December 16, 2019 - The 19th round of the Croatian First League was held from December 13 to 15, 2019. This was the final round of the winter season for all clubs apart from Dinamo and Rijeka, who will make up their 6th round game on December 18, 2019. As the table stands now, Dinamo sits in first, Hajduk in second, and Rijeka in third place. 

Gorica v. Inter Zapresic (1:1)

Gorica and Inter opened the 19th round on Friday, December 13, 2019, in Velika Gorica in front of 689 fans. Zwolinski scored for Gorica in the first minute of the game to make it 1:0. Muhammed saw his second yellow card just before the half, forcing Gorica to play with a man down for the entire second half. Tsonev equalized for Inter in the 69th minute for 1:1, which was the final score of the game. 

Gorica is currently in 5th place with 29 points, while Inter is in 8th place with 13. 

Rijeka v. Varazdin (3:1)

Rijeka and Varazdin met at Rujevica stadium on Saturday, December 14, 2019, in front of 3,865 fans. 

Acosty opened the scoring spree for Rijeka with a goal in the 12th minute for 1:0 at the half. Colak increased Rijeka’s lead to 2:0 in the 47th minute. A penalty for Varazdin in the 83rd saw a 2:1 result, though Colak scored again for Rijeka in the 90th for a final score of 3:1. 

Rijeka is currently in 3rd place with 34 points, while Varazdin is in the last place with 12. 

Dinamo v. Lokomotiva (1:0)

Dinamo and Lokomotiva met on Saturday, December 14, 2019, at Maksimir stadium in front of 1,935 fans. 

The first half went without goals, and Dinamo’s only goal of the game came when Olmo scored in the 67th minute.

Dinamo is currently in first place with 44 points, while Lokomotiva is in 6th with 28. 

Osijek v. Slaven Belupo (3:2)

Osijek and Belupo met at City Garden Stadium on Sunday, December 16, 2019, in front of 2,058 fans. 

Maric scored for Osijek in the first minute of the game for 1:0 at the half. Lulic equalized in the 51st minute for 1:1, though a Maric penalty and a goal by Kleinheisler increased Osijek’s lead to 3:1 by the 65th minute. Bozic scored for Belupo in the 72nd for the final score of 3:2. 

Osijek is currently in 4th place with 33 points, while Belupo is in 7th with 18. 

Hajduk v. Istra 1961 (2:1)

Hajduk and Istra closed out the 19th round at Poljud on Sunday, December 16, 2019, in front of 6,262 fans. 

Istra was the first to score with a goal by Fintic right before the whistle blew for the half for 0:1. However, two goals from Caktas in the 62nd and 69th minutes saw Hajduk celebrate 2:1 in the end. 

Hajduk is currently in 2nd place with 35 points, while Istra is in 9th with 12. 

You can see the full HNL table here. 

To read more about sport in Croatia, follow TCN’s dedicated page.

December 14, 2019 - So how is the atmosphere at this year's Advent in Zagreb? We sent our 3 TCN interns out and about with their phones to take a look. 

Join us in wandering the streets of Zagreb, interspersed with the Nutcracker theme.

After winning the Best Advent in Europe for three consecutive years (2016, 2017, 2018), Zagreb is stealing tourists' hearts once again with its originality. This year's theme is the Nutcracker, so every corner is hiding his character.

But what makes this year's Zagreb Advent special is that it's not just the Nutcracker head topic. According to Zagreb Tourist Board (TZGZ) director Martina Bienenfeld at a media conference, the focus is still on ecology and sustainability and accessibility for people with disabilities. Thus, most caterers will use paper cups and plates instead of plastic ones, and special bypasses will be installed to facilitate the movement of people with disabilities.

The whole of Zagreb is imbued with the Advent spirit, but it is most prevalent at European Square, the Croatian National Theater, the Tuškanac cinema, Oktogon, Ban Jelacic Square, the Strossmayer Promenade, Maksimir ZOO, King Tomislav Square, etc.

Mulled wine is one of the most famous drinks oat Advent, and you can find it throughout the city. There are many concerts held at the Klovićevi dvori. You can find a detailed schedule of the concerts on their Facebook page.

Food lovers can find something for themselves on stands that sell sausages, fritters, germknödeln, and many more. When you are satisfied with food, you can take pictures of the many attractions and sightseeing spots in Zagreb.

Walking through Park Zrinjevac, you will see Olaf, with whom you can take a picture. But be aware that you have to pay 10 kn for a group photo. On Zrinjevac, there are stands with handmade toys and other typical Croatian souvenirs, as well as traditional Croatian food. 

The concerts are held from Monday to Friday from 18:00 to 20:00 and from 20:00 to 22:00. Concerts of classical music are held on Saturdays from 11:00 to 12:00, and regular music program is held from 18:00 to 20:00 and from 20:00 to 22:00. On Sunday concerts of classical music are held from 11:00 to 12:00, and the regular music program starts at 18:00 and finishes at 20:00.

The famous ice rink is situated between The Art Pavilion and monument to King Tomislav. If you are not a fan of skating, you can enjoy a rich gastronomic offer and beverages here, as well. The cash register opens 30 minutes before opening the skating ring. Special working hours are: 

Christmas Eve: 10:00 to 17:00

Christmas: 11:30 to 23:00

New Year's Eve: 10:00 to 02:00

New Year: 11:30 to 23:00

Looking for a guide to what's on at this year's Advent in Zagreb? Check out the TCN guide.  

To learn more about Zagreb, check out the Total Croatia Zagreb in a Page guide. 

Contrary to recent reports that the Bosnian government would be sending two Nigerian students, Abia Uchenna Alexandro and Eboh Kenneth Chinedu, back to their homeland directly from Bosnia, a senior Nigerian government official has confirmed in a press release today that the students will fly back to Nigeria from Zagreb, Croatia instead.

Accusations Against Croatian Police

According to the students’ uncorroborated account, they were approached by Croatian police in Zagreb on the evening of November 17, not allowed to return to their hostel to retrieve their passports and were taken instead to the nearby police station. From there, they were put inro a van with illegal migrants and sent to the Bosnian border where they were forced at gunpoint to enter Bosnia. The Croatian police and manager of the HI Youth Hostel, where the students stayed, have disputed the students’ version of events.

Fear of Returning to Croatia

According to N1 Bosnia on December 11, 2019 – Dragan Mektić, Bosnian Minister of Security explained that the students would be returned to Nigeria directly from Bosnia via the AVR voluntary repatriation program. He noted that the students had expressed fear of returning to Croatia. The students also insisted, in interviews with Žurnal and The Guardian, that they would not return to Croatia without UN escorts. However, a top Nigerian government official has confirmed today that the students will, in fact, be returning to Nigeria from Croatia.

Chairman/CEO of Nigerians in Diaspora Commission Statement

The statement, which was released two hours ago by Abdur-Rahman Balogun, Head Media & Public/Relations, on behalf of the Hon. Abike Dabiri-Erewa, Chairman/CEO of Nigerians in Diaspora Commission (NIDCOM), addressed a few of the details surrounding the students’ trip to Croatia. She noted that the Nigerian Mission in Hungary has been involved in securing their return to Nigeria. Recall that the Chairman had disputed portions of the students' account as reported by The Guardian after that article appeared in The Cable, a Nigerian portal.

“The Minister of Foreign Affairs is on this matter. It’s not as straightforward as you have reported, but the Minister has personally intervened. We should give an update as the intervention continues,” she revealed in a tweet on Saturday, December 7.

Didn’t Inform Nigerian Table Tennis Federation

According to today's statement, five students went to the Fifth World InterUniversities Championships in Pula to compete in table tennis. She also pointed out that they attended the event without the knowledge of the Nigerian Table Tennis Federation. She confirmed Croatian police reports that two had returned to Nigeria after the competition and that another student had applied for asylum in Croatia.

Must use Return Tickets Not Seek Asylum

She emphasized that, as condition of their release, the two students, who are currently being held in Bosnia, must use their return flight tickets from Zagreb and cannot seek asylum in Croatia. While she acknowledged that the Croatian police had denied the students’ allegations, she also noted that Mr. Geoffrey Onyeama, the Hon. Minister of Foreign Affairs of Nigeria, has demanded a full investigation into the incident. She noted that the students are expected to arrive in Croatia anytime from today December 13, 2019.

The statement, which is printed in full below, can be found here.

The Chairman/CEO, Nigerians in Diaspora Commission, (NIDCOM) Hon. Abike Dabiri-Erewa has assured that the two Nigerians in Bosnia Camps are hale and hearty and are expected to return to Croatia anytime from today Friday Dec. 13, 2019 preparatory to come back to Nigeria.

This was sequel to series of diplomatic interventions from the Nigerian Mission in Hungary and Mr. Geoffrey Onyema, Hon. Minister of Foreign Affairs, who directed for full investigations to be carried out.

It will be recalled that two students of the Federal University of Technology, Owerri (FUTO), Abia Alexandro Uchenna and Eboh Kenneth Chinedu, who attended an international table tennis competition in Croatia, ended up in a Bosnian refugee camp.

She said arrangements have been concluded to send the two Nigerians back to Croatia anytime from today, Friday December 13, 2019, adding that the Nigerian Mission in Hungary has taken steps to ensure that the matter is resolved, and the welfare of the two Nigerians protected.

She said that five of them went for the table tennis event without the knowledge of the Nigerian Table Tennis Federation, two returned over two weeks ago, three of them stayed back while one already applied for asylum.

Although the Croatia Authorities through our Ambassador in Budapest denied the allegation involving maltreatment by the Croatian Police, the Hon. Minister of Foreign Affairs, Mr. Geoffrey Onyeama has demanded full investigation into the matter.

She said the conditions attached to their release include usage of their return tickets from Zagreb, Croatia back to Nigeria and must not seek Asylum in Croatia, just as one of them did already.

Dabiri-Erewa appealed to Nigerians to always inform relevant authorities whenever they go on such trips outside the country and be of good behaviour.

According to a report, Abia Alexandro Uchenna, Eboh Kenneth Chinedu, and three other students, arrived in Zagreb, capital of Croatia, on November 12, for the fifth world inter-university championships held in the country.

They were allegedly arrested while taking a walk around the country’s capital on November 18 as they couldn’t produce relevant documents to the police.

The police officers were reported to have transferred the students to the country’s Bosnia-Herzegovina border, where Croatian authorities had gathered a group of illegal migrants attempting to cross into the country.

Signed,

Abdur-Rahman Balogun
Head Media & Public/Relations

Follow our Politics page for updates regarding this story and the migrant crisis in Croatia.

The Zagreb suburb of Dubrava will be getting a new indoor pool and construction is set to begin in 2020. Here is what the massive complex valued at HRK 42.9m (5.77 Million EUR) will look like.

“We are compensating for the lack of natural light and ventilation of the building by dividing it into three pavilions, which are created by introducing two atriums, where trees will be planted,” the Dubrava pool architects explained to Petra Balija/Večernji List on December 11, 2019.

Zagreb Based Radionica Arhitekture Submits Winning Proposal

The pool complex will be nestled between two tall buildings. On one side there will be a 12-story residential skyscraper, and on the other a church with a bell tower that pierces the sky. The location of the future swimming pool in Dubrava, at the corner of Aleja Blaž Jurišića and Križni put ulica, helped dictate the appearance of the building. It was designed by the Radionica arhitekture (Architecture Workshop) team headed by renowned architect Goran Rako. Thirty-three proposals were received in less than two months; the duration of the competition announced by the City of Zagreb. The second prize went to the BIRO Architectural Office and the third to Hrvoje Njirić, Marko Gusić and Irma Šmuc. Construction is expected begin next year, according to reports from the city. The time of year for laying the foundation will be determined in subsequent planning meetings now that the winning proposal has been selected, officials from the Gornja Dubrava district added.

Dubrava Pool Complex Will Have Three Pavilions

Considering that it will be surrounded by taller buildings, the pool building should be as close to the ground as possible, the Radionica arhitekture team thought. Therefore, they designed a low elevation building which will be nestled among taller structures. They will erect "dams", or walls without openings facing east and west, to prevent neighbors from looking in at bathers in the swimming pools.

The Radionica arhitekture team included a "double" cafe on the ground floor of the building, where guests can enter in shoes from the lobby, and bathers can enter through the atrium barefoot or with flip-flops.

“We compensate for the lack of natural light and ventilation within the building by dividing it into three pavilions, which are created by introducing two atriums, where trees will be planted,” the architects point out.

Pool and Locker Room on Subterranean Level

They also wanted to place the pool and locker room on the same floor. Since there wasn’t any space on the ground floor, they solved the problem by lowering both to the subterranean level. In addition to a large sports and recreation pool and a smaller educational and rehabilitation pool, the complex will house a sauna, ballet and choreography hall, 250-person capacity theater, fitness center, breastfeeding area and children’s changing room.

Energy Efficient Design and Water Reclamation System

Putting part of the building underground will enhance energy independence and efficiency, so that building warms up more slowly during summer months and cools down more slowly in winter. In addition, they will install photovoltaic panels, underfloor heating, and a ceiling cooling system. High-efficiency LED lighting will be controlled automatically by the amount of available daylight. Rainwater will be collected from the roof. The complex will also recycle wastewater from showers, washbasins and mechanical structures and use it for flushing toilets and maintaining external surfaces. The estimated cost of the project is 42.9 million HRK (5.77 Million EUR), excluding VAT. This investment will add value and a fresh perspective to the neighborhood, says Damir Oniško, the mayor of the district.

For more information on upcoming architecture competitions and building projects in Croatia, follow our Lifestyle page here.

ZAGREB, December 12, 2019 - Presidential candidate Dario Juričan on Thursday staged a mock show called "An operation to save Croatia" during which he changed the name of Zagreb's King Zvonimir Street to Dr. Ivo Sanader Street, while the Victims of Fascism Square was renamed the Square of USKOK Victims, and the Square of Croatian Great Men the Square of Croatian Tycoons.

Juričan, who during his presidential campaign has been introducing himself as Milan Bandić, briefly put up signs with the new street names, promising that once he came to power, he would "release the former prime minister and HDZ leader from prison" and "turn (the anti-corruption office) USKOK into a PR agency."

"We have renamed this street the Street of Dr. Ivo Sanader. He is a historic figure, an HDZ giant of whom the HDZ is ashamed," Juričan said, adding that Sanader advocated the same values as he did - "corruption for everyone and not just (those in power)."

Juričan briefly renamed the Square of Victims of Fascism the Square of USKOK's Victims, announcing that he would abolish USKOK, the office specialising in the fight against corruption and organised crime.

He said that he had renamed the Square of Croatian Great Men the Square of Croatian Tycoons in honour of Josip Gucić, Miroslav Kutle, Zdravko Mamić and Ivica Todorić, concluding that "those people have been neglected by the state."

Before his performance, Juričan showed reporters his banknotes featuring his image and the slogan "Visionary of corruption" and "Corruption, now or never". After he handed them out, pretending it was a bribe, Juričan said, "Now that we have done this, let's get to work", an allusion to an expression used frequently by Zagreb Mayor Milan Bandić.

More news about presidential elections can be found in the Politics section.

December 12, 2019 - The Zagreb County Tourist Board introduced a new promotional video on December 10, 2019, that shows the natural, cultural and historical landmarks of the County, as well as the important events, traditions, and crafts of the Croatian region, reports HRTurizam.

Tourism is predominantly a service industry and tourism is often referred to as an "industry of experience," which poses many challenges for tourism professionals, said Ivana Alilović, director of the Zagreb County Tourist Board, when presenting the promotional film. "Our goal is to become a competitive tourist destination by 2020, but also to harness the potential that tourism has as a platform for the development of other industries," Alilović added.

The promotional film featured the cooperation of the Zagreb County Tourist Board and Croata in developing promotional scarves with an emphasis on folklore style that bears elements of folk costumes that are closely intertwined with the ethno-style.

"Design is something that repeatedly attracts and overwhelms us with its capabilities - whether its visually or technically, and once this is all harmonized, we become the creators of a beautiful whole. We are proud of the scarf designs created for the Zagreb County Tourist Board. Namely, inspired by folk embroidery, we blended the traditional and the modern, and by composing the motifs of flower petals and leaves, we received an unusual texture that adds to the dynamic of the pattern. A good selection of fashion details has always been crucial and represents the point of every outfit, however classic or modern. We believe that these scarves will be worn with pride,” said Mihaela Grnović Novakovic, Art Director of the Croata fashion brand.

The director of the Zagreb County Tourist Board added that folklore style is not only a unique trend in fashion in general, uniting a wide range of shapes, colors, textures and different variations, but that today they have the opportunity to promote a new fashion accessory from Zagreb County, which was relevant yesterday and will be tomorrow through the further promotion of the Zagreb County tradition.

The promotional film was made in collaboration with Ashley Colburn. 

To read more about travel in Croatia, follow TCN’s dedicated page. 

December 11, 2019 - Dinamo Zagreb and Manchester City met for the final Group C game of the Champions League on Wednesday at Maksimir Stadium. 

The Zagreb club had the chance to achieve another incredible result in the final game of the Champions League group stage, though their opponent was no piece of cake - Manchester City. 

Dinamo came out with a lineup boasting Livaković, Stojanović, Ademi (C), Dilaver, Moubandje, Gojak, Moro, Olmo, Kadzior, Oršić, and Petković. Manchester City, on the other hand, came out with Bravo, Cancelo, Garcia, Otamendi (C), Mendy, Rodri, Gündogan, Foden, Silva, Mahrez, and Jesus. One thing was certain - Dinamo needed a win against City to secure a spot in the Round of 16. 

Dinamo and City kicked off at 6:55 on Wednesday to a sold-out Maksimir Stadium - and the atmosphere was buzzing despite the cold. The Zagreb club was aggressive at the start while City held back and waited for a counterattack. 

However, it was Dinamo to shock Zagreb when Olmo scored for 1:0 in the 10th minute! The goal certainly woke City up, and they continued to press aggressively for the next 20 minutes. Dinamo’s defense remained stable, that is until the 34th minute when Gabriel Jesus scored the equalizer. The game was now 1:1.

Moments before the half, Gojak's nasty elbow to Rodrigo's cheek should have been a red card, though the ref failed to consult VAR - and Dinamo was lucky.

All in all, Dinamo played bravely throughout the half and managed to hold their own. The game ended 1:1 at the half. 

The second half, unfortunately, didn't get off to the best start for the Zagreb side. Already in the 50th minute, Jesus scored for 1:2 City - and four minutes after that, Jesus secured a hat trick for 1:3. 

City made their first change in the 66th minute - Zinchenko came in for Gabriel Jesus, the hero of the night.

City maintained 71% possession of the game, and it wasn't long for them to score again. Foden made it 1:4 in the 83rd minute. 

With this loss against City and Atalanta's win against Shakhtar, Dinamo has been eliminated from the Champions League and will not compete in the Europa League this spring. 

To read more about sport in Croatia, follow TCN’s dedicated page. 

The train ride from Bjelovar to Zagreb via the new Sveti Ivan Žabno - Gradec railway section will be free of charge from December 15 until the end of the year, as a way to celebrate the opening of the new track in Croatia, the first after more than 50 years.

According to zagrebinfo on December 10, 2019 - the agreement on transport co-financing was signed on Monday by Damir Bajs, representing Bjelovarsko-bilogorski county, and the President of Croatia Railways Passenger Transport, Zeljko Ukić. The co-financing for the free railway ticket is at a fifty-fifty ratio, and will apply to all passengers who depart from Bjelovar station to Zagreb via the new Sveti Ivan Žabno – Gradec railway line.

Zagreb to Bjelovar Ticket Prices Reduced for 2020

“The project our county launched 20 years ago has finally been completed. The Sveti Ivan Žabno - Gradec line is one of the most valuable EU projects in this region of Croatia, and it will allow Bjelovar residents to enjoy a suburban-like commute time to Zagreb,” Bajs revealed.

He added that the new railway line brings Bjelovarsko-bilogorski county out of transportation isolation. "I am also looking forward to the new trains which will provide passengers with an enhanced travel experience," Bajs added.

Zeljko Ukić, President of Croatia Railways Passenger Transport, explained that, after free travel ends at the beginning of 2020, next year’s ticket price will be reduced by ten to 25 percent, since the journey from Bjelovar to Zagreb has been shortened by about 15 kilometers.

Zagreb to Bjelovar in 50 Minutes

“I believe that the new railway will mean a lot for the Bjelovarsko-bilogorski, Koprivnica-Križevci and Zagreb counties. The travel time to Zagreb has been reduced to one hour and 11 minutes. When construction is completed on the second track of the Dugo Selo – Križevci railway line it will be further reduced to 50 minutes," Ukić pointed out. He added that seven daily trains will run on the new Zagreb – Bjelovar route, while five will run on the route from Bjelovar to Zagreb. The existing trains will be equipped with air-conditioning, and we are introducing a tilting train. Passengers will certainly enjoy a much more pleasant travel experience, especially during summer months,” he added.

The new Sveti Ivan Žabno – Gradec line is just over 12 kilometers long, with construction costs totaling 240 Million HRK (32.3 Million EUR), with 85 percent of those costs covered by EU funds.

Follow our Travel page for more information on transportation infrastructure improvements in Croatia.

December 11,  2019 - The first conference titled 'All Faces of Sport' was held on Tuesday at the Croatian Chamber of Commerce in Zagreb. Croatia national football team coach Zlatko Dalic was one of the participants. 

“Everything we invest in sports will repeatedly come back to us through better citizens' health and greater productivity at work,” the first conference revealed, which was held on Tuesday at the Croatian Chamber of Commerce, reports Index.hr.

"The successes of our athletes in major competitions are disproportionate to the size and population of our country, and if we had as many talented business people as we did athletes, what would our end be," said the Croatian Chamber of Commerce President Luka Burilovic, welcoming the conference participants.

Along with several prominent figures from Croatia’s economic and sports life, the conference was also attended by the coach of the national football team, Zlatko Dalic, who emphasized that we made little use of the great success at the World Cup in Russia.

"After the big words and the euphoria of winning second place in the world, we almost did not achieve anything after that, because not only are we nowhere near the construction of a national stadium, but today many tourists at Zagreb Advent can’t buy the recognizable checkered jersey anywhere,” Dalic said and concluded that the biggest gains of the World Cup success are the unity of the people and that several young people have started playing football.

Croatian Olympic Committee President Zlatko Matesa said Croatia does not need a national stadium but a functioning football stadium.

"We have national stadiums in Split, Rijeka, Osijek, Pula, Varazdin, Zagreb and all other cities where the football team plays, and we must use the funds from Europe to build sports infrastructure, as Slovenia did," Matesa said, emphasizing that the halls that were built for the 2009 World Cup in handball are rarely used for sports purposes and are repaid from the funds intended for sports.

Mayor of Split Andro Krstulovic Opara said that Split boasts the title of "the sportiest city in the world and the surrounding area", and allocates 93 million kuna or nine percent of the budget for sports, while the city of Zagreb allocates 11 times more.

Finance Minister Zdravko Maric said that as much as the state invests in sports, it will never be adequate for all the benefits we receive from sports.

"This government has doubled its funding for sports, which will exceed 400 million kuna in the Olympic year. I am aware that by the percentage of allocations we are among the poorest in Europe. Still, nevertheless, we have much more reason to look forward to the success of our athletes than the citizens of countries that are much more dedicated to sports,” concluded Minister Maric.

The chairman of the Zagreb Holding Board Ana Stoic Deban said that the company looks after 160 sports facilities.

"The Maksimir stadium is still far from being built and we will first get new pools in Spansko, Dubrava and Salata in Zagreb, because all the pools have the necessary documentation and contracts for contractors and are in the final stage," said Stoic Deban.

The Vice President of the Croatian Chamber of Commerce and one of the organizers of the conference, Mirjana Cagalj, emphasized that sport at the European level generates more than two percent of the GDP and that Croatia is still far from that average.

"We must invest in sports infrastructure, but also to provide a sufficient number of professional people for the development of sports as an industry," Cagalj said.

To read more about sport in Croatia, follow TCN’s dedicated page. 

December 10, 2019 - No guided tour is the same, but there is one company in Croatia that guarantees quality, innovation, engagement and the personal touch each time - roadtesting the Secret Zagreb experience. 

As we approached the Zagreb funicular for our 19:30 late November appointment, I was a little nervous as to how this would go. It has been a long day, it was not warm, we still had a 75-minute drive home, and if the kids were grumpy, this could really backfire. But then I figured that there was not much point living close to Zagreb if we did not experience what it had to offer as a family. But still, it was cold, dark, the day and been long, and the kids' enthusiasm for one of Daddy's Great Ideas - a walking tour with some 'teta' - was lukewarm at best. 

And there she was, waiting, dressed in black, including her hooded head, holding a lantern which was not lit. 

"Good evening, I am the Black Queen, and I need your help."

There was no recognition that we had met before, that we were friends even, no 21st welcome, but straight into character from the character of the Black Queen, who had risen from a 100-year sleep with the dragons somewhere below Zagreb. 

I looked anxiously at the kids - how would they react?

They were hooked. 

And from that moment, for the next two hours, the artist formally known as Iva Silla, charismatic owner of Secret Zagreb, led my kids (and their parents and aunt) on a mesmerising tour of the upper town of Zagreb in her persona of the Black Queen. A modern version of the Pied Piper of Hamlin, pointing out fascinating things along the way, dropping in appropriate jokes, then moving on. 

We were all made aware from the start that, in addition to the tour, we would have to fulfil a task at the end to help the Black Queen. A list of clues would send us scampering all over the old town to retrace the steps of where we had been and the things we had learned to solve a clue which would provide the code to unlock the padlock of the lantern that the Black Queen held in her hand. Once unlocked, more clues would lead to the candle being lit, so that she could go back to where she had come from. 

The kids were mesmerised. Having resigned myself as a parent of two daughters attached to their gadgets, this was a revelation. Pens were found, notes taken on the palm of their hands, questions asked, suggestions made - in fact, they were far more engaged than the three adults. But the Black Queen did not break from character once, which made her mysterious, slightly intimidating, but totally transfixing. 

Some very simple techniques of storytelling were used to superb effect. As this was the first time the Black Queen had returned to Zagreb above ground in 100 years, she was easily able to reference the past and have us appreciate the changes. 

"Yes, this is the shortest funicular in the world," she told us as we made the short ascent to the upper town, "but standards have really gone down. Last time I was on it, 100 years ago, they had first, second AND third class."

The Black Queen was looking forward to showing us the view from the top. 

"You will love the endless cornfields you can see from the edge of the city. But wait, what's this? What has happened? The last time I was here, the last building in the city was that yellow one over there (the Croatian National Theatre). Where have all the cornfields gone?"

Simple techniques to allow tourists to appreciate how Zagreb has changed in 100 years. 

Sleeping Dragon Quest is inspired by interesting local legends. Before the game begins, our tour guide in a costume presents old tales about dragons and some mystical history. She gives them a book of instructions and tasks. The winner is the first team to solve all the riddles and finds the last required location.

HIGHLIGHTS:

storyline based on Zagreb legends

solve riddles and find the clues within the oldest part of town

stories about dragons brought back to life

And so we walked, following our Pied Piper, learning all about the dragons, the secret societies involving dragons, forgotten graveyards, earthquakes masked as stirring dragons. All expertly and engagingly told, but in a way that really brought the past to life and revealed knowledge of events and characters of the time. 

And the Black Queen somehow knew her audience. 

"But I hear you are from Varazdin, the Baroque town, yes?. Well, don't be angry, but they say that the very best Baroque building in Croatia is this one in front of you. Haha. Let's move on!"

With most people in the city centre the night before the opening of Advent in Zagreb, we more or less had the streets of the upper town to ourselves, and there was a certain magic being guided (or was it glided?) around by the Black Queen. It had been just over an hour and we had taken in SO many facts, stories and impressions. But how much had we retained?

Despite our reluctance, the Black Queen was quietly insistent in her assertion that the quest would work better if we split into groups of two. Realising that Aunt Tina was smarter than both parents combined, the girls took their clues from the Black Queen and headed off in the direction of the main cemetery, leaving my wife and I asking each other how much we had been listening. 

The clues were presented in lovely rhyming couplets, and off we went, retracing our steps. Five clues would yield a letter each, which in turn would produce the three-digit code to unlock the lantern. We saw our competing team racing eagerly through the dimly lit, but very romantic streets, and it was little surprise that they managed to get all the clues before us. Having unlocked the lantern, however, we were not yet there - there was one more step, to get the lantern lit. And in order to do that, another task had to be performed. One which was mastered by a beady-eyed 11-year-old who was so engrossed in the Black Queen's world that I doubted she would need a gadget for a week. 

An absolutely fantastic family activitiy, and the Black Queen kindly had time to join us for a hot chocolate after the tour, where she reverted to the lovely Iva we all know and love. 

And this, for me at least, was the best part of an excellent evening, as Iva was VERY interested to get our feedback on every aspect of the tour.  For what perhaps many people who take her tours do not realise is that she is the creative and pioneering author of all of them. Many of them, such as Badass Women of Zagreb, and the 19th century tour where you, the tourist, are accused of a crime and have to find clues to prove your innocence, are Iva's ideas alone. And not content with being just the creator, her expert delivery as such an engaging guide completes the perfect package. 

"Dad, that was the best tour we have ever been on. I really liked the way the Black Queen told us everything but then we had to go and solve clues. It was really great, and so was the Black Queen. You know some really cool people."

The aura of me being a cool Dad survives for another week. Thank you, Black Queen...  

Learn more about how Iva can inspire you as the Black Queen or her many other personas on the Secret Zagreb website.