One of the great late-season events on the Hvar calendar returns on September 11, 2019, as Dani u Vali (Days in the Bay) returns to Stari Grad for another maritime extravaganza.

One of the nice things about following a destination closely over a number of years is seeing how new events become established. When I first moved to Hvar back in 2002, for example, there was no lavender festival in Velo Grablje, and yes Croatia's most aromatic festival celebrated its 11 edition this June. There was also no Hvar Half Marathon until a decade ago. 

And so too with a delightful new festival in Stari Grad, which is now in its third year. Nicely positioned in mid-September, the third edition of Dani u Vali (Days in the Bay) has become a firm favourite during its short existence, as well as a wonderful showpiece for Dalmatian maritime and other traditions.  

This year's event will run from September 11-15 with a series of 56 exhibitions, events, concerts and MANY boats, all centred around the pretty harbour of Stari Grad, which the Ancient Greeks sailed into over 2,400 years ago. 

In addition to the traditional sailboats from the likes of Udruga Lantina, there will be plenty of other colourful characters on the water in a variety of maritime vessels. 

Hvar is, of course, home to the UNESCO-protected Mediterranean Diet, and there will be many gourmet events and tasting opportunities in the squares and restaurants around, as well as the chance to pick up some lovely local domestic products, such as Stari Grad's signature honey-based biscuit, paprenjak, pictured above. 

The sight of so many sailboats in this most pretty of harbours, especially when lit up at night, is a sight to see on its own.  

Plenty of live music.

Plenty of time to chill and enjoy the relaxed Dalmatian lifestyle on the water. 

But be prepared for the pirates on Friday night! 

You can see more information about many of the events in English on the Facebook event page. Please find below the full programme in Croatian. It promises to be a great event. 

The 44th Faros Marathon, a 16km open sea swimming race will take place once again in Stari Grad on Hvar on September 7, 2019. 

Of all the sporting events I have seen in Croatia, I can't recall one being more demanding or attracting a higher calibre of participant (from Olympic medal winners to world champions) than the Faros Marathon in Stari Grad. 

An annual event since its inauguration in 1976, the Faros Marathon has been a popular fixture on the Stari Grad tourism calendar ever since. Although beset by problems in recent times and under threat of not taking place this year, 

Thankfully, it has been announced this week that the Faros Marathon will take place this year, a little later than planned. In recent years, the race has taken place in the last weekend of August, but this year's event will now take place on Saturday, September 7 - the same month the marathon took place from its inception until 1997. 

The race is gruelling. A 16-kilometre open sea swim from the Stari Grad harbour out to the tip of the Kabal Peninsula and back again, with the fastest recorded time so far being over three hours. There is both a men's and women's race, which will start simultaneously at 08:00 from the new riva.

The track records have been intact for years, held by German Alexander Studzinski 3:01:55 (2009) and American Christine Jennings 3:04:09 (2013), and at the national level by Duje Milan 3:06:24 (2013). ) and Karla Sitić 3:13:35 (2010).

Take a look at the Faros Marathon in years gone by, with this Hvar TV report on the 2015 race above and 1985 below.  

to learn more about Stari Grad, here are 25 things to know. 

August 31, 2019 - Bike racing through the Stari Grad Plain - ancient UNESCO heritage meets modern cycling as Biciklom kroz Bastinu returns for its 8th edition. 

One of the big growth areas on Hvar in recent years has been in cycling tourism. The sport has been given greater visibility with the marking of bike trails and a cycling map, as well as tourist agencies becoming more sophisticated in their island-hopping itineraries. 

High profile arrivals such as the Bahrain Merida cycling team for their winter training two years in a row have certainly raised awareness of the island as a cycling destination, but there are plenty of other events throughout the year where cycling is celebrated. 

Among them is Biciklom kroz Bastinu (Cycling Through Heritage) which returns for its 8th edition this weekend, bike racing through the Stari Grad Plain, a fertile UNESCO World Heritage Site cultivated by the Ancient Greeks when they sailed in from the island of Paros back in 384 BC. 

This year's event includes a cycling event for the kids, family cycling and trail biking. Full details (in Croatian) below. 

Već 8. godinu za redom S.K. HVAR LIFE organizira već poznati rekreativno-sportski događaj "Biciklom kroz baštinu" koja će svoj start tradicionalno imati na trgu Tvrdalj Stari Grad.Već 8. godinu za redom S.K. HVAR LIFE organizira već poznati rekreativno-sportski događaj "Biciklom kroz baštinu" koja će svoj start tradicionalno imati na trgu Tvrdalj Stari Grad.

Ove godine smo za Vas pripremili dječju biciklijadu, tradicionalnu obiteljsku vožnjicu, Trail utrku te biciklističku utrku u dvije kategorije po potpuno novim, atraktivnim stazama.
Svi detalji u nastavku!

BICIKLOM KROZ BAŠTINU 2019.
Program

*** Subota 31.8.2019. ***
10:00h  Obiteljska biciklijada15:30h  Trail utrka u 2 staze.Macići 10+ km (više od polovine staze u  hladu) i Teuta 20+ km ( 3/4 staze u hladu)
Nakon utrke organizirani odlazak u Jelsu na feštu vina

*** Nedjelja 1.9.2019. ***
10:00h  Dječja biciklijada na Trgu Tvrdalj Nakon biciklijade - Dječja tombola
15:30 Rekreativna utrka /  2 staze 25 i 45 km19:00h Zajednička večera za sve sudionike20:00h Proglašenje pobjednika, koncert i lutrija 

INFORMACIJE
Organizator utrke: Sport klub Hvar LifeSuorganizatori utrke: DVD Stari Grad, Turistička zajednica Stari Grad, Grad Stari Grad, Lag Škoji
Kontakt: Bariša Plenković 095 837 7369Marinko Lupi 091 502 3013
Vrsta utrke : rekreativni MTB maratonDužina staze: Sport 34 km; 750m uspona / Rekreacija 25kmPodloga: 85% macadam 15% asphalt
Start utrke: 1.9.2019. / 15:30 satiMjesto okupljanja i prijava : Trg Tvrdalj Stari Grad - prijave od 14:00Proglašenje pobjednika: Nedjelja 01.09.2018. 20:00 Trg TvrdaljKategorije: Muškarci i žene u obje kategorijeDobna granica: Minimalno 14 godina, mlađi od 14 g. mogu nastupiti isključivo uz pratnju roditelja/staratelja.

PRIJAVE
Startnina: 70 kn za prijave do 15.8.2019. / 100 kn za prijave od 15.8.Za sve prijavljene: Bogati startni paketPrijave:Za nastup na utrci potrebna je registracija na https://www.stoperica.liveAplikacija je dostupna na https://www.stoperica.live/races/120Po izvršenoj registraciji potrebno je izvršiti prijavu na utrku.
Pravo nastupa:Svi licencirani i ne licencirani natjecatelji sa ispravnim MTB biciklom.Staza nije primjerena za mlađe uzraste.Preporučena dobna granica za maloljetnike je 14 godina, uz obaveznu pisanu izjavu roditelja/staratelja. Svi natjecatelji mlađi od 18 godina dužni su donijeti pisanu izjavu roditelja/skrbnika o suglasnosti za nastup na utrci.

Nagrade:
Novčane nagrade za prva tri mjesta u kategoriji Sport za muškarce i žene.
I.  mjesto 800 knII. mjesto 600 knIII. mjesto 400 kn
Za prva tri mjesta u obje kategorije medalje i nagrade sponzora.
Opći uvjeti:Za utrku vrijede MTB Pravilnik HBS i UCI MTB pravilnik.Vozači startom utrke usvajaju ove propozicije i voze na vlastitu odgovornost. Organizator ne snosi odgovornost za djela učinjena od strane vozača prema trećim osobama. Organizator zadržava pravo promjena uvjeta utrke bez prethodne najave. Obavezno nošenje zaštitne kacige bez koje nastup neće biti dozvoljen. Maloljetne osobe mogu nastupiti uz potpis roditelja/staratelja na pisanoj izjavi (koju moraju predati kod kupnje broja) u kojoj je vidljivo da je roditelj/staratelj suglasan da dijete nastupi na rekreativnoj utrci na vlastitu odgovornost.
Napomena: Dodjela nagrada je u nedjelju 20:00 na trgu Tvrdalj u Starom Gradu.
Vidimo se :)

August 10, 2019 - A new chapter for the troubled Dalmacijavino winery in Stari Grad, and a fantastic opportunity to develop the Hvar gourmet story. 

When it opened in 1952, it was the most modern and beautiful winery in Croatia. Oenologist, agronomist and engineer Vanja Zanko returned from Provence in 1948 and started to build a new winery in Stari Grad, which was finally completed in 1952.

(The opening of the winery in 1952)

After initial glory years, the Dalmacijavino winery fell upon hard times, and it has been sitting unwanted and unused on the entrance to Stari Grad for many years now. 

But no longer! 

A unanimous decision from the Stari Grad Town Council this week has ensured a brighter future for the building and its surrounding lands, as the town will purchase them and bring the Damacijavino winery and surrounding lands into the ownership of the local authority, which is great news. 

Significant investment will be required to restore the winery to its former glory, and while I am not aware of the plans for developing the winery, I would be surprised if it was returned to its original use as a winery. And perhaps there is a much better use for it.

As I wrote recently, Hvar is blessed with so many interesting, high-quality and unique food and wine experiences, that it can quite easily rebrand and expand its image as a food and wine destination immersed in culture (you can read Creating Quality Gourmet Tourism in Croatia: Case Study Hvar here).

(Hvar TV reports on a 2012 exhibition to mark 60 years of the opening of the winery)

Jelsa is the de facto (although unclaimed) capital of Dalmatian wine, Hvar the wine island, whose Mediterranean Diet joined the list of intangible UNESCO heritage in 2013, along with Brac and 7 other places on the Mediterranean. The winery is located on the edge of UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Stari Grad Plain. The location really could not be better. 

So why not build a temple of celebration of Hvar's incredible wine story, its Mediterranean Diet, a proper introduction to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Stari Grad Plain, and a celebration of the rest of the UNESCO heritage on Hvar, the island with the most UNESCO heritage in the world?

A wine museum, a wine tasting facility, an interactive Stari Grad Plain exhibition, cooking classes and workshops. Plant lavender and immortelle and other Hvar crops in some of the neighbouring fields to showcase the diversity of Hvar's herbal and plant life which contribute to so many products here. 

There is plenty of space for a multi-functional facility, including winemaking, under the brand of Hvar gourmet. Olive oil production, honey production, lavender oil production, rakija production - a section to learn how all these processes were done all those years ago, and still today. There will also be EU funding for the right application.

In an age where tourists are looking for things to do on a rainy day, could there be a better option? And not just when it is raining. The creation of a UNESCO Hvar gourmet centre would help to develop the brand, which could be further developed by the numerous food and wine tours on the island. 

A fantastic opportunity. Let's see what happens, but whatever happens, the fact that there will be a change of ownership is great news. It comes around the same time that that the Helios Hotel Group, the main hotel provider in the town, is also looking forward to a brighter future, as Valamar looks set to invest to bring them up to four-star standard. 

The future of tourism in Stari Grad is looking very bright indeed. 

Learn more about Stari Grad with 25 things to know.

The Zagreb Stock Exchange reported today that Helios Faros, a hotel company from Stari Grad on Hvar was allowed to leave the receivership status it had, as Valamar Riviera and PBZ Croatia Osiguranje will invest 650 million kuna into the reconstruction of the company's hotels.

After that investment, Valamar now owns 23,61% of the stocks of the Helios Faros company, and PBZ Croatia Osiguranje owns 70,83%. At the same time, the capital stock of the company has been increased to 96,56 million kuna. During the receivership process, all creditors were paid, which allowed the Commercial court in Split to finish the receivership, Goran Rihelj reports for hrturizam.hr.

Through the partnership between PBZ Croatia Osiguranje and Valamar, who will manage the hotels and other facilities owned by Helios Faros, a new phase of tourism in Stari Grad on the island of Hvar will start. For decades now, the company has been the leader of Stari Grad's tourism, and it has been in receivership since February 2016.

There are currently 1,465 beds in the company's two- and three-star hotels Arkada and Lavanda (both located in the so-called Helios neighbourhood on the northern side of Stari Grad bay) and the Jurjevac camp.

The proposal of a takeover by PBZ Croatia Osiguranje and Valamar Riviera detailed the five-year plan of investment into the tourist properties, worth 650 million kuna.

Two resorts will be completely reconstructed and newly built, of a high category, with a capacity of around 700 units. That will reposition the portfolio of the company towards the premium sector, which will add to the attractiveness and recognisability of Stari Grad as a destination. According to this plan, after the reconstruction of the hotels Akrada and Lavanda, the company will employ 500 workers.

A Cabaret Show and some drops of excellent wines thrilled Stari Grad on Hvar on Thursday evening, when the wine and stage spectacle was held in the amazing atmosphere of the open-air theatre. The performance was dubbed the "pocket-sized musical", and it has attracted many inhabitants of Stari Grad and their guests, so the theatre was completely full.

Those who managed to find a seat for themselves enjoyed an hour and a half performance of Cabaret à la Carte, partnered by the wines and hard liqueur by Dalmacijavino. The people attending confirmed that the evening was a success, that the musical performance was wonderful, as were the good wines that accompanied it.

The event was organised partially to be a promotion of R'kaciteli, a new addition to the wines made by Dalmacijavino, a fresh, summery white wine, originating from Georgia, that has been cultivated near Drniš since the eighties, since it's quite sweet and works well when blended with Dalmatian varieties. This is the first time the variety has been produced in Croatia as a monovarietal wine, and the first impressions of it seem to be exceptional.

The local media said that the event was a great addition to the already excellent tourist-oriented programs, and many people have shown the desire to see a reprise in the future. Andrea Previšić from Dalmacijavino's marketing said that they wanted to give to the wine-lovers an evening to relax and enjoy the moment. The reactions are great, as are the compliments to the wines, and that is something that makes Dalmacijavino happy. The Wine & Jazz festival starts soon on Hvar and Brač and Dalmacijavino wines will be a part of that event too, so she invited music and wine lovers not to miss that event!

The Wine and Jazz starts on July 22nd in Stari Grad, Hvar, Jelsa and Bol on Brač, as a unique event on the Croatian coast, bringing together wine and food with the great music.

Eight days of the program will be filled with some of the world's top jazz musicians, as well as numerous lectures, exhibitions, movie screenings, presentations and wine tastings by some of the best winemakers from the region. The music will be provided by Cubismo, Jazzoleptic with their amazing lead singer Nikola Marjanović, Mihael Parušev trio with singers Jana Fabijanić and Habiba Menaz'Dear, Gadjo Manuche gypsy jazz band, and deep house/jazz duo by Jan Kinčl and Regis Kattie.

For more stories on Hvar, go to our destination page: Total Hvar

July 18, 2019 - Stari Grad on Hvar is providing a great summer programme on a limited budget. Next up cabaret and a jazz and wine festival. 

One destination which is moving very much in the right direction these days is Stari Grad on Hvar. An extended riva to develop its nautical credentials, new 4-star owners of its troubled 2-star hotels, and two planned 5-star hotels, one of which will open next year. 

But more impressive is what is happening in the town itself. The historic old streets of the oldest town of Hvar, dating back 2,400 years, are among the most authentic and best preserved in Croatia. No cheap Chinese souvenirs here (or very few), the narrow warren of streets offer stores offering authentic local products, art galleries and bags of authentic charm. Along with Korcula Town, it is the best place I have visited this summer. Here was my stroll around the town a few weeks ago.

There is a new dynamism in the tourist board and tourist direction. After many months without a director, a new one has been installed, and his vision of the town is already paying dividends. There are several new festivals these summer, including one for honey and the first international Pelinkovac festival.

The diverse programme is set to continue tonight with an evening of cabaret at the summer cinema, as Stari Grad then eases itself as the main host of what looks like a fantastic event - and one being held also in Hvar Town, Jelsa and Bol on the island of Brad - the Jazz and Wine Festival. 

I have very fond memories of wine tasting evenings with music on the Stari Grad square of Skor - authentic Dalmatia at its finest. 

The festival will be held in Stari Grad on July 20-24, then Hvar Town, Jelsa and Bol. You can see the full programme (in Croatian - Google Translate is your friend) here. And get a flavour of the atmosphere from the trailer below. Follow the official Facebook page here. 

Want to learn more about Stari Grad? Here are 25 things to know. 

July 10, 2019 - The 33rd Stari Grad Summer Festival is out!

Stari Grad is a destination which is developing its tourism very nicely, and in these days of overtourism elsewhere, there is a relaxed feel about the oldest town on Hvar. 

Get a flavour with this photo essay around Stari Grad a couple of weeks ago.

The programme for the 33rd Stari Grad Summer Festival is now out - and there is a nice varied selection of things going on. If I had to pick one time to come, I think it would be for the very impressive Dani u Vali (Days in the Bay) festival in September. I don't think I have seen Stari Grad shine so much. Check out the trailer below.

Want to learn more about Stari Grad? Here are 25 things to know.

June 26, 2019 - As tourists fill up the roads, beaches and bars in the summer heat, meet one ancient and relaxed island destination with its own cooling system, where time stands still. 

It is a strange feeling walking around a tourist island where you used to live, looking at towns and villages where you used to know every shop and bar but have not visited for years. Especially in the searing heat of 30 C - far too hot for this pink Englishman. The thought of heading to Stari Grad on Hvar in the midday sun for some meetings was not one I relished. 

But then I remembered something about Stari Grad - just how cool it was. Not in the sense of stylish cool (it is very much that as well), but a haven from the heat.  

Stari Grad has a timeless quality where nothing seems to change, and yet things are changing very nicely, as the destination retains its historic charm while upping the level of quality. It is one of the most underrated destinations on the Adriatic, one of the most vibrant island towns 12 months a year, and a destination which is not exposed to the mass tourism one experiences elsewhere. It has always been for me the heartbeat of the island, home to the main ferry, shopping area and court, to name but three. 

And walking around the idyllic old town for the first time in years, I fell in love again and noted that while nothing had changed, a lot had changed. 

The abundant squares in various locations of the old town, which was founded by the Ancient Greeks 2400 years ago (along with the nearby UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Stari Grad Plain) have changed little over the centuries. They are connected by a warren of cobbled pedestrianised streets where you can easily get lost, but not for long, as the old town is perfectly sized to explore without getting disoriented.  Cyclists were a constant theme as I wandered round, as tourists took advantage of the space and slow pace of life to explore. 

Stari Grad's deep bay has long made it a favourite port of call for sailors, ever since the Greeks sailed in in 384 BC, and the extension of the riva in recent years has made it a magnet for sailing companies, whose shiny boats coexist peacefully with the local fishing and taxi boats. 

The 2400 birthday a couple of years ago was accompanied by some upgrades to both the infrastructure and parts of the old town, including a repaving of Hektorovic Square, which gaurds the entrance to the famous fortress and fishpond of famous 16th century Croatian writer, Petar Hektorovic. 

Coffee o'clock any time of day. 

So much space, such a delightful chilled pace of life.  

And also a chilled place to walk in the midday heat. The old town of Stari Grad has always been much cooler than any other place on the island for me, a wonderful and relaxed place to walk around with its alleys to explore, and several degrees cooler than out on the waterfront. And with most people at the beach during the day, walking around the ancient squares and alleys not only keeps the heat at bay, but gives you the chance to see authentic Stari Grad without having to share with many others.  

A lot of the restaurants have been there for years, and new ones are springing up. Apolon became the first Hvar restaurant to make the Michelin guide last year. 

What has increased a lot in recent years are the artisan and local product shops, such as Za Pod Zub - done with passion and love and adding to the already considerable charm of the town.  

I really liked the signage too, nothing brash here, just stylish advertising of stores that added to the ambiance.  

Stari Grad has long been known for its artistic scene, and there are several art galleries, art shops and numerous museums here. What to do when it rains on Hvar (if we can remember back to the days of rain)? Stari Grad would be my top recommendation, as it offers a lot of indoor cultural activitiy.  

And churches. 

The magnificent cathedral on St Stephen's Square.  

15 years ago, as a real estate agent, I almost sold this building to a foreign buyer who wanted to open a Thai restaurant there. He was put off by the statics of the building after learning how it had been damaged by a bomb in World War II. 

And here it was, 15 years later, totally unchanged. Timeless. And a snapshot of the history and stories contained within every stone of this wonderful old town.  

A lot of things had changed, and a lot of things had not. And while there were many new eateries I did not recognise, it was heartening to see the place I used to refer to as the hearbeat of Hvar continuing to thrive. Pizzeria Marko was the main meeting point for lots of the resident expats back in the day - great, affordable food and run by lovely people. And it was great to see that at Marko's - like elsewhere in Stari Grad, some things had changed and nothing had changed. 

I visited in late June and had much of the old town to myself, a far cry from the mayhem of the mainland coast which followed. 

Want to learn more about Stari Grad? Here are 25 things to know.

For more about the island, check out the Total Croatia Hvar in a Page guide.

Stari Grad on Hvar hosts the first ever international festival of the iconic Pelinkovac on June 27, 2019.

One thing I have learned in my 17 years in Croatia is that if it grows, Croatians will make a festival out of it. During my time here, the culinary delights have included trying the edible dormouse (delicious) in Dol on Hvar, lavender ice cream (interesting) in Velo Grablje on Hvar, bean ice cream (let's not go there) in Kastela, and pumpkin beer (rather good) in Ivanic Grad. For an overview of the weird and wonderful food festivals in Croatia, check out 25 natural food festivals in Croatia.

But, incredibly, for a nation which will seemingly celebrate anything (including World Cup semi-final victories against England), there has been no festival for a drink which is a national icon.

Until now.

Pelinkovac. 

I am not sure how this oversight came to pass, but congratulations to Stari Grad on the island of Hvar for organising the first International Pelinkovac Festival in the world! Calling all Pelin lovers everywhere to come and celebrate this famous drink on June 27 for the first of what is hoped to be a regular part of the Stari Grad tourist calendar in the future. 

From the event Facebook page:

First of it's kind! Unique festival in charming Stari Grad on island Hvar.

Love Pelin? Join us and discover different ways to enjoy this amazing liqour.

Never heard of Pelin? Visit our fest and find your new favorite liquid.

10 kinds of Pelinkovac to try neat or in Cocktails.

Masterclass and workshop. ( limited places - > sign until 24.06.2019 at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. )

Pop up cocktail bars with ones of the best bartenders in Croatia.

Live music and great vinyl vibes!

Stay tuned for more info!

Vidimo se!

You can follow the latest on the first international Pelinkovac festival on Facebook. 

Interested in learning more about Pelinkovac? Check out the history in the video below. 

And, as for gorgeous Stari Grad, here are 25 things to know.