Friday, 20 May 2016

Best Seafood Restaurants in Split? Look No Further!

Split, being the second largest city in Croatia, has an incredible amount to offer. From Diocletian’s Palace, to idyllic isles, and maybe most importantly: street lined restaurants selling succulent seafood.

It’s hard enough to decide where your next meal will be in Split, with a plentitude of options and a cheerful maître d' awaiting your arrival, it can get increasingly overwhelming. Because we encourage you to live like Dalmatian’s do when you’re in our city (all about relaxing) and because we know Split like the back of our hands, we’re here to narrow this down for you simply. Here are two of the best seafood restaurants in Split, for those nights you’re in Split and well, you want seafood!

Wednesday, 12 June 2013

Konoba Korta: Microbrewery Beer and Retro Dalmatian Cuisine

(Poljana Grgura Ninskog 4)

When a friend of mine uploaded an image of him enjoying a Croatian microbrewery beer in Split, I was quick to pop into Konoba Korta, a new tavern on a quiet square in the palace.

I was positively surprised to see that Konoba Korta did not try to replicate rustic tavern interiors and instead had more retro-country accents such as flowered tablecloths, polka-dotted pots, and fresh herb pots along the kitchen windowsill.  

Their authentically Dalmatian menu also had a little more flair with loved classics such as squid with barley, cuttlefish with broad beans and homemade pasta, a chickpea side dish with a Dalmatian spin. The desserts were a little more American inspired such as a vanilla-bourbon mouse, a parfait with vodka and peach, and somewhat mediocre signature Korta cocoa-pancake.

Obviously, I had to go right ahead an order my San Servoli Svjetlo Pivo from Buje in Istria. It’s been a while since I have had a micro, and the first time I’ve tried a Croatian one so I was glad to try this Istrian brew; an unfiltered lager re-fermented in the bottle. In my glass was a cloudy yellow-brown liquid with tiny (but many) sizzling bubbles…a grassy, soft malty bitterness made it a perfect drink on a warm pre-summer day. San Servoli also make an amber beer (Crveno Pivo) however, they are currently out of stock but Korta promises to get their hands on them soon again.

Beer aside and over to the food. Before our starters we got the amuse bouche on the house; a chickpea pate (hummus) with bread on the side. As a side dish salad with went with chickpeas and motar (a special wild herb that grows along the coast) seasoned with Dalmatian herbs and olive oil; a great refreshment which could be enjoyed as a light lunch too.

We opted for the authentic Dalmatian dishes rarely found in konoba menus nowadays; squid with barley and a cuttlefish with broad beans and homemade pasta. The squid with barley dish has been made famous in the Pojoda Restaurant on Vis so it was nice to see something similar in Split; Korta’s version is a little more wholesome and ‘thick.’ The hearty cuttlefish dish came with homemade green macaroni and I liked that the dish wasn’t over soaked in ink (as I often find in many places). Although tasty and with admittedly large portions, I found that a price tag of 95kn per main dish was a little over the top for a casual eatery.

My dining partner didn’t need to convince me to try some dessert although I was completely full. Always eager to try an eateries ‘signature’ dishes, I opted for their “Black Bag Korta,” a cocoa-pancake with vanilla ice-cream and marmalade packed like a parcel; not sure what is so ‘signature’ about it other than the addition of cocoa as every restaurant in the city has pancakes on the menu. We also had a slice of parfait with vodka and peach; a refreshing bite with a slight tang of vodka, but I was disappointed that the peached were canned; perhaps a Dalmatian twist could be rakija peaches…

All in all, I was glad to have discovered a new eatery in Split that has put a focus on retro Dalmatian dishes from yesteryear and a quirky addition of local microbrewery beer. The charming courtyard setting and its cute décor makes it a clear favorite of the two eateries on the square, which is the home of the grand Church of St. Phillip Neri.

 

Friday, 5 April 2013

Konobas in Split: A List That Grows As Do Our Bellies

Please see below list of preferred konobas and eateries in Split where you can taste traditional Dalmatian and Croatian cuisines. Click read more to get an insider's scoop on each eatery. The list is ever increasing (as is the size of our stomach) as we personally pay these joints a visit to give you an honest insight into the eateries in Split.

Stare Grede

(Domovinskog rata 46; +385(0)21 485 501; Facebook Page)

Stare Grede means ‘old beams’ and this traditional tavern only 1km from the center is just that; old beams and rustic wooden benches. Meat is really Stare Grede’s forte with game often found on the menu. Stare Grede also stir up a sumptuous selection of daily dishes going from 29KN only...read more

Konoba Hvaranin

(Ban Mladenova 9; +385(0)91 5477 946)

Konoba Hvaranin (meaning ‘man from Hvar’) is a miniscule eatery, popular with the city’s intellectualsthat, which dish up local fare from the freshest ingredients and have become particularly known for their Hvaranin clams and a tribute-to-grandma-like rožata, Dalmatia’s take on crème brûlée...read more.

Fife

(Trumbiceva obala 11; +385 (0)21 345 223)

We all seek authenticity, the best produce, and the most comfortable surroundings but sometimes a true local experience means spotty service, loud kitchen staff, crowded seating, and cheap wine; that’s Fife for you, a truly authentic and affordable Split institution...read more.

Villa Spiza


(Kružićeva 3; +385 (0)91 152 1249)

Hipsters and bohos swarm to this budget bistro for a soulful bite whisked together after a morning stroll through the marketplace. Adding to its charm, this no-frills downtown joint has an eclectic mix of cutlery and plates, bar-top seating, an open kitchen, and a random art selection on its walls…read more.

Grego Levante   

(Bosanska 2; +385 (0)91 204 2222)

Named after the wind the blows from the Greek coast towards to Adriatic, this new little konoba is located within the western walls of Diocletian’s palace. At Grego Levante you will find traditional Dalmatian fare but in the mix are ancient dishes rarely found in restaurant but so loved by the Splićani (the people of Split)...read more.

Pimpinella

(Spinčićeva 2A; +385 (0)21 389606)

Don’t be fooled by the 1980’s interiors that take you back to a long lost era in Croatian history, Konoba Pimpinella dish out wholesome interpretations of traditional fare. Pimpinella is one of the most popular for the local crowd from all walks of life; from prime ministers to shopkeepers. Their prices are fair and the food hearty and don’t miss their lunch-time tuna pašticada on Fridays... read more.

Konoba Kod Joze

(Sredmanuška 4; +385 (021) 347397)

Locals and tourists alike swarm to this hideaway to flavour traditional Dalmatian fare on the intimate terrace in the summer or indoors under fish netted ceilings during wintertime. Try the signature dish, "green tagliatelle with assorted shellfish" which has been mentioned in several tourist publications; this is a pasta concoction of Adriatic delicacies... read more

Oštarija u Viđakovi

(Prilaz braće Kaliterna 8

; +385 (0)21 489 106; www.ostarijavidjakovi.com)

Oštarija u Viđakovi is a konoba hidden down a tight street in the Bačvice neighborhood with an intimate terrace and eclectic interiors. Oštarija u Viđakovi was founded in 1799 and the menu is strictly Dalmatian with traditional dishes, grandma’s recipes and seafood fare... read more

Šperun

(Šperun 3; +385 (0)21 346 999)

A traditional konoba (tavern), Šperun is a little eatery up the road next to the St. Francis church near Riva. The interiors are so welcoming, boasting a country feel with rustic interiors, exposed walls, old tins and radios, checkered tablecloths and waiters in sailor uniforms. The menu of course includes all the Dalmatian specialties under the sun, domaći (home-made) and fine local wines... read more.

Gradska Kavana

(Narodni Trg 1 (Pjaca); +385(0)21 317 835)

All major Croatian cities are marked with a Gradska Kavana (City Tavern) of some sort. Split’s Gradska Kavana is located on the popular Pjaca Square, and although the renovated interiors still bring you back to socialist Croatia, they serve some hearty value-for-money dishes...read more.

Trattoria Tinel

(Tomica Stine 1; +385 (0)95 829 2005)

Tinel (meaning living room in Dalmatian dialect) looks so warm and inviting through the windows. With dimmed lighting and an interior that merges lush velvets, country details and shabby chic with eclectic seating and high exposed walls, this Trattoria really looks like a living room. The menu mirrors most local konobas with a variety of traditional fare such as pasta, fish and meats, and the obligatory pancake selection however; there are a few ´originals’ in the mix...read more

Friday, 5 April 2013

Konoba Stare Grede: Meat Galore!

(Domovinskog rata 46; +385(0)21 485 501; Facebook Page)

Stare Grede means ‘old beams’ and this traditional tavern only 1km from the center is just that; old beams, rustic wooden benches, stone walls, and old farm photography. 

The owner is a hunter so in wintertime, game is a favorite on the menu; his own catch. He bakes his own breads, and knocks out a reputable peka (meat prepared under a bell covered in coal) on order. He is passionate about sourcing the best produce there is, whether it be local prosciutto, vegetables, or cheese, but meat is really Stare Grede’s forte; so what else but to try some carnivorous delicacies? 

The owner’s wife sometimes prepares a little surprise on the house such as čvarci paté, a paté made of pork rind, spiced with paprika. Now there is something that warms any heart; it might give you a heart attack in years to come but its so worth it.  For a real man’s plate, try the bacon-wrapped tenderloins on the spit with potatoes à la peka on the side but be aware that the portions are massive and steak on the spit means two spits with four 7cm diameter pieces on each, so eight pieces (!!). Even a real man can’t consume the whole plate.

Stare Grede also stir up a sumptuous selection of daily dishes going from 29KN only and is a popular lunch spot for blue-collars at breaktime.

Friday, 5 April 2013

Oštarija u Viđakovi: Strictly Dalmatian Fare!

(Prilaz braće Kaliterna 8

; +385 (0)21 489 106; www.ostarijavidjakovi.com) 

 

 Oštarija u Viđakovi is a konoba hidden down a tight street in the Bačvice neighborhood and if you are lucky enough to find it, you will immediately be drawn by its intimate terrace and charming interiors. The eclectic mix of knick knacks include old radios, the obligatory checkered table cloths, rural Dalmatian artifacts old photographs of Split as well as important people that have shaped its history. Oštarija u Viđakovi was founded in 1799 according to the sign in the front and definitely exudes an Old World feel.

 

 As its interiors, the menu is strictly Dalmatian with traditional dishes, grandma’s recipes and seafood fare. As you skim the menu, dip bread in local olive oil as enjoy a shot of rakija. The a la carte menu is written in Split dialect (as well as English and Italian) and takes a large focus on grilled fish and meat dishes with traditional specialties such as marinated sardines, codfish risotto, stuffed paprika, Dalmatian fish brodetto, and Dalmatia’s very own paradižot, an egg white biscuit dessert. 

 

Oštarija u Viđakovi is largely dependent on tourists but its large interiors makes it a popular venue for group events. It is open throughout the year but admittedly, the execution of the dishes fall back a little during the off-season. Nonetheless, Oštarija u Viđakovi offers a pleasant atmosphere with local peasant food; a great spot pre or post a visit to Bačvice Beach.

 

Monday, 11 March 2013

Konoba Hvaranin: A Miniscule Family-Run Tavern

Konoba Hvaranin (meaning ‘man from Hvar’) is a miniscule eatery that won’t impress you when you first encounter it but its not meant to either. Konoba Hvaranin is all about the food and not the looks. Hvaranin dish up local fare from the freshest ingredients and have become particularly known for their Hvaranin clams, the best tomato sauce in town with homemade gnocchi and a tribute-to-grandma-like rožata, Dalmatia’s version of crème brûlée. Ask the owner about the latest catch and he will happily exchange a word or two about the fish of the Adriatic.

A three-member family runs it where father conquers the kitchen (put sneaks out to greet guests and have a little quarrel with his son), mom makes desserts, and son runs the front of the house. Hvaranin is a popular joint for the city’s intellectuals and you will often catch a glimpse of a local journalist or writer and to prove they have been there, the wall is scattered with their signed photographs and books.

Address: Ban Mladenova 9

Tel: +385(0)91 5477 946

Wednesday, 23 January 2013

Konoba Stare Grede: A Carnivore's Heaven

I can’t tell you how many times I have passed Stare Grede with an urge to go in, but all those times I was walking alone and somehow never got the courage. I have heard so many good things about this place being a true local lunch hangout where blue-collars go during break to get the best meat on the market. I even know of an elderly gentleman who ventures across the city several times a week to have a bite of their daily dishes. Finally, it turned out that close friends of mine are regulars there and after I told them “I heard about this place called Stare G…,” they took my by the hand and hurried me in under the old beams of this konoba. Stare Grede means ‘old beams’ you see and this traditional tavern only 1km from the center, is just that; old beams, rustic wooden benches, stone walls, and old photos on the wall. 

We were immediately greeted by the owner who insisted we join him for a dram of heart medicine (a.k.a. rakija or grappa) as an aperitif. I politely passed but my friends accepted without a second thought.

The owner is a hunter so in wintertime, game is a favorite on the menu; his own catch. He bakes his own breads, and a knocks out a reputable peka (meat prepared under a bell covered in coal) on order. He is passionate about sourcing the best produce there is, whether is be local prosciutto, vegetables, and cheese, but meat is really Stare Grede’s forte; so what else but to try some carnivorous delicacies?

The owner’s wife wanted us to try her newest concoction on the house; čvarci paté, a paté made of pork rind, spiced with paprika. Now there is something that warms my heart; it might give me a heart attack in years to come but its so worth it. Surprisingly, the texture wasn’t as lardy as you would think when you know what hides in these balls or calories. Where I come from, we eat crispy rind out of candy bags so this made me felt right at home.

As main, I opted for a real man’s plate of bacon-wrapped steaks on the spit with potatoes à la peka on the side. This joint probably one of the only places in town that asked me how I wanted my meat cooked (medium) instead of than killing the poor piece by making is extra well done. The outcome was simply spectacular; tender meat cuts without the stringy bits, an easy cut, and wholesome crispy potatoes. Steak on a spit meant two spits with four 7cm diameter pieces on each, so eight pieces (!!). Even the real men at the table couldn’t consume the whole plate so luckily I was able to bring my father home some manly food.

After a slow meander home and a well-deserved nap on a very full stomach, I realize that my dining experience at Stare Grede has probably been one of the most authentic to date. I am still craving a revisit to so I have sourced a lunch companion for this afternoon, as rumor has it that their daily dishes run from 29KN only…. so gotta go!

Address: Domovinskog rata 46, Split

Saturday, 22 December 2012

Buffet Fife: A Split Institution Serving Traditional Fare on a Budget

We all seek authenticity, the best produce, and the most comfortable surroundings but sometimes a true local experience means spotty service, loud kitchen staff, crowded seating, and cheap wine; that’s Fife for you, a truly authentic and affordable Split institution. The city is cluttered with charming eateries serving up traditional fare but Fife has managed to keep their status on the dining scene for years; this is local food on a budget.

fife-split-interior

Even locals will suggest this place as the must-visit, prototypical konoba (tavern) to explore laid back culinary culture. It is after all a popular spot for local sailors, hipsters, and philosophers. Chances are you will share a table with other guests and chances are you’ll actually meet some folks here, other than just exchanging the odd chinwag. Fife really has a lively vibe and the grumpy yet loving service gives this place character. Fife offers a daily selection of hearty specialties such as tingul, a chicken tomato pot spiced with cloves, grilled fish with Swiss chard and potatoes, lamb and peas, black cuttlefish risotto, fried sardines, tripe, grilled meats, and much more.

fife-fish

Fife is located on the seafront further down from Riva along Trumbiceva obala, just three minutes away from the tourist buzz. Since their humble beginnings they have expanded across the road so in essence Fife has two dining rooms and a terrace with a bench set-up.

Trumbiceva obala 11, Split 21000, Croatia

+385 (0)21 345 223

Tuesday, 15 September 2015

Miki Bratanić Brings his Konoba to Hvar

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