July 13, 2019 - Fifteen years after expensive property shows in London and elsewhere, the troubled Male Rudine villas on Hvar are set to open their doors. 

They were the poster child of how difficult it was to build anything on Hvar, and I remember very well the day I first heard about a new villa complex in Male Rudina, back in 2004. I was in the real estate business at the time and had my own agency. 

Male Rudine? That divine little hamlet with just two full-time inhabitants. a new development of 11 luxury villas all with pools in a cul de sac similar to the set on Desperate Housewives. Hvar had never seen anything like it. 

And it looked like Hvar never would. 

For soon after the building permit was issued (and it did exist, I still have a copy), the permit was revoked, the first time I had heard of such a thing in my real estate dealings. The owners, confident that they could overturn the decision, decided to press on with the building, and they finished construction of all eleven villas. But with no water and electric connections, the project came to a grinding halt. And that, seemingly, was that. I remember the price of the best villa at the front of the plot - 737,000 euro.  

Years passed. The villages suffered from negelct, and there was a general sense of decay and abandonment. I visited a couple of time over the years, but things only looked sadder. The Four Seasons Brizenica Bay project - itself on its knees and still awaiting agreement on the road access, never mind a full construction permit - was close by. If the villas could be legalised and rescued and Four Seasons built, this would be a rather interesting pocket of the island. 

I was showing friends around the island, and we decided to go to Male Rudine to take some photos of this lovely Dalmatian hamlet and its gorgeous traditional features. I went to show them the villas too, an example of how things go wrong. And I was surprised to see we were not alone. There was a flurry of activity, with workmen everywhere - and they all had one thing in common - their cars had Czech plates.  

I asked one what the story was. A Czech investor had bought the lot (at quite a nice price I assume), and they were busy finishing and furnishing them all for this season. They plan to open next month, for rental only.  

Walking around, the development looked tidy and well-kept. There is still work to be done on the landscaping, but the views were as gorgeous as always, and the peacefulness was idyllic. 

A white elephant project has come back to life, and I am sure it will attract some good guests to the Stari Grad region in the years to come. 

Just the final touches and linen to be added, and things will be ready for business, some 15 years on. In Dalmatia, perhaps this is not such a slow timeframe. Pomalo, pomalo. 

A really special night on the top of the island of Hvar on July 15, 2019, as Samoan singing sensation Klapa Samoana make their way from the Pacific to the peak of Croatia's premier island. 

It is one of those unlikely cultural stories - a group of Samoan singers performing traditional Croatian songs a cappella exactly like a Dalmatian Klapa group. But Klapa Samoana not only are the only Samoan klapa singers, but have also won the hearts of millions of Croats with their renditions of Dalmatian classics during last week's world cup. They even have a town square named after them in one Croatian town. 

And Klapa Samoana are coming to Hvar and will be performing live on the top of the island at Hvarcienda on Monday, with their concert starting at 21:00.  

It seems the Samoan sensations are even TCN readers, as one of our articles from last summer was included in this interview explaining how they became interested in Croatia and its music. One of the group had a Croatian music teacher in Auckland who first aroused interest in Croatia. A tuba player, he went to Croatia on a school trip, and the rest is history. Watch the video - a very nice story.  

The concert will be part of an evening from sunset to sunrise at Hvarcienda, a stunning chill zone by Hvar's peak of St. Nikola, in splendid isolation. You can learn more about Hvarcienda here. 

Klapa Samoana will be followed by DJ Occko for a dance party which will go on until the early hours. There will be food, wine, and the most divine setting. 

Space is limited, so book soon to avoid disappointment. TCN will be covering the event. You can reserve your spot via the Hvarcienda Facebook page or by calling +385-95-5227-135. Here they are in action:

July 13, 2019 - The Bench is one of the iconic symbols of Dalmatia, but is there a more beautiful bench and sunset view in the world than this one on Hvar?

Regular readers of TCN and - before that - may be familiar with my unhealthy obsession with one of the bastions of Dalmatian culture - The Bench. 

A male kingdom, where females do not roam, each community has its own bench, where the male village elders assemble at different times of the day - early evening is popular - to discuss the weighty matters of the hour, such as the olive harvest. Opinions are given, facts thrown out, and Jelsa's iconic bench was known as the Island Wikipedia. As with many things in Dalmatia, who needs the latest technology like Google, when you have a ready-made domestic solution in place?

I walked past The Bench for years longing to sit, but I couldn't. For seating is only by invitation, and one has to earn the right. As a foreigner, I had no chance, for The Bench was reserved for the village elders. I even blogged that a seat on The Bench, it happened. 

I was passing the hallowed bench, late for an important business meeting, when a voice from The Bench called me over and invited me to sit. My heart beat faster. An invitation to The Bench. And after only 13 years living in Jelsa.  The business meeting might have been important, but nothing was as important as accepting an invitiation on The Bench. I was beyond honoured. 

Sadly, 'progress' meant that The Bench is no more in Jelsa, at least in its traditional form, and now the Jelsa Einsteins are forced to sit a little lower down on a newer bench. It is not the same, although their pearls of wisdom remain unaffected. 

But life goes on, and there are other benches in the world. It is several years since I went to the 'other' fortress on Hvar, Napoljun. You can drive or hike, but the rewards are plentiful. Check out this bench view!

A lot of people who visit Hvar, at some point during their stay, climb up the hill to the Spanish Fortress. This offers a magnificent view of the the town and its surroundings. Probably a lot less people go up its bigger eastern neighbour which has the French fortress at its top.

This is a shame because it has an even more spectacular view. The French Fortress is better known on Hvar as Napoljun. The name Napoljun derives from emperor Napoleon whose army occupied Hvar at the beginning of the nineteenth century.

The French decided to have the fortress built after an unsuccessful battle with Russian troops. Today the fortress still watches over Hvar and nowadays houses the Hvar observatory.

There's a hiking trail which should get you up there in about 20- 30 minutes. Oh yes, there is also a regular road leading up, which means you can take the car, but that is much less fun. Unless you are a fat pink Englishman. 

 If you want to try up, take the old road to Stari Grad and Brusje, and then turn right at the small turn at the top of the map. 

Is there a more beautiful bench and sunset view in the world?

To learn more about the island, check out the Total Croatia Hvar in a Page guide. 

July 13, 2019 - June and July are the months of lavender harvesting in Dalmatia - a gorgeous 1970 video showing how it was done 50 years ago.

Lavender fields in bloom are one of the most beautiful sights that Nature has bestowed upon us, as well as one of the most aromatic experiences. 

Hvar is often known as the lavender island, and at one point it was the 8th biggest producer in the world. The photo above is taken, we believe, around 1985. Gorgeous, isn't it?

Sadly, emigration and forest fires have severely diminished Hvar's lavender fields over the years, and while there is still some to be found, it is sadly just a fraction of what it once was. The village of Velo Grablje, near Hvar Town, celebrates the traditions of lavender each year with its own Lavender Festival. 

A wonderful 1970 video has surfaced - extremely well edited for the time - of the lavender harvest on Hvar, complete with plenty of donkey action. A really lovely snapshot of this most traditional aspect of Hvar life.  

Fifty years later, and lavender harvesting continues. Another excellent video of the 2018 harvest on the top of the island, courtesy of Jadran Lazic, with drone footage by Jaksa Kusmicic and editing by Miranda Milicic Bradbury. It is very hot work, and the 6am start is essential. 

To learn more about the island, check out the Total Croatia Hvar in a Page guide. 

More international recognition for the island of Hvar on July 10, 2019, as Croatia's premier island is voted the 7th best in Europe by Travel + Leisure.

For years, it was known as one of the ten most beautiful islands in the world (it still is, in this Englishman's humble opinion). That title came from a survey of Conde Nast readers in - from memory - 1997. 

And the traveller's love of Hvar lives on, this time through the readers of the influential Travel + Leisure at their World's Best Awards 2019. Hvar and the Pakleni Islands featured in the top 15 islands in Europe, and the section was introduced as follows:

European culture, history, and food only get better when paired with the relaxation quotient of an island. The spectacular coastlines of the best islands in Europe — five of which were also voted among the 15 best islands in the world — showcase a wide range of terrains, from craggy volcanic cliffs to feather-soft sand.

Every year for our World’s Best Awards survey, Travel + Leisure asks readers to weigh in on travel experiences around the globe — to share their opinions on the top cities, islands, cruise ships, spas, airlines, and more. Readers rated islands according to their activities and sights, natural attractions and beaches, food, friendliness, and overall value.

Hvar was the only Croatian island that made this year's list, coming in at number 7. You can see the full list here. 

And there have been plenty of additions to Hvar for 2019, which may well be reflected in next year's results. The oldest public theatre in Europe opened again on May 1 after 20 years of renovation. Below it, the renovated Arsenal building is also open once more. And across the square, next month will see the opening of the first 5-star hotel on the island, as Palace Elisabeth, heritage hvar hotel opens its doors - the very spot were organised tourism in Europe began 151 years ago in 1868.

To learn more about the island, check out the Total Croatia Hvar in Page guide. 

July 10, 2019 - The 33rd Stari Grad Summer Festival is out!

Stari Grad is a destination which is developing its tourism very nicely, and in these days of overtourism elsewhere, there is a relaxed feel about the oldest town on Hvar. 

Get a flavour with this photo essay around Stari Grad a couple of weeks ago.

The programme for the 33rd Stari Grad Summer Festival is now out - and there is a nice varied selection of things going on. If I had to pick one time to come, I think it would be for the very impressive Dani u Vali (Days in the Bay) festival in September. I don't think I have seen Stari Grad shine so much. Check out the trailer below.

Want to learn more about Stari Grad? Here are 25 things to know.

July 10, 2019 - With SO many tours being offered, how to choose the best, and where to find tours that offer that little extra? Five of the best from the island of Hvar. 

1. Looking for a wine tour? Do it in style with Wine and Waves

Hvar has a fascinating wine story dating back to the arrival of the Ancient Greeks back in 384 BC, and it has several indigenous grape varieties which only grow on the island. Wine tourism is an increasingly important business, and while there are several more traditional tours, if you want one in true style, check out Wine and Waves - a speedboat tour from Hvar Town which passes the gorgeous southern coast of the island, before heading to Zlatan Otok, one of Croatia's top wineries in beautiful Sveta Nedjelja, complete with underwater tasting room. But you are not finished yet, as there are two more unique tasting experiences to choose from - wine tasting in a cave by the water, and in this stunning vineyard above. Learn more about the tour. 

2. Want to visit the Blue Cave? Why not do the Blue, the Green, inland Vis AND Palmizana in one?

The Blue Cave at Bisevo just off Vis is understandably one of the top attractions on the Adriatic, and it has become incredibly popular. Too popular, unfortunately, as tour groups now come from as far away as Split (and even further), and tourists can end up waiting a considerable amount of time in the sun. The standard tours take in the Blue and Green Caves and a swim on a beach on Vis. Not a bad day out, but you can do SO much better. 

How about the Blue Cave, the Green Gave, a fascinating tour of inland Vis with its incredible military history and tunnels, with a final stop at idyllic Palmizana on the Pakleni Islands on the way back to Hvar Town? While others wait, your tour just gets better. The secret is an early departure from Hvar Town (8am) and the best local knowledge. Few tours on the Croatian coast pack in as much fun as this in one day. Find out more. 

3. Heading to the beach? Check out six of the best by speedboat. 

With so much to explore on Hvar and with limited time on holiday, how to get the most out of your stay? Take beaches, for example. Hvar's beaches are often listed among the best in the world in various lists - and with good reason. But finding the best ones takes time and transport. What if you could be given a selection of the very best, time to sample each, then head off and discover the rest - by speedboat!

The Hvar 6 beaches tour takes in six of the very finest beaches on Hvar and the Pakleni islands, all in one day. Starting and finishing in Hvar Town, travel in style to the very finest beaches on the Hvar coast. Learn more here. 

4. Looking for a romantic spot for that special occasion? A Bohemian dinner with the best sunset on Hvar

Looking to impress a loved one?

Meet the Bohemian Romantic Sunset Dinner, the most intimate and romantic dinner setting for the 2019 season. And a setting which is faithful to those core natural Hvar values. A spectacular location on this sunniest of islands, with dinner timed to coincide with what is one of the most fabulous sunset vantage points on this incredible island. An intimate setting, with private table for just one couple (or maximum four people if you want to share the experience), set in total isolation in an olive grove whose oil bears testament to that Mediterranean diet UNESCO heritage. Learn more.

5. Arts and crafts - learn how to design your own coral jewellery

Not everyone wants to be on the beach, and there is plenty to do on the island if you are looking for something a little more stimulating. Hvar as a very lively arts and crafts scene, and one of the most interesting options to to learn how to design and make your own coral jewellery. 

Mediterranean coral has been a traditional part of the region’s historical and religious heritage for millennia. Imbued with magical powers, coral legends abound with tales of hate and spells, of miraculous curative powers and more. Croatia’s most talented coral Jewel artists live and work right here on Hvar. Their boutique-gallery within the historic centre of the Old Town is world-renowned. They have created a unique coral jewellery workshop for travellers who are looking to experience something beyond the ordinary. Imagine the sheer pleasure of being able to transform natural objects and polished coral berries into unique and beautiful pieces of jewellery! While learning how to create your own coral piece, you will also learn about different types of coral, pearls and other naturally created gems, beads and stones. Learn more. 

To learn more about the island, check out the Total Croatia Hvar in a Page guide. 

July 9, 2019 - The Croatian wine scene welcomed its first resident Master of Wine in 2014, as Jo Ahearne MW moved from London to Hvar. Since then her wines from Hvar grape varieties have been a hit nationally and internationally. Here is how you can taste them. 

It’s been just under five years since Australian-trained winemaker and Master of Wine Jo Ahearne first came to Hvar to start her eponymous winery Ahearne Vino. And what a five years it’s been - her Plavac Mali, ‘South Side’, was voted number five in Decanter magazine’s top Balkan red wines; her rosé, Rosina (named after her mother), was voted both in the top five influential Croatian wines by Saša Špiranec and expert’s tip in Decanter magazine; her amber wine, Wild Skins, awarded 90 points by Decanter magazine and voted in the top ten Croatian wines by Kult Plave Kamenice  while the same publication awarded her Pošip 93 points. 

Now ensconced in the old co-operative building in the beautiful hilltop village of Vrisnik with four wines under the Ahearne Vino banner, Jo has gone from strength to strength. Exporting Croatian wine to seven countries (with two more coming up soon), she has now prepared the winery to receive visitors this summer. So I thought it was time for the man who was responsible for introducing her to the island of Hvar to see what all the fuss was and go and enjoy one of her in-depth ‘geek tastings’. 

I’d spoken to Sarah Jane Begonja from Chasing the Donkey blog about the Villa tasting Jo had done in Zadar a few months back and laughed when she’d told me one of the guests hadn’t invited his girlfriend because he ‘didn’t realise how much fun it’d be’. I guess many people would assume a tasting held by an MW (there are more astronauts than Masters of Wine) would be all wordy and worthy with at least one test paper at the end!

I can certainly concur - Jo has a great capacity to educate people about food and wine by using simple language that normal people can relate to and understand. And if you want to talk football and West Ham United, you have come to the right winery. 

(Jo in Kyoto on her recent tour of Japan and Australia - she exports her Hvar wines to both countries)

But not to fear, the tasting is full of humour with stories from Jo’s time in Croatia and from her work around the world. We tasted wine from her barrels and tanks while she explained where the grapes came from and how everything is made. She made it seem a lot more straightforward than it probably is! We then moved outside to grab a chair, look at the amazing view of the Hvar mountains and taste through her bottled wines. 

(Jo relaxing with Split expats last summer after conducting a tasting on board)

Of course, Jo does less in-depth tastings of just her bottled wines and, in recognition that some people just don’t want to leave the pool, she brings the tasting to your villa or yacht. But for those who want to really get to grips with the island and its wines she has a four-wheel drive vineyard tour, tasting and lunch - after that you might even be inspired to start the Master of Wine journey yourself......

(Jo conducting one of her private villa tastings on Hvar)

And so to the tasting in her winery in Vrisnik, which has a lovely rustic feel, as well as divine mountain views. Vrisnik is an inland village about 3km from Jelsa and 7km from Stari Grad. An authentic and quiet Dalmatian village where you can taste great wines made from Hvar grape varieties crafted by hands from London. All fab. In order to be a bit more useful to the reader, I asked Jo to tell us a little about her wines:

(Photo credit Mirko Crncevic)

Rosina - made from Darnekuša,  a nearly extinct variety which brings elegance, freshness and complexity to rosé.  Raspberry and cherry flavours with a great structure and texture from 8 months lees contact.

Wild Skins - fermenting local varieties on skins brings more flavour and structure than would normally exist. Quince and pear with a hint of toast and honey. Fresh but textured and complex. 

South Side Plavac Mali - using only fruit from the best sites on the steep, southern hills, this wine is more elegant and perfumed than many Plavac Mali. Relying on gentle, hand extraction and ageing in refined, low key French oak barrels for 18 Months the South Side has supple tannins with raspberry, plum flavours and a hint of chocolate and the aromas of hillside herbs. 

Pošip - lemon and white peach with an underlying toasty note from an element of barrel fermentation in old French barrique. Smooth texture from 9 month sur lie and a gentle kick of spice from a little skin contact.

A really fun, educational and completely unsnobbish wine tasting experience from the only Master of Wine in Croatia. 

You can contact Jo on This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or 00385 917664515 or follow Ahearne Vino on Facebook. 

July 9, 2018 - An early start for TCN for one of the must-do things of a summer on the island of Hvar - harvesting lavender. 

There are a few constants in my annual calendar - Christmas, my birthday, and a phone call from Croatian paparazzi, Jadran Lazic, each year in early July. 

"This year's harvest will be on Tuesday, July 9, at 06:00."

Of all the things this Manchester boy did not expect to do when he moved to Dalmatia, getting up at 5am and harvesting lavender was right up there. 

Jadran first took me to his slice of paradise on the top off Hvar six years ago, and this was how his 300 lavender bushes looked ahead of the inaugural harvest in 2013. 

Fast forward six years, and see how his babies have grown. 

And so I found myself setting my alarm for 5am this morning to take part in this lovely summer ritual. Some unexpected overnight rain brought some doubts that the harvest would take place as planned, but I headed off as planned as I had heard nothing to the contrary. Jadran called about 5.30am to say that the rain had sadly delayed the harvest. 

Not to worry, it was a glorious morning and a chance to a little time alone with this most beautiful of islands. As I was not far away from his place, I decided to take in his south-facing view, with Korcula in the distance. 

A view the workers enjoy each year with the grill Jadran puts on. Divine. 

I went off to his field to check out the lavender - such a lovely, aromatic plant. 

And the bees were busy, hopping from flower to flower. 

I was hoping to catch the sound of the bees in the video above, but just looking at the lavender is enough, perhaps. 

And the drive was as magnificent as the nature. 

The view north to the island of Brac, with the small island of Zecevo in the foreground. 

A lovely view of Hvar's UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Stari Grad Plain, with the town of Stari Grad to its left on the coast, the village of Vrbanj in front of it. 

And a descent to the 2,000-year-old village of Pitve, the oldest village on Hvar. 

So no harvesting lavender today, but in case you are wondering what it is like, here is a great video of last year's harvest, with footage by Jadran Lazic and (including the drone) Jaksa Kuzmicic, edited by Miranda Milicic Bradbury. 

If you have never been on the top of the island, it truly is magical. The road is not asphalt, but if you go slowly, you will be fine with a regular car. The best road in and out is through the village of Humac, 6km east of Jelsa. Turn right as you enter the village and you will be on the toad which is on top of the spine of Hvar. Literally on top of paradise. 

To learn more about the island of Hvar, check out the Total Croatia Hvar in a Page guide. 

July 8, 2019 - A much-loved restaurant, which has done much to raise the culinary scene in Jelsa on Hvar, turns 10. Congratulations, Me and mrs Jones!

Just over ten years ago, my wife told me that we were invited to a new restaurant opening in Jelsa. Her cousin, Josipa, had decided to take the plunge and open her first restaurant with husband Amadeus. 

The name - Me and mrs Jones. 

(Photo credit for first three photos - Secret Dalmatia)

I raised my eyebrows. This was a little unusual for a town not famed for diverting from the traditional fare.

It was quite a location, on the Jelsa waterfront. And quite a party, as friends, family and seemingly everyone else in Jelsa that night descended upon the new restaurant to enjoy the very generous free opening. 

While the name of the restaurant was somewhat unusual (taken from the song of the same name, the song which was playing the first time the couple met), the decor was something else. Bold, to be sure - here was a restaurant which was going to push the traditional boundaries on several levels. 

"Great food and lovely place," commented one expat that night as he tucked into another plate, "but they will never be this full again."

He was wrong. 

Word spread about a very friendly restaurant in Jelsa which was aiming to raise the bar. and people started to hear about it in Hvar Town. And they got in the car and came to investigate. With the wide choice of restaurants in Hvar Town, there are not many which can get diners to drive 30 minutes out of town. But this was one. 

Word spread. The team from Secret Dalmatia, Croatia's leading luxury boutique tourism agency, came to pay a visit and left VERY impressed. You can read the 2011 Secret Dalmatia blog here. 

The restaurant moved across the water to the other side of the harbour to its current spot, arguably the best location in all Jelsa. A great place for a meal, but also for a glass of wine, watching the laganini pace of life in Jelsa harbour go by. 

It quickly became a favourite restaurant for many in its new location, and especially so for sailors who could moor up right in front of the new Me and mrs Jones. 

I am as useless at taking photos as the owners are at posting them on Facebook, so here is a shoulder season view, before the boats come into the harbour. Idyllic. 

Although she is family and perhaps I have to say nice things, cousin Josipa is genuinely one of the warmest hostesses in the Croatian culinary scene. I was trying to find the right phrase to describe Me and mrs Jones a few years ago, when a reporter from Croatian National Television summed it up perfectly. We had been filming at the restaurant for some tourism programme, and she so enjoyed her first visit that she went back every day until she left:

"Everything in this restaurant is done out of love."

And it is. 

Right down to their signature presentation of their food. 

There is another aspect to Me and mrs Jones that tourists are not normally aware of - the small events they hold during the winter season when almost all other restaurants are closed. Their Valentine's Day dinner has restaurant owners from Hvar Town driving their loved ones to Jelsa, and celebrations such as International Women's Day on March 8 are welcome additions to a quiet winter life. 

And Me and mrs Jones is one of the few places where you can try a rare Hvar speciality (you need to order at least two days in advance) - 'puh' or edible dormouse, a speciality which is eaten only in three places in Croatia - Dol on Hvar, Dol on Brac, and Gorski Kotar. 

The attention to detail and personal service are often mentioned by guests - and how many restaurants would give you this kind of support after your team had just been relegated from the Premier League?

We had dinner last night, and Amadeus came over to say hi and showed me a poster - it was the opening poster from that inaugural night over 10 years ago - the date, May 6, 2009.

"I found it while I was going through things. It seems we are ten years old and didn't notice."

So, we may be a couple of months late, but Happy Birthday, Me and mrs Jones, and a huge thank you for your incredible contribution to Jelsa over the last decade. Thanks for the memories and may you continue to prosper. 

You can follow Me and mrs Jones on Facebook.