September 30, 2022 - From the canals of Aljmaš; and the slopes of Erdut, after having enjoyed steaming hot fish stew from a hanging pot and wine from the largest barrel in the world, continue your journey east, and you will shortly arrive in Dalj. Another hidden gem of Slavonia and Croatia. A place where the Danube is just the right temperature in the summer, where the fruits taste sweet, and where the stars aligned to make it the birthplace of one of the greats.
The first signs of life in Dalj date back to the Bronze Age, around 1350 BC. One of its first names, from the Roman times, was Teutoburgium, and its significance was that it was positioned on one of the four main routes towards Dalmatia. Just like the rest of eastern Croatia, Dalj underwent changes in power and demography, resulting in a rich heritage mix of Catholic, Orthodox Christian, and Ottoman influences. The Christian religions remained and are both still an essential part of Dalj’s culture. The silhouette of the village is adorned with Catholic and Orthodox churches, and the church of St. Demetrius is the largest cathedral of the Serbian Orthodox Church in Croatia. Right next to it, an inviting palace with a garden full of flowers – the summer residence of the church’s patriarchs found its home. Naturally, its location is prime, with only a green park between it and the Danube.
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The Danube, of course, is what life revolves around. The geography of the village has remained such that people from every part of the village can reach the riverbank quickly and straightforwardly. They go there to walk, relax, swim, fish, or enjoy nature. In the summer, the Dalj beach is the absolute centre of all activity. Gathering from all parts of the village, families, and friends either walk, swim, or let the Danube take their boats there. Once they’ve reached the sand and the shade of the banks, the party can start. Whether beach volleyball, music, drinks, or barbecue, something happens daily to keep everybody’s minds off the summer heat.
Just like Aljmaš and Erdut, Dalj is an excellent stop on the Danube not only for refreshment and activities but for wine and food. The local gastronomy shines bright in Stari Mlin, a restaurant serving the best of Slavonia daily, with live music on weekends, occasional events, and special celebrations. It is a trendy venue for team buildings as well. There is plenty of room both indoors and on their summer terrace.
Restoran Stari Mlin
The menu celebrates the Danube, with carp, catfish, and perch taking centre stage and plenty of meat dishes in supporting roles. We recommend calling in advance to try out their famous traditional catfish stew or fire-roasted carp. Even if you’re not feeling hungry, sit down for dessert or coffee and enjoy the view and the Danube breeze.
Steve Tsentserensky
After a delicious filling meal, it would be a mistake not to let your heart take you straight to wine. A special surprise awaits in Dalj. Head over to the Antunović winery, the first female-owned and established Croatian winery, and find out why it became one of the most awarded wineries in Croatia.
If you’re looking for a specific reason to visit Dalj, where you can experience the lovely autumn atmosphere while learning about the local traditions, try the Fair of Old Crafts and Customs and Gužvara Fest. Use the chance to try out traditional tools and witness true craftsmanship or taste some of the local delicacies. The emphasis lies on Gužvara – a traditional yeast dough dessert filled with ground walnuts or poppy seeds. It is a must-serve at Slavonian feasts and gatherings. Saturday, the 8th of October, is the day.
Tradition is an integral part of life in Croatian villages. Following suit, the big days in Dalj include kirbaj (also known as kirvaj), Crkveni God for the Catholic population, and Krsna Slava for Orthodox families. Both events celebrate the village's and family patron saints, respectively.
Finally, let us not forget to mention Dalj's greatest - Milutin Milanković. This mind of the future, an influential mathematician, physicist, and astronomer, was born in Dalj, went on to travel Europe for his studies and work, but came to some of his most important conclusions right in his backyard, inspired by the Danube and a big pine tree, which still stands there 143 years later. Stay tuned to find out more about, possibly, Croatia's most underrated museum.
Steve Tsentserensky
Special thanks to Jovana, the Erdut Municipality Tourist Board directorErdut Municipality Tourist Board, and the perfect host for our day in Dalj.
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