Friday, 12 March 2021

Dubrovnik Mayor Mato Frankovic on Digital Nomads, US Flights, 2021 Season

March 12, 2021 - With the pandemic affecting its 2020 tourist season more than most of Croatia, Dubrovnik is actively gearing up for new markets and strategies for 2021. TCN caught up with Dubrovnik Mayor Mato Frankovic.

Nowhere suffered more in Croatian tourism last year than its most famous destination - Dubrovnik. Located in the far south of the country, it is heavily reliant on flight and cruise ship tourism for the bulk of its tourism business. Unlike more northern destinations in Croatia which were more accessible by car, Dubrovnik was forced into a rethink on its tourism strategy to deal with the current pandemic realities. 

Rather than sit back and hope for the best, Dubrovnik Mayor Mato Frankovic has taken the initiative to position the Pearl of the Adriatic as a prime destination in the emerging digital nomad tourism opportunity. Dubrovnik hosted Croatia's first-ever digital nomad conference in October last year, Dubrovnik for Digital Nomads, an event organised by Saltwater Nomads with support from TCN. 

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(Applications for the competition close on March 31 - you can learn more about it and apply here).

Inspired by the success of that conference and the global interest it generated, the Dubrovnik Mayor and his team have been working closely with Saltwater Nomads and TCN to develop a strategy to attract remote workers to the city. Last week, the Dubrovnik Digital Nomads-in-Residence competition was launched, the first of its kind in the world.

TCN caught up with the Dubrovnik Mayor to talk more about that, as well as the 2021 season prognosis, rumours of direct flights from New York, Dubrovnik's perception of an expensive destination, and more. 

1. You are one of the most famous destinations in the world, heavily reliant on cruise and flight tourism. What was the full effect of the pandemic on Dubrovnik tourism last year?

The figures are the best thing to look at when it comes to testifying to the situation, and they say that Dubrovnik ended the year with 20 percent of the total number of overnight stays when comparing to 2019. The fact that we depend the most on flights hit us the hardest. On top of that, among the most affected in the entire tourism industry is the cruise industry, which also makes up a significant part of tourism in Dubrovnik.

2. In October, you hosted Croatia's first-ever digital nomad conference. Tell us about the initiative and the opportunity for your city.

Turning Dubrovnik towards digital nomads is part of a serious focus being placed on diversifying our tourist offer and developing new facilities. The COVID-19 pandemic has significantly affected tourism-related economies, and Dubrovnik has felt significant consequences in this regard. At the same time, we have become aware of the fact of just how many people work from home today and how their numbers will only continue to grow over time, and that there are a certain number of people who can do their job from anywhere in the world. Due to this we noticed the possibility of expanding our offer to people who want to stay in a beautiful and comfortable environment, be on a holiday of sorts, and still do their jobs online.

In addition, these are special types of tourists who stay in a destination for longer than average and want to participate in local life by consuming content intended for the local population, not exclusively for tourists. In this sense, the promotion that is realised through the competition we launched is extremely important to us, especially if we know that a large number of influencers are among those individuals.

3. The Dubrovnik Nomad-in-Residence competition is a unique concept. Tell us a little about the type of applicant you are hoping to attract and what your expectations are from the programme. 

We expect the programme to map Dubrovnik out as a desirable destination for digital nomads. We want to get first-hand feedback on what is good for digital nomads in Dubrovnik and what needs to be improved. We also expect that in this way we´ll be able to promote the city as a tourist and destination for digital nomads and we believe that all those who will come to stay here will also become ambassadors of Dubrovnik across the world.

4. If you had to summarise in a sentence why Dubrovnik is a great place for digital nomads, what would you say?

I´d say that Dubrovnik has everything you need for a pleasant time when it comes to both working and staying here - beautiful surroundings and a good internet connection, as well as everything that makes life somewhere more beautiful, from the tradition of living in the Mediterranean to the local customs to the very many sunny days per year.

5. There are perceptions in some quarters that Dubrovnik is very expensive and there is not much to do once you walk through the old town. What would you say to that?

Of course, Dubrovnik has its exclusive facilities and offers, as have all of the world's top destinations. But Dubrovnik has an offer for everyone, from hostels and private accommodation to facilities in attractive and expensive positions, from exclusive restaurants to pleasant city cafes, where Dubrovnik´s locals sit down to drink their favourite coffee.

The historic core itself has so many nooks and crannies that you can go on discovering places for weeks, there are also numerous museums and events. For example, if you are here in winter, you simply have to feel what Christmas in Dubrovnik is like, as well as our thousand-year-long tradition related to the Feast of Sveti Vlaho, the patron saint of Dubrovnik, whom we celebrate on February the 3rd. (You can read more about TCN's impressions of a visit to the Feast of St Blaise a few years ago here).

In the immediate vicinity near the historic centre of the city is the Lokrum reserve, the Arboretum in Trsteno, the lookout on Srdj, the Elafiti islands with their sandy beaches. The advantage of Dubrovnik is its truly phenomenal environment, from Konavle to Peljesac and the island of Korcula, which both offer, for example, excellent indigenous varieties of wine, great local gastronomy and natural features. There is also the island of Mljet where there is a national park with gorgeous lakes. There is also the very close proximity of Bosnia and Herzegovina and Montenegro, which can also be interesting for day trips.

6. Dubrovnik has had some excellent coverage in the US media over the last year, including 12.5 million viewers on ABC's Good Morning America, and you currently have an ongoing campaign in 73 US airports. How important is the American market to Dubrovnik?

Along with the British, the Americans are our most important guests. That market is extremely important to us and Americans love Dubrovnik a lot. That´s why there is constant investment in terms of promotion over on the American market. The fact that Croatia was the only country open to American tourists in the whole of the European Union last year speaks volumes about how important the US is to us.

7. Direct flights from the States would obviously help. A new story of a direct flight to Dubrovnik from New York surfaced this week, and Philadelphia and Dubrovnik were connected before the pandemic. Can you share any updates?

That was a fantastic announcement and we certainly support such initiatives. However, neither we nor the Dubrovnik Airport have yet had any final confirmation of these flights. If those announcements really come to fruition, it will be great for tourism here and for those Americans who want to come to Dubrovnik.

8. And finally, what is your prognosis for this season? Will the cruise ships return? And are the days of overtourism in your city gone forever?

The good news is that since March the 1st, the bans on cruise ships to Croatian ports was lifted. It should be noted that cruise companies have invested a lot in passenger safety and we certainly have good expectations in that regard, considering that cruisers should start setting off in May.

Of course, the situation in tourism will mostly depend on the further development of the coronavirus pandemic, but the fact is that we ourselves are working hard to ensure the best possible conditions and to facilitate a smooth arrival in Croatia for tourists. In our most important markets, vaccination is progressing very well, so I´m optimistic and expect that we could have higher numbers in June. Dubrovnik is certainly working a lot on health security and that is a very important factor for us.

As far as overtourism is concerned, in the period before the pandemic we continuously worked on measures to combat that issue through the Respect the City project and we really laid down a good foundation for the future, so we have all the predispositions for the development of sustainable tourism. This period we´re going through now has allowed us to prioritise things and continue with the activities of this project because although we now have a large reduction in the number of tourists, we haven´t given up on the direction of sustainable tourism. We can say that we have recognised the pandemic as an opportunity to "reset".

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The deadline to apply for the Dubrovnik Digital Nomads-in-Residence competition is March 31. You can learn more about the requirements and apply on the Saltwater Nomads website.

The Dubrovnik Digital Nomads-in-Residence competition is a partnership between the City of Dubrovnik, Dubrovnik Tourist Board, Croatian National Tourist Board, Saltwater Nomads and Total Croatia News. 

Looking to learn more about Dubrovnik? Check out the fully updated Total Croatia Dubrovnik in a Page guide

Tuesday, 9 March 2021

Pragusa Launching Flights from Dubrovnik to New York, Beijing, and Tokyo this Summer?

March 9, 2021 - Will there be flights from Dubrovnik to New York, Beijing, and more international destinations this summer? One new British startup is looking to serve the United States, China, Japan, and more from bases in Dubrovnik and Prague. Meet Pragusa. 

Croatian Aviation reports that Pragusa, a startup founded in Great Britain, has interesting plans for Dubrovnik in the upcoming summer season.

Namely, Pragusa (a combination of the names of Prague and Dubrovnik - Ragusa) plans to launch an interesting program in the upcoming summer flight schedule, and base two wide-body aircraft in both cities to launch lines to world-famous destinations!

According to Simple Flying, the company has already received an incentive support program from both airports and plans to base two aircraft in both cities. 

Pragusa plans to offer direct flights from Dubrovnik to New York, Los Angeles, Kuala Lumpur, Chengdu, Beijing, Tokyo, Singapore, and Johannesburg from June this year, hoping to fill a market gap for premium travel to CE Europe. 

Recall, American Airlines will not run the daily Philadelphia-Dubrovnik service this summer, while Qatar Airways canceled the Doha-Dubrovnik route.

"Before the pandemic, American Airlines used to operate flights between Philadelphia and Dubrovnik. Booking data via OAG Traffic Analyser shows that approximately two-thirds of all passengers that American Airlines flew on this route were transfer passengers.

The majority of them came from Chicago (ORD), Los Angeles (LAX), San Francisco (SFO), Boston (BOS), and Charlotte (CLT). A total of over 10,000 passengers reached Dubrovnik by transferring on this American Airlines service to Philadelphia alone," Simple Flying writes. 

The Pragusa fleet should consist of two aircraft types A350-900 and two types A330-300, with custom capacity. Namely, the aircraft will have only one class in the passenger cabin, or premium economy, with a maximum capacity of 250 passengers.

Simply Flying adds that Pragusa passengers will have a choice:

- 7-day trip with organized tours in the destination, e.g. New York - Dubrovnik - New York,

- 14-day trip to Europe with arrival in Dubrovnik and return from Prague (or vice versa),

- the possibility of buying a one-way ticket, e.g. Dubrovnik - Tokyo,

- classic return tickets on the listed lines.

Croatian Aviation believes that the plan is, to say the least, optimistic, especially in this crisis year. The realization of a project of this scale might not be so risky in the record 2019, but given the reduced passenger demand and the current restrictions on travel between countries, it is really brave to launch such a project today?

What do you think about the potential of Pragusa launching flights from Dubrovnik to New York and more this summer?

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Tuesday, 9 March 2021

Croatia Should Welcome Vaccinated UK Tourists without Restrictions, Says Dubrovnik Mayor

March 9, 2021 - Dubrovnik Mayor Mato Franović announced on Monday that Croatia should welcome vaccinated UK tourists without restrictions and all Britons who overcame COVID-19 or have a negative PCR test from May 1, 2021. 

HRTurizam writes that the UK is currently the focus of all tourist destinations.

It is also among the top three countries globally in terms of vaccinating citizens, with only Israel and the United Arab Emirates (UAE) vaccinating more citizens. By Sunday, at least 21 million Britons were given their first dose. About 400,000 citizens are vaccinated every week, which is why all tourist countries are turning directly to the British market, from Greece, the Canary Islands, Turkey, Cyprus, Spain, and many other countries, because it is in British tourists that should travel en masse first due to high vaccination coverage.

The mayor of Dubrovnik, Mato Franković, is keeping this in mind. After a recent initiative to enable tourists at Croatian airports to be tested for COVID, he launched a new initiative aimed precisely at tourists from Great Britain.

Namely, Franković sent a proposal to the competent ministries to agree with the United Kingdom for British guests.

All Britons who received two doses of vaccine overcame COVID-19 or have a negative PCR test would be allowed to come to Croatia on vacation without restrictions. May 1.

"The UK market is the most important tourist market in the city of Dubrovnik, and since the UK left the European Union, its guests are considered guests from third countries, and the quarantine obligation is in force upon arrival at the destination. Given that such a measure could seriously jeopardize the season, this proposal was made, following the examples of Cyprus and Portugal that have concluded such agreements," said Franković, adding that leading British media report almost daily on which European Union countries the British are allowed to enter without having to quarantine upon arrival.

The consequences of Dubrovnik's inclusion on the UK red list are most clearly shown by the numbers of arrivals, according to which Dubrovnik ended 2020 with 20% of the total number of overnight stays compared to the number of overnight stays in 2019, concluded Franković.

Both initiatives are focused on air guests because the city of Dubrovnik is extremely dependent on air traffic. Still, they also show the mayor's proactivity and determination to define some things much faster. There is not much time until summer, and everyone is currently targeting the UK market with marketing messages. 

The European Union will present a "digital green pass" on March 17, i.e., to present the framework of the Member States' decision regarding Covid passports and all other open issues regarding opening to tourism. It is also important to point out that according to Minister Brnjac, Croatia is considering a model that would allow tourists to be tested by rapid antigen tests, as well as PCR testing at several points, which will be decided in cooperation with regional tourist boards and the Croatian Institute of Public Health.

On the topic of introducing digital green passports that would enable easier travel, and at the same time provide air destinations with a faster tourist recovery, Dubrovnik Mayor Mato Franković held a meeting with the Director-General of the European Region of Airports Council International Olivier Jankovec and the president of the Air Transport Association at the Croatian Chamber of Commerce, Tonči Peović.

Olivier Jankovec informed Mayor Franković that 100 European airports had introduced COVID testing so far. Still, he believes that the full implementation of the system requires urgent harmonization of recognizing rapid antigen tests between the EU member states, allowing easier travel.

On the other hand, Mayor Franković presented the initiatives and protocols proposed by the City of Dubrovnik, which relate to travel from all countries, regardless of whether they are part of the EU or not. The proposal introduces the rules according to the zones 'green', 'orange' and 'red,' and following them; guests would have certain conditions for coming to Croatia. Thus, the goal is not to stop travel but to make it possible for everyone under certain conditions.

Do you believe that Croatia should welcome vaccinated UK tourists without restrictions from May 1 this year?

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Monday, 8 March 2021

Croatian-American Psychology Professor Mala Matacin on Gender Equality in Croatia

March 8, 2021 - "It's not discrimination, but I noticed that my gender mattered differently in Croatia in terms of marital status and traveling alone," said Croatian-American Psychology Professor Mala Matacin about gender equality in Croatia.

Like every year, 2021 is no different, and March 8 is marked as International Women's Day. The day that celebrates women's emancipation but sadly reminds us that the battle for true equality is still ongoing. Given that massive gatherings still aren't recommended due to the coronavirus pandemic, the annual Noćni Marš (Night March) in Zagreb will not be held this year as confirmed by the feminist collective Faktiv that regularly organizes the event. On the other hand, this year has seen gruesome stories and confessions of sexual abuse, harassment, and even rape all over the Balkans and Croatia too, as is evident by the posts and public outcry gathered by Nisam tražila (I didn't ask for it), an initiative that connects women (as well as male victims of sexual violence) and provides a safe space to share their stories anonymously). What do these recent events tell us about gender equality and does Croatia fall behind on gender equality compared to the US or other Western countries?

Dr. Mala Matacin is a born American. If that sounds odd, it's not just because of the Croatian surname but also because her name is a female gender version of the Croatian noun for „little“ (malo). Her father is from Preko on the island of Ugljan and her grandfather on her mother’s side was from Gromača, a village near Dubrovnik. From September 2019 to March 2020, she was on an academic sabbatical in Croatia where she still has a family and is very enthusiastic about re-visiting post-pandemic. Apart from being on a quest for her family’s roots, she spent her time meeting with academics and students at several universities and learning from activists. One of the highlights of her time here was being able to attend and participate in „Night March“ last International Woman’s Day. When it’s safe to travel, she hopes to bring students to Croatia for a short-term study abroad program.  

Matacin has a Ph.D. in Social Psychology with post-doctorate training in Behavioral and Preventive Medicine. She is teaching at the College of Arts and Sciences, the University of Hartford in the state of Connecticut. Her research is focused on women’s health (primarily in the issues of body image and stress), women’s leadership, and the relationship between images and social change. Matacin also has an interest in gender issues and she started and teaches a course „Women, Weight, and Worry” which according to the official Hartford University website is a „popular University honors course“. She also teaches a freshman year course  “Beauty, Body Image, and Feminism”.  She has designed two new University courses—one focused on systems of oppression and the other focused on photography and activism. Additionally, Dr. Matacin is the founder and faculty advisor for “Women for Change”, a campus organization focused on gender and other equity issues.  She has received multiple awards for her work (“Outstanding Teacher Award” in 1999, “Excellence in Service to Students” in 2010 by Sigma Alpha Pi, the National Society for Leadership and Success, “Innovation in Teaching and Learning Award” in 2018, the “Roy E. Larsen Award for Excellence in Teaching and Contributions to University Life” and “Outstanding Faculty Award” in 2019).  A 2009 post-graduation survey done by the Career Center named Dr. Matacin one of the three top faculty members in the entire University of Hartford community as a faculty member who had a major/positive impact on students. Just last weekend, during the opening ceremony of the Association for Women in Psychology virtual conference, she received the organization's mentoring award.

I spoke to her about her experiences from Croatia, legal frame, Sex-ED, and what does she overall think about gender equality in the country compared to the US.
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prof. Mala Matacin at Noćni marš (Night March) / private archive

You first came to Croatia in 2020. You participated in the Noćni Marš in 2020 for the International Women's Day in Zagreb. Can you tell us more about how you came about with the organizers, you even hosted workshops for the participants right?

On March 1, 2019, I attended a workshop organized by Faktiv (a feminist collective) and Le Zbor (the first mixed lesbian-feminist choir/band) to learn the “Patrijarhat Siluje" chant and performance.  “Patrijarhat Siluje" (Patriarch Rapes) is a translation of the Chilean protest anthem (“Un Violador en Tu Camino”) about rape culture and victim shaming. We learned the chant and choreographed performance to perform during the march (Noćni Marš).  At the workshop, I also met several women who were part of Žene ženama, an organization that provides a safe space for women who are refugees/asylum seekers and call Croatia their home. I’m grateful to this organization for generously including me and marching behind their banner on March 8th (Noćni Marš ). In the United States, I participated in similar chants and dances to protest violence against women and girls.  So, being in Zagreb for International Women's Day was an extraordinary experience for me. Over 7,000 people took to the streets for Noćni Marš starting from Trg žrtava fašizma. The theme was Živio feminizam! Živio 8 Mart (Long live feminism! Long live March 8th!) and I was honored to stand with my Croatian sisters and meet new friends and colleagues at the protest. 

What do you think about Croatian gender equality activists? From what you had the chance to see, are they doing a good enough job in advocating solutions to these problems, or is there something they still have to learn from their colleagues in the US or other western countries?

I spent most of my time connecting with scholars doing academic work on issues related to gender and didn't meet activist groups until March. My unexpected return to the United States that month due to the coronavirus did not leave me with as much time to interact as I wanted to. What I did experience was quite similar to those I'm familiar with—intelligent, good community organizing, active in their efforts to address gender and other social inequities, warm and generous (as evidenced by their willingness to accept me into their midst), and finding creative ways to get their message across.  Activism is most commonly associated with public protest and marches, but artists can use their medium (for example, poetry, photography, performance, music) to challenge systemic injustices, and I was able to see and meet several artists in Croatia who were doing that.  

Were you informed about gender equality problems in Croatia before coming to the country or was meeting up with activists in Croatia an eye-opener for you? Was there something about them that surprised or shocked you that you didn't expect to hear?

I was on my academic sabbatical in Croatia from September 2019 – March 2020.  In preparation for coming to Croatia, I tried to read as much as I could about the state of affairs for women and the LGBTQ+ community and the country's efforts to address gender inequalities. For example, I found out about the Ombudswoman's Office for Gender Equality and was lucky to meet with two representatives in the office in February 2020,  I spent the first three months of my time in Croatia in Dubrovnik and the last four months in Zagreb.  This is important because I found a difference between these two parts of the country.  Dubrovnik is more conservative and it wasn't until I got to Zagreb that I found people doing activist work. Also, although I am American-born, I am Croatian on both parents' sides. As such, I'm familiar with the patriarchal Croatian family dynamics; in fact, it's one of the reasons I'm so interested in gender issues because it's personal.  

It's such a great question about anything that surprised or shocked me. I probably could write an entire article on the things that were surprising (and I should!), but as for shocking—there is one—the #MeToo movement not gaining traction in Croatia. In the United States, the movement exploded in 2017 and was very much part of the country's narrative but I found it surprisingly absent in Croatia. Instead, I learned about the #spasime movement which is centered around domestic violence (very much focused on the family unit). Thanks to you, I have also been made aware of „Nisam tražila“ which some are arguing is the Balkans #MeToo movement.  What is striking to me is the similarity in the way both #MeToo and „Nisam tražila“ gained „sudden“ attention and visibility—both were popularized by actresses within their respective countries.  In this way, there is value to those who can use their privilege to bring attention and visibility to social injustices that grass-roots activists spend most of their lives addressing.  

You are born in the US but aware and proud of your Croatian roots. The Croatian diaspora is big and quite well-formed in the US. Are you associated with other Croats in the US and how does the diaspora feel and think (if it even follows) the gender inequality in the country? The liberal stream in Croatia often looks negatively on the diaspora as they see them as conservative, uninformed, or indifferent about the actual problems in Croatia despite having and exercising voting rights on Croatian elections. Do you vote as well?

Unfortunately, I have never lived in a part of the U.S. where there has been a strong, well-connected Croatian community. Much to the dismay of extended family who did grow up within the Croatian diaspora, my siblings and I do not speak Croatian and are overall less immersed in Croatian culture.  But, I think this has had its benefits too.  As you suggest, my experience with the Croatian diaspora in the United States is more conservative and indifferent to problems in Croatia, particularly as it relates to women.  There is a phrase I learned when I was in Croatia—tako je—which seems to be spoken when one has given up on trying to solve an issue or there is simply an acceptance for „what is“.  Had I grown up fully absorbed in the Croatian community in the U.S., I might be more accepting of „what is“ when it comes to fighting injustice.  Ironically, my being steeped in a deeply Catholic family as a child instilled this sense of fighting for marginalized groups.  I went to college at a Jesuit University and the Jesuits are well-known in the Catholic tradition as being socially progressive. I guess you can say that my feminist awakening happened within the context of a Catholic institution that taught me to challenge ideas and commit to social justice. 

I absolutely vote here in the U.S. but have no voting rights in Croatia as I'm not a citizen.  I was actually in the midst of getting my Croatian citizenship when I had to leave Zagreb last March.  I'm still really sad that I could not complete the final steps when I was there.  

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Noćni marš (Night March) 2020 © Lara Varat 

A similar-to-me too-movement came about in Croatia and the Balkan region known as „Nisam tražila“ (I didn't ask for it) in 2021. Since Serbian actress, Milena Radulović, publicly accused her acting professor Miroslav Mika Alekšić of raping and abusing, similar accusations spawned on the acting academia in Zagreb and other faculties on the University of Zagreb and many more confessions from everyday people (mostly female but also male) experiences with sexual harassment, collecting 40,000 confessions in the first week from all over Serbia, Croatia, and Bosnia, and Herzegovina) on the „Nisam tražila“ Facebook page.  Are you following this situation and what do you think about it?

Thanks to your question, I'm now definitely following it and trying to read as much as I can.  As I noted in the question you asked me earlier about things I was surprised or shocked by, it was about how the #MeToo movement had not really taken off in Croatia as it did in the United States. I'm glad to see that there is visibility and acknowledgment of the sexual violence, abuse, and harassment of women in the Balkans. Sexual violence perpetrated by men in power needs to be seen and stopped.   

What do these confessions both in the US and Croatia say about the acting community? What caused so much sexual blackmail in this particular field?

I don't think that the truths of sexual violence say anything about the acting community—what it does say is that those who have a public platform to acknowledge such abuse create visibility that those who are „ordinary citizens“ do not. People like Milena Radulović from Serbia and Alyssa Milano from the United States only magnify and make public the work of activists and community organizers.  I don't know enough about activists in Serbia, but in the United States, it was activist Tarana Burke who first used the term „me too“ in 2006 and started the movement.  #MeToo only went „viral“ in 2017 because of celebrity actions on social media.  I feel it's very important to highlight the often invisible work of such activists.  Blackmail only happens because the person in power knows they did something wrong and doesn't want the public to know about it because it might damage their reputation.  Only those with enough influence, power, and money are privileged to use blackmail and one of those sectors is the acting community.
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"Revolution is a woman", Noćni marš (Night March) 2020 © Lara Varat 

„Laws are necessary but not sufficient“

Višnja Ljubičić, the Ombudswoman for gender equality demands changes in the law. As current law in Croatia allows legal prosecution up to three months since the event of sexual harassment occurred, Ljubičić asks for the law to increase for up to ten years. The law also states that sexual harassment is investigated only if the victim reports it and not ex officio, like for other sex crimes, which Ljubičić says also needs to change. How would you compare the current law in Croatia and Ljubičić's proposal to the law in the US? Is it stricter than Croatian and what changes did it go through throughout history?

I'm not a legal scholar and honestly, I find it quite confusing due to legal jargon and federal vs. state law. Federal law states that a person can have 180 days to report sex discrimination (sexual harassment is one type) in companies with more than 15 employees. In small workplaces (under 15 people), workers have no formal legal protection.  Only seven states extend the time limit to more than 300 days.  Finally, five states do not even have an office that enforces anti-discrimination cases.  Others can report the sexual harassment for someone else, but there is no anonymity for the victim as the case must be investigated. Current time limits are similar between the countries.  I am not familiar with the details of either country's laws (to say which is stricter), but what I can tell you is that visibility matters.  As outlined in this article in Time magazine, the term „sexual harassment“ was not coined until 1975. But, the case that really made sexual harassment visible in the U.S. was Dr. Anita Hill's testimony against Supreme Court Nominee Clarence Thomas.  As stated in the article: „Though Thomas denied the allegations and was eventually confirmed to the Supreme Court, Hill’s decision had immediate consequences: in its wake, sexual-harassment complaints filed with the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission doubled, and payouts from court settlements increased as well.“ However, it's important to note that when there is progress, there is also backlash. 

Maja Mamula, a psychologist, and coordinator for „Ženska soba“ (Women's room), a non-profit organization for the prevention of sexual violence, suggests that due to the long period of the judicial process, institutions in which the accused is working should sanction and isolate themselves from the perpetrating suspect before the judges' ruling. She added that despite the „presumption of innocence until proved otherwise“ this is the minimum institutions should do even before the verdict. How would you comment on this proposition and how do people feel about this in the US as well? In your view, is there any possibility to ensure justice for the victim but also respecting the presumption of innocence? Should courts just be quicker or is there a more in-depth issue at stake?

 „Is there a more in-depth issue at stake?“ is what's important from my perspective.  It's highly problematic that we allow contact between individuals when a person's life is at stake due to violence. One should not have to request a restraining order (another legal step) to ask that an abuser not come near the victim. Legal protections only deal with laws and not the ethical or systemic inequities built into the system. For example, the legal system benefits those who have money, can access the internet, are English-speaking (in the U.S.), citizens, White, male, cisgender, etc.   

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"Trans women are women", Noćni marš (Night March) 2020 © Lara Varat

Mamula also warns that the Council of Europe suggests that for 200,000 residents there should be one center for the prevention of sexual violence, but the Croatian government ignored the proposition to establish three new centres. What is the situation with such centers in the US, are they sufficient enough and if so, do they help society in supporting the victims and encouraging more reports of sexual violence?  

The U.S. federal government has an Office on Violence Against Women that is part of the Department of Justice.  The office does not provide direct aid or support to citizens but rather administers a grant program „designed to develop the nation's capacity to reduce domestic violence, dating violence, sexual assault, and stalking by strengthening services to victims and holding offenders accountable“. It's important to note that this office was created in 1995 after the Violence Against Women Act (VAWA) was enacted.  Congress must reauthorize VAWA every five years and this has been done until 2019 when bipartisan support could not be obtained. Extending protections to vulnerable groups since 1994 has included indigenous populations, transgender individuals, and victims of human trafficking. VAWA does not currently protect girls at risk for female genital mutilation (FGM), immigrant populations, forced child marriage, or honor killings. To the best of my understanding, the lack of this Act not being reauthorized does not remove legal improvements made since 1994, but limits grant opportunities. Federal laws make a difference in reducing violence but there is no doubt the effects vary by state due to local regulations. In addition, there is little federal oversight in evaluating the effectiveness of grants provided to various organizations. 

Whether these laws are sufficient is a good question. I do not believe they are. Laws are necessary but not sufficient.  Laws do not necessarily address ethical issues or structural barriers that prevent equal access to protection. Justice cannot be accessed in marginalized groups that do not have financial or linguistic resources.  They may also fear the legal system or simply have no idea how to access help. Even in trying to respond to your question, I had to do a lot of reading, searching, and understanding my own country's complicated laws—imagine being poor, an immigrant, or a member of a gender-minority group and trying to cope with the trauma of violence.  Laws do nothing to mitigate unequal access. 

Even when a woman has access and her case goes to court, her word is subject to victim-blaming—essentially an argument that she is personally responsible for her own victimhood (e.g., rape). Victim blaming is an example of something called the „fundamental attribution error“ (or correspondence bias) which is our tendency to blame individuals rather than the circumstances or situation. There are countless examples of citizens protesting victim-blaming in rape trials globally but it is still a tactic used in court to discredit a victim's story. Victim-blaming shifts responsibility away from the perpetrator. Activists and scholars say we are asking the wrong questions when it comes to sexual assault.  The focus needs to shift from the victim to the abuser.  For example, in the case of domestic violence, instead of asking „why does she stay?“, we should be asking „why does he hit her?“ In conjunction with laws to protect victims and hold perpetrators accountable, we absolutely must be addressing such biases and tactics within the legal system.    

 Another suggestion regarding the prevention of sexual harassment that is seeing bigger and bigger support in Croatia is introducing sex-ed in Croatian schools. This is something that ranges widely in the US as well. According to the Planned Parenthood website, there is a huge public support for Sex-Ed but „currently, 24 states and the District of Columbia mandate sex education and 34 states mandate HIV education“.  What are and what do you think about CDC sexual components (are they sufficient or not) and do these 24 states and the district of Columbia record fewer numbers of sexual harassment and sex crimes than the US average due to sex-ed?

I'm glad to hear that sex education is gaining support in Croatia!  Sex education varies widely by state. There have been changes since 2014 and they are critical to understanding what can and cannot be taught. Sex education in the U.S. is up to individual states to administer. If states want to get federally funding for programs, they can only teach „abstinence-only-until-marriage“ (AOUM) or „Sexual risk avoidance“ (SRA) programs (the name has changed over time).  Essentially, these programs must adhere to eight strict guidelines requiring instructors to teach only about abstaining from sex unless one is married.  They also teach that having sex outside of marriage is psychologically and physically harmful—this is not true.  Abstinence-only programs don't work.  In a study published in 2019 in the American Journal of Public Health, the authors show that abstinence-only sex education does not have an effect on teenage pregnancy; in fact, in conservative states, such programs have the opposite effect showing an increase in teenage pregnancy.  In 2010, two small sources of federal funding were initiated that promoted sex education programs supported by evidence-based science (contraception, abstinence, sexually transmitted infections, and healthy relationships).  These programs do work by lessening teenage pregnancies. Federally funded sex education is contentious and vacillates between support for programs reflecting religious values of abstinence-only and science-based interventions reflecting public health, particularly adolescent sexual health.  Fortunately, there are other non-federally funded organizations like Planned Parenthood, the largest provider of sex education in the U.S.  Their programs include topics like „communication skills, decision making, birth control, STIs, healthy relationships, consent, body image, anatomy, and puberty“.  

In an editorial in the Journal of Youth Adolescence, the authors examine research from social and behavioral sciences in an effort to address more holistic sex education.  They suggest that comprehensive sex education must also address gender and other structural inequalities.  For example, the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) notes that risk factors for serious health outcomes are related to sexual behaviors and violence in LGBTQ+ adolescents more than their peers. As Croatian leaders and educators begin to think about sex education, I would urge them to base programs on „scientific input from a broad range of disciplines, including social, behavioral, medical, and public health sciences“ as these authors suggest. 

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"Get off my pussy" Noćni marš (Night March) 2020 © Lara Varat 

 „Here in the U.S. is not much different“ 

Last year there was a quite gruesome verdict that caused quite a big controversy in Croatian public space. In the town of Čakovec in 2000, three 16-year-old boys were drinking in the afternoon in the bar in the company of a 16-year-old girl. After drinking they went to the family house of one of the boys and they raped her. The girl reported the crime after a week to the doctors who alerted the parents and the trial to the three boys began. The trial lasted for about 20 years. The girl has difficulties walking due to having cerebral paralysis as a child and the prosecutors charged the three boys for „forced multiple sexual intercourse with a person who is incapable of defense“. The experts, however, determined that the victim resisted the crime both verbally and psychically making the attackers clear that she didn't want to have intercourse. She was crying and pushing attackers away“. Due to the fact that the girl resisted and the charge was that it was a forced multiple sexual intercourse with a person who is incapable of defense, the three attackers were ruled as not guilty and clear of all charges. Additionally, the Ombudswoman for gender equality  Višnja Ljubičić warned in Croatian media following the „Nisam tražila“ initiative, there are only a couple of guilty verdicts for perpetrators of sex crimes annually, and instead, these verdicts often go in favor of the perpetrators. What is the situation in the US?  Does it also take such a long time for the court to give a verdict for sex crimes trials are prosecutors also making such mistakes, and does the US have any sort of a legal mechanism that prioritizes sex crime trials?

The case you describe in Čakovec is appalling but I'm afraid that the situation here in the U.S. is not much different—there are equally horrifying stories here. As you might imagine, the question of time for sex trials and judgments in favor of perpetrators is quite complex. However, I will share some findings outlined in this 222-page report.  The authors note that attrition rates for sexual violence in the criminal justice system are substantial and „most victims never receive closure.“  It is already well-established that most cases are never reported.  Those that are reported rarely end in arrest and even fewer go to a trial 1.6%.   These data are corroborated by the Rape, Abuse & Incest National Network (RAINN). They report that perpetrators of sexual assault are the least likely to go to jail than all other types of crimes.

Sexual assault is based on control and power. Our governments, educational, legal, and other social systems need to acknowledge and address the sexist, racist, classist, ableist, homophobic, and other forms of discrimination inherent in them. Otherwise, laws will simply continue to exist on inequitable systems and perpetuate discrimination. 

But overall, are these problems bigger in Croatia than in the US or other western countries? The maximum sentence in Croatia is 10 years for rape and up to two years for sexual harassment while the highest legal prison sentence in Croatia can be 40 years. Is this sufficient? What would be, in your opinion, the most sufficient prison time for these crimes? 

Our focus on punishment keeps us locked in a system that perpetuates harm and does not allow for the possibility of structural change.  Do I think that perpetrators should be held accountable for their actions?  Yes, I do.  However, prison does not necessarily deter people from committing crimes and recidivism is a problem.  Instead, the focus should be on prison reform, restorative justice, and the prison industrial complex (PIC) that uses policing and imprisonment for social and economic problems. 
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"Machoism = nacism #maleforwomen" Noćni marš (Night March) 2020 © Lara Varat 

 Equality vs tradition & faith 

The majority of Croatians are proud of their traditional way of life and this tradition does play a huge role in the tourist promotion of Croatia that attracts visitors. But these traditions do come with a patriarchal structure and gender inequality as with other negativities that make the liberal stream roll-their eyes or down-right enrage them. Is it possible for Croatia to keep the traditions, its charm and yet create a society that does not discriminate on any level, including gender, religion, etc?

It's absolutely correct that certain traditions come with gender inequalities within a patriarchal system and Croatia is not alone in this.  It reminds me of an essay („Chiefing in Cherokee“ reprinted in The Best American Travel Writing, 2017) by Stephanie Elizondo Griest I read prior to coming to Croatia for my sabbatical.  She addresses this question of capitalizing on culture versus wondering if one's „touristic experience was authentic or not“. Tourists want „authenticity“ (tradition), but does it simply perpetuate discrimination based on harmful gender and other stereotypes? After all, tourism brings in money.  I would like to answer this question based on one of many experiences I had in Croatia which I wrote about in my blog.  I was grateful to be introduced to a tour guide who not only knows the history of Dubrovnik and Croatian tradition but can personalize her tours to include her knowledge of historically marginalized groups (the Jewish community, women, orphans, etc.) and how those forms of discrimination currently manifest themselves.  I am not alone in wanting to be exposed to Croatia's charm but also how its complex history mingles with current forms of discrimination.  I think that creating a society that does not discriminate is possible and acknowledging past injustices is part of that process.   

 You mention your Croatian roots and the catholic origin and how you even studied in a Jesuit school that is quite progressive. The biggest opposers to Sex-Ed in Croatia are conservative Catholic politicians and thinkers and some of them, without much success, are fighting for prohibiting the right to abortion in the country as well as limiting LGBTQ rights. Jesuits are not too popular in Croatia but what would you suggest, from a catholic position to the Croatian Catholics how to reconcile their faith with sexual education, LGBTQ rights, and women's reproductive rights?

When I was a child, I distinctly remember a lesson from catechism about baptism and limbo.  I learned that if a baby were to die before being baptized, they could not go to heaven (baptism being a prerequisite after all).  This bothered me...immensely.  I questioned the doctrine—„do you mean that if a person in another country who isn't Catholic and has never even heard of baptism can't go to heaven even if they have been a good person?“ The answer, a firm „no“, made no sense and I was admonished for asking more questions.  Of course, the Catholic church got rid of the notion of limbo some time ago, but the hypocrisies of my childhood religion were not lost on me.  Although I did not have the language at the time, I was asking questions about privilege and the very foundations of systemic injustice. These answers weighed heavily on me as a child as I gravitated to the lessons of love and forgiveness.  

I share this story because grappling with any belief structure, including one's religion, has been part of who I am.  Reconciling one's faith with injustice is a personal journey and for me, doing the moral and right thing did not coincide with some tenents of the Catholic faith.  I was not really allowed to question doctrine until I entered college and was exposed to Jesuit education that is rooted in service, justice, and love. I was taught to critically think about rather than accept doctrine.  I write a bit about this in my blog in trying to understand Catholicism with the general lack of volunteering in Croatia.

The truth is there are conservative and progressive ideas that inhabit all social institutions—family, government, and religion.  There is a Roman Catholic axiom, Imitatio Christi, which is loosely translated to a popular phrase that came into English usage in the 1990s, „What Would Jesus Do?“.  If your answer to this question urges you to act with humility and compassion then perhaps there is room in Catholicism for inclusion and education (including sex education) based on teaching healthy relationships and nonviolence. 

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prof. Mala Matacin in Dubrovnik / private archive

To conclude, as someone coming from the US in the middle of getting Croatian citizenship, do you feel you will be more discriminated against in Croatia for your gender than in the US? Given your participation in "Noćni marš" and your knowledge do you think that as a Croatian citizen you could help improve the gender equality in the country both with your knowledge but also with experiences and background from the US?

It is my sincere hope that I will be able to get my Croatian citizenship!  I met many people during my sabbatical who are doing important work to improve gender equality in Croatia and I would be honored if I could contribute to the ongoing efforts.  I did not feel discriminated against based on my gender in professional realms in Croatia.  In fact, a great majority of those doing gender-related work are women and I felt a kinship with them just as I do with those in the U.S.  However, I know that women are discriminated against despite that it is not as overt as it once was (e.g., a woman not being given a job because of her sex). Research on implicit bias supports this. 

Project Implicit is a non-profit organization founded by Harvard University in 1998. Implicit biases are deeply held attitudes and stereotypes about certain groups of people. „People can act on the basis of prejudice and stereotypes without intending to do so“.  Despite the gains women have made globally, social science research supports that implicit biases are related to discrimination in complex ways.  For example, a recent study showed that men are more likely to be seen as „brilliant“ than women across 79 countries globally. One of the authors states that "stereotypes that portray brilliance as a male trait are likely to hold women back across a wide range of prestigious careers". 

It's not discrimination, but I noticed that my gender mattered differently in Croatia in terms of marital status and traveling alone.  Initially, I was taken aback by questions about my marital status (for example, „where is your husband?“) or why I was in the country by myself. Such questions are not normally asked of me in the U.S., particularly among people who I meet in casual, public spaces. Yet, in Croatia they seemed natural and okay to ask—it felt unsettling to me.  

For more about politics in Croatia, follow TCN's dedicated page

Friday, 5 March 2021

Aer Lingus Flights to Split, Dubrovnik, and Pula Returning this Summer!

March 5, 2021 - Aer Lingus flights to Split, Dubrovnik, and Pula have been announced in the Irish carrier's 2021 summer flight schedule! 

Croatian Aviation reports that the well-known Irish carrier Aer Lingus plans to return to three Croatian airports in the upcoming summer flight schedule, which will take effect at the end of March.

In the 2020 summer season, AerLingus did not operate to Dubrovnik and Pula, while the airline had relatively short and reduced traffic to Split Airport. In the upcoming summer flight schedule, Aer Lingus plans to renew all routes to Croatia, but this will primarily depend on restrictive measures between Ireland and Croatia, which in turn directly affects bookings.

From May 1, Aer Lingus plans to operate again on the Dublin - Pula - Dublin route. The line is scheduled to operate twice a week, on Tuesdays and Saturdays, until September 28. A320 aircraft have been announced on the route.

On 45 announced return flights to Pula, Aer Lingus currently offers as many as 15,660 seats.

The Dublin - Dubrovnik - Dublin line has been announced from March 30, but it is expected that Aer Lingus won't begin operating on this line until May. From May to the end of September, five flights a week have been announced, every day except Tuesday and Thursday, also with A320 aircraft. In October, the airline will reduce the number of rotations to three flights a week.

The Dublin - Split - Dublin line should also operate from May 1 to October 1, with two flights a week, every Tuesday and Thursday. This is also the only line on which Aer Lingus operated last year after the lockdown was lifted in European countries.

From the beginning of May, the airline also offers the Cork - Dubrovnik - Cork line, but there is a great possibility that flights will be withdrawn from sale and that this line will not be in operation in the 2021 summer season. Two weekly flights are available from May 5 to the end of September, on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

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Friday, 5 March 2021

Dubrovnik Launches World's First Digital Nomad-in-Residence Competition

March 5, 2021 - Just a few months after hosting Croatia's first-ever digital nomad conference, Dubrovnik launches the world's first digital nomad-in-residence competition. Come help shape the remote work strategy of Kings Landing!

Few places in Croatia have been as badly affected by the pandemic economically as Dubrovnik, Croatia's best-known and most iconic city, also known as the Pearl of the Adriatic. Heavily dependent on flights and cruise ships for the bulk of its tourism, COVID-19 wiped out those markets, leaving a city almost devoid of tourism and looking at ways to adjust to the new normal. 

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I first met Mayor Mato Frankovic in July last year, when I pitched the idea of reorientating part of the city's tourism around lifestyle, catering to the growing number of remote workers around the world, who were looking to experience lifestyle when they leave their remote offices each day. After a hard day's work, how better to relax than with a coffee on Stradun or a stroll around those magnificent old city walls?

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The digital nomad story in Croatia was just starting to get some traction. Dutch entrepreneur Jan de Jong had just sent his open letter to Prime Minister Andrej Plenkovic, asking him to introduce a digital nomad visa for Croatia. Some 44 days after that, Plenkovic tweeted a photo with Split's favourite Dutchman announcing his intention to do just that. The tax code and Foreigner's Act were amended, and from January 1, 2021, the legal framework was in place to welcome digital nomads for 12-month stays. Soon after, an American in Istria became the first bearer of the new visa. Meet Melissa Paul, Owner of Croatia's First Digital Nomad Visa.

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(Jan de Jong, the driving force behind Croatia's digital nomad visa, Mayor Mato Frankovic, and TCN's Paul Bradbury at the Dubrovnik for Digital Nomads conference in October 2020)

Dubrovnik's engagement with the concept of developing a strategy for digital nomads led to the first dedicated conference in Croatia back in October. Organised by local remote work specialists, Saltwater Nomads, the Dubrovnik for Digital Nomads conference reached a global audience, including a citation in The Washington Post. Coupled with Croatia's more accommodating approach to tourists durig the pandemic, the message was clear - Croatia's lifestyle and natural beauty were very appealing. The perfect base for remote workers looking for a little extra.

Dubrovnik's beauty and lifestyle got an extra boost in August, as ABC News spent a week covering the topic of Americans travelling during corona times, and the feature above on Good Morning America was watched by 12.5 million people. 

Keen to build on the strong foundations of the October conference, the City of Dubrovnik and Dubrovnik Tourist Board have been working closely with Saltwater Nomads to develop a strategy to enable the city to better serve its remote working visitors, as well as better positioning Dubrovnik in the market. 

As part of that strategy, Saltwater owner, Tanja Polegubic, a Croatian returnee from Australia who has been serving digital nomads since setting up Saltwater in 2017, has come up with what we believe is the world's first digital nomad-in-residence contest, bringing digital nomads from all over the world for four weeks in Dubrovnik to work with the city to help it deliver a better understanding of the needs of its remote working guests, as well as using their know-how to help Dubrovnik build a better brand and presence in this rapidly expanding sector. 

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(Competition organiser and remote working pioneer in Croatia Tanja Polegubic also organised Croatia's first digital nomad conference in Dubrovnik in October. Jan de Jong was a keynote speaker. Both are founding members of the Digital Nomad Association for Croatia). 

The conference was one of my personal and Professional highlights of 2020," Tanja told TCN. "It’s been really wonderful to see new businesses spring up - and mention the conference and the news of The permit. The DN-I-R residency program will be reaching out to these “early adopters” to be involved. Our approach is co-creation. We will pair the digital nomads to Match global Trends with the local community - I’m really excited about what we’re going to roll out!

The digital nomad-in-residence (DN-I-R) contest will give 10 lucky winners a complimentary 4-week stay as guests of the city, with various meals, tours, workshops and other activities also included. From the Saltwater contest information:

Using a co-creation model, the Saltwater program team will bring together residents and the 10 digital nomads selected as DN-I-Rs. Over a four-week period, the digital nomads will attend design thinking workshops to create a strategic direction for the city, especially as it adjusts to a more sustainable direction and manages the impact of COVID19. 

The competition even allows companies to nominate a star employee - as long as they also agree to terms and conditions if selected. As many digital nomads are couples travelling in Croatia, if a winner has a partner - they can apply and if one is selected can share the free accommodation.

The project, which commences on April 23, will enable the 10 lucky winners to collaborate, upskill, and contribute to the development of Dubrovnik's digital nomad strategy, with the aim of enhancing Dubrovnik's standing in the digital nomad community. Dubrovnik has a reputation of being expensive, which it certainly can be, with a perception among some that there is little to do outside the city walls, which is certainly not true. The exchange of minds and experiences will help to dispel some of these myths. 

DN-I-Rs will receive professional development training, participate in workshops and present their findings on shaping Dubrovnik as a Digital Nomad Friendly city. This will be presented at a finale event at the end of the programme. The Digital Nomad Association (DNA) Croatia will also be involved - with an event incorporated into the end of the programme.

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Mayor of Dubrovnik Mato Frankovic is looking forward to working with the city new international digital ambassadors: 

Dubrovnik really has everything one could wish for a comfortable life, but also excellent working conditions, and the City of Dubrovnik is constantly working to improve the quality of life and stay in this city. Digital nomads are very welcome. I believe that the conference we held in Dubrovnik last October clearly conveyed that message. With these further activities we want to emphasize this even more, and we see that in the international community Dubrovnik is already recognized as a desirable destination for digital nomads. The digital nomad story has the support of the Government of the Republic of Croatia, which is reflected in the fact that visas for nomads were introduced, as announced.

I wish all competitors the best of luck, and the winners of this competition will certainly gain wonderful experiences in Dubrovnik and, I am sure, be the ambassadors of Dubrovnik in the world.

An innovative approach to a new tourism strategy, so why not get involved? If you are a digital nomad and would like to be a guest of Dubrovnik and assist in shaping its digital nomad service for future guests, now is your once-in-a-lifetime chance! 

Applications are open from midday today until March 31. More details on the programme and the application requirements and procedure can be found on the Saltwater website

Learn more about the magic of Dubrovnik in our fully updated Total Croatia 2021 Dubrovnik in a Page guide.

For the latest news about digital nomads in Croatia, follow the dedicated TCN section.

Thursday, 4 March 2021

People also ask Google: Is Dubrovnik or Split Better?

March 4, 2021 - In our latest People also ask Google series, we attempt to tackle the impossible - is Dubrovnik or Split better?

Ah, the tale of two ancient cities, both breathtaking in their own ways. One, the Adriatic Pearl, the other, Dalmatia's bustling capital - but both full of pride that there is no better place. 

Their vibrant history more or less defines them. Dubrovnik's roots trace back to the 7th century when it was founded as Ragusa by inhabitants of the ancient Greek colony of Epidaurus (present-day Cavtat). Split, on the other hand, founded as the Greek colony Aspálathos only a bit earlier, in the 3rd or 2nd century BC. 

Centuries later, both cities are certainly known for their turbulent history and historic cores - Dubrovnik, a town wrapped by medieval defensive walls, and Split, a city that boasts the 1700-year-old Diocletian's Palace, the former retirement home of Roman Emporer Diocletian.

While it may be humanely IMpossible to decide which is better, we do know one thing: these ancient artifacts have turned two coastal cities into tourism champions in much more recent years, where history mixes with the mood of the Meditteranean to make for one stellar holiday. 

Is it better to stay in Dubrovnik or Split?

We recently covered how many days you should spend in Dubrovnik, much like the magic number for Split, but where should you stay in both cities? 

Dubrovnik abounds in 5-star hotels and villas, attracting luxury travelers thanks to its deluxe amenities. From the Excelsior, Rixos, and Sun Gardens to the centrally-located Hilton Imperial and lavish Grand Villa Argentina, tourists with higher spending power really have their pick when it comes to the upper echelon of hotels in the area. And that's without mentioning ultra-luxurious villas, like Sheherezade.

 

Private accommodation in Dubrovnik, however, can get a bit tricky. While basic old-town offers in the summer can cost you an arm and a leg, literally and figurately (remember, endless flights of stairs and NO elevators), apartments outside of the center, while more affordable, are less accessible. Yes, taxis and Uber do exist, but so do narrow roads and summer traffic, both of which plague Dubrovnik in the peak season. 

Split, on the other hand, is still a bit behind in the luxury hotel world. And to compensate for its lack of hotel rooms, the city has seen a boom in private accommodations over the last few years, with things getting a little out of hand.

But there is hope.

The newly-opened 4-star Amphora Hotel has done a significant job adding to the hotel capacity in Split with 206 rooms, while newcomers like briig boutique hotel add flair to the Bačvice neighborhood. The Birkenstock-owned Ambasador will add 101 rooms to the West Coast sometime this year, while the Adris Group will step into the Dalmatian market with the hopeful opening of the 'new' hotel Marjan in 2022.

Lovers of luxury hotels can currently only choose from the 5-star Le Meridien Lav hotel, located about 15 minutes outside of Split in Podstrana, or the beloved Bačvice-based Hotel Park. However, the history-rich-heritage hotels in the center make up for any missing affluence (check out Palace Judita, Heritage Hotel Antique, or Jupiter, for example). 

Does Split or Dubrovnik have better beaches?

Bačivce or Banje? It's unlikely you'll spend an hour in either city without hearing their names. 

Bačivce, Split's public beach, is located about a 10-minute walk outside of Diocletian's Palace. A sandy beach popular for speedo-clad picigin players, Bačivce boasts views that extend out to Brač during the day, while it is the hub of Split nightlife in the evening, where young partygoers let loose until sunrise. Needless to say, things can get a bit messy (and crowded). 

On the other hand, Dubrovnik's public Banje beach is a short walk from the old town, with views onto the city walls and harbor. While you'll be hard-pressed to find a more unique swimming spot, it is penetrated by thirsty tourists in the summertime, making it often impossible to claim a lounge chair. 

 

Fortunately, Bačice and Banje aren't the only beaches in Split in Dubrovnik. Split's coast is decorated with beaches, as is Marjan Hill, where you'll find Kaštelet, situated just below the Ivan Meštrović Gallery, or Kašjuni, boasting a deep bay with the cliffs wrapping around you. 

Šulići is just a short walk from the Pile Gate in Dubrovnik, while the family-friendly Copacabana beach in Babin Kuk offers a restaurant, water sports, and cocktails for the adults. And if you have a car? Head 30 minutes south of Dubrovnik to discover the best beaches in Konavle!

Is Dubrovnik or Split nightlife better?

As someone who just crossed over into her 30s after a vibrant decade of partying in her 20s, the answer to this one comes quite easily. One thing young travelers visiting Dubrovnik often mention is the lack of nightlife in the city. And as it should be, because Dubrovnik's beauty shouldn't be embraced with a hangover. However, you can't deny that people want to let loose on holiday, whether they're at a pub or a club. So, where to? 

 

For those who enjoy partying until the early morning hours, there is one special place to go - Culture Club Revelin. It even made DJ Mag's Top 50 Best Clubs in the World. Located in a 500-year-old medieval fortress, it'll be hard to find another setting as unique. Just like it'll be hard to find another club Dubrovnik. 

And if you're not the clubbing type after all? Dubrovnik flourishes with cafe and wine bars, and there are even a few Irish pubs!

Split, on the other hand, has become a hotspot for Croatian nightlife. After the wine-bar-boom came the craft-cocktail-bar boom, and there is a nightclub for all types of partygoers. Bar crawls also rule summer nightlife, and all roads eventually lead to the Bačvice beach clubs, where you can enjoy a sunrise swim if you stay long enough.

 

Split's live music scene also thrives most of the year; you can catch up-and-coming Croatian acts or touring international DJs if you're lucky!

Are Split or Dubrovnik restaurants better?

Both Split and Dubrovnik have upped their culinary game in the last few years. Dubrovnik currently boasts 10 Michelin-recommended restaurants, while one restaurant, 360, carries a Michelin star. And because it is a luxury destination, you'll notice more fine dining options in Dubrovnik than Split. 

Split cannot currently boast a Michelin star, though it does have five Michelin-recommended restaurants and many trendy newcomers that add flair to classic Dalmatian cuisine. 

 

Long gone are the days of only ćevapi and pomfret (though you'll still find it on most konoba menus), as both cities have become creative in their culinary offers, with many international options on the table too. If you're after the flavors of sushi, Mexican, Thai, or Chinese, or want to keep it traditional with grilled fish, black risotto, and octopus salad, you'll be pleased eating in either city. 

Would you choose Dubrovnik or Split in October?

Ah, the offseason debate is back again!

If you'd like my personal opinion, both cities are a gem in October, that is, if you're not coming to Croatia solely for the sun, sea, and swimming. October weather could also surprise, and you may find that Indian Summer comes out to play.

Best-case scenario - you're swimming in slightly cooler sea temperatures with fewer boats and emptier beaches. Worst-case scenario, you're stuck in the rain and have to schedule your outdoor activities around when it's dry - so you get to sit in a cafe and people watch or enjoy museums to kill time instead. Is that really so bad?

 

Realistically, most everything remains open in both cities throughout October, making it easier for you to enjoy what you'd plan on doing in summer without fighting sweaty bodies wanting to do the same thing. 

October is also a good time to enjoy emptier roads, so why not take a road trip from Dubrovnik to Pelješac for wine tasting? Or from Split to Omiš for ziplining over the canyon? The opportunities are endless. 

In conclusion: Is Dubrovnik or Split better?

The real question is - which city is better for you?

One might suggest that if you're young, looking for vibrant nightlife, good food options, and easy access to the islands, you'll fit better in Split. And if you're a Game of Thrones fan looking to tick tourist attractions off your list? You'll likely choose Dubrovnik. But both cities offer something for all ages and all members of the family, and because they're only 3 hours apart by car, you don't really have to choose at all. 

Illustration by Little Shiva

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Monday, 1 March 2021

Over €60 Million to Improve Dubrovnik's Water Supply and Treatment System

ZAGREB, 1 March, 2021 - The European Commission on Monday approved an investment of more than €60 million from the Cohesion Fund to upgrade the water supply and wastewater collection and treatment infrastructures in and around Dubrovnik.

"This project will not only provide inhabitants with the essential access to clean water and reduced water losses but it will also boost the commercial and touristic attractiveness of the area, thus improving the local socio-economic development," said Commissioner for Cohesion and Reforms Elisa Ferreira.

The Dubrovnik Agglomeration project covers the reconstruction of the existing water supply and wastewater collection systems and the construction of new sections, which will result in 98% water supply coverage and 92% wastewater collection coverage.

The project envisages the upgrading of more than 40 kilometres of water supply infrastructure and 31 kilometres of public wastewater collection infrastructure, the construction of new pump stations, water reservoirs and other necessary facilities as well as of a new wastewater treatment plant.

A drinking water treatment plant has already been built and the cost of its construction will be refinanced via the agglomeration project.

Friday, 26 February 2021

People also ask Google: How Many Days Should I Spend in Dubrovnik?

February 26, 2021 - Continuing the TCN series answering the questions posed by Google's People Also Ask function - how many days should I spend in Dubrovnik?

Dubrovnik, the walled city Lord Byron once called the 'Pearl of the Adriatic,' has dazzled tourists for decades.

Historians claim that tourism first really set off in this picturesque walled city in 1945. Its inclusion in UNESCO's World Heritage List over 30 years later only heightened its fame.

The breakup of Yugoslavia in the early 1990s pushed Dubrovnik into the spotlight once again, however not for its grandeur and charm, but as the target of the Yugoslav People's Army during the Seige of Dubrovnik. Intensive shelling blasted the medieval city walls, and over two-thirds of buildings in the historic core were damaged. The tourist jewel in pieces. 

But even after its darkest days, Dubrovnik shone again thanks to an extensive reconstruction between 1995 and 1999. The Adriatic Pearl was polished to its pre-war perfection, and it has been Croatia's champion of tourism ever since. 

I first visited Dubrovnik on my first trip to Croatia in 1996, not yet six years old and just after the war. I have photos of me striking poses on Stradun, slurping ice cream melted from the hot summer sun, and chasing pigeons around St. Blaise Square. The city's monumental effect on me as a child never dwindled, and its magic only grew as I got older. 

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As a teenager, I would dream of visiting the baroque city during month-long stays in my mother's village of Kosa, just outside Metkovic and only 45 minutes from Dubrovnik. On Dubrovnik day trips, I begged my mother to dress up with me for fancy fish lunches and sunset gelato. It was my favorite Croatian city, without a doubt. 

We have brought dozens of friends from the US to Dubrovnik, staying for days in old-town apartments we wished we maybe hadn't booked after schlepping oversized luggage up 100 steep steps. But once the golden hour lit up Stradun, nothing else mattered - and the magic of Dubrovnik was infectious.

But that was over a decade ago. 

If Dubrovnik wasn't already popular then, today is it one of Europe's top travel destinations and a summer haven for cruise ship tourists who pile into the town for a day. A victim of 'overtourism' next to Venice before the COVID-19 pandemic hit, the city's charm has often been met with critique and tourists wishing they hadn't visited in the summer after all. 

But there are ways to beat the bustle and ensure you get the most out of what Dubrovnik has to offer, so you too can experience its perpetual allure. Just read carefully. 

How Many Days Should I Spend in Dubrovnik?

While I thought it was tough to decide how many days you should spend in Split, quantifying it for Dubrovnik is infinitely harder. If you asked me in 2006, I would say a week, in 2010, maybe 3 days, and in the last couple of years, I would say no more than a day.

Though I would hardly agree with that now.

Factoring the potential of summer crowds (though we can't predict they'll return so fast after COVID-19), the key to Dubrovnik is taking your time. 

How long should I spend in Dubrovnik to see the Old Town?

Truth be told, Dubrovnik's center looks much mightier than it really is. This rather compact old-town town could be explored on a speedwalking tour in just a few hours, but that's not as much fun. 

To really explore the cracks and crevices of Dubrovnik's old town, I'd recommend one day - minimum. This gives you time to wander and stop to examine numerous historical attractions like Onofrio Fountain, built in 1438, the Franciscan Monastery (which is also home to Europe's oldest pharmacy), and the baroque Church of St. Blaise (circa the early 1700s). 

 

Don't forget the Rector's Palace, which held the Rector's seat of the Republic of Ragusa, nor can you miss the Romanesque-style Cathedral of the Assumption, designed by Roman architect Andrea Buffalini, which dates back to the 12th century. The 16th-century Sponza Palace is best seen at dusk, while the 31-meter-tall Bell Tower can be used as your marker as you wander around town. 

You'll certainly need time to peruse the shops hidden in high alleyways and people watch with a probably over-priced beverage on Stradun, which won't matter much to you then as you embrace the history around you.  

How much time do I need to see the city walls?

Dubrovnik's main attraction, its walls, has guarded the town for centuries. Built between the 12th and 17th centuries, these defensive stone walls are almost two kilometers long and wrap around the Old Town with scenic views overlooking Dubrovnik's red rooftops and sparkling Adriatic Sea. 

You haven't really been to Dubrovnik unless you've examined the city from this height, and history will continue to reveal itself at every tower, fort, and turn.

 

By entering from the busy Pile Gate, you'll find that walking the walls will take around two hours, that is, if you really take your time to enjoy it. Should you choose to visit in summer, it's best to book in advance and book to tour the walls in the morning - you'll thank me later. 

Because you'll likely need to rest after this wall-workout, don't rush to see the next thing - take the day in Dubrovnik to relax at a cafe or beach! 

How many days should I spend in Dubrovnik to visit Mount Srd?

One of Dubrovnik's top recommendations is Mount Srd, which you can reach in style with the cable car (5-10 minutes to the top), by hiking (about an hour), or driving (13 minutes from Pile Gate). Offering incredible panoramic views of Dubrovnik and the Adriatic, no matter which way you choose to make it to the top, you'll be rewarded with a panoramic restaurant, buggy tours, and the Croatian Homeland War Museum, which exhibits the Croatian War for Independence in haunting photographs from 1991-1995. 

 

Depending on what you choose to do, you could make Mount Srd a full-day activity! 

Can I see everything on Lokrum in one day?

Just 15 minutes by boat from the Dubrovnik Port is Lokrum, a small green island oasis that dates back to pre-historic times (1023). The perfect day-trip idea, Lokrum, is a natural habitat that boasts a botanical garden, medieval Benedictine monastery, nudist and rocky beaches, and even a Dead Sea-like saltwater lake. 

You can easily spend the day on Lokrum to beat the summer heat and crowds. This forested wonder even has a restaurant! 

 

Can I see the Elaphiti Islands in one day?

I didn't visit the Elaphiti Islands until maybe my 6th or 7th time in Dubrovnik, and I'm so sorry I didn't go sooner. The Elaphiti Islands, which get their name from the Greek word elafos, are a small archipelago of several islands slightly northwest of Dubrovnik. The three most famous are Kolocep, Lopud, and Sipan, populated by less than 1,000 people in total, though 13 islands make up the archipelago.

Tranquil, forested, and mostly car-free, the Elaphiti Islands offer a picturesque escape from the busy city. While you can visit Kolocep, Lopud, and Sipan by ferry, the timetables could get a bit tight, so booking a private speedboat tour for the day ensures you get the most out of your adventure - and lunch at an island konoba to boot!

 

How many days should I spend in Dubrovnik if I'm a Game of Thrones fan?

Calling all Game of Thrones fans! If you didn't know by now, Dubrovnik was transformed into King's Landing for the hit TV series, and you'll notice many famous scenes just by walking around the Old Town. For example, Cersei Lannister's steps of 'Shame!' (or Dubrovnik's Jesuit Stairs), St. Dominic Street (most marketplace scenes in King's Landing), while the Rector's Palace, Rupe Ethnographic Museum, Fort Bokar, Fort Lovrijenac, Ploce Gate and more all have their chance in the spotlight. 

There are several Game of Thrones tours you can choose from, most lasting around two hours, which will not only take you to filming locations but give you the history spiel of the city, too.

 

You can also head 30 minutes outside of Dubrovnik to the Trsteno Arboretum, whose gardens are featured in seasons 3 and 4! 

How many days should I spend in Dubrovnik, depending on the season?

Summer is without a doubt the busiest time in Dubrovnik thanks to the scorching hot sun, but that doesn't necessarily mean it is the best time to visit. Trying to do everything you want in a day or two during the summer could be an impossible task, given that long lines and crowds make many tourist activities tough to tick off. If you have time to spend in Dubrovnik in the summer, do it, and book yourself accommodation outside the bustling Old Town so you can maintain a somewhat slower summer pace. 

Spring may be the best time of the year to visit Dubrovnik for various reasons - 1) usually good weather, 2) tolerable crowds, less traffic, and emptier walls, and 3) more affordable prices. Most tourist attractions are open as well, and booking in advance is probably not necessary. Summer flight schedules to Dubrovnik usually kick off in the spring, making it easier to get in and out. 

 

Winter in Dubrovnik exposes the city's local life, which is often hard to experience any other time of the year. Dubrovnik is still enhanced by events in the wintertime, like Advent Christmas markets, its Winter Festival, and, of course, the celebration of its patron saint, St. Blaise. The weather may be cooler, but the vacant streets give the town a new kind of enchantment that only winter can bring. 

Conclusion: How many days should I Spend in Dubrovnik?

Another impossible question to answer, I believe it all comes down to why you're visiting in the first place. If you want to be fully immersed in the history, culture, and beauty of Dubrovnik, do yourself a favor and don't cut your trip to one day. However, if you're only looking to walk walls to say you did it and prefer a quick gander around town, one day is plenty. 

 

Keep in mind that the time of year you choose to visit will have a huge part in how your trip plays out. Even so, we're pretty sure you'll feel the magic no matter when. 

To follow the People Also Ask Google about Croatia series, click here.

Friday, 26 February 2021

Smartwings Flights from Prague to Split, Dubrovnik Coming this Summer!

February 26, 2021 - Smartwings flights from Prague to Split and Dubrovnik will operate this summer! 

Croatian Aviation reports that the Czech low-cost airline Smartwings has announced two routes to Croatia in the upcoming summer flight schedule.

Namely, Smartwings plans to connect Prague with Split and Dubrovnik this summer. In 2020, the company operated between Prague and Split, while the line to Dubrovnik was suspended for obvious reasons.

In the 2021 summer flight schedule, the company plans to resume traffic to both mentioned destinations later than in 2019. 

The Prague-Split-Prague line will operate from May 1, once a week, every Saturday. From June 1 to October 10, daily flights on this line have been announced.

Smartwings will operate B737-800, B737-900ER aircraft to Split, and B737-MAX-8 aircraft have also been announced, or aircraft that received a permit for re-operation less than a month ago. Just yesterday, February 25, the company made its first commercial flight with this type of aircraft after the “MAX” aircraft's airworthiness approval was issued.

The Prague-Dubrovnik-Prague line will operate from the beginning of June to the beginning of October (June 1 to October 3). Smartwings currently plans to operate daily on this route, mainly with B737-800 aircraft.

In 2019, Croatia Airlines regularly operated for the last time in the summer flight schedule between Zagreb and Prague. This line did not work in 2020 and is currently not on sale for this summer season either.

It will still be possible to fly directly from Prague to Zadar. Ryanair introduced the Zadar-Prague line last summer, and this season it plans to operate twice a week, every Tuesday and Saturday, from May 1 to October 30. This well-known low-cost carrier alone will offer over 20,000 seats on the direct line between Zadar and Prague. At the same time, Smartwings will have a significantly higher capacity at its disposal to Split and Dubrovnik.

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