The cellars of Diocletian’s Palace are housed within the southern half of the palace. The floor plan showcases a mirror image of the emperor’s residence above as this substructure acted as supporting walls. The basement halls was the entranceway into the palace by sea via the Brass Gate and previously, when the sea reached the very walls of the palace, boats would be able to berth in front of the gate to drop off supplies or receive noble guests. As you pass through the basement towards the north you will reach the stairs that lead you directly up the Peristil Square.

During the time of the emperor, the basement was largely used for storage of foodstuff and wine. Actually, the remnant of a large press, which was used to turn the grapes into wine, is still visible today showcasing that Diocletian surely enjoyed a glass or two of his own Dalmatian wines down here.

As you meander through the underground, find the circular room and notice the impeccable acoustics; above, this room was the foyer to the emperor’s bedrooms and Diocletian would be warned if anyone was coming at night due to the echoes left by anyone passing through. Emperor Diocletian was very paranoid about being killed and had specifically requested this feature; apparently with success as he is the only Roman emperor to have died of natural causes.

After the fall of the Roman Empire and the consequent settlement of various civilizations, the basement was used for various purposes. In the Middle Ages it was inhabited, and eventually it turned into a water storage facility but through time, the basement got clogged up completely. As additional houses were built above the basement, they drilled holes into their floors in order to use the basement is a sewage tank and garbage dump.

Croatian architect and the country’s first conservator, Vicko Andrić who constructed the Riva harbor-front devoted his retirement to the conservation of Diocletian’s Palace and began an excavation of the cellars in the 1850’s. Andrić drained and cleaned the cellars and archeological discoveries are still being made to this day, particularly in the far corners of the basement. Amongst other finds, older remains from the previous civilization of Aspalatos were also found.

Today, the cellars are open to the public although the eastern part was only opened up in May 1995 after the celebration of the patron saint of Split, Sv. Dujan (St. Domnium). The main hall of the basement houses tacky souvenir stalls where tourists can buy a reminder of their stay in Split. The other areas of the basement reveal a labyrinthine room layout, ideal for an archeological discovery. The basement is also a popular venue for various events such as art exhibitions, weddings, and the International Flower Show held in May.

The Temple of Jupiter is located just west of Peristil, at the end of a narrow passageway called Kraj Sveti Ivana accessible between the Skočibučić-Lukaris and Cipci Palace. Originally, there were three temples to the right of Peristil; Kibel, Venus, and Jupiter however, only the latter remains today.

The Temple of Jupiter was built around the 3^rd century, about the same time is the palace itself. Jupiter was the name of Diocletian’s father and was also the highest Roman god, the god of the sky, and the god of thunder. This god was highly worshipped during the Imperial era until the Roman Empire came under Christian rule. Emperor Diocletian believed he was a reincarnation of Jupiter and thus positioned this temple directly adjacent to his mausoleum, not St. Domnius Cathedral.

The Temple of Jupiter is a miniscule rectangular temple with a very characteristic vaulted ceiling featuring a myriad of stone blocks, each with a different central motif. Boarding the ceiling and walls is a very ornate frieze all around. The temple is elevated as below it hides the crypt, which is a typical character of a Roman temple. The doorway features very intricate moldings that tell a story in itself. It is considered to be one of the best-preserved Roman temples in the world.

At the fall of the Roman Empire in the Middle Ages, the temple was converted into Saint John’s Baptistery (Sv. Ivan Krstitelj), named after the Archbishop of Split. This meant the addition of large 12^th century baptismal font, which allowed for total immersion according to the Byzantine rite. Carved on the font is previous Croatian King Zvonimir and other notables at the time. Today, the font is used by visitors who make a wish by tossing in a coin.

Along the back wall are two medieval stone tombs where the remains of Bishop John (8^th century) and Bishop Lawrence (11^th century) lie. In between the two coffins is a large statue of John the Baptist by famous Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović.

Outside the entranceway lays a Roman sarcophagus and guarding the temple is a headless graphite sphinx (from 1500 BC), which Diocletian brought from Luxor. Directly next to the temple is Split narrowest street called “Pusti me proć,“ meaning let me through.

The temple is largely closed during the winter months however, they are open during the long tourist season and admission only costs 5KN.

The Synagogue

Tucked into the western walls of Diocletian’s Palace in the narrow street of Židovski Prolaz (Jewish Passage) you will find the third oldest continuously used Sephardic Synagogue in the world stemming from the 16^th century. Sephardic Jews came from the Iberian Peninsula (Span and Portugal) as refugees. It was once a church however; it was rented and later bought by the Jews who converted it into their place of worship. It is housed on the second of two attached medieval houses and does not resemble a synagogue from the outside.

The Aron Hakodesh, an ark and inner sanctuary which is the most sacred place of worship as it faces Jerusalem, is constructed in the Classicist style using black and white marble. The Aron Hokadesh and the Torah are actually embedded within the Roman walls of Diocletian’s Palace. The Sinagogue has no resident rabbi however; this does not prevent this tight-knit community to meet for Sabbath.

You can visit the synagogue from Monday to Friday between 10am and 2pm but we suggest you call ahead on +385 (0)21 345 672 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

The Jewish Community of Split

In nearby Salona (Solin), Jewish artifacts have been excavated, proving that this community first lived in the area somewhere between the 3^rd and 5^th century however, it is believed that they first settled in the palace in the 7^th century in what later became known as the Jewish Ghetto, or just “Get” today. Recent archeological digs also revealed several limestone carvings of menorahs in the eastern part of the basement, thought to have belonged to the first synagogue in Split which was destroyed when the palace burned in 1507. Another Jewish claim to fame is the northeast tower of the palace dubbed Židovska Kula (Jewish Tower) by locals as the Jewish community defended the city from the Ottoman invasion from this tower.

The Synagogue is located in the tight streets of the Jewish Ghetto, known as Get today and it was within this quarter of the palace that the Jews lived. Actually, the gates of the Jewish Ghetto were locked every night in order to prevent any religious outbreak between the Christians and Jewish communities. Actually, only one incident ever occurred when a fascist group robbed the synagogue of its silver and plundered the Jewish bookstore “Morpurgo” on Pjaca. The Morpurgo bookstore still exists today, bearing the same name and distict wooden green façade as it did in 1860.

Image from panoramio.com

Pre-WWII there was a slim population of 300 Jews in Split however, 50% died between 1941 and 1943 and today, Split has a Jewish community of about 100 members.

The Jewish Cemetery

Permission was given to the Jewish community in 1573 to construct a cemetery on the eastern slopes of the Marjan hill, looking over the city. It is known to be one of the oldest Jewist cemeteries in Europe and there are more than 700 graves with readable tombstones in Sephardic double-curved Hebraic text from the 18^th and 20^th century. The gravestones are constructed according the Sephardim tradition where they lie horizontal instead of standing vertical.

The last burial took place in 1945 before is was closed as a monument. Today there is a Jewish section and a Holocaust memorial at the public Lovrinac cemetery west of town.

You can reach the cemetery within a 10-minute walk up the stairs to Marjan from the Varoš neighborhood just east of the palace. If the gates are locked, you can pop into the neighboring café, “Vidilica,” and the waiter will open it up for you.

Image from zost.hr

In Roman architecture, a peristyle is an open colonnade surrounding a court; hence the name of the central court in Diocletian’s Palace is called Peristil. It is located at the intersection of the two main streets, cardo and decumanus .The nucleus of historical sites is found here, with the prothyron, sphinxes, vestibule, various palaces, and the imposing Cathedral of St. Domnius, and Diocletian’s mausoleum as surrounding this popular square.

The 27-meter long and 13,5-meter wide imperial square is framed by two colonnades to the east and west, a prothyron to the south leading to the vestibule and further to the imperial quarters. Most of the structure is made of white stone from the nearby island of Brač however; the columns are made of Italian marble and siennite from Egypt.

Actually, Emperor Diocletian was a great lover of Egypt, which is apparent as he acquired the Peristil columns and more than a dozen granite sphinxes (from 1500 BC) from Luxor. Three sphinxes remain today; one is still located onPeristil, the second sits headless in front of the Jupiter's temple, and the third is in the city museum.

Sphinx: Image by interyachtcharter.com

The head of Peristil, the prothyron, connecting the public square to the private quarters was the only place a commoner would see the emperor as he addressed his people. The prothyron has four columns, which support a triangular gable with an arch in the center. On either side of the prothyron you will find a little chapel stemming from far after the time of Diocletian; Our Lady of the Belt (1544) and Our Lady of Conception (1650).

Behind the prothyron, you will enter a vestibule, a foyer that leads you into the emperor’s residential quarters. Known as “Vestibul,” this circular room is topped by a cupola which was once covered in mosaics and marble. Today the center of the dome is no longer there, providing clear views to the skies above. The Vestibul provides great acoustics allowing klapa bands to perform traditional a-cappella songs there in the mornings.

Vestibul: Image by ezadar.hr 

To the east of Peristil is the Cathedral of St. Domnius (Katedrala Sv. Duje or Sv. Dujam), where Diocletian’s mausoleum is also located; quite an oxymoron as the emperor was a known prosecutor of Christians. The cathedral consists of the octagonal mausoleum and now main part of the church and the Romanesque belfy towering above the city (see section on Cathedral of St. Domnius for further information).

Cathedral: Image by neilmeyerhoff.com

At the end of the eastern colonnade is the Renaissance-style Chapel of St. Roch (Crkvica Svetog Roka) built in 1516. Today is houses the main tourist information office.

Much later, three palaces were built along the eastern colonnade of Peristil. Closest to the prothyron is the Skočibučić-Lukaris Palace showing characteristics of a few architectural eras; Romaneque elevations to allow access through the pillars, Renaissance windows and portal, a Baroque balcony, and a Classicist third floor. This palace will be the future home of the Museum of Ecclesiastical Arts. Next up is the Cipci Palace, where the popular Luxor café is partially housed, mixing Roman, Late Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque Styles. Inside the café, you will sit in a Roman loggia and you will notice a marble circle on the floor, stemming from the previous Temple of Venus. The last structure along the pillars is the stunning 13^th century Grisogono Palace, which was later, renovated into a Gothic style. If you can pay a night in the luxury apartments here you will enjoy the magnificent UNESCO protected ceilings featuring elaborate Gothic frescoes. The Grisogono family is the oldest living family in Dalmatia.

 Ceiling of Grisogono Palace: Image from tripadvisor.com

Peristil is the host to various events through the year most notably the Split Summer Festival where the square converts into an open-air opera theatre.

Fun facts: The Statue of Grgur Ninski was originally erected on Peristil but was severed into three pieces and dug underground in order to hide it from occupying forces in the Second World War. After the war it was re-erected and today is stands at the exit of the Golden Gate. Two other copies of the statue exists; in Nin and Varaždin. Later, the entire floor of Peristil was illegally painted red on January 11,1968 by an activist group demonstrating against communism in the former Yugoslavia.

Grgur Ninski on Peristil: Image from croatia.ch

This Cathedral of St. Domnius (Katedrala Sv. Duje or Sv. Dujam) is the most visited attraction in Split, particularly as the imposing bell-tower is considered the emblem of the city. The church was originally built as Diocletian’s mausoleum; quite an oxymoron as the emperor was a known prosecutor of Christians. It was converted into a cathedral in the mid 7^th century and the central place originally meant for Diocletian's sarcophagus was ritually destroyed.

The original octagonal shape of the mausoleum has been almost completely preserved although the domed ceiling no longer bears glittering mosaics. 24 columns surround the exterior of the structure and the domed interior is encircled with two rows of intricately decorated red granite Corinthian columns. The circular crown in the dome separating the two rows of pillars features detailed carvings of cupids, masks and human heads. There is a frieze showing the emperor with his wife, Prisca as well as four semi-circular and four rectangular niches.

Local artist Andrija Buvina carved two wooden cathedral doors in 1214 AD, which are still in place today. The fascinating Romanesque handicraft showcases 14 images illustrating the life of Jesus Christ with elements of gold plating.

The altar on the right is dedicated to Saint Domnius, a Christian martyr and 3^rd century Bishop of nearby Salona (Solin). He was prosecuted under the rule of Diocletian. It is decorated with frescoes and its altar ciborium, or cup, are both in the late Gothic style. The altar to the left is constructed by famed Croatian architect Juraj Dalmatinac in the 15^th century and is dedicated to another martyr and patron saint of Split, Anastasius

Left of the entrance is a six-sided podium in a precious green stone constructed in the 13^th century. The main alter was built in the late 17^th century and bears beautiful carvings of ten scenes from the old Testament. Another alter built in the late 18^th century features relics of Saint Domnius. A chorus was added to the eastern side of the mausoleum with benches carved in the early 13^th century.

The most apparent part of the cathedral is the 57-meter belfry towering high above the palace. Construction started in the 13^th century and supposedly went on for 300 year until completion. It is designed in the Romanesque style although details from other architectural eras were incorporated throughout its many years of construction. An arched portal cuts through the bottom of the tower to the entrance of the cathedral. At the foot of the tower are two stone carved lions that guard the entrance at either side. Above the portal is a little sarcophagus containing the remains of two daughters of a previous king who died of the plague in the 13^th century. It is possible to climb to stairs to the top of the tower where breathtaking 360-degree views of the city will welcome you.

In the adjoining sacristy building, you can also access the treasury containing sacral art works, 13^th century chalices and containers, ancient garments and books dating back to the 6^th century. Below the cathedral is the crypt, which was turned in to the Chapel of St. Lucy (Sv. Luce) during the Middle Ages.

The nucleus of Split is most definitely Diocletian’s Palace, a 1700-year-old Roman structure measuring approximately 160m by 190m. A gate or entranceway is located in the center along each of the four walls that lead down to the central square of Peristil, dividing the palace into four quarters.

Golden Gate

This gate was originally called Porta septemtrionalis but was renamed into Porta aurea (Golden Gate) by Venetians, which is what it is known as today.It is located on the northern wall of the palace adjacent to the Strossmayerov Park (Đardin) and the statue of Grgur Ninski. It is connected to a cardo, a north-south main street, leading to the central square of Peristil; this street is known as Dioklecijanova today (Diocletian’s Street).

The Golden Gate is the main entrance to the palace and was used by the emperor when he entered his new home for the first time on June 1^st, 305 AD as he arrived from his nearby town of Salona (Solin). Its grand façade is decorated with niches where sculptures of four regional rulers once sat. The four rulers included Diocletian himself, his co-emperor and subordinate Maksimian, emperor and later son-in-law Galerius, as well as emperor and governor of Dalmatia Constantine Chlorus. Previously, there were octagonal towers on either side of the gate and later a large Benedictine convent, which was later commissioned as a military hospital. None of these structures exist today however, remains of the Benedictine convent can be seen nearby at the Chapel of Arnir featuring an altar slab and sarcophagus made by the early Renaissance sculptor and architect Juraj Dalmatinac.

The Golden Gate had double gates creating a Propugnaculum, a defense system or human trap where invaders would be captured between the outer and inner gates into an enclosure or courtyard measuring 9m by 9m. The inner gate was made of solid wood and the outer gate consisted of metal bars, which were lowered when invaders entered the enclosure.

Sitting above the gate is the 5^th century Chapel of St. Martin, the patron saint of soldiers. This miniscule chapel measuring just 5 meters in width is one of the earliest Christian chapels anywhere and was built for the troops who guarded the gate. If you are lucky, you can access the chapel by a narrow stairway by turning right after passing through the gates and ring the doorbell of the Dominican convent. The nuns here look after the chapel and are happy to showcase its charming beauty and impressive history to visitors.

As you look upon the gate from the outer walls today, you can see that life still breathes in the palace and within the ancient walls themselves; notice the arches have been bricked and fitted with windows, laundry is drying, and a resident’s private terrace sits above the inner gate.

Brass Gate

 Image by members.virtualtourist.com

This gate was originally called Porta meridionalis but was renamed into Porta aenue (Brass Gate) by Venetians, which is what it is known as today. It is located on the southern wall of the palace, adjacent to the sea and popular Riva harbor-front promenade. It connects into the basement halls of the palace leading below the emperor’s imperial quarters up the stairs to the Peristil Square, and further down the cardo to the Golden Gate.

The Brass Gate is much smaller and simpler than the other gates and originally, there was no Riva and the sea reached the very walls of the palace. The Brass Gate was the entrance by sea into the palace. The gate was also dubbed the “safety gate” because it enabled the emperor and others to escape by sea in case of danger. It also acted as a service entrance for supplies that came by boat.

Today, the Brass Gate is the most popular passageway for tourists as it leads you to all the souvenir shops located in the basement halls. The basement halls showcase the substructure of Diocletian’s Palace consisting of many rooms and wall work as supporting walls for the emperor’s residents above. As you meander through the underground, find the circular room and notice the impeccable acoustics; above, this room was the foyer to the emperor’s bedrooms and Diocletian would be warned if anyone was coming at night due to the echoes left by anyone passing through. After the time of Diocletian, the basement was filled up with dirt and sewage but was excavated in the 1850's where they also discovered even older remains from the previous civilization of Aspalatos.

Silver Gate

Image by www.visitsplit.com

This gate was originally called Porta orientalis but was renamed into Porta argentea (Silver Gate) by Venetians, which is what it is known as today. It is located on the eastern wall of the palace, adjacent to main green market, Pazar and the church of St. Dominic. It connects to the decumanus, an east-west main street leading to the central square of Peristil and on to the Iron Gate, exiting onto the Pjaca Square.

Although less apparent today, the Silver Gate also had a Propugnaculum, a defense system or human trap where invaders would be captured between the outer and inner gates. The Silver Gate however, is not as richly decorated as the Golden Gate but you can vaguely spot the remains of the octagonal towers on either side of the gate.

Like three of the gates in the palace, the look-out corridor above the gate was transformed into a church in the 6^th century dedicated to the gate’s patron Saint Apollinaire who, during the Early Christian period was a saint worshipped all over the Mediterranean. It was believed that the saint’s supernatural powers protected the city from invasions from the East.

The gate was bricked up during the Middle Ages for security reasons and later other structures covered the out walls and later a smaller opening directly next to the gate called the Venetian Gate was created to gain access to the palace. During World War II, the gate was heavily damaged and the Baroque church “Dušica” which was also incorporated within the gate walls was also destroyed. In the 1950’s, the gate underwent a thorough renovation and re-opened.

Directly outside the gate is the Church of St. Dominic, first mentioned in the 13^th century but got its current structured in the 17^th century and later it underwent an expansion in the 19^th century. Within the church you will find a fascinating painting from the Middle Ages titled “Miracle in Suriano” by Palma il Giovane, a gothic crucifix, preserved wooden Baroque altars, an ancient organ, and the tomb of Arrigoni, the early 17^th century bishop of Šibenik.

The most recent highlight of the Silver Gate was when Pope John Paul II paid a visit to Split in 2000; he passed through the gate in his “Popemobile” and driving along the wide decumanus, much like the emperor did in his chariot almost two millennia ago.

Iron Gate

Image by www.visitsplit.com

This gate was originally called Porta occidentalis but was renamed into Porta ferrea (Iron Gate) by Venetians, which is what it is known as today. It is located on the western wall of the palace, at the exit to the popular Pjaca Square. It connects to the decumanus, an east-west main street leading to the central square of Peristil and on to the Silver Gate.

The Iron Gate is the most cluttered of the four gates as centuries of developments have been built around and Romans, Avars, Slavs, Italians and French have all left their mark here.

Clearly visible, the Iron Gate also had a Propugnaculum, a defense system or human trap where invaders would be captured between the outer and inner gates. This gate was the only free port of entry during the Middle Ages and therefore, the enclosure between the outer and inner gate served as a courtroom where the fate of those seeking refuge in the palace would be decided.

The early Christian Saint Teodor was the protector of the Iron Gate and in the 6^th century a tower-like church was erected above the gate on the sentry corridor to honor him. Built in Romanesque style, its design is rather modest. The structure has two floors but you will notice three rows of windows; this was to provide an illusion of three floors.

An expansion of the church was made one millennium ago and with another tower, “Gospa Zvonik” or our Lady of the Bell Tower. It is an early-Romanesque tower topped with a gothic bell-tower. It has a little double arched window and a grand clock on its façade. The clock is captivating as it is divided into 24 parts instead of 12.

Narodni Trj (People’s Square), known as Pjaca (a Croatian interpretation of the Italian ‘Piazza’) by locals was once called San Lorenzo’s Square (Trg svetog Lovre). It is located just past the western walls of Diocletian’s palace at the exit of the Iron Gate. As the population grew, the palace became too small and Pjaca was the first area developed beyond the walls in the 14^th century.

Just as you exit the Iron Gate, an interesting tower-like house is topped with gothic bell-tower. It has a little Romanesque opening and a grand clock on its façade. The clock is captivating as it is divided into 24 parts instead of 12.

Image from panoramio.com

Passing the clock tower is the Palace of Cipriano de Ciprianis on the Southeastern corner of Pjaca. It is a late-Romanesque structure built by an aristocrat from the island of Korčula in the late 14^th century. It is characterized by its heksaforas, six-part windows on the first floor separated by double columns. On its façade is a statue of St. Anthony.

Image from members.virtualtourist.com

Previously, Pjaca got its role as the center of the municipal government and thus, its main attraction today is the old Town Hall. This 15^th century gothic structure is accented by three gothic arches, which are supported by two columns with capitals. Today is no longer serves as a public office but as a function space with many exhibitions.

Image from panoramio.com

Connected to the old Town Hall by Late Gothic double windows is the charming little Karepič Palace. It is built in the 16^th century and follows the High Renaissance style.

At the far end of the square is the newer and grand Nakić Palace from 1902. It is a magnificent example of the Art Nouveau style with round corners and floral ornamentation, taking inspiration from Viennese Secession architecture.

Image from panoramio.com

Pjaca is a popular meeting spot for elderly gentlemen who meet for a morning coffee and gossip in the Gradska Kavana café. A sit on this square provides the perfect vantage point to life passing by. There are several cafes taking up seats on the square, an old bookshop, shoe shops, fashion stores and luxury apartment accommodation. There is also a flagpole monument called Standarac.

Trg Republike (Republic Square) is a large open square located just west of Riva, past Marmontova. It is surrounded on three sides by an elaborate red neo-Renaissance structure known as Prokurative. Locals therefore call the square Prokurative and rarely by its real name. The southern side of the square is open, providing a breathtaking view of the harbor front.

Prokurative was built in the 19^th century under the supervision of General Marmont and initiated by Split’s famed mayor Antonio Bajamonti. The design of Prokurative is largely inspired by architecture in Italy during the time of construction and closely resembles St. Mark’s Square in Venice. As a matter of fact, the architect of Prokurative was from Venice himself and wanted to build a structure that reminded him of home as he missed his city. Looking straight onto the square with the Adriatic at your back, run you eye above the length of the archways on your left and then on your right. On the left side, you will notice a series of captivating carved reliefs beneath the windows however, as you shift your eyes to the colonnade on the right, you will notice that there are no carvings along the whole stretch. It is said that the architect missed his Venice so much that he returned home before the project was complete, and therefore this section of the Prokurative remained unfinished.

During the wintertime Prokurative remains quite deserted however, as soon as the sun shines, the café chairs get occupied and children play ball on the square. On the square you will find the new and popular Bajamonti eatery and café, the Bellevue hotel, and the seasonal Spalatin restaurant. Prokurative is also the venue for a myriad of events, most notably the Split Music Festival.

At the foot of the steps leading down from Prokurative towards Riva, a rather dull fountain will meet you. A grand fountain was once located here called Monumentalna Fontana or Bajamontuša erected in the late 19^th century by famous Italian sculptor Luigi Ceccona. Its construction was also initiated by mayor Bajamonti and was a symbol of his success in bringing running water into the city. The fountain was destroyed in 1947 by city authorities as a symbol of fascism and Italian occupation. Some of the carved heads from this fountain can be found in Split City Museum today.

The square of Trg Braće Radić, unofficially called Voćni Trg (meaning Fruit Square) by everyone was once the home of a bustling fruit market. Now a sprawling square of shops, cafés and street performers, it is centered around three main historical landmarks.

Built in the 15^th century to protect the city from local revolts and Turkish raids is an octagonal Venetian tower and adjoining Castello to the south of the square.A passageway leads through the structure onto the Riva promenade and in this arched corridor you will find two etched Christian crosses on your right hand side. Legend says that you must point with your fingertips at each point of one cross and make a love-related wish with closed eyes. You’ll also need to make sure that when you do this, no one else is passing though the passage in either direction. For maximum effect, you should attempt to walk through the short passage with your eyes closed until you are under open skies again.

Across the tower to the north is the grand Milesi Palace built in the 17^th century, showcasing a spectacular Baroque façade considered to be one of the best examples of this architectural era in Dalmatia. The palace is recognized for its charming arched shop windows on the ground floor.

Marking the square is a statue of Marko Marulić, a 15^th century poet and Christian humanist from Split who is known as the father of Croatian literature, the crown of the Croatian medieval age, and the father of the Croatian Renaissance. He is also depicted on the Croatian 500 Kuna banknote. The bronze statue is hand made by famed local sculptor and architect Ivan Meštrović. Meštrović has most of his works displayed in his previous home, now Meštrović Gallery in Split.

Voćni Trg also played an important role in Miljenko Smoje’s cult TV series, “Velo Misto.” The square’s cultural importance made it an ideal setting for filming many of the scenes depicting life in early 20^th century Split.

On the square you will also find the upscale Croata shop, a tribute to the Croatian tie, a Marella high fashion store, a bank, a bookstore, and exclusive shoes in Karla. In the summer, souvenir stalls with live handicrafts and juice stands liven up the square.

Marmontova (Marmont’s Street) is today a popular pedestrian street leading north from Riva towards Trg Gaje Bulata, which is where the Croatian National Theatre is located. Other than housing glitzy shops, Marmontova bears historical significance too.

When Napoleon conquered Dalmatia in the early 19^th century, his supervising General Auguste Marmont looked over infrastructural developments in Split. Marmont urbanized the city by bringing electricity to Split for the first time, tearing down unnecessary structures, and creating a more viable street grid. In honor of these improvements, the city has immortalized Marmont’s name by calling one of its most visited streets after him.

Along Marmontova you will find “Alliance Francaise,” a French culture and language center suitably located on a street named after a Frenchman. Previously, this location was a library and reading room founded in 1922.

Along the street is Split’s oldest pharmacy, “Varoš” from 1856, which is fitted with furniture from an even older Italian pharmacy. Wooden cabinets are from the time of the Renaissance and various neo- Renaissance decorations and figurines, notably Galen (the Greek physician) and Aesculapius (the God of doctors in Roman mythology) are still found in the space today; a cute little stop for medical dorks.

For the artsy crowd, there is an ever-changing photography exhibition at Galerija Fotoklub Split housed in a beautiful Secession style palace “Duplančić”, and another little gallery on the street often displays quirky art by local artists. Just off Marmontova is Split oldest cinema, Karaman, from 1907.

Most popular is the Fish Market (Ribarnica, or Peškarija in dialect), known as the “belly button of Marmontova” and a monument of the city where locals come early to buy the best the Adriatic has to offer. It is housed in a Secession style building with ironworks and white stone slabs displaying the freshest catch. As the city has grown, so has the market, now taking up some outdoor space as well. Visitors will be surprised to notice that the market is not bothered by flies; this is due to the smell of the nearby sulfur springs.

Along the street is the public Split Spa facility housed in a great Art Nouveau building by local architect Kamilo Tončić, recognized by its captivating sculptures of topless women on its façade.

Curiosity will catch your eye as you spot the peculiar Pirja Fountain, a funnel-like sculpture on the ground and a fisted hand on the wall above where water aims into the funnel. The fisted hand shows the thumb protruding between the index finger and middle finger, showcasing a typical hand sign from Split, šipak, with a versatile definition of up yours, whatever, or nothing. Unfortunately, the fountain has not been in use much as the water splashes onto pedestrians. Ironically, the šipak faces directly to Zagreb; a coincidence perhaps?

image by croatiaholidayshr.com

Below maps show that the šipak is facing Zagreb

At the top of Marmontova is the square of Trg Gaje Bulata where you will find one of the best examples of modernist church architecture in “Gospe od Zdravlja” covering a still-preserved 17^th century Franciscan monastery bell tower. Dominating the square is the bright Croatian National Theater of Split built in 1893, considered one of the biggest and oldest theater houses in the Mediterranean.

image by skyscrapercity.com

There are many branded shops along Marmontova, including Bershka, Paul&Shark, Tommy Hilfiger, Zara, Benetton, O'Neill, designer eyewear in Optika Anda and a full optical service in Salmoiraghi & Vigano.