July 25, 2019 - It is 8 years since Anthony Bourdain told the world about Croatia's 'world-class food, world-class cheese, world-class wine.' A case study of Hvar on how to deliver the gourmet experience to food and wine tourists. 

Tourism is about content, experiences and stories. Croatia has all three in abundance, and yet few tourists are aware of them. I have been very critical of the Kings of Accidental Tourism over the years, never more so than now with my interview in Index a few days ago read by 100,000 people (English version here). 

I have also been very critical over the years of my beloved adopted hometown of Jelsa and its lack of tourism strategy. Going back to Jelsa this summer made me truly sad to see just how bad things had got in terms of not just the lack of tourists, but the quality of the tourists. Peak season half-board packages for a family of three for under 500 euro total is not going to fill the restaurants of the town. As Confucius once wisely said: 21 Ukranian half-board overnight stays is a better gift to the Temple of Record Overnight Stays than 7 Norwegian nights in private accommodation and Jelsa's bars and restaurants, so the Kings of Accidental Tourism will be able to display their beloved statistics.

But Confucius also concluded that 21 half-board Ukranian overnights for less than 500 euro bring less revenue than 7 Norwegian overnights. Actually, probably less than 2 Norwegian overnights. Workers in the hotels speak of a sharp rise in Ukrainians on packages (welcome, and enjoy your great value stay), and the restaurant owners are asking where are the Norwegians this year. It will be interesting to look at the numbers from the Kings award-winning, transparent, real-time reporting system eVisitor when they finally allow us to see the numbers. 

I have never believed in criticising something for the sake of criticising. It achieves nothing apart from website clicks and more negativity. I have come to learn that constructive criticism is not a concept which is widely accepted in Croatia, but it is a concept that Croatia badly needs on that long journey to a better future. 

Just as I have suggested a concrete solution to reset Croatian tourism away from this insanity of zero-content sun and sea apartmentizacija tourism at four-star prices (Branding Croatia: 5 Gifts and Trends to Focus On), so too I will do a blueprint for one sector of tourism today. And then tomorrow I will suggest a blueprint how Jelsa can improve its two Christmas star strategy in time for next season. Both suggestions cost almost nothing, for all the content is already there. We are just not telling anyone about what we have. 

Let's go back to the beginning - content, experiences and stories. When Anthony Bourdain discovered Croatia in 2011, he was blown away with the unique experiences he encountered. Croatia's 130 indigenous varieties, fresh and outstanding regional cuisines served in spectacular authentic experiences were beautifully presented to the world by Bourdain in his show 'No Reservations' on The Travel Show. 

So where is the gourmet tourism dividend of the Bourdain Effect? Similar to the World Cup dividend, there is none, because the Kings did almost absolutely nothing to take advantage. So today, I will have an attempt to do just that, and to show using only existing resources how Hvar can become a fascinating and unique food and wine experience that can attract high-spending foodies out of the peak season and away from the overtourism pressure points from next year. 

I have pitched the idea below to a couple of foodie friends, including one who runs a boutique gourmet tourism business, and they were both very encouraging. So encouraging, in fact, that I have agreed to work with the agency to turn these ideas into a selection of tours for the 2020 season. If the Kings want to continue to worship at the Temple of Record Overnights, there will be more space for serious businesses who want to do serious tourism. The idea is based solely on existing resources, and so will cost very little, but additionally I have one or two ideas where investment is required if there is a budget.  

How to Make the Island of Hvar a Top Food and Wine Destination without Investing Too Much

I have never lived in a place which was as rich as Hvar in terms of natural beauty, resources, history, tradition as Hvar. It has the most UNESCO heritage of any island in the world, the oldest public theatre in Europe, is the birthplace of organised tourism in Europe, the sunniest island in Europe, and its fantastic indigenous wines exported as far away as Japan, Australia and California. The divertisy of its terroirs, the richness of its various herbs and spices, coupled with traditional and innovative ways of using them in gastronomy make it a fascinating foodie experience. 

Step 1 - Branding. Tell the world what we have.

Welcome to Jelsa, the Capital of Dalmatian wine. While places like Peljesac may claim to be the regional capital of Dalmatian wine, is there a single town in Dalmatia which can claim both the history and outstanding current producers than Jelsa? Andro Tomic, Ivo Dubokovic and Teo Huljic are in the town, Ivo Caric, Antun Plancic, Tonci Marjan, Zlatan Otok, PZ Svirce are just outside. 

As is Jo Ahearne, Master of Wine, the first MW to make wine in Croatia with a winning combination of Hvar Grapes, London Hands. Wines which are now appreciated in restaurants in Tokyo, Kyoto and Sydney, to name but three. Her Rosina featured in a recent edition of Decanter magazine. Learn more about the wines of Jo Ahearne MW and how to book a tasting here. 

Use her services! Her expertise in developing wine tourism and her name in promoting Hvar wine. 

The only other MW doing anything with wine in Croatia is also doing it in Jelsa. Ivan Barbic MW helps to produce Ivo Dubokovic's coveted top red, Medvid. 

Welcome to Jelsa, the capital of Dalmatian wine!

And then to strengthen the brand of Jelsa as the wine capital, resurrect this idea which ALMOST happened in 2013 - an exchange programme with a Californian university to bring Californian students to get work experience on Hvar's vineyards. How much are they going to fall in love with Jelsa and tell their friends back home? 

Step 2 - Branding. Tell the world what we have

As mentioned above, Hvar has the most UNESCO heritage of any island in the world, so let's tell people about that! And let's do it in one spectacular way, by showcasing ALL six heritages at the same time, with a food and wine feast in the most spectacular setting. 

Location, the Stari Grad Plain - UNESCO World Heritage Site

Dinner provided by intangible UNESCO heritages the Mediterranean Diet (Hvar is one of 9 islands on the Med, Brac the only other Croatian one), tables decorated by the agave lace of Hvar's Benedictine Nuns, music consisting of Dalmatian klapa. Over an aperitif before dinner, you can inspect some of the Suhozid (dry stone walls) and then after the meal take in the incredible Za Krizen (Behind the Cross) procession, which has taken place for 500 years, as 6 simultaneous processions follow a barefoot cross-bearer through the night over a 22km circular route. Learn more about the whole tradition through the story of one cross-bearer in the video below. It truly is one of the best times to be on Hvar. 

One unique tourism experience with limited availability once a year, the Thursday before Easter. Invite international journalists if you want (or not - this is the free section of my idea, but it fits well) and let the world know. 

Welcome to Hvar, Dalmatia's Wine Capital with UNESCO Mediterranean Diet!

We haven't spent any money yet. 

Step 3 - Make the concept of Hvar Wine Time Traveller a reality.

A few years ago when I was briefly helping the Hvar Wine Association with some promotion, President Ivana Krstulovic Caric told me about a fantastic idea she had had to promote the island through its heritage. The concept was called Hvar WIne Time Traveller, and it took tourists on a journey from the arrival of the Ancient Greeks to the modern day through the island's wines, as different winemakers were connected to different periods. I wrote about Hvar Wine Time Traveller six years ago for Canadian news portal Digital Journal - you can see the idea fleshed out here.  

This, I think, is a great story which the right agency (and I am talking to the right agency) can package Hvar Wine Time Traveller into a 7-day tour of the island with food and wine experiences and visits to the attractions which help to tell the story. The periods break down into the following:

Greeks - Stari Grad Plain and their winemakers. 

Romans - Stari Grad Plain (Roman additions), villa rusticae, including the one by the Roman mud bath near Vlaka on Sveti Klement, which also has the lowest vineyard in Croatia at just 1 metre above sea level. This was operated until very recently by the Emperor himself, Andro Tomic. And for the ultimate Roman hedonistic experience, head to his Romanesque basement in Jelsa, resplendent in his and her togas for the ultimate Roman wine tasting. 

Matej Ivanic - 1514. The period of the Great Rebellion on Hvar, led by local man Matej Ivanic, who lived in both Vrbanj and Vrboska. His legacy lives on through wine in the form of Miki Bratanic, whose excellent book Konoba captures the essence of this most traditional Dalmatian room. But not as much as the konoba he has restored in Vrbanj, which is now under the protection of the Ministry of Culture. As authentic a tasting experience as you can get, especially with Miki's rich knowledge of the traditions of Dalmatia.  This is what a 2013 visit looked like. 

Phylloxera and the Great Emigration - Hvar used to have 5,700 hectares of vines under cultivation. These days it has less than 300. This is partially due to punitive taxes compared to other parts of the Austro Hungarian Empire, but mostly due to the devastating phylloxera which destroyed most of the vines in Dalmatia. Not all though, because as you would expect from the Capital of Dalmatia Wine, here you can find the oldest surviving Plavac Mali vineyard in the world, with each vine tagged, as you can see above.

The phylloxera period would also include a visit to the church built in Iva Dolac in a bid to stave off the impending disaster through prayer. A wonderful base to explore the legendary Ivan Dolac steep slopes before heading for an underwater tasting in the cellars of Zlatan Otok. 

Fast forward to the socialist era, and where better to capture that at the PZ Svirce Cooperative, whose Ivan Dolac Barrique was not only the first certified organic Plavac Mali in the world, but has been a multiple winner of best organic wine at Biofach Mundus Vini in Germany. 

And then we come to the present era of the small modern winemaker. There are some REAL characters, and they all have their own styles and philosophies, which make for a really diverse set of tasting experiences. 

In addition to ones already mentioned, these include the candlelit konoba tasting's of Croatia's best garage winemaker, Ivo Dubokovic; the slow food tasting with Teo Huljic including forgotten Hvar varieties that even other Hvar winemakers have never heard of; the canalside tasting of Ivo Caric, whose wine is served in a 3-star Michelin star restaurant in Holland; Antun Plancic in Vrbanj, the first private winemaker to take Belgrade by storm way back in 1986. The list goes on. There is a konoba tasting in a cave only accessible speedboat, another in the sloping vineyards of the south side than literally fall into the Adriatic. So many stories, so many experiences. One gourmet island. 

And in case you thought that all the winemakers were small, meet the largest vineyard on a Mediterranean island, some 4.5km long. This photo is old and it looks a lot different now. 

And let's not forget the Hvar winemaking genes which did emigrate. Would there be interest from Kiwi tourists visiting the village of Zastrazisce, the village where the family of Sir George Fistonic hailed from? 

I know you must be hungry and we will come to the food shortly, but in the meantime:

Welcome to Hvar Wine Time Traveller, a 2,400-Year Journey through the Capital of Dalmatian Wine with UNESCO Mediterranean Diet!

Step 4 - Embrace your neighbours as an extension of your tourism, not as competition.

Many years ago, a tourist went to the Jelsa Tourist Office and said he was thinking of going to Stari Grad the next day, and could he have some information about what there was to see. The reply was quick - there is a bus timetable here, and when you get to Stari Grad, the Stari Grad Tourist Board will be able to tell you all about their offer. It is symbolic of so much about Croatian tourism for me - this territorial obsession of not telling tourists what they can experience outside the local tourist board boundaries.  

Including the neighbours only adds to the offer of the Dalmatian wine capital. A day trip to Bol is a must to try the fantastic Stina wines, but linger a little longer on Brac and visit the Senjkovic winery too, while foodies who want to try something authentic and like a little offal - learn more about the delicacy of vitalac.  

Would there be any interest in the capital of Dalmatian wine offering a food and wine tour from Jelsa called "The Indigenous Island Grapes of Dalmatia." Day trips to Vis for Vugava and Viska Pogaca; Solta for Dobricic and its famous honey and olive oil; Korcula (through the south side of the island) for its Grk and Posip and list of local specialities}; and although not an island, a visit to the home of the original Zinfandel, Kastela, where the traditional cuttlefish and fava beans accompany many a bottle of Tribidrag. 

Step 5 - Celebrate individuals and tell their stories.

Among the many wonderful people I have met on Hvar, among them are a Polish woman who was the first to make craft beer on a Croatian island, a famous English cocktail maker producing his own gin, a Croatian lady making perfume from local Hvar products, and one bar who perfected the first ever cockatil made from 100% Hvar products; the Scedro beekeeper whose rosemary honey was named third best in the world in Buenos Aires at the 2011 Apimondia. 

Fascinating characters, unique stories. Celebrate them and include them in the gourmet tourism strategy.

And we haven't spent any money yet. 

Step 6 - Examine how your festivals can help the brand

I am not sure what happened to it, but 6 years ago there was a great project called Wildflower Europe, where nature in the community was celebrated by five communities in Slovenia, Scotland, Romania, Bulgaria, and Stari Grad. The first year included a week-long festival of events, including the lavender and honey festivals, workshops and special 100-kuna 3-course menus in Stari Grad's restaurants featuring the island's herbs. It was wonderful. 

Hvar currently has the following festivals each year - lavender, honey, squid fishing, big game fishing, olive oil, immortelle harvesting workshop. It has the grape, lavender and olive harvests. It has wild boar hunting. Easy to arrange are octopus fishing and night fishing. People go crazy for wild asparagus foraging. Play with all these and make them fit into the brand. 

And there is a dormouse festival. Hvar is one of only three places in Croatia where dormice are eaten, and the village of Dol has the annual Puhijada festival. Only a few restaurants serve puh, and you normally have to reserve 48 hours in advance - Me and mrs jones in Jelsa is one. Just one of several authentic and original foodie experiences you can't find elsewhere. Another is with winemaker Teo Hulijic and his slow food and wine pairing. Sea urchin caviar and the three-island burger (Hvar boar, Brac lamb and Pag cheese) were particular highlights. 

This is what a dormouse festival looks like in the video above. 

Paprenjak, a traditional honey biscuit has been made to the same recipe on Hvar for 800 years on Hvar, originally by wives for their sailor husbands on the long journeys at sea.  It might be fun to learn how to make it for yourself, as would the workshops making chocolate from Hvar ingredients. Cooking classes have SO much potential, and the agencies who do them are very satisfied with the results. Herbal walks through Hvar's aromatic fields learning about the various plants and flowers, then picking the herbs required to help you cook lunch. 

So much content that I will have to stop soon for fear of boring you. 

And we haven't spent any money yet. 

Perhaps a visit to the oldest olive tree (I believe) in all Croatia, dating back 2,500 years - and while we are on the olive theme, when not get your hands on some of the best olive oil in the world? Don't take my word for it - see below?

Learn more about the amazing Hvar Gourmet olive oil here and below. I am not sure if there are still more trees to be adopted, but it is a divine spot and would strengthen your ties to the Dalmatian wine capital with UNESCO Mediterranean Diet. 

And of course you have the restaurants themselves who produce authentic Dalmatian dishes. There is no more space to discuss now, but I wanted to point out one meal I had on Hvar this summer which makes the restaurant a perfect partner for gourmet tourism - embracing the traditions of the island (wild boar and lavender gnocchi with ingredients all from Hvar), the needs of the modern traveller (the vegan burger was just one of many vegan and gluten-free dishes), and the totally innovative (gin and tonic tuna - it was fantastic). Meet Lucullus, the best meal of the year so far for me.  

Enough!

Welcome to my brief introduction to Hvar, the Dalmatian Wine Capital with UNESCO Mediterranean Diet. When are you coming to visit?

Oops, I almost forgot. All the above costs almost nothing. Two things I would add if there was a budget - a proper wine road. While we wait, I created a free virtual wine road above - MW Jo has moved since I did, and you can now find her in Vrisnik.

And build a wine museum in the Dalmatian wine capital, in a place close to the centre where tourists on the boats can visit and taste and learn of both the history and all the indigenous varieties. Include an exhibition on Sir George Fistonich to strengthen the Jelsa wine capital brand. 

Lots of great content, especially for people looking for something to do on those rainy days. 

All this has been swilling around in my head for a few days now. Let me know what you think!

If you are interested in working with me to develop this theme, or are another destination in Croatia looking for a foreign eye (not for free though) to help develop your concept, drop me a line at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. 

Tomorrow, I will publish my suggestions of how to improve Jelsa tourism for next season - the wine is only one small part of the plan. 

The Zagreb Stock Exchange reported today that Helios Faros, a hotel company from Stari Grad on Hvar was allowed to leave the receivership status it had, as Valamar Riviera and PBZ Croatia Osiguranje will invest 650 million kuna into the reconstruction of the company's hotels.

After that investment, Valamar now owns 23,61% of the stocks of the Helios Faros company, and PBZ Croatia Osiguranje owns 70,83%. At the same time, the capital stock of the company has been increased to 96,56 million kuna. During the receivership process, all creditors were paid, which allowed the Commercial court in Split to finish the receivership, Goran Rihelj reports for hrturizam.hr.

Through the partnership between PBZ Croatia Osiguranje and Valamar, who will manage the hotels and other facilities owned by Helios Faros, a new phase of tourism in Stari Grad on the island of Hvar will start. For decades now, the company has been the leader of Stari Grad's tourism, and it has been in receivership since February 2016.

There are currently 1,465 beds in the company's two- and three-star hotels Arkada and Lavanda (both located in the so-called Helios neighbourhood on the northern side of Stari Grad bay) and the Jurjevac camp.

The proposal of a takeover by PBZ Croatia Osiguranje and Valamar Riviera detailed the five-year plan of investment into the tourist properties, worth 650 million kuna.

Two resorts will be completely reconstructed and newly built, of a high category, with a capacity of around 700 units. That will reposition the portfolio of the company towards the premium sector, which will add to the attractiveness and recognisability of Stari Grad as a destination. According to this plan, after the reconstruction of the hotels Akrada and Lavanda, the company will employ 500 workers.

A Cabaret Show and some drops of excellent wines thrilled Stari Grad on Hvar on Thursday evening, when the wine and stage spectacle was held in the amazing atmosphere of the open-air theatre. The performance was dubbed the "pocket-sized musical", and it has attracted many inhabitants of Stari Grad and their guests, so the theatre was completely full.

Those who managed to find a seat for themselves enjoyed an hour and a half performance of Cabaret à la Carte, partnered by the wines and hard liqueur by Dalmacijavino. The people attending confirmed that the evening was a success, that the musical performance was wonderful, as were the good wines that accompanied it.

The event was organised partially to be a promotion of R'kaciteli, a new addition to the wines made by Dalmacijavino, a fresh, summery white wine, originating from Georgia, that has been cultivated near Drniš since the eighties, since it's quite sweet and works well when blended with Dalmatian varieties. This is the first time the variety has been produced in Croatia as a monovarietal wine, and the first impressions of it seem to be exceptional.

The local media said that the event was a great addition to the already excellent tourist-oriented programs, and many people have shown the desire to see a reprise in the future. Andrea Previšić from Dalmacijavino's marketing said that they wanted to give to the wine-lovers an evening to relax and enjoy the moment. The reactions are great, as are the compliments to the wines, and that is something that makes Dalmacijavino happy. The Wine & Jazz festival starts soon on Hvar and Brač and Dalmacijavino wines will be a part of that event too, so she invited music and wine lovers not to miss that event!

The Wine and Jazz starts on July 22nd in Stari Grad, Hvar, Jelsa and Bol on Brač, as a unique event on the Croatian coast, bringing together wine and food with the great music.

Eight days of the program will be filled with some of the world's top jazz musicians, as well as numerous lectures, exhibitions, movie screenings, presentations and wine tastings by some of the best winemakers from the region. The music will be provided by Cubismo, Jazzoleptic with their amazing lead singer Nikola Marjanović, Mihael Parušev trio with singers Jana Fabijanić and Habiba Menaz'Dear, Gadjo Manuche gypsy jazz band, and deep house/jazz duo by Jan Kinčl and Regis Kattie.

For more stories on Hvar, go to our destination page: Total Hvar

July 21, 2019 - A new tour to meet the needs of the Instagram generation - meet the Hvar Selfie Tour. What do we think?

Back in 1989, as a very naive 19-year-old, I bought a one-way ticket to Caracas to discover South America and 'find myself.' South America was incredible, although I am still searching for me. 

I didn't take a camera. 

I have SO many memories of that trip etched in my mind, as though they happened yesterday. Sights, sounds, smells. Walking an old 85-km Inca Trail in Bolivia with a Swiss guy was three of the best days I ever had on the road. Incredible. 

But I have no photos, apart from those in my head. And there, there are many. 

Times change, and so do tourism habits. I know I am getting old and cranky, and apologies for that, but it seems to me that these days getting the perfect picture to put on Instagram is way more important than taking away a memory which will live in your head forever. 

It is not a criticism, just the reality of the changing world we live in. Google is only 20 years old, and I spent 30 years in a world without, while this is all my kids have ever known. I never use Instagram, but again, it is all my kids have ever known. 

So what to do if you are in tourism? Focus on the theme of the Mediterranean as It Once Was, or embrace the change?

Meet the Hvar Selfie Tour. Now with 16 catamarans a day from Split to Hvar Town, you can tick Hvar off your bucket list. Have your picture taken in all the best places in 2 hours and then head back to Split. This is also good for the numbers, as it will make passenger numbers on the catamarans higher.

It even comes with a clever hashtag #forthegram (For is the local dialect version of Hvar).

Here is what is on offer. 

Private photo-themed tour with a driver-guide to the most beautiful spots of the island, for the perfect Instagram, Facebook or family album photos.

Free booking.Tour price: €35 / $39 - 4 People max.Customer protection: Book for free and pay at the end of the tour

Discover the island's highlights.

Enjoy unforgettable views and lavender fields.

Explore the tiny old villages famous for their lavender, rosemary and olive oils!

Capture impressive photographs!

Choose from a variety of departure times. Custom departure times are also available.

Round-trip pickup and drop-off from wherever you want.

What's Included: 

Pickup from your location and drop-off wherever you want.2 hours long private tour

Transport by private vehicle

Departure Point: Any Hvar address ( private or Hotel )Return Details: Any Hvar address ( private or Hotel )

What To Expect:

Make the most of your time on Hvar and build up an album of selfies to boot with this private photo-stop driving tour.

Air-conditioned vehicle, seating up to four people, picks your selected group of family and friends up. Your driver-guide takes you to the most beautiful spots of the island, viewpoints, lavender fields, beaches and old villages where you can admire the views, and take perfect Instagram, Facebook or family album photos.

In addition, your driver will stop at safe and legal points wherever you like and you can take as many photos as you wish before hopping back into your private vehicle. With this tour, you don’t need to worry about maps, directions, travel guides or climbing taxi fares.

July 20, 2019 - The Croatian tourism industry is ever more dependent on foreign workers. So too, it seems, is the Croatian Catholic Church on Hvar. 

Croatia's demographic crisis continues, and it is being keenly felt on the Adriatic coast, where many of the traditional seasonal workers have taken advantage of the freedom of movement with EU entry and found permanent jobs in countries such as Ireland and Germany. 

So how to fill the gap? 

Bringing in cheaper foreign labour from places such as the Philippines is one suggestion that has been put forward. The issue of importing foreign workers into Croatia is a very tricky one, for a number of reasons. Firstly, there are those who will say the jobs should be for Croatians, and Croatian tourism businesses should pay a fair wage. In both cases, I agree 100% with the sentiment, but the salaries are not high enough, contracts long enough, or conditions good enough for them to stay. And so there is a need to find foreign workers or totally rethink the whole tourism approach. 

The other reason this topic is sensitive is cultural. Croatians have fought hard to protect their identity and to establish their independent state, and they are understandably protective of their heritage and Croatian-ness. Which I complete support. I am sometimes a little envious of the national pride one sees on display here, especially when I have spent most of my career as an aid worker apologising to the people for the actions of my fellow countrymen in previous generations. 

I come from a very multi-cultural country (albeit with less and less culture these days) - England. Having immigrants and people descended from immigrants is the only way we could win the recent cricket World Cup. That diversity is in my genes in a way that it isn't with many Croatians, whose roots are much more homogenous. All good. 

My mother was born and grew up in rural Ireland. She told me of the time she saw a black person for the first time, as a 16-year-old on the streets of Dublin. She stared. Everyone stared. 

There are many aspects - not all - of Croatia today which are similar to the Ireland of 60 years ago. And if you talk to the 10,000 plus Croatian who now call Ireland home, I think you will hear that a little diversity never hurt anyone. 

But my inbox is fruity enough without me going deeper into the topic - and I am fully aware of how well received my thoughts on the subject would be as a (insert abusive adjectives of your choice) Brit. 

So instead, I want to tell you about a REALLY lovely story of Croatia resorting to foreign help to solve a labour shortage. 

And the shortage was in the Croatian Catholic Church, which did not have enough native priests for their parishes on Hvar. 

And that is how Don Robert Bartoszek came to be the first Polish priest on Hvar. And not only a very popular priest, but one who is also enhancing Hvar's tourism offer by also holding masses in Polish for Polish tourists.

He has also made an immense contribution to his local community. Rather than me butcher her words, here is Vivian Grisogono with the whole story on her Eco Hvar website. 

July 19, 2019 - What actually happens at a lavender harvest? A step by step guide of one of the finest and most aromatic parts of Dalmatian culture. 

There is a lot written about 'authentic tourism experiences.' Authentic is a buzzword that is cast around as a means of indicating something quality, local and traditional. Most have very little to do with authenticity, and as Croatia goes down its insane route of numbers, numbers, numbers, apartments, apartments, apartments, the very thing that makes Dalmatia so special is being lost - perhaps forever. 

But there are exceptions, thankfully, and arguably the most authentic tourist experience I have ever had - in any country - took place recently on the top of Hvar for this, my seventh year. 

When not busy snapping the likes of David Bowie, or bringing Jodie Foster to visit Hvar from his home in L.A., celebrity photographer Jadran Lazic can be found on top of the island in his beloved fields of lavender. Jadran kindly invited me to his first ever harvest back in 2013, as just three of us harvested the small bushes for the first time. Since then, his lavender has grown majestically, and it has been part of my annual calendar since then to rise at 04:30 and join him for this most beautiful and authentic experiences. 

For those who want to learn what a truly authentic experience is like, I decided to document the whole process this year. 

With about 20 pickers these days, a few more sickles were required that that first year. No hammers, so anyone who thinks that harvesting lavender is a Communist conspiracy - relax. 

And, as you can see from the lead photo, the pickers had company on their sickles.  This is golden Bogomoljka, or praying mantis. Bogomoljka is also the term used for a girl from the eastern Hvar village of Bogomolje. And, I was told yesterday, apparently also for a woman who goes to church frequently. I am not sure which is the most dangerous. 

And so to the fields. I will concede that the chilled Lasko while I worked was not so authentic, but every fat pink keyboard warrior has his price. 

The team was made up of Jadran's friends and family, including three generations of the women in his life - Mum (aged 87), wife and daughter. 

There were five kids aged 10 to 13, getting a chance to experience a tradition of their grandparents. One had even come from Russia. 

The Mediterranean as It Once Was. Absolutely blissful. 

Time for me to hand over to the experts. Here is Jadran introducing his field and demonstrating how to harvest lavender. 

The undoubted star of the lavender harvest is Jurica from Vrisknik. Not only was he the best at harvesting, but his fresh lamb was the perfect reward after a couple of hours in the field. In the video above, Jurica explains how his lavender picking career started at the age of nine.  

And then, spontaneously, the music started. Workers in the field, singing their traditional Dalmatian tunes. Mesmerising.  

Harvesting lavender is thirsty work, and it is thankfully a Zuja-free zone - we are talking about authenticity after all...  

Jurica and Dinko - stars in the field - turned their attention to feeding the weary workers. We need more sea salt, Jadran!

And after the simple but delicious meal of lamb, salad and bread, time for some wine and song to accompany the setting sun (this year's harvest was done in the early evening for the first time). And what better tune than "Eyes the Colour of Lavender." 

Our work was done, but Jadran had more the next day, taking the lavender bags to be distilled into oil in nearby Humac. I have never seen him work so hard...

And the results of our labour, just over four litres this year.  

It is done as a labour of love, and I did smile when this Split boy tells me that every night in L.A. he puts a couple of drops of lavender oil on his pillow, and he sleeps like a baby dreaming of his beloved Dalmatia. 

This is how the fields of Hvar looked as recently as 1985. Imagine what an authentic tourist experience it could be if it looked like that again.

Our lavender harvest was not quite so authentic, however, for there were no donkeys involved. Take a look at this incredible 1970 video of the lavender harvest as it once was

And could be again. 

July 18, 2019 - Stari Grad on Hvar is providing a great summer programme on a limited budget. Next up cabaret and a jazz and wine festival. 

One destination which is moving very much in the right direction these days is Stari Grad on Hvar. An extended riva to develop its nautical credentials, new 4-star owners of its troubled 2-star hotels, and two planned 5-star hotels, one of which will open next year. 

But more impressive is what is happening in the town itself. The historic old streets of the oldest town of Hvar, dating back 2,400 years, are among the most authentic and best preserved in Croatia. No cheap Chinese souvenirs here (or very few), the narrow warren of streets offer stores offering authentic local products, art galleries and bags of authentic charm. Along with Korcula Town, it is the best place I have visited this summer. Here was my stroll around the town a few weeks ago.

There is a new dynamism in the tourist board and tourist direction. After many months without a director, a new one has been installed, and his vision of the town is already paying dividends. There are several new festivals these summer, including one for honey and the first international Pelinkovac festival.

The diverse programme is set to continue tonight with an evening of cabaret at the summer cinema, as Stari Grad then eases itself as the main host of what looks like a fantastic event - and one being held also in Hvar Town, Jelsa and Bol on the island of Brad - the Jazz and Wine Festival. 

I have very fond memories of wine tasting evenings with music on the Stari Grad square of Skor - authentic Dalmatia at its finest. 

The festival will be held in Stari Grad on July 20-24, then Hvar Town, Jelsa and Bol. You can see the full programme (in Croatian - Google Translate is your friend) here. And get a flavour of the atmosphere from the trailer below. Follow the official Facebook page here. 

Want to learn more about Stari Grad? Here are 25 things to know. 

July 16, 2019 - Klapa Samoana, the Dalmatian sensations from the Pacific, entertained about 300 guests at Hvarcienda, on the top of Croatia's premier island. It was quite a show.  

So authentic, and yet so authentic. 

Unique and unforgettable for sure, as two outstanding products met with no neighbours to disturb for an evening of music, food, wine, nature, dancing and fun. 

And boy - how did the main stars perform. 

The concept of a Dalmatian klapa group from the Pacific island of Samoa might sound pretty far out, but Klapa Samoana won the hears of Croatians all over the globe last year during the World Cup, as their klapa singing went viral. 

If you don't know the story, it all started with a Croatian music teacher in Auckland and a school trip to Croatia in 2008. Rather than repeat the story for those who know it, you can learn more in the video below. 

A great story. And so when I heard that they would be performing on Hvar - more specifically at Hacienda on the very top of the island - I knew that we had to go. Hvarcienda is a new concept for 2019, an organic oasis of gorgeousness offering 'food with views'. Although I hadn't tried the food yet, if it was anything like the views... The ultimate chill zone, with literally no neighbours for miles, Hvarcienda hosts a range of cool events, from yoga to immortelle harvesting workshops. It was time to pay a first visit. 

We weren't the only ones who were excited. Here are the Klapa Samoana founding brothers on top of Hvar the day before the concert. 

We arrived about 20:00, just in time for sunset.  

A truly divine part of the planet.  

And, for the hikers, some pointers on the important mountain peaks in the world, with Hvar's very own peak of Sv. Nikola looking achievable at 621m above sea level, or 'very close'. 

The recently harvested field of immortelle. It must look glorious in yellow.  

A natural and safe paradise for all the family. So much space, so much nature, so much The Mediterranean as It Once Was.  

When we arrived, the guys were playing balote *see lead photo), the latest incursion into Dalmatian culture since their World Cup success.  The main man, Christian, was very approachable and was impressed that my brother-in-law had visited Samoa - twice! He had never heard of a Croatian who had been to his country twice. 

A quick change from the casual balote t-shirt and shorts, and the boys were ready for action. 

Samoa meets Dalmatia. Just stunning. There were a LOT more people than expected, and a truly memorable performance. I had expected Klapa Samoana to have a range of songs they had learned and just to sing those, but it quickly became apparent that the initial World Cup success had started something much bigger. Their knowledge of Croatian culture (and language) was impressive, as was their understanding of the regions of Croatia. They had a song for each, asking if there was anyone from Istria, Zagorje, Slavonia - then producing a song for each. 

Much more than a concert, it was an evening of song and a narrative of the developing love affair of Samoans for Croatia. 

And all the while, Hvarcienda was providing culinary support.  

The menu was small but delicious and healthy.  

But that was not the end of the evening, for this was a sunset to sunrise party. With no neighbours to disturb, Hvarcienda guests were free to express themselves and party. Klapa Samoana gave way to the tunes from DJ Occko, and after the lively Samoan warmup, the crowd was ready to dance. 

I disappeared with Christian to his room to record an interview, which I had planned to add to this article. But he was SO interesting and covered so many topics, one of which could be really interesting for Croatian tourism, that I will cover that in a separate article in a couple of days. 

An amazing night. High-quality Croatian tourism, with content, content, content. 

You can follow the Klapa Samona story on Facebook.

Hvarcienda is a true hidden gem. Here is how to find it.  

To learn more about the island, check out the Total Croatia Hvar in a Page guide. 

As Morski writes on the 14th of July, 2019, the project for the construction of the water-infrastructure infrastructure of the agglomeration Jelsa-Vrboska and Stari Grad on the island of Hvar finally got the green light, and an impressive 474 million kuna in funding has been secured for the all of the necessary works.

Most of the funds have been secured from European Union funding. Of this amount, 270 million kuna will go to projects in the Municipality of Jelsa on Hvar, according to the Mayor of that municipality, Nikša Peronja.

Jelsa was visited by Prime Minister Andrej Plenković, where he met with Mayor Nikša Peronja, and also attended the signing of the grant agreement and the co-financing agreement for the aforementioned project, worth 474 million kuna.

Prime Minister Andrej Plenković congratulated everyone who contributed to the quality of this project, saying that it would enable a much higher quality of life for all the inhabitants of the central part of the island of Hvar, but also for the many visitors and tourists coming to this island. He stressed that this is an added value of Croatia's membership of the European Union and that such funds from Croatia, from both local and regional self-government units, could not have achieved this.

''This [cash] injection which is a result of our membership in the European Union will now be more clearly seen and the project will be realised in the next forty months, it will truly change the quality of life for our fellow citizens on Hvar,'' said Plenković.

The mayor of Jelsa spoke about the part of the project related to the reconstruction of tourist infrastructure on Facebook.

"For the construction of drainage, and consequently the tourist infrastructure, in terms of paving of all of the streets, squares and the coastal belt in Jelsa and Vrboska, there's 270.000.000,00 kn (two hundred and seventy million) for the MUNICIPALITY OF JELSA!''

The total value of the project is 380 million kuna, of which about 270 million kuna will be spent on Jelsa and Vrboska, and the rest on the City of Stari Grad.

The contracts were concluded in the presence of the President of the Government of the Republic of Croatia Andrej Plenković, Minister of Environmental Protection and Energy Tomislav Čoric, Minister of Regional Development and European Funds, Gabrijela Žalac, and others.

As stated, most of the funds have been secured from EU Funds, part from the Ministry of Environmental Protection, part from Croatian Waters, and part from their own funds.

All of the necessary building permits have been issued for the works on Hvar, and construction tenders have been published. If everything is in order, the works should start next winter, run for a period of three years, except during the tourist season, and the project must be completed by the end of 2022.

In this way, the Municipality of Jelsa will become one of the largest EU beneficiaries in terms of population in the Republic of Croatia and we must be proud of that fact.

Make sure to follow our dedicated lifestyle page for more information on Hvar and much more.

July 14, 2019 - Gin & Tonic tuna, one of the many highlights on Hvar Town's most innovative menu at Lucullus.

I get asked a LOT for restaurant recommendations on Hvar. I actually rarely eat out on the island these day, and with so many places opening, I am not really up to date with the latest, but my number one recommendation is always the same. Especially for guests looking for a little variety to the traditional Dalmatian fare. 

It is not the cheapest restaurant, nor the most expensive. There are fancier restaurants on Hvar, and plenty that are not so fancy. There are restaurants in the town with better locations, and there are those with worse locations. 

But for a combination of innovative menu, quality food, service and the overall guest experience, there is only one restaurant that wins - at least in my experience. 

Lucullus. 

I have known owner Crazy Stipe and his family for years, ever since we met through Total Hvar several years ago. Back then, his concept was more of a party restaurant, and there were theatrics from his excellent staff. It was the first time I had been to a restaurant for dinner with a friend and left feeling I had made friends with the entire restaurant. It was a fantastic experience. 

After taking a short break from Lucullus, Stipe was back last year, with an entirely different concept and cuisine. He became the first restaurant on the island to my knowledge to offer a wide selection of vegan and gluten-free dishes. As I am very fond of my meat, I accepted his invitation to try some of his vegan specialities with a little suspicion, but here is what I experienced last summer. And the vegan burger really WAS that good.  

"I have something new you might like," Stipe told me a couple of weeks ago when I popped in to say hi. "Gin and tonic tuna. We will start next month. I will call you."

Gin and tonic tuna?!? At least the lemon could multitask. Had Crazy Stipe gone a little too far this time?

As I was spending the day on Hvar with Alan and Marija, the owners of Secret Dalmatia and Culinary Croatia, I decided to arrange dinner at Lucullus. Alan is a big foodie and very demanding in what he expects - one reason why both Secret Dalmatia and Culinary Croatia are number one in their fields. After years of friendship, I know better than to waste his time on an experience which will be anything but excellent. 

Stipe offered the option of a la carte or to let him choose for us, as he poured a welcome glass of Lucullus-branded fizz.  

And so to the food, which Stipe introduced lovingly.

Welcome - a little bit different Falafel with sunflower, cashew, hummus and lukewarm vegetable salad. We provide every day a different welcome but always try to serve it vegan. It is different because we add mushroom to the dough and oats to the falafel and we do not serve with yogurt but with hummus made of sunflower seeds and cashew.

Cold cucumber mint soup - as we already had the gazpacho on the menu and the guests reacted very positively to that. The idea was to have another cold soup but less spicy, so we came to the cucumber soup. Perfect to cool down after a hot day, and it combines a lot of Mediterranean tastes... Cucumber, yogurt, garlic and mint.

Gin and Tonic Tuna... What to say, there has been a lot of hype about Gin and Tonic these last few years, so we had the idea to combine it with something. Scandinavians marinate their salmon with sugar, salt, pepper and herbs to add flavour. And in Hotel Gasthof Post in Lech am Arlberg, where I work in the winter in Austria, I worked two years ago with a chef who tried to combine G&T with salmon, but I didn't like it (I do not like salmon). I remembered this at the beginning of the season when I was preparing some tuna.

So I tried a few times and now it is balanced how I like it. So we marinate it with brown sugar, pepper salt, juniper, lemon and lemon juice, and gin (we decided that it tasted the best with Tanqueray). The tuna is served on a bed cucumber lemon cream. (You can hear Stipe introduce it in the short video above. It was gorgeous, light and balanced, and the pepper gave it the perfect finish. I thought the dish might be a gimmick, but it was excellent).

(Stipe brought us three main courses to share)

Wild Boar with lavender gnocchi - our classic back in 2011 when i put it on the menu for the first time. Everybody told me not to do it as nobody will eat boar in the summer.

Since then it has always been on the menu and it was always very popular. And now you have in Hvar a few places to eat Boar. The idea was to have a plate connected to the island but not a fish dish. So we came to boar which is a traditional dish on Hvar.

We braise it in plavac mali, the island red wine grape and make some lavender gnocchi. If they can add lavender to ice cream, why not to gnocchi. So it is a whole island story. Boar from Zastrazisce, plavac mali from Jelsa (Tomic), potatoes from Brusje, lavander from Velo Grablje, just the guy cooking it is from Vrgorac. 

The vegan burger. I love meat but when I first tried this burger last year from our vegan chef, Luna, I was stunned. So I kept the burger even after Luna left our team. I changed a bit the recipe (sorry Luna) so now I like it even more.

The pattie is made of red beans, mushroom, carrot, onion and garlic, for the sauce we use again sunflower, cashew and hummus but with herbs on the pattie there is a marmalade of red onions the bun is made with turmeric.

Chicken curry - my opinion is that I seldom had a nice looking and tasty chicken dish in a restaurant. Either it was tasty but not nice to see, or nice to see but not tasty. So we worked on it. I didn't want a classic Indian curry because in my opinion it is too heavy and also I didn't know where to buy proper curry paste. Thai curry is definitely too hot. So I played a bit with the spices and now I like it. It is chicken, vegetables, coconut milk, juice of peaches, and curry powder. To spice it up a little we have a home-made sauce of hot yellow chili peppers.

Lemon tart - the idea was to have a refreshing and light vegan dessert not too sweet. So I came to the Lemon tart which is raw and vegan... All you need is almond dried cranberry for the bottom and the cream is lemon, cashew, coconut oil and dried cranberry. 

Vegan chocolate mousse - rice, coconut milk, sugar, coconut oil, cashew and fresh ground cacao nuts. No refined sugar, just a nice and light chocolate mousse.

So how was it for the team from Secret Dalmatia and Culinary Croatia?

"One of the best summer meals one can have on the Adriatic coast. Highly recommended to our clients for ambiance, service but - most of all - incredible food."

Fantastic flavours and interesting combinations. Two words were on all our lips as we walked through the town after the meal - light and balanced. The flavours blended really well, and although we were full, it felt light, in the same way one does after a good sushi meal. 

There is one more detail to add. Lucullus is very much a family restaurant, and two of Stipe's kids are working with him. Ivana is outstanding as front of house, and Marino makes a quality gin and tonic for such a young man. A true family restaurant trying to offer the best possible food, service and ambiance to their guests. 

They succeed on all three counts. 

Lucullus is located just off the main square, on the first adjacent street to the right as you enter the square past the cathedral. 

You can follow them on Facebook. 

Gin and tonic will never be the same again.