July 7, 2019 - The Croatian culture of moving vegetables goes global as never before, with the first Hvar beetroot used in homemade borscht in Pyatigorsk in southern Russia. 

Life as a Dalmatian zet (son-in-law) is not easy. 

Don't get me wrong, I have the best parents-in-law in the world, and they have been VERY accommodating over the years of this weird fat, pink English bloke their daughter dragged up from somewhere. 

It is just that there are some fundamental differences in basic things. Like vegetables, and moving vegetables. 

As a boy from Manchester, it is no secret that our vegetables are all grown in supermarkets, and the concept of seasonality simply does not exist. 

So it was quite a shock to move to a gorgeous Dalmatian island and become part of a Hvar family which was very much connected to nature and the fruits of the field. Much of the food on the family table was grown by my father-in-law, and while he has always been outstanding with me, it is clear that a son-in-law digging potatoes rather than playing around on a laptop with a beer all day would have been a preferred option. 

He is an amazing, hard-working man who has achieved great things from his humble beginnings. One of ten children who had to walk 90 minutes to and from school from Brusje to Hvar Town each day, he not only managed to build his own family house in Jelsa, but also put his four kids through university. And his passion was the field he bought almost 30 years ago, where the family olive oil (excellent), wine (very good) and daily fruit and vegetables come from. 

That affinity to nature was one of the great things about bringing up children on Hvar (apart from the safety, community and of course the Adriatic), and this Manchester boy and entourage is now an enthusiastic olive picker each harvest. One of the few obligations of a Dalmatian zet. 

It wasn't long before I lived in Jelsa that I began to understand the importance (and generosity) of the whole moving vegetables scene. When we moved into the family house and the top floor apartment, there was a welcoming gift for me - a stainless steel tank of his homemade wine, marked Pol (a variation of my first name). It was incredibly generous and the tank which just kept on giving, until one day it gave no more... 

But it was the journeys I remember the best. You are going to Zagreb to stay with my son? The boot of the car was filled with cabbage the next morning. And oddly, six months later, when I was making the journey in reverse, a boot full of different cabbage was making its way from Zagreb to Jelsa. I was totally immersed in the culture of moving vegetables. 

I remember flying to London about 15 years ago from Graz, via Zagreb. As a passenger on the bus, I found the 10 litres of wine for delivery to Zagreb and the (VERY generous) 5 litres of olive oil for my family in the UK, quite a challenge, particularly as I tried to check in the oil at Graz Airport. But I was not only grateful but charmed by such a generous and natural way 

And then, one day, my status as leading foreign child-in-law was challenged, as my other brother-in-law returned from the cruise ships with an exotic fiancee. 

Julia was everything I was not - young, beautiful and a very good olive picker, and the first time she came to visit, she insisted on preparing dinner for her fiance's family - a really delicious borscht. My father-in-law was impressed, and I saw that I had lost my spot as preferred in-law forever. 

(A Russian and a Brit compete for the title of Best Foreign In-Law Olive Picker 2017 - there was only one winner, and it was not me)

She, too, was a child of the land, in a way that this boy from Manchester could never be. And as the young (now married) couple prepared to visit her family in Pyatigorsk in southern Russia, including her incredible babuska, who sounded like she had much in common with my father-in-law, discussions took place about the type of gifts they should take from Hvar to Julia's family. 

A golden moving vegetables moment, and my father-in-law came up with a most personal and culturally acceptable gift which really touched the hearts of Julia's family - Hvar beetroot from his field. 

And that is how the first borscht in the history of Russia (we think) came to be made from Hvar beetroot. And not just borscht, but an array of salads and other dishes.  

You wouldn't get that in Manchester. 

(Babuska and Punica)

Learn more about Moving Vegetables here. 

July 5, 2019 - Hvar Town is changing, and for the better. Some observations from a foreign home owner. 

It is the destination which truly has it all. 

The sunniest island in Europe, the most UNESCO heritage of any island in the world, the oldest public theatre in Europe, the birthplace of organised tourism in Europe, an outstanding cultural, food and wine scene, some of the best beaches and cleanest seas in the world, as well as incredible nightlife. What is not to love about Hvar?

The egalitarian island, which attracts both A-list celebs (Sylvester Stallone and Jon Bon Jovi in the last couple of weeks, for example) and backpackers, is famous for its ability to offer an incredible tourist experience to different types of tourists simultaneously, and Parry Hvar and Cultural Hvar have coexisted well for decades until relatively recently, when the party took over the peak season and was in danger of changing the image of the elite island. 

Local authorities have been working hard to restore the original balance over the last 12 months, and while there is probably some way to go before this is fully achieved, the initial reports are that the tourism experience in Hvar Town is much improved on just a year ago. I noticed the change a couple of weeks ago during a stay at Hotel Adriana, which you can read about here.

And it seems I am not alone in noticing the changes. Barbara Kirby, a South African, who has had property in Hvar Town since 2014 and runs Luxurious Adriatic, posted on Facebook last night:

I’m so much in love with Hvar, by day it has so many surprises - small beaches and little coves to swim, awesome long walks and by night, a completely frenetic, different place. A lot quieter from previous years which we enjoy and the tourists are hopefully starting to respect the magnificent Old Town. Huge super yachts in town tonight which means quality tourists are returning. 

Let’s hope I am right.

I contacted Barbara to ask permission to use her text and photos, and she added this with her consent:

Actually it was such a pleasure in Hvar last night, we could sleep before 1:30.    This time last year was too terrible.   Hopefully beautiful Hvar is changing.

To learn more about the elite destination of Hvar, as it puts its party tourism back in the right balance, check out the Total Croatia Hvar in a Page guide. 

July 2, 2019 - As Hvar continues to move its image and tourist offer from party to more luxury tourism, TCN meets Dubravka Novak, manager of the island's leading hotel, Adriana.

This is an important year for tourism in Hvar Town. A year after celebrating 150 years of the birth of organised tourism in Europe with the founding of the Hvar Health Society in 1868, 2019 also has some significant happenings which are restoring the island's standing as a place of culture and tradition. The opening of the oldest public theatre in Europe after a 20-year renovation, as well as the renovated Arsenal and imminent opening of the first 5-star hotel, Palace Elisabeth, hvar heritage hotel have done much to restore the focus on the town's history, heritage and traditions. 

And the hotels are following suit. During a recent stay at Hotel Adriana on Hvar, I had the opportunity to catch up with hotel manager Dubravka Novak on the part her hotel is playing in Hvar's new direction. 

1. Hvar's leading hotel Adriana has undergone a facelift over the last year. Can you tell us a little about the changes?

The hotel was revamped last year and received a complete makeover. Refurbishments were done on all public areas, which include the entrance, lobby and lobby bar, as well as Val Marina restaurant, which has a charming outdoor terrace. Top Bar was also refurbished and it now includes a comfortable, modern lounge area with a restaurant that has a most beautiful view of the city and Hvar port. The biggest addition to the hotel are of course its three new luxurious penthouse suites. What I would also highlight is the top quality Gourmet and Spa service that we personalize for each guest. Moreover, our Sensori Spa also received a makeover; now we have four different saunas, eight massage rooms, relaxation room, gym, VIP treatment room and indoor jacuzzi. Our guests are also offered refreshing and healthy drinks throughout their day at the spa. 

2. You are part of the Stories boutique hotel collection, just 17 small hotels in Croatia. Tell us more about that and what is YOUR story?

We have a beautiful Gourmet and Spa story and offer our guests a unique breakfast experience composed of rich, healthy local food from the island (Hvar honey, goat cheese, fresh fruit and vegetables from the island’s fields) and home-made products such as yogurt, kefir, peanut butter, coconut butter, carrot cake, apple oatmeal muffins, freshly squeezed juices; orange, tomato, carrot, ginger, beetroot and apple. We also have different freshly prepared fruit smoothies, homemade brandies, salt with various herbs such as oregano, rosemary, oranges, etc. What we also offer our guests is detox water - prepared daily with different healthy ingredients.

3. While hotels often have services open to non-residents, it is not always easy to find that information. What can you offer to Hvar's guests who are not staying with you?

All non-residents are very welcome at hotel Adriana and often visit our Top Bar and Val Marina restaurant. Also, we have a lot of non-resident guests who enjoy different spa services and treatments that we offer at our Sensori Spa, that spreads across 6 different indoor and outdoor levels. Many non-residents choose to take a whole 'spa day' in order to use all our spa services, from the sauna, pool, gym and spa terrace.

4. You have an interesting concept as a spa hotel, connecting gastronomy and spa. Can you tell us more about it?

Our services are designed to accommodate personal preferences. On check-in we provide refreshing towels with a scent of lavender, so guests can have a feeling of a “spa ambience”, as well as a welcome prosecco in the room. The gourmet experience is defined throughout the hotel as we focus on organic and homemade products. In the Spa we have a so-called refreshment carousel, where our staff can bring you freshly made smoothies, juices and delicious healthy snacks.  

 
5. Buying local is becoming more fashionable. How much do you rely on local suppliers, and can you tell us about some of the more unusual things you are sourcing on Hvar. I hear that there is a local perfume, for example.

In our spa we use relax and revive oils that are made in a little village on Hvar called Gdinj. We use these oils for aromatherapy massages. The peelings are also from different locally sourced Hvar herbs. In addition we have Hvar perfumes called Antique Hvar, created by Ela Ivanković from Stari Grad.

 
6. You have been working for Suncani Hvar for many years. How do you see the direction of tourism today?

Hvar is an elite tourist destination not a party destination. It should strive to have quality accommodation and services in the city; from gastronomy, excursion programs to good connections with mainland and neighboring islands. All of these factors play a large role in what type of guests arrive on the island; and with quality, Hvar will attract more people with higher spending power.

7. While Adriana is currently the top hotel on Hvar, the opening of the 5-star Hotel Palace Elisabeth this summer will raise the level even more. How significant is this for the island's tourism?

This is Hvar's first 5-star heritage hotel, and I believe it is very important for the island as it will raise the bar even higher, surely attracting more high-end hotel guests.
 
8. And finally, your favourite place on Hvar, and why?

Sveta Nedjelja is my favorite place that is in my heart and where I am from.

To learn more about Hotel Adriana, visit the Suncani Hvar website. 

To learn more about Hvar, check out the Total Croatia Hvar in a Page guide.

June 27, 2019 - Looking to build a dream home on a paradise island? Pitve on Hvar is the subject of Trgostan's latest Property of the Week.

It is the sunniest island in Europe and often features in lists of the top 10 most beautiful islands of the world. Hvar is also the island with the most UNESCO heritage in the world, and the place where organised tourism in Europe began way back in 1868. 

Long before that - about 2,000 years ago, the village of Pitve was founded, the oldest village on Hvar. Tucked up in the hills away from the pirates, Pitve was the reason that settlement of Jelsa was founded on the coast some 1300 years later. 

And if you want to know why Pitve was chosen as the first village all those years ago, all you have to do is head to the village and take in the views for yourself. 

Or, better still, buy a dream piece of building land and create your home there. This week's Property of the Week offers views, heritage and more view, views, views.  

EXCLUSIVELY OFFERED BY TRGOSTAN:

A plot of 1.572 m2 in a beautiful location in the village of Pitve on the north-west side of the island, at app 4 km from Jelsa and sea, of which 528 sqm is in the building zone (the rest is non building), with a spectacular view over the village toward Jelsa and sea, water connection on the plot, electricity nearby, public car access.

For more information, photos, price and to organise a viewing, visit the Trgostan listing.

June 26, 2019 - As tourists fill up the roads, beaches and bars in the summer heat, meet one ancient and relaxed island destination with its own cooling system, where time stands still. 

It is a strange feeling walking around a tourist island where you used to live, looking at towns and villages where you used to know every shop and bar but have not visited for years. Especially in the searing heat of 30 C - far too hot for this pink Englishman. The thought of heading to Stari Grad on Hvar in the midday sun for some meetings was not one I relished. 

But then I remembered something about Stari Grad - just how cool it was. Not in the sense of stylish cool (it is very much that as well), but a haven from the heat.  

Stari Grad has a timeless quality where nothing seems to change, and yet things are changing very nicely, as the destination retains its historic charm while upping the level of quality. It is one of the most underrated destinations on the Adriatic, one of the most vibrant island towns 12 months a year, and a destination which is not exposed to the mass tourism one experiences elsewhere. It has always been for me the heartbeat of the island, home to the main ferry, shopping area and court, to name but three. 

And walking around the idyllic old town for the first time in years, I fell in love again and noted that while nothing had changed, a lot had changed. 

The abundant squares in various locations of the old town, which was founded by the Ancient Greeks 2400 years ago (along with the nearby UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Stari Grad Plain) have changed little over the centuries. They are connected by a warren of cobbled pedestrianised streets where you can easily get lost, but not for long, as the old town is perfectly sized to explore without getting disoriented.  Cyclists were a constant theme as I wandered round, as tourists took advantage of the space and slow pace of life to explore. 

Stari Grad's deep bay has long made it a favourite port of call for sailors, ever since the Greeks sailed in in 384 BC, and the extension of the riva in recent years has made it a magnet for sailing companies, whose shiny boats coexist peacefully with the local fishing and taxi boats. 

The 2400 birthday a couple of years ago was accompanied by some upgrades to both the infrastructure and parts of the old town, including a repaving of Hektorovic Square, which gaurds the entrance to the famous fortress and fishpond of famous 16th century Croatian writer, Petar Hektorovic. 

Coffee o'clock any time of day. 

So much space, such a delightful chilled pace of life.  

And also a chilled place to walk in the midday heat. The old town of Stari Grad has always been much cooler than any other place on the island for me, a wonderful and relaxed place to walk around with its alleys to explore, and several degrees cooler than out on the waterfront. And with most people at the beach during the day, walking around the ancient squares and alleys not only keeps the heat at bay, but gives you the chance to see authentic Stari Grad without having to share with many others.  

A lot of the restaurants have been there for years, and new ones are springing up. Apolon became the first Hvar restaurant to make the Michelin guide last year. 

What has increased a lot in recent years are the artisan and local product shops, such as Za Pod Zub - done with passion and love and adding to the already considerable charm of the town.  

I really liked the signage too, nothing brash here, just stylish advertising of stores that added to the ambiance.  

Stari Grad has long been known for its artistic scene, and there are several art galleries, art shops and numerous museums here. What to do when it rains on Hvar (if we can remember back to the days of rain)? Stari Grad would be my top recommendation, as it offers a lot of indoor cultural activitiy.  

And churches. 

The magnificent cathedral on St Stephen's Square.  

15 years ago, as a real estate agent, I almost sold this building to a foreign buyer who wanted to open a Thai restaurant there. He was put off by the statics of the building after learning how it had been damaged by a bomb in World War II. 

And here it was, 15 years later, totally unchanged. Timeless. And a snapshot of the history and stories contained within every stone of this wonderful old town.  

A lot of things had changed, and a lot of things had not. And while there were many new eateries I did not recognise, it was heartening to see the place I used to refer to as the hearbeat of Hvar continuing to thrive. Pizzeria Marko was the main meeting point for lots of the resident expats back in the day - great, affordable food and run by lovely people. And it was great to see that at Marko's - like elsewhere in Stari Grad, some things had changed and nothing had changed. 

I visited in late June and had much of the old town to myself, a far cry from the mayhem of the mainland coast which followed. 

Want to learn more about Stari Grad? Here are 25 things to know.

For more about the island, check out the Total Croatia Hvar in a Page guide.

June 24, 2019 - We live in the Instagram age. If you are looking for a holiday rental to remember, can you beat Hvar Art House?

Full disclosure - the owner of Hvar Art House is a friend of mine. 

He is also a little nuts.

Just how nuts I was about to learn some time ago when he told me about his idea to add a little fizz to his rental property in Hvar Town. 

The idea of Hvar Art House sounded a little bizarre as he explained it over a beer. 

I saw some of the initial artwork on the walls and must confess that I personally liked it. 

And then THIS, the final product. 

No need for any comment from me, judge for yourselves, and engage the owner in debate on the official Facebook page. 

To learn more about the island of Hvar, check out the Total Croatia Hvar in a Page guide.

Stari Grad on Hvar hosts the first ever international festival of the iconic Pelinkovac on June 27, 2019.

One thing I have learned in my 17 years in Croatia is that if it grows, Croatians will make a festival out of it. During my time here, the culinary delights have included trying the edible dormouse (delicious) in Dol on Hvar, lavender ice cream (interesting) in Velo Grablje on Hvar, bean ice cream (let's not go there) in Kastela, and pumpkin beer (rather good) in Ivanic Grad. For an overview of the weird and wonderful food festivals in Croatia, check out 25 natural food festivals in Croatia.

But, incredibly, for a nation which will seemingly celebrate anything (including World Cup semi-final victories against England), there has been no festival for a drink which is a national icon.

Until now.

Pelinkovac. 

I am not sure how this oversight came to pass, but congratulations to Stari Grad on the island of Hvar for organising the first International Pelinkovac Festival in the world! Calling all Pelin lovers everywhere to come and celebrate this famous drink on June 27 for the first of what is hoped to be a regular part of the Stari Grad tourist calendar in the future. 

From the event Facebook page:

First of it's kind! Unique festival in charming Stari Grad on island Hvar.

Love Pelin? Join us and discover different ways to enjoy this amazing liqour.

Never heard of Pelin? Visit our fest and find your new favorite liquid.

10 kinds of Pelinkovac to try neat or in Cocktails.

Masterclass and workshop. ( limited places - > sign until 24.06.2019 at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. )

Pop up cocktail bars with ones of the best bartenders in Croatia.

Live music and great vinyl vibes!

Stay tuned for more info!

Vidimo se!

You can follow the latest on the first international Pelinkovac festival on Facebook. 

Interested in learning more about Pelinkovac? Check out the history in the video below. 

And, as for gorgeous Stari Grad, here are 25 things to know. 

June 22, 2019 - Where is the best place to observe life in the slow lane in Hvar Town? The case for spa hotel, Hotel Adriana. 

It is about 8 years since I first entered the lobby at Hotel Adriana, the luxury spa hotel which is currently the flagship of Suncani Hvar Hotels. I had just started a website called Total Hvar, and I was looking for some prominent Hvar businessmen to support my nascent project, and they suggested Adriana as a meeting place. 

Some eight years later, the destination of Hvar, my Total Hvar project (now part of the TCN family), Hotel Adriana, and I have all undergone quite some change, and I was very happy to accept a kind invitation from Suncani Hvar to spend the night at Adriana to see how things are changing in Hvar Town. 

And things ARE changing. For the better.

As the new Hvar Town Tourist Board Director, Petar Razovic, explained in a TCN interview two months ago, the destination s trying to change its party image and revert back to its traditional roots as a luxury destination. There are already some concrete signs of success in this direction, as well as agreements with the nightclub bosses which seem to be working. The Yacht Week, for example, no longer comes to Hvar Town, being instead diverted straight to Carpe Diem Beach, a huge improvement. And according to Rezovic, The Yacht Week only comes five times a month now, much less than before. 

But I was keen to see how things looked from Hotel Adriana, as it has always been for me the best place to observe life in Hvar Town. 

The heat of the day was an instant distant memory within seconds of arrival, as were greeted by wet towels and a glass of prosecco, before entering our first floor room. 

There is nothing wrong with a bedroom view like that.

One of the things I love about the Adriana view is that it takes in everything - a great view to the imposing Spanish fortress and the Arsenal and main square... 

And a lovely view of the busy and enchanting Hvar harbour and exclusive waterfront. 

And, as a people-watching exercise, it was hard to beat - congrats to the happy couple!

One of the joys of the Adriana is watching the diverse and busy harbour life, where sailors of all budgets and experience co-exist in a beautiful space. From the fishermen and water taxis, and the sailors and sea kayakers, to the superyachts and catamarans. It really is enchanting. Several years ago, Hvar TV put together a collage of Hvar harbour life speeded up - it is still a great watch today. 

I decided that I wanted to keep the windows open to see get a sense of the sounds - and the noise - of the destination. By far the most prominent and seductive noise in the late afternoon was the gentle lapping of waves almost directly below the room - you don't get that in every 'waterfront' hotel. 

Observing harbour life was like being in a posh and relaxed Mediterranean town back in the 1970s, the kind of place you would expect Sophia Loren to show up at any minute. Was this really a party destination? It had all the elements of a stylish and elite destination. 

A big change this summer is the large increase in the number of catamarans - some 16 in all during the peak season. I was expecting this to somehow change the dynamic of harbour life, but their frequent arrival was in harmony, the main difference being to reduce the queues of waiting passengers and increase choice. 

And as the day progressed, so too did the changing position of the sun change the colour of the facades of Hvar's stone houses. And so too did the riva fill up from with the boats from Krilo Jesenice bringing young tourists to sample the famous Hvar nightlife. The view above taken from the top of Hotel Adriana.

Arguably the best place for a pre-dinner cocktail is the Top Bar of Hotel Adriana, a stylish locale with fabulous views of the main sights of the town. Choose from the Arsenal, oldest public theatre in Europe and main square... 

Or the changing colours of the Hvar facades above the exclusive waterfront. 

Either way, an experience heartily recommended. The Top Bar was completely renovated in 2018 and now has three penthouse suites alongside. I will leave it to you to imagine how the bedroom views are from there.

Hotel Adriana is a member of Stories, an exclusive group of 17 small and boutique hotels in Croatia, and Adriana's focus is on spa and gourmet. Although we did not get to test out the spa facilities, the range of services - and its integration into the menu - was impressive. You can learn more about the Sensori Spa facilities here. 

The perceived wisdom is that Top Bar is the best terrace at Hotel Adriana, and some may even say in Hvar Town. The views are certainly divine, but I personally disagree, for the ground floor terrace at the Val Marina restaurant is a total gem, either for a drink, dinner, brunch or an unmissable breakfast experience. 

The restaurant is a little above the pedestrian walkway and separated by a glass fence. The effect is that the restaurant affords privacy and is not so well noticed by passers by, but gives diners a stunning view, prime position and a proximity to those addictive lapping waves. I came for breakfast several years ago and wrote how it was the best terrace in all Hvar Town.

It still is. 

There are also some gems on the wine list. Zlatan Aurum, for example, the 23-carat gold leaf Posip from the late, great Hvar winemaker, Zlatan Plenkovic, which can only be tried here outside the Sveta Nedjelja winery. Learn more about Zlatan Aurum. 

Could you imagine a better view for dinner?

I could write a separate blog about dinner, but let's keep it short here and pay special tribute to this starter, sea bass ceviche...

And if you are a lover of macarons, there is no avoiding this dessert. 

As dinner progressed, so the atmosphere of the day evolved. Many younger tourists were heading into the centre for an evening out, and the atmosphere was a lot more vibrant that earlier in the day. The change started around 22:00, but was not as dramatic as I had been expecting. One of the key agreements between Carpe Diem and the town, apart from removing The Yacht Week, has been to have better policing of the partygoers heading for the all-night party on Stipanska. Security guards have been employed to ensure the smooth running of things, as well as being in position to greet the tourists in the early hours on their return and ensure an orderly dispersal. 

Although we are not in peak season yet, the difference - to me at least - was marked. Walking around town last year was not that pleasant due to many drunken (and yes, mostly Brits) tourists, but it now only felt safe but much more relaved. I believe that party nightlife can co-exist with Hvar tourism, and this new strategy of outsourcing it from the centre seems to be working. 

There was plenty of music and action in the bars which have deals with the party boats - Kiva, Nautica, Seven, Aloha etc. and this was the centre of all nightlife until 2am. While not as intrusive to a relaxing stay as I expected, if there was a way to outsource this to another part of town, all the ingredients are there to really restore Hvar's place as an elite destination, attracting the kind of clientele such a destination deserves. 

But progress has been significant in the last year, and long may it continue. I decided to sleep with the window open to see how much noise there was. Apart from some shouting as one might expect, it was not too disruptive, and a closed window ensured a good night's sleep. It remains to be seen how the peak season will look, but Hvar is definitely moving in the right direction. Congratulations to all who have enabled this to happen.  

The morning view was hard to beat.  

And there are certainly worse places in the world to enjoy life as a digital nomad.  

And so to breakfast on THAT terrace. Open from 07:00 - 11:00 (non-residents welcome), it really is one of the top 5 things to do in Hvar Town - breakfast on the terrace at Hotel Adriana. 

It is several years since I had breakfast at Hotel Adriana, and I still remember the wonderful experience and the lazy morning on that terrace. It was every bit as good this time, if not better, and the emphasis on healthy living (no less than 11 types of milk to choose from) was plain to see. I plan to do a separate story on the Adriana breakfast experience, as I really think the combination of what is on offer nutrition-wise, combined with the view and ambiance, make it one of the best ways to observe Hvar Town. I didn't eat again until the following morning. 

And for those who wanted to indulge, the waffle temptation was never far away. 

Our stay was less than 24 hours in mid to late-June. A snapshot of a destination. As a place to observe life on Hvar and to truly relax, Hotel Adriana is hard to beat. 

But more importantly, the first results of change in Hvar Town's tourism direction are already bearing fruit, and it is encouraging to see. There is still some way to go, and I - along with many others - will be watching with interest. 

For one of the best seats to follow developments, I heartily recommend one of the Hotel Adriana terraces. 

To learn more about Hvar as a destination, check out the Total Croatia Hvar in a Page guide. 

June 21, 2019 - It is more than three years since one of Croatia's greatest winemakers passed away - a rare chance to try a special bottle in his honour - Zlatan Aurum. 

He was a titan. 

I remember the shock of hearing of the sudden and untimely passing of celebrated winemaker Zlatan Plenkovic in March, 2016, as he suddenly collapsed and died on the Split to Stari Grad ferry.

From his base in Sveta Nedjelja, with its fabled steep Plavac Mali vineyards, the Zlatan Otok Grand Cru was one of Croatia's most highly prized bottles. But his range of wines included so much more than his flagship red, and I remember reporting on his Posip winning Decanter gold in London. 

Soon after his untimely death, the Zlatan Otok winery announced that it wanted to honour the life of Zlatan with a special, very limited edition called Zlatan Aurum (Zlatan's first name means 'gold' in Croatian, hence the Latin name for gold in the special wine, which had 23 carat-gold leaf inside). This is how the Zlatan Otok winery announced the wine at the time:

We wanted to do something in honor of Zlatan so we came to idea of white wine with gold leafs. Zlatan achieved many successes with this wine so we decided to do it with pošip. Gold represents him and the vinery as his legacy also, not just beacause his name, and the name of winery in Croatian language means gold, also because Zlatan was such great person, loved by many people.

.-limited edition wine

-vintage 2015

-23 karat edible gold leafs

-13% alcohol

I have heard nothing about Zlatan Aurum since that first announcement. 

Until this morning. During a conversation after breakfast with the director of Hotel Adriana, I learned that Zlatan Aurum was one of a number of very impressive wines on the Val Marina Restaurant wine list. And not only that, but Suncani Hvar Hotels are the only place outside Zlatan's Sveta Nedjelja where you can find this rare wine. 

You can read TCN's tribute to Zlatan Plenkovic here.

Looking to learn more about Croatian wine? Check out the Total Croatia Croatian Wine in a Page guide. 

June 21, 2019 - A fantastic new addition to island life on Hvar for those looking for the finer things in life - meet Gastro Hvar.

When I first moved to Hvar in 2003, I remember being a little shocked at the lack of food options for shopping in winter. Tomatoes were unheard of, for example, and the various food items you took for granted back in the UK simply did not exist. The rumour of avocados in Hvar Town, or perhaps fresh ginger, would have me jumping into the car to get there before the treasured supply ran out. 

The opening of the Konzum in Dolac by Hvar bus station was very exotic - they even had foreign wine and cooked chickens ready to go. This was unheard of previously. Of course, living on the island and married to a lovely local, most of our food came from the family field, as it still does. Something I appreciate more as the years pass by. 

But it is still nice to be able to get some of the more exotic stuff on occasion, right?

A really great addition to the Hvar shopping scene opened this week on the hill above the town on the new road to Stari Grad (on the left side as you leave Hvar Town). Gastro Hvar brings together several high quality sections of the gastronomy under one roof, and it will function as both a wholesale and a retail space. Great news for sailors, tourists, local restaurants and local residents. 

Gastro Hvar has brought together some of the best names in food supply under one roof. The famous Zigante truffles, the excellent seafood of Ribarnica Brac, fresh vegetables from Fistonic, and a great selection of domestic and foreign wines from Acrobat doo.  

Initial feedback from people who have visited has been extremely positive. I went to visit today, but they were closed in the afternoon, from midday to 17:00. You can find out more information by contacting them via the official Facebook page. 

To learn more about the island, check out the Total Croatia Hvar in a Page guide.