truck traffic that supplies the islands to a new port in Stinice. Furthermore, customs will be shifted to the breakwater, thus freeing up Gat. Sv. Duje. This is important as it will provide new meters of operational shoreline for mooring ships in domestic traffic. But at the same time, the number of mini-cruisers is increasing, as there are ten more each year.

“I have to commend the Split Port Authority for everything they do and for the effort they have made to give us better places to moor. After regular service, we have priority in Split over foreign yachts. I am now the fifth ship moored parallel to the shore, with two more behind me. For the sake of greater security and comfort of the guests, it would be easier if, at the most, four or five of us were connected,” says Antonio Vuković, commander and co-owner of the Mlini ship.

He adds that small boat companies are developing too fast concerning the infrastructure on the Adriatic and that the crowds in the port of Split can be reduced if the boarding and offloading of guests took place on other days, not just on weekends. However, it is a little harder to execute because of the plans of the agencies, the airlines and the wishes of the guests.

At the taxi stand below the green market, Čedo Pocrnić, a former graphics editor at Slobodna Dalmacija who has worked as a taxi driver in recent years, gave his two sense.

“Local and state governments need to regulate the legal framework that makes it now possible for huge price differences in taxis. The whole evil begins at the airport where the Kaštela and Trogir carriers rob the tourists who land there, and when they arrive in Split, they are afraid to get into a taxi. This is evident on the ground because we have fewer trips,” says Pocrnić, adding:

"Some of my colleagues behave like the rest of society, with the example of those at the top. We are moral in this view because the state has allowed us to charge foreigners as much as 80 kuna per kilometer. It is robbery and it is normal for guests to be upset and scared to ask for the price,” he says and notes that during the hustle and bustle, it is not possible for a taxi to leave the port, though it still costs the passenger in the end.

“While stuck in traffic, the taximeter still runs,” Čedo concludes.

Pocrnić’s colleague, Šime, ho had been a Promet bus driver for 27 years, says that the rulebook by which Minister Butković sent taxi drivers from all over Croatia to Split and Dubrovnik should be changed, because it hijacked passengers from Split concessionaires.

“As if there weren't enough Uber drivers and other app-based companies. So, in the sun, we fry for two, three hours waiting for passengers,” says Šime, and adds that the commotion in the city was so crazy that, as a result, his passengers often jumped out of the taxi fearing they would be late to board.

Excerpts translated from Slobodna Dalmacija

To read more about travel in Croatia, follow TCN’s dedicated page. 

August 18, 2019 - There are more tourist departures than arrivals at the Split Airport and Ferry Port this weekend, showing the first signs that this year's tourist season is nearing its end in Dalmatia.

"On Saturday and Sunday, about 70,000 passengers and 12,500 vehicles will travel through the Split ferry port, of which about 60 percent are tourists returning from the islands, and 40 percent are those who are leaving for the islands," said Jelena Ivulić, head of Jadrolinija in Split, for Splitski Dnevnik.

According to Ivulić, three extra ferry lines for Supetar (Brač) - Split were introduced on Saturday due to the increased return of passengers from the island to the mainland.

The departures at Split Airport are already more noticeable than the arrivals. 

"On Saturday, 115 aircraft will land and take off with about 30,000 passengers, of which about 16,000 are departing and 14,000 are arriving,” said Mate Melvan, head of the Split Airport Reception and Dispatch Service.

According to him, in the first two weeks of August, the number of passengers through the Split Airport increased by about 4 percent compared to the same period last year.

Melvan also said that by mid-August, traffic at the Split Airport had increased by about 150,000 passengers compared to the same period last year.

"About 2.2 million passengers have flown through the Split Airport so far this year, with an estimated 1.1 million more expected by the end of the year," Melvan said.

Recall, Split Airport experienced record numbers this summer. Just after it unveiled its brand new terminal building, the airport recorded the busiest month ever - 723,048 passengers in July,  which was up 4%. From January to July, Split handled 1,825,166 travelers, which is up 6.4% or an additional 109,029 passengers compared to last year. 

There were also more passengers departing at the Split bus station on Saturday than arriving.

"About 400 buses will pass through the Split bus station on Saturday, and we increased the number of bus routes to Zagreb due to the increased number of returnees from holidays," said Split Bus Station Director Mate Jujnović.

To read more about travel in Croatia, follow TCN’s dedicated page. 

August 16, 2019 - A guide to some of the best things going on in Split this weekend.

We welcome yet another summer weekend in Split with a growing list of things to do. Sunny and hot weather will prevail throughout Dalmatia on Friday, with air temperatures ranging between 21 and 25°C in the morning and between 27 and 30°C in the hottest part of the day. Similar weather conditions are expected on Saturday when it will be mostly sunny and very warm all over Dalmatia - and on Sunday? No different, though temperatures could reach up to 31°C. 

So, how will you choose to spend your weekend in Split? We thought we’d help you out. Here’s our guide to Split’s top events this weekend, from Friday, August 16 to 18, 2019. 

Riva

If you’re looking for live music, you’re in luck as the Split Summer Colors event is ongoing on Split's waterfront promenade.

16.08. Friday at 8:30 pm
A Weekend of Classic Music, Spalato quartet

17.08. Saturday at 8:30 pm
A Weekend of Classical Music Forever, Stefan Kokoškov

18.08. Sunday at 8:30 pm
POP ART group

Dardin

And if that doesn’t interest you? Head to Dardin park for the Evo Ruke concert series. 

16.08. Friday at 9:30 pm

Teška Odluka, Split

17.08. Saturday at 9:30 pm

Behave, Zagreb

18.08. Sunday at 9:30 pm

Combo Project, Split 

Bačvice

And if you aren’t up for live music but still want to enjoy some outside entertainment, the open-air cinema at Bačvice has a new schedule for the upcoming week. 

16.08. Friday at 8:30 pm

The Little Mermaid (in Croatian only)

17.08. Saturday at 9 pm

Woodstock (in English with Croatia subtitles) 

18.08. Sunday at 9 pm

Once Upon a Time in Hollywood (in English with Croatian subtitles)

Or you’re looking for some of the city’s best entertainment, head to Poljud Stadium on Sunday at 6 pm when Hajduk faces Gorica for the 5th round clash in the Croatian First League! 

And for those of you looking to party until the early morning hours, check out this weekend's events at Info Zona.

To read more about lifestyle in Croatia, follow TCN’s dedicated page. 

August 15, 2019 - A comprehensive digital nomad guide for Croatia, with a special emphasis for female digital nomads, as Tanja J. Polegubic joins the TCN team. 

We are delighted to welcome Tanja to the TCN team. One of the pioneers of the digital nomad revolution in Croatia, Tanja's first piece is an exhaustive guide of everything you need to know about the digital nomad scene in Croatia, from every conceivable angle, and with an emphasis on information for female nomads. She has also written an ebook which you can download at the end of the article. Welcome, Number 138! If you would like to write about the Croatia, Montenegro or Slovenia where you are, contact us on This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. And now, over to Tanja...

The 4 Hour Work Week, Pamela Slim’s Escape From Cubicle Nation, Eat Pray Love. Titles like these were novel on release, what with their promise of hammocks and laptops, starting side hustles and bouncing from Rome to Bali as a modern woman ‘finding’ herself. Now, these themes are all mainstream and have empowered a wave of remote working and living the digital nomad lifestyle - especially for women, and increasingly in Croatia. Add smart devices, cloud storage, unlimited data, online rentals of, well, everything from rooms to electric bikes to an address. The last decade has given us all the tools needed to be a digital nomad. Especially now in Croatia, which may have been unimaginable 10 years ago. I had certainly never considered it as a place to live and work. Things have changed, and are changing. As reported in TCN, the humble digital nomad can bring many benefits to Croatia.

And the way things are going, there’ll be 1 billion of us digital nomads by 2035.

With this growing wave, and the magnificent option of nomading in Croatia, here’s a 4 part guide on what to expect as a female digital nomad in Croatia, focused on Split specifically. Guys, it applies to you too - in most parts. As a coworking space owner in Split, I meet women who choose this country for many of the same reasons. Safety. Location. Mediterranean mindset. You can see my story and the stories of Chris, Gillian, Christi, Barb, Julie and Nicole, women all living the digital nomad lifestyle full or part-time, as featured on TCN.

If you’re looking to nomad on Croatia’s coast, this guide is for you. We’ll cover:

• WORK
• CROATIA for DIGITAL NOMADS: Why, What, When, Where.Etc.
• COSTS
• GETTING PERSONAL: Dating, Friendships and Finding Yourself.

WORK: Being a Digital Nomad.

First, establishing what kind of digital nomad you are (or want to be) helps you see yourself in Croatia. There are 5 main types:

• An employee.
• A consultant or freelancer.
• An entrepreneur.
• In Transition: Finding your path, a new side-hustle or change of scenery.
• The ModernSabbatical.

THE EMPLOYEE

The Digital Nomad Trend is On Your Side

If you’re an employee, convincing your employer to let you work from somewhere else is easier than ever, and hopefully the norm in the next few years. All the more, to choose Croatia as a nomad destination. (See Part 2).

“Life Leave”

More companies realise letting their teams work remotely helps retain staff and looks good to new recruits. Ernst & Young in Australia now offers 3 months of “Life Leave”. If you’re at a career crossroads, are uninspired by your colleagues, or find 10 vacation days per year (US) isn’t enough. Or, the ‘same ole’ is making you miserable - but can’t up and quit just yet, it’s time to get your digital nomad shoes on.

Working in a new environment, with the bonus of incidental travel, is now a reality for millions of digital nomads. No more waiting and saving. No credit card debt waiting for you. Freedom.

Before you take the leap, know the Digital Nomad lifestyle isn’t for everyone. Women especially may experience some issues - from the confidence to go out solo, to the choice being supported by family, partners, clients, managers and colleagues. The good news is, Croatia has many benefits. The high level of safety, English speakers (locals and expats) and internet speed means you can be productive, make friends and feel at home in a beautiful country. You’re joining a growing number of digital nomads arriving daily. Here’s some tips if you’re looking to make the leap and need help how to go about it.

TIPS:

• Suggest a short term trial first. This works for both sides. You’ll see if the lifestyle suits you. Your employer will know it’s not necessarily permanent and hopefully be more open to it. Especially if you’re the first in your office to ‘go nomad’ on the team.
• Use a project management tool. Perfect for remote teams. We like Trello.
• Consider the timezone. Pick locations where the timezone works for calls and meetings. Being on a call at midnight, and then again at 8am, can be hard to keep up. Set boundaries and communicate them in advance, or adjust things as needed.
• Find a workspace. Show you will have a reliable internet connection and productive setting around other professionals. This one is highly recommended, not only as a coworking space owner, but as someone who would rather paint my nails and do the washing when at home than get to some overdue admin. You feeling me?
• Use a lifestyle service. A what? Think of it as a hybrid of a travel and real estate agent and friend-of-a-friend in a faraway city. There are companies serving women travellers who work and travel as they go. They help with everything from finding accommodation to a yoga studio, to people on the ground you can meet. Coworking space members are also a great source of connecting. Reach out to us at Saltwater and ask about events, accommodation, the best brunch spots and our community.
• Mention other benefits. Do you do business in Europe and benefit being closer to these cities? Can you attend conferences or training in the region - while still getting work done? Find as many perks as you can. And ask for the coworking desk to be paid for at the company’s cost - always negotiate UP! A challenge many women find - and thus never even ask. Seek out a friend or book an online negotiation coach to help you put forward your case if this is not one of your strong points.
• Find a digital nomad buddy. Convince a friend to join you, or post online to see who else is travelling around the area you are interested in. Note - avoid committing to the long haul until you’ve met and tried out at least a few days together. Applies to strangers and friends.

CONSULTANTS and FREELANCERS

Well, you’ve got it made, haven’t you? Off you go.

For those aspiring to enter this style of working, there’s plenty of resources out there. Find a good podcast, coach or invest in something like Seth Godin’s online freelancer course. Find a mentor in your desired field, and see how they did it. Once you’re in motion, also try these:

TIPS:

• Offer your services online. Build an online presence and list on freelancer websites or through coworking space communities you join and even local collaborations.
• Inform clients you’re on the move. Arrange to shift any face-to-face meetings to video calls, instant messaging, and also advise them the timezone you’re on. It’s good to add this to your email signature, or social media updates and bio information.
• Work out payments in advance. If you’re charging in a different currency, fees and transfer times should be taken into account. Also research the tax implications of being abroad and any visa requirements if taking up local work. Croatia does not as

yet offer Revolut or N26, but services like TransferWise are handy for payments. For visas and other information about staying in Croatia, review the information on TCN.

ENTREPRENEURS

Again, as your own boss, it’s an easy one as you’re the one in control of when and where you go. Still, leaving your local base and managing in-person activity is harder from the other side of the world. How much you can keep operating depends on your type of business and who you have to rely on back ‘home’. If you’re shipping products, or run a hospitality business, who is there if things go wrong? How will you monitor progress? What do you need to have authorised while away? You may need an online video monitoring system if you have physical premises. Even if it’s just your personal property, there are many inexpensive and advanced systems which offer HD video, alert replays and an intercom.

Maintaining your business. TIPS:

• Build a support network. If you’re a solo operator, get a pool of friends, colleagues, or even recruit someone and give them a run-down of operations before you go.
• Inform suppliers and clients you’re on the move. And let them know who to contact or how to contact you while away.
• Prepare for business transactions and calls while abroad. Have you got SMS authorisation for your banking (and will be changing your SIM card over)? Will you need to renew a contract while away? Can you divert a phone number to a virtual answering service? Check any expiry dates on cards and permits, ensure someone will open your mail. Anything which blocks a bank account or new business can be anticipated. A local phone number service such as Local Phone is handy when internet drops out during a call - or your bank has a landline you may need to call. This has saved me while making online transfers or a blocked card issue.

Looking to start or expand your business - in Croatia.

“Those who do not use local guides cannot take advantage of the ground”. Sun Tzu

The value a reputable, well-established, connected local (or expat) can bring you in Croatia is immeasurable. This place is very much “who you know” and many have jumped hoops and wielded machetes through the paper jungle ahead of you. Find them. And if you’re used to a North American, Western European or Down Under way of doing things… buckle up!

TIPS:

• Attend networking events or join a coworking space. This is a great way to get a read of the territory by speaking to people already operating in the area. Many business owners will happily share their grievances, what’s worked and what hasn’t. Further, you will find it easier to connect to someone in your chosen industry. Face to face goes a long way.

• Make friends with locals and established expats. Remember to give, as well as take here. If all you’re doing is asking, or needing a lot of help - this can wear thin. In this case, hire a professional to provide these services or offer to barter your skills.

• Offer an exchange. If you can mentor or add value to a business, you can continue working (noting local employment laws) and benefit the local community, while learning new skills and building on your body of work.
• Speak at or host an event. There’s a bunch of meetup groups, everything from fitness and meditation, to business networking. Contacting the hosts and offering your services will likely be very welcome. Events are usually free and a lot of work on top of regular business, so if you can prove you’re capable of delivering - you’ll be a welcome addition to the local business sector, and readily accepted as you’ve “given” rather than just “taken” information. You’re not the first new arrival with the groundbreaking idea of how to make things better here. Skin in the game goes far.
• Do your research. If you’ve got a particular industry in mind, ask around. Try things out. Croatia doesn’t have a lot of information online about.. most things. And what it does, tends not to be in English. A reputable local contact and online english language portal like TCN are invaluable when getting a grasp of things.

Most of all, be discerning. Be wary of who you do business with. Be patient and persistent.

TRANSITIONAL

One of my favourites. You’re finding your path, a new side-hustle or change of scenery. You could still be any of the above, but it’s a restlessness which nomading can help cure. If there even is a cure to this modern form of The Travel Bug. The Mediterranean is a great place for it. The pace puts the brakes on the fast treadmill setting you’ve likely been on. Coffees are slow and social. No more rushed cups by yourself staring at the screen. (Yes, it’s still cool to take coffee at your screen sometimes).

Observing the local ‘slowcoast’ lifestyle, while frustrating at times, teaches you a lot. Being among a mix of affluent European holidaymakers (think superyachts) while next to people collecting plastic bottles for half a kuna, makes you reassess things even more - and your place in the world. Perfect for anyone in the “finding yourself” phase. You’ll value things you’ve left behind while also appreciating simplicity and even the struggle of where you are. It inspires you to find a happy middle ground to best match the opportunities to enjoy the place you’re in - a young country still healing and even rehashing old wounds, battling everything from corruption to a brain drain, to mental health stigma and unaddressed PTSD. All while trying to assert its identity and being part of the EU.

If you’re looking for a change in where you’re going, this is a great place to reset and reevaluate. Epiphanies usually arrive during sundowners somewhere. Croatia mixes the sophistication of Europe, with a very relaxed seaside setting. Draw from those what you will.

TIPS:

• Connect. Find other digital nomads. You’ll likely find, “it’s not just you” feeling the way you’re feeling. Hurrah! Far from home, wondering where you’re going or where you’ll return to. Read the stories of Chris, Gillian, Christi, Barb and Nicole for inspiration. Women just like this are around all the time. Our workspace is great if you’re looking to meet people and need a friend.
• Step outside the comfort zone. This is the point, right? No one sees the layers you’re perceived to be wearing back home. Nobody knows you here. Try new (safe and legal) things. Ask someone out to dinner. Sunbathe topless. Learn to sail. Etc.
• Work out your ‘Why’. Easier said than done, but again, plenty of resources. Try Simon Sinek. Pamela Slim’s Body Of Work. Jen Sincero’s Badass series. Marie Forleo. Pema Chodron (WOAH!). Get a coach, especially one in the EU, the likes of Anna Anderson and Ginny Krauss, who are part of the Saltwater family and have been part of the transition and empowerment of our members.

THE MODERN SABBATICAL

A Break From the 9-5.

You’re finally writing your book. Your kids have moved out. You’re newly single. You’ve got a personal interest website to build. You’ve got a dream to follow. Etc… but it would be great to also make money while doing it.

Being a digital nomad, especially at 30 plus, allows space for over-neglected passion projects. Taking advantage of the gig economy, it’s easy now to build your own team of remote freelancers to build a website, get a publishing coach such as Jodi Brandon Editorial, or any other niche skills you need to bring your idea to life.

Rather than waiting for the right time, saving, or returning ‘home’ to credit card debt, working along the way helps you follow a dream, and perhaps even reveal the unexpected. All while keeping finances replenished along the way.

TIPS:

• Rent out your place. Many home-owning nomads rent out their homes as an additional source of income while away.
• Find paid gigs by asking your network. Tell people you know you’re looking for any paid gigs. You’d be surprised what skills and small, but paid tasks are needed by busy people. Are you a spreadsheet whiz? Love words? A hobby photographer? Basic photo editing using affordable software is in demand from professional photographers on multi-day shoots. Explore forums to see what people are asking for, and put yourself out there. Start low, and build up a body of work to get more streams of income - a trend we all need to go, and something the Dalmatians do well!
• Get a seasonal job. This can be your ticket to staying in Croatia through a work permit. 3 months working and living on a vineyard can buy you time in the region if you’re not an EU national. And goodness knows our smallholder farmers need it.

Workers in demand in Croatia, on the coast in particular, include:

• Hospitality &Tourism.
• Agriculture. Vineyards, olives and other Mediterranean produce duringharvests.
• Construction (usually outside of thesummer).

While the pay will be lower than you’re used to, (construction aside), the skills shortage could be the ticket to a work residency permit to allow you to stay in Europe. It’s valid for 12 months, and most of this work is seasonal, meaning it’s only a few months and can help you cover some costs, gain new skills and perspectives, and keep up the digital nomad work.

Negotiate for accommodation or meals where you can, and honour your passion to boot!

CROATIA for DIGITAL NOMADS

WHY CROATIA:

Top 10 Reasons for nomads (especially women):

1. It’s safe.
2. High English speaking population.
3. Fast internet and good mobile coverage.
4. A growing digital nomad and expat community.
5. Natural beauty: mountains, sea, islands, national parks.
6. Active: hiking, climbing, sailing, free diving, sea kayaking, sports.
7. Cultural and historic treasures: Early Stone and Bronze Ages, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, Venetian and Austro-Habsburg eras.
8. Strong cafe culture. Taking 5 … that’s up to 5 hours, for a coffee, is the norm.
9. Gastronomy. A range of Mediterranean and regional delicacies such as olive oil, truffles, seafood with influences from the entire region for abroad experience.
10. Wine. Craft Beers. And other spirits, including rakija (herb and fruit) and award-winning gins made from the local botanicals.

GETTING AROUND:

Croatia is easy to get around. Most cities are connected by new highways with regular buses. The islands are all within an hour or so ferry ride from the mainland or each other - unlike our closest Mediterranean equivalent, Greece, which will take you half a day. Island hopping really is a breeze, here. There are also regular flights to many European destinations, with more carriers in the summer period. Rideshares are also gaining popularity and taking the sea-route, rather than land is a wonderful way to travel.

WHERE TO WORK AS A DIGITAL NOMAD IN CROATIA:

Coworking spaces.

Clearly the winner. Reliable internet. Privacy and professionalism for calls and video conferencing. A community and a bunch of regulars to collaborate, soundboard, travel and dine with.

Cafes.

Convenient for short periods. Note, if you’re solo, you’re taking up room of paying customers and in high season, is frowned upon. In cooler months, this is more accepted, but if you’re a non-smoker, the enclosed cafe environment will have you surrounded by more ashtrays than digital nomads.

Your Accommodation.

Most accommodation rentals will have wifi and air conditioning. A desk setup may not always be available, but the dining table or a balcony if you’re lucky is ideal. Could be a little lonely… so breaking up the work-from-home by getting out is an investment.

Libraries.

Most cities have a local library. Probably dwindling in popularity, these spaces also host local speaking events and presentations (usually in Croatian).

Co-Living Spaces and Hubs.

Coming to the Croatian coast in March 2020. Stay tuned to TCN for locations.

WHAT TO DO:

Food + Wine

The #1 ranked Mediterranean Diet is all around you. Try local made wine, seafood and regional specialties. Either served to you, or part of catching and preparing the meals.

Active + Nature

Sailing, Hiking, Cycling, Swimming, Kayaking… you’re in a 200km radius of some pristine nature. This pristine status is also under threat. A clean up is

Festivals

Every city has a range of celebrations - mostly religious. There’s also a growing number of music and dance festivals.

Heritage

If you’re of Croatian descent (well over 4 million people from around the world are), explore your origins, family tree and the language.

History + Culture

Ancient and Roman settlements, Byzantine, Ottoman. Pick a date in history and go explore.

Islands

Look up a ferry timetable, find a local attraction or idyllic beach and get thee over to an island.

Wellbeing

Meditation, yoga, seasonal harvests… Here there’s also 4 hour lunches or 3 hour coffees. Om out, in nature or a slow coastal cafe.

Business

As a digital nomad, you likely wear many income-generating hats. Start or find business here. Note the local requirements to work here - and respect the locals who abide by local requirements, permits and associated taxes and high costs in running a business.

When to come?

JULY + AUGUST

This is peak season and you’ll pay the highest prices for everything during this time - except maybe budget flights. If you don’t mind the prices and lots of people, this period sees Split at its most bustling.

APRIL-MAY

The weather is warming up, places are reopening after being closed for the winter. This is an affordable time and the staff are full of energy.

SEP + OCT

School has restarted and the weather is gorgeous, Mediterranean harvests are underway - wine, olive oil and truffles. The perfect time to travel.

DECEMBER

A festive time with Advent celebrations with tolerable outdoors weather (bring a coat)!.

JAN, FEB, MAR, NOV

The quietest times on the coast. Most places close, there is less on offer and limited flight connections. It is however a great time to experience Croatia without any crowds.

COSTS

The average budget of digital nomads coming to our space is €2500 per month. This includes accommodation, coworking, meals (a mix of dining out and self-catering) and recreation.

Accommodation:

In Split, expect to pay approx €500 in the centre for a 45m2 apartment. Considerably more for short term.

Food + Entertainment €1500 per month

Dining out will cost 50 HRK for a vegan burrito to 250HRK for a fine dining experience. Self catering at the local markets is about 100 HRK for a full day of veg and certain types of seafood.

Coworking

We offer dedicated desks for €249 euro or €16 per day. Less for long term plans. In a cafe: A flat white is €3.

If you’re drinking 1 per hour in a working day to ‘buy’ your seat, it racks up to €24.

Get reliable wifi, ergonomic seating AND 2 coffees for that price. Coworking is a cost-effective option.

Travel

If you take the bus or ferry twice a week to see a new destination on day trips, expect to pay 60 euro per week. Cabs extra.

Adding an extra €1000 per month allows for indulgences such as retail therapy, 1-2 nights accommodation per week and other recreation.

TIME TO GET PERSONAL

Dating, Friendships and Finding Yourself.

DATING

I’m occasionally asked by nomads about dating locals in Dalmatia. Thankfully, destiny stepped in for me and I dodged the ‘dating-in-Dalmatia’ bullet. While no veteran, there are things I’ve observed as recurring themes specific to cultural differences.

1. Lives with mum. Many unmarried, or even married Dalmatian men, still live at home. Even beyond age 50. It’s the same in Italy, where 60-year-old men still get their shirts ironed and pasta on the table daily. Loans are usually avoided at all costs - and to be fair, wages are low and moving out is not a financial option. Shared housing isn’t very common either, except for students and only during school terms. Be understanding. And get used to a mother-in-law who will worship your guy, especially if he’s the only son.
2. Earnings. The wages here are among the lowest in the EU, so as a financially independent female, you just being you may be intimidating - or worse, a target. This is rarely the case, but one lady I know of was threatened to be sued for causing ‘emotional distress’ after not wanting to go on further dates.
3. Different views. Attitudes on gender and sexuality will likely be more conservative than most digital nomads are used to. If your values differ on some fundamentals, it may be best to call for the bill.
4. Divorce. As a very Catholic country, divorce was a last resort, but this, like everywhere else, has changed. A friend I have was ghosted, twice, after sharing her history.
5. Making the First Move. Asking a guy out here is smart, as you may wait forever. Having said that, consider how long you’re here. These are small towns, you will probably run into the same person during your stay. Use your best “is he into me” judgement.

A special note about looking for love as a digital nomad.

Whether it’s Dalmatia, Northern Croatia or Chiang Mai - the growing number of digital nomads (with more screen than in-person interaction) makes forming bonds tough. Add in the prospect of finding a spark and then... you leave. If relationships weren’t tricky enough, being a nomad adds to the complexity. Understandably, anyone will be hesitant about getting their heart broken.

Nomads have chosen a lifestyle where mobility is key. Going for a local may cause disappointment - not only for them, but for you if you’re sacrificing your mobility overnight.

Consider also the numbers. Most working relationships come about through recommendations by friends, followed by the workplace, shared interests, then online.

PS I know a delightful circle of eligible men (and women) who are locals or regular nomads in Split. Another perk of using a coworking space - see point above about meeting at work and through a recommendation.

FRIENDSHIPS

As women, we tend to talk things through. Not having your bestie there in person can prove one of the hardest things when living the nomad life. It took me several years to realise the importance of the friends who knew my backstory, and it still impacts me not being able to fully express what I’m going through, especially when on the move. Video calls and instant messenger are a blessing, but there’s something about a person right in front of you.

As noted above - you’re usually not alone in your ‘digital nomad’ quandary, if you’re going through one. Reaching out to someone - hopefully empathetic - is a way to form bonds, and unburden yourself on what can be a lonely journey.

Knowing this, you can prepare ahead by doing things you know help such as journalling, lining up times to call and chat to your friends or a long walk and uplifting podcast.

Soundboarding about colleagues or a work project is also a bit harder, so processing these thoughts - a local therapist service or counsellor, is recommended. Whatever you do, reach out. You’ll find other nomads have experienced similar issues, and can help you through.

FINDING YOURSELF

This is where this guide ends, and your own answers come in.

Your reasons for being a digital nomad could be any number of things. Whatever they are, the hope for you is that they are fruitful, you find some other great nomads and experience along the way - and add Croatia to your nomad list. We’ll be here waiting for you at Saltwater, and the TCN resources will keep coming.

Happy nomading! And consider Croatia, especially in the off-season.

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Tanja has written an excellent and very helpful ebook on being a digital nomad which is available here, and you can also visit the Saltwater Workspace website, her coworking space on the Split riva. 

You can learn more about being a digital nomad in Croatia with the Total Croatia guide.

Are you a digital nomad in Croatia who would like to share your experiences, as these other nomads have done? Contact us on This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. 

August 13, 2019 - As we approach the halfway point of August, we are well and truly sailing through the peak of summer in Split. We are now more than accustomed to sweat-drenched clothes, tan lines, and living in our swimsuits at the beach or under air conditioners. We’re now at the point where we're counting down the days of summer to end, knowing that we’ll be wishing for it the moment the first rain falls. And we’re probably already regretting all of the things we didn’t get to do this summer, adding it to our 2020 summer bucket list, which will be hard to cross off then, too. 

And while summer in Split has many perks, we’d like to argue that is gastronomy is one of the biggest. 

This is where Chops Grill comes in. A summer sanctuary tucked away in the shade of Split’s busy center. It’s the perfect pop-in for a glass of wine and a feed, a hero for big groups, and a consistent and all-around satisfying chophouse that can do no wrong. 

But the real beauty lies in Chops’ beef, as it should at every standout steakhouse. Since Chops Grill offers prime cuts from all over the world, we thought we’d walk you through some of its best. 

Like the beef tenderloin, a filet mignon from local grain-fed Simmental beef. And if you want to travel to another part of the world, you can try the Wagyu beef striploin from Kyoto, Japan. 

Chops Grill also offers a Black Angus prime rib with the bone, which is certified beef from Nebraska, corn-fed, and wet-aged. The Black Angus T-bone also comes from Nebraska, is corn-fed and wet-aged. 

But you can even travel down to South America to try the striploin steak, a Black Angus grain-fed beef from Uruguay that is wet-aged, or the Black Angus ribeye steak that is Argentinian grass-fed Black Angus beef. 

Moving over to Ireland, you can try the Kettyle® strip steak from "Kettyle Irish Foods”, or the Black Angus ribeye steak which is Irish grain-fed Black Angus beef and wet-aged. And if you’re really hungry? The Kettyle® tomahawk steak on the bone for two people is dry-aged Irish Black Angus ribeye, which also won two stars from the Great Taste Award in 2013.

But that’s just part of it. The T-bone steak comes from European Simmental beef that is wet-aged, the Black Angus beef tenderloin is from "Tyson Fresh Meats" Black Angus beef that is corn-fed and wet-aged, as is the Black Angus ribeye. 

If you’re interested in trying any of the beef presented above, or want to entice yourself with someone else off the menu, you can find everything available at Chops here. 

To read more about lifestyle in Croatia, follow TCN’s dedicated page.

ZAGREB, August 12, 2019 - At the start of 2020, the construction of a new healthcare centre with an integrated accident & emergency department (A&E) will begin in the coastal city of Split, the Večernji List daily reported on Monday.

The new centre will specialise in emergency medicine and the acute care for patients, the head of the Split University Hospital Centre, Julije Meštrović was quoted as saying.

Apart from that hospital with integrated accident & emergency services, Split is going to construct a building housing several clinics that will operate on an outpatient basis, according to the newspaper.

Mestrovic said that the money for these two projects would be partly secured from the EU funds.

The new hospital facilities in Split are part of the government's plan for healtcare system which also includes the future national children's hospital at Blato, Zagreb as well as new hospital facilities in Osijek, Rijeka and Pula, the daily reported.

In mid-April, Prime Minister Andrej Plenković and Zagreb Mayor Milan Bandić signed a framework agreement on cooperation in preparing the project "Building the national children's hospital," which is the first step in implementing the project for the construction of the hospital in Zagreb's Blato neighbourhood.

The government-sponsored project is worth 42.3 million kuna, of which 85% will be financed by the European Regional Development Fund. The rest of the funds will be secured from the state and Zagreb city budgets. The new children's hospital will also provide care in gynaecology and obstetrics. Health Minister Milan Kujundžić said then that new national children's hospital would provide all forms of treatment of children's diseases in one place.

More health news can be found in the Lifestyle section.

August 12, 2019 - If you thought Sunday was hot on the Adriatic Coast, the worst is yet to come as the peak of summer brings brutal temperatures along for the ride. 

Although the end of the meteorological summer is still a month and a half away, it looks like the two hottest days of this summer are right ahead, reports Dalmacija Danas.

On Sunday, some parts of Dalmatia measured uncomfortably high temperatures. For example, the highest daily air temperature in Knin was 39.3°C, Ploče and Resnik 38°C, and Zemunik 37°C.

However, the new week begins with a warning from DHMZ, who issued a red alert for the entire Adriatic due to the heat. Namely, this is the highest warning level within the MeteoAlarm system.

If the next two days will break temperature records remains to be seen, but we do know that you’ll want to park yourselves under the air conditioning for as long as you can. 

Monday will be sweltering and muggy. The skies will be clear while the wind will be weak or completely absent. The minimum morning air temperatures will range from 18°C somewhere in Zagora (Inland Dalmatia) to 30°C somewhere along the coast. The highest daily temperatures will range from 33°C on the high seas to 40°C in Zagora. 

Tuesday will be mostly clear, though the afternoon in Inland Dalmatia will see moderate to increased cloud development in some areas, with a slight chance of rain showers. It will be quiet or with a light breeze. The morning will be hot with maximum daily temperatures from 33 to 40°C.

A weakened weather front will bring only slightly more variable weather on Wednesday. It will be partly sunny, with occasional cloudy skies. In the second part of the day, there will be light showers with thunder, mostly in southern Dalmatia. There will be a light to moderate bura in the morning and evening and in the daytime, light winds of different directions. It will be a little fresher with maximum daily temperatures between 29 and 35°C.

On Thursday it will be partly sunny, with the occasional moderate clouds and dryness. There will be a light bura wind in the morning, and during the day, a light breeze from the west. The evening and morning are much more comfortable than in the previous days, with maximum daily temperatures between 27 and 32°C.

Friday, Saturday and Sunday will be mostly sunny and dry. The wind will be weaker; in the evenings bura, in the daytime maestral. The nights will be comfortable, with maximum daily temperatures from 27 to 32°C, and a little higher on Sunday.

You can follow updates from DHMZ here.

To read more about news in Croatia, follow TCN’s dedicated page. 

Split Airport continues to break records, and in the first week of August alone, it recorded a 3 percent increase in traffic, reports Splitski Dnevnik on August 10, 2019. 

However, Split Airport is not far behind the Split Ferry Port, which, due to the high interest of the passengers, introduces additional lines to the islands almost every weekend.

This weekend, 220 flights and 57,000 passengers will travel through the Split airport, while 95,000 passengers and 18,000 vehicles will travel through the ferry port. Thus, 115 aircraft carrying 30,000 passengers will take-off and land at Split Airport on Saturday alone, while on Sunday, 103 aircraft carrying 27,000 passengers will be on the runway.

“Cumulatively, the airport's traffic increased by 6.3 percent in the first seven months of this year. In the first eight days of August, we have an increase of three percent again. We are the only airport in Croatia to break the record of 723,000 passengers in just one month, and I am referring specifically to July this year,” said Mate Melvan of Split Airport.

This weekend will also boast big crowds at the ferry port, which will achieve a record 95,000 passengers and 18,000 vehicles from Friday to Sunday, announced Danijela Ivanović from Jadrolinija. The highest demand of passengers is for the island of Brač and Hvar, which will run additional lines, while the rest of the islands will sail according to the usual schedule of navigation.

“Today, we are crowded both on the arrivals and departures. There is more pressure in Supetar on the return than the departure, and from the end of next weekend and elsewhere, we expect more returns than arrivals,” Ivanović added.

To read more about travel in Croatia, follow TCN’s dedicated page. 

Croatia’s famous long-distance swimmer Dina Levačić has announced that her next challenge is the Tsugaru Strait in Japan, one of the seven channels in the world every endurance swimmer seeks to complete.

This will be Dina’s fourth swimming marathon out of the seven major international swimming marathons she intends to complete in her career, reports Dalmacija Danas on August 9, 2019.

Due to respiratory problems at the end of July, Levačić had to give up her second attempt to swim the 54 kilometer trip from Vis to Split, though it didn’t take long for her to announce her next world venture.

“At the end of August this year, I am leaving to swim the Tsugaru Strait in Japan, which is considered one of the hardest swimming marathons in the world because of the strong currents. This will be a big challenge for me because there are tuna and sea snakes in that channel, but it is not life-threatening,” said the 23-year-old from Solin, emphasizing that the Tsugaru Strait is 30 kilometers long and that only 30 swimmers have managed to swim it so far.

The ‘Ocean Seven’ is a series of seven international swimming marathons, modeled after the Seven Summits mountaineering challenge. Dina Levačić has already swum three marathon channels from the ‘Ocean Seven’ series: Catalina Channel, English Channel (La Manche) and Moloka’i Channel. After the Tsugaru Strait in Japan, Dina will still need to overcome the North Channel between Northern Ireland and Scotland, the Strait of Gibraltar between Europe and Africa and the Cook Strait in New Zealand.

Dina Levačić is an open swimming champion and member of the long-distance swimming club in Split. She first recorded impressive results at her Argentine tour at the age of 17, placing fourth in the Rosario marathon and securing sixth place in the 57-kilometer marathon from Santa Fe to Coronda. This Argentine trifecta was the longest open-swimming marathon in the world, following an 88-kilometer route. Dina finished in less than 10.5 hours, and placed 5th overall, less than an hour after the winner of the competition.

Dina then accepted the marathon challenge of her career - the Triple Crown of Open Water Swimming. It began with the Marathon Island Marathon Swim, which saw the Split native swim 48.5 km in 7:33:50. Dina then tackled the Catalina Channel, where she swam 32.5 km in 9:47:53. The infamous part of the Triple Crown, however, was the English Channel - a 33.7 km stretch between England and France. Dina completed the challenge in 11 hours and 42 minutes and thus became the first Croatian female athlete to swim the La Manche in its entirety, and the first Croatian athlete to complete the Triple Crown. Not to mention that Dina is also the sixth athlete in history to have completed the Triple Crown in under 90 days. 

Last August, Dina conquered the 42-kilometer long Molokai channel, from Molokai Island to Oahu Island, Hawaii, in 13 hours. 

To read more about sport in Croatia, follow TCN’s dedicated page. 

August 9, 2019 - A look at the anticipated changes at the Split Ferry Port next year. 

Dalmatinski Portal reports that the breakwater at the Split ferry port and the mooring for cruisers will be occupied by international traffic lines next year, revealed the Split Port Authority on Thursday. 

Specifically, the plan is to move international traffic to the breakwater, freeing up 13,000 square meters at Gat Svetog Duje to accommodate vehicles waiting to board, and at the same time, some domestic lines that land on the breakwater would be drawn closer to the city. While this all sounds great, where would this move the cruisers?

Port Authority Director Vice Mihanović answers. 

“Depending on the need. International traffic lines take priority. If there is room for cruisers, then we will dock cruisers. If there isn’t, then we won’t. We will integrate the regular domestic services in the northern part of the port closer to the city. It's all about making the port and domestic lines flow better,” says Mihanović.

A new international terminal building on the breakwater should be renovated for HRK 60 million. This is the area of the failed Jadran Ribolov, a company that ended in bankruptcy and liquidation. Mihanović says the building is under conservation protection, as well as other facilities in the port, and it will be reconstructed, while the building itself will remain in the same dimensions.

“One of the benefits is that the new terminal building will bring together all the services in one place. From the mooring, pilots, navigation control which is currently in Zenta, to the Harbor Master's Office. They would significantly raise the level of security,” says Mihanović.

The Port Authority is seeking the assistance of the Ministry of the Sea in financing the project for the new terminal building. Mihanović says they have the full support of Split Mayor Andro Krustolović Opara, County prefect Blaženko Boban, and Minister Oleg Butkovic. The management is in the process of obtaining a building permit for the new terminal. It is estimated that this could be resolved by the end of the year, and then a contract for the contractor should be announced. Construction could take two years.

The University of Split is doing two studies, of which the Port Authority expects guidelines to arrange the port further. One relates to cruisers and the other to the concession of the remaining port facilities, breakwater storage facilities, Dalmacijavino building, and parking lots. The Dalmacijavino building is under the special protection of conservationists and must remain in its present form, which is a particular problem. The value of the works on the landscaping of this part of the port is estimated at HRK 60 million, and for it to be executed, it would be necessary to change the general urban plan. 

"When we receive our studies, we will discuss with the City of Split the best direction to develop the port as an integral part of the city," Mihanović concludes. 

To read more about travel in Croatia, follow TCN’s dedicated page.