December 3, 2022 – Having passed through Vukovar, the Croatian Danube continues its journey east toward Ilok. We reach the slopes of Fruška Gora, which is positioned just above the picturesque little villages, helping the river frame them.
When my family moved back to Vukovar in 1999, there was not a lot to do. Shops and playrooms weren’t really a thing, and my brother and I (4 and 6) spent most of our time outside. Hanging around the Danube in the summer, making snowmen in the winter. Year after year.
From time to time, we would get into the car to go on a family field trip. These special occasions were filled with laughter and excitement because the road would always surprise us anew. My dad would speed up on the little hills, making us feel like we were riding a rollercoaster and there was something to learn between them. We saw our first hazelnut trees, learned the difference between apple and pear trees, and we could even tell apart different kinds of crops. And the grapevines were always so much fun to look at. They stretched so far and wide that it felt like we were racing them.
The road follows the course of the Danube, and it leads to Šarengrad. That’s where the Danube kisses the sky, as sung by Josipa Lisac. And between Vukovar and Šarengrad came our first fish – som (Croatian for catfish). SOM stood for Sotin, Opatovac, and Mohovo, and it was a mnemonic taught to my mom by her father, who spent all his free time fishing in the Danube. To make sure that you get the villages in the correct order. When I was six, I thought it was the coolest wordplay ever; then, I thought it was kinda lame; now I’m sure that I’ll take my kids on the same road trip and teach them the same trick. In the newest edition of our Croatian Danube series, we will discover Sotin, Opatovac, Mohovo (som), and Šarengrad.
Sotin
- Sotin is a tiny village adjacent to Vukovar, with a population of about 700. Sadly, during the homeland war, as much as 10% of Sotin’s population was either killed or taken away, and many have not yet been found. That is why the first thing that you see in Sotin will be a monument dedicated to those people and their sacrifice. And though the village is relatively small, its location right next to Vukovar and on the crossroads of some other villages from the direction of Ilok makes it a convenient stop for refreshments.
Vukovar Tourist Board
If you’re looking to have a drink or a bite of delicious local dishes, make a stop in Gondola Sotin. Gondola is a family run picnic ground and restaurant, with a few rooms available as well. The whole place is decorated with traditional patterns of Syrmia, telling the story of this beautiful area. In addition to daily operations, they host events, celebrations, and more, so it could be a good choice for a team building as well.
Opatovac
In Opatovac there’s a church, a small shop, a lake, and an internationally successful ping-pongng team. This even smaller village counts roughly three hundred people these days. Its residents will tell you there’s nothing to do, yet they spend most of their time hanging out in their little village. The first written recordings of its existence date as far back as 1387, when it was the home to a monastery. The reason why people settled there was its rich soil, which to this day remains one of the most fruitful areas in all of Europe.
Lovas Municipality
Opatovac is the ideal place to rest, recharge, and wander around in nature. The most appreciated location in the village, especially if you visit in the summer, is undoubtedly the Opatovac Ada. On this river island, all locals and some visitors like to go swimming, camping, or just chilling in the shade. The volleyball tournaments that happen here are an experience in themselves. We would like to thank Andrija Pole for the pleasant conversation about his home village.
Mohovo
Welcome to the Mammoth Valley! Similar to Opatovac in size, Mohovo hides own little secrets. Though it only has about three hundred residents, they do know how to come together and show off their piece of paradise to the world. Thanks to Goran Popović and the association Dolina Mamuta (Mammoth Valley), the village is well on its way to becoming known as an epic place where remains of prehistoric animals can be found. So far, multiple mammoth teth and rhinoceros remains have been found right there.
Udruga Dolina Mamuta FB
So far, the association has ensured that the remains were arranged into an exhibition, hosted two Mammothfests, and has put up educational materials around the valley for all visitors to learn along. In addition to promoting their history, the association regularly organises events for the village residents, like Fišijada (fish stew cook-off), the upcoming Christmas market, and more. Mohovo is the perfect little place to feel the spirit of community.
Udruga Dolina Mamuta FB
Šarengrad
Last, but not least, we have arrived in Šarengrad. The arrival there feels like you’re entering a fairytale -you are high on a hill, you can see the remains of a fortress on your left, a little settlement on your right, and the Danube framing it just below. Oh, and there’s a giant sign saying “Gdje Dunav ljubi nebo” (Where the Danube kisses the sky). And you know that it’s right here as soon as you see it.
Violeta Kovačević - Viki Vu Fotografije
That is the perfect description of Šarengrad. The remains of the fortress date back to the 15th century, and there was info that the village might even date back to the 11th century. The village is slightly bigger than its neighbours, with some eight hundred residents, but it is still on its path of recovery. There might not be much to do there, but a day of exploring the fortress and hiking the bank of the river in perfect peace is all the escape that one might need. And though Šarengrad does not mean the colourful city like we thought when we were kids (in Croatian šaren = colourful), but is just a Hungarian word for Syrmia, the colours of Šarengrad in the spring or in autumn will leave you speechless. That’s a promise.
Violeta Kovačević - Viki Vu Fotografije
Discover the Croatian Danube with us and check out Aljmaš part 1 and part 2, Erdut, Dalj and Milutin Milankovic, and Vukovar. Stay tuned for the finale of the series – Ilok.
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