Sites in Split: Sustipan
Sustipan is a little peninsula that closes off the port of Split from the west, directly past the ACI Marina. This little green haven dotted with pine trees is nestled on a cliff face directly on the edge of the Adriatic. It is a sanctuary for Split’s citizens to sit in the sun on a bench and look across to the Dalmatian islands before a sundowner walk in the park. Sustipan carries quite a historical significance; today a park, once a cemetery and refuge of the last Croatian king.
On Sustipan you will find the medieval Benedictine monastery of St. Stephen Under the Pines built in 1068. It is said that the last Croatian king lived in the monastery during the 11th century when he was secluded there. The peninsula is named after the monastery “San Stephanus de Pinis,” or in Croatian “Sv. Stipan pod borovima,” in short, Sustipan. Today you will see the remains of the original structure however, a small 18th century is today present on the site bearing the same name. Archeological excavations also revealed Roman sarcophagi and remains of a three-naved basilica.
A Neo-classical pavilion marks Sustipan with a cupola known as Glorijet, which was designed by local architect Vicko Andrić and erected in 1825, as part of a municipal project to develop Sustipan a public graveyard.
Sustipan remained one of the Mediterranean’s most beautiful gravesites until it was destroyed in WWII, where after the tombs were shifted to an alternate located to the east of town called Lovrinac. Legend says that citizens stole fragments of tombstones to use as building materials for their homes however, in return they were cursed for life as stole from a holy source.
Sustipan peninsula is a gated area and is open during the day only. It is a popular place for locals and tourists alike providing a quiet escape from the city however, daredevils come to Sustipan to jump into the sea from the high cliffs or for a little adventurous rock climbing.
Sites in Split: Marjan Forest Park
Marjan Forest Park covers the westernmost tip of Split Peninsula. It is a green oasis, which has been cherished by the citizens of Split for generations and is considered the ‘lungs of the city.’ It covers a vast area, the size of New York’s Central Park and offers a myriad of activities and sites. There are countless paths what wend through the forests and along the coast, revealing a well-tendered landscape, jagged beaches, vista points, ancient chapels, and even a zoo.
You can take an easy stroll or a jog to the peak of Marjan hill, Telegrin, marked by the Croatian flag at 178m above sea level offering breathtaking views over Split and the Adriatic horizon. Alternatively, conduct your Marjan discovery on bike, which you can rent from the Northern Entrance to the park (a.k.a. Marjanska Vrata) for 15KN per hour; there are plenty paved roads and off-road routes to chose from.
Other than endless greenery, some hot spots to discover include:
Sustipan: A peninsula that closes off the city harbor to the west is an old cemetery nestled on a cliff face. It is a popular rock climbing spot for if you have the gear.
Sv. Jere Church: This magnificent little church was constructed into the rock face in 1500; a Croatian version of the Petra of Jordan if you will.
Vidilica Café: Found at the summit of a flight of stairs from taken from the Varoš neighborhood, here you can sip your coffee while taking in the best city panoramas.
The Zoo: Probably one of the smallest animal havens in the world but a great visit for kids.
Kašjuni Beach: Located on the southern foothills of the Marjan, this no-frills beach provides a quiet city getaway in pristine nature. A short walk takes you to Split’s only dog friendly spot dogs. This beach is also a nudist beach.
Bene Beach: Located along the northern shores of this pine-dotted peninsula, this jagged beach is a popular recreational destination with tennis courts, football, playgrounds, and a restaurant.
Getting to Marjan
It is prohibited to drive through Marjan Forest Park but you can park by the Northern Gate (a.k.a. Marjanska Vrata). Get to the Northen Gate on foot by heading up Plinarska Ulica directly behind the National Theatre of Split, cross Prilaz Vladimira Nazora Ulica and continue west down Mandalinski Put.
You can also get to Marjan from the city by climbing the stairs to Vidilica from the Varoš neighborhood west of Riva.
Alternatively, you can access from the southern side by passing through the Marjan tunnel to the Meje neighborhood and turn right at the t-junction and continue west along Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića until a ramp stops you from driving further. Park nearby and walk the rest of the way.
You can also hop on bus 12 from Riva and get off at the last stop, directly by Bene beach. Alternatively, take a little choo choo train that departs every hour in front of the National Theatre of Split in the summer from 8am to 8pm; a real popular mode of transport for the kids for just 10kn.
Diocletian's Palace and its Most Visited Attractions
A little insight into the palace and its most visited attractions.
DIOCLETIAN'S PALACE
The Emperor, Diocletian constructed his retirement palace in about 300AD where he resided until his death. After his death, the palace became home to the various expelled emperors and their family. Eventually when the Avars and Slavs conquered the surrounding areas of Split, the city’s residents moved within the palace walls. More and more settlements were built within the palace and eventually the palace became the town itself. Today Diocletian’s Palace is considered one of the only cultural monuments in the world in which people still live. In the 17th century, a new defense system in the form of bastions was built around the palace by the famous Frenchman; A. Magli. Diocletian’s Palace is an example of the most magnificent Roman architecture on the Adriatic coast. It is important to mention that the palace also serves as a residential area today and is therefore open to all. Due to this, it is near impossible to control the flow of visitors to the site. There are many attractions within the palace, but the most viewed is the St. Duje Cathedral on the Peristyle square. Other popular sites are the Temple of Jupiter and the cellars of the palace. The narrow, crooked streets with various shops are also popular among tourists.
Aerial View of Diocletian's Palace
Drawing of the palace in its original plan
ST. DUJE (DOMNIUS) CATHEDRAL
The St. Duje Cathedral and bell tower is known as one of the oldest Catholic Cathedrals in the world and is located within the palace walls in the central square of Peristyle. The construction of this cathedral only began in the 13th century, long after the death of Emperor Diocletian as he was a persecutor of Christians. Ironically, this Cathedral was once the emperor’s mausoleum. The bell tower however, took about 300 years to construct. The cathedral has an octagon shape which is surrounded by a colonnade. Next to the entrance to the cathedral are is a black sphinx from 15 BC which was brought from Luxor in Egypt. In the cellar of the cathedral, tourists who enjoy historical religious artifacts can visit the treasury. Visitors can also climb to the top of the bell tower to enjoy 360 degree views of Split.
St. Duje's Cathedral and Bell Tower
Egyptian Sphinx
THE BASEMENT HALLS
The substructure of Diocletian’s Palace consists of many rooms and the wallwork as supporting walls for the emperor’s residents above. In the past, these rooms were of no use as they were under water. The seaside entrance to the palace allowed ships and boats to enter the through this gate, and anchor below the place and enter straight onto the Peristyle central square. Myths say that the persecuted Christians were left in this substructure in the small rooms, preventing the bodies from flowing out. In the 1850’s, architect Vicko Andric started a project which drained and cleaned the cellars of Diocletian’s Palace, and created a Riviera on the seaside front of the palace which is known as Riva today. Today the cellar is the main area for souvenir shops that lead to the stairs that go the Peristyle square and St. Duje’s cathedral. Other parts of the substructure are used as temporary art exhibitions or function spaces.
JUPITER'S TEMPLE
Jupiter was the name of Diocletian’s father and was also the highest Roman god. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the temple was converted into a Cathedral baptistery. Inside the small temple, there are two medieval stone coffins where the archbishops of Split, John and Luka are buried. Inside the temple there is a statue of Saint John made by the famous sculpture, Ivan Mestrovic. In the center of the temple there is a font basin which today is used as a wishing well as visitors throw coins in it. Originally, the temple never had a roof and this caused the rapid deterioration of the site due to environmental factors. The imposing arched ceiling has a series of face sculpured looking down on you. At the entrance of the temple, another Eqyptian sphinx can be found however, it has been vandalized and no longer has a head.
Interior pf Jupiter's Temple: Arched ceiling and statue of St. John
Jupiter's Temple with Headless Sphinx in Front
STATUE OF GRGUR NINSKI
The statue of Grgur Ninski, made my Ivan Mestrovic in 1929, is another well visited site for tourists. Previously, the statue was located in the central square of Peristyle but was moved in World War II, cut into three and dug underground to hide it from the occupying forces. It was re-erected outside the palace wall by the East, “Golden Gate” entrance. Grgur Ninski was the arch bishop of Split in the 10th century who also strongly opposed the Pope. Services were always held in Latin which was not understandable to the people of Croatia. Grgur Ninski then changed his services into the Croatian language which created more worship among the people as they understood their services and prayers. Some wearing has happened as it is believed that touching the toe of the statue brings luck. Over the years as more tourist visit the sight, it has been rubbed golden.
Statue of Grgur Ninski
Make a wish!
Want A Glass Of Wine? There Is An App For That
There are few facts we can't beat. First of all, Croatian wine are rising and shining, its varieties depending on a region is just incredible. Second, there are not so many people who know how to taste wine, drink it, or pair it with a certain food. Modern times bring a simple answer on wine-lovers' prayers. There is an app for that.
It's called, as expected, Cro-Wine, and is available for Android smartphones and tablets, but iOS version is soon to come. It has few excellent, and extremely useful features. For example, one of the best Croatian sommeliers Klaudio Jurcic offers easy and effective pairing of Croatian wines with particular food, in case you don't trust your waitor, or just got one who doesn't have a clue about it. Application also gives general information on Croatian enology, sends reminders of enological events in Croatia and the world, teaches the basic rules of wine tasting and pairing, conducts polls and quizzes, and offers a handy dictionary with Croatian terms translated to Italian, German and English. There is an additional feature called "My Reviews" for users to keep a personal record of tasted wines.
So, next time when trying to choose among dozens of Croatian wines while looking at the menu with equally great cuisine, pull out your smartphone. It has all the answers you need.
Sad Day For Football Fans: The Great Vladimir Is Gone
One of the biggest names ever to play with Hajduk FC, Vladimir Beara, passed away this Sunday, aged 85. This goalkeeper, who had his best days in 1950s and early 1960s, was considered one of the best goalkeepers in the world of his days, maybe even of all times. After all, Russian legend Lev Yashin, the only goalie ever to win Ballon d'Or once clearly said:
"I am not the best goalkeeper in the world, it is Vladimir Beara."
Beara was born near Sinj in 1928, and began his career in Hajduk's first team in 1947. He was a member of one of the best teams in history not only of Hajduk, but also of Croatian football, in 1950 they won Yugoslav championship undefeated, and then won two more titles in 1952 and 1955. Sixteen years later, he was assistant coach when Hajduk won another title. After Hajduk, Beara also played with Belgrade's Crvena zvezda, winning 4 more titles, and was awarded as the best player in Yugoslavia, as the first goalkeeper ever with that honour. Brief international career included Alemania from Aachen, and Viktoria Cologne, both Germany.
However, the most important part of his career, a part that made him internationally recognized, was the one connected with the Yugoslav national teams. He collected 60 caps, from 1950 to 1959, and played three World Cups. Yugoslavia was strong side at that time, and Beara contributed in winning Olympic silver in Helsinki 1952. By far, the biggest award came in 1953, when Beara played as the member of European team against England, accompanied with another Hajduk's legend Bernard Vukas, and Partizan Belgrade players Branko Zebec and Zlatko Čajkovski.
Witnesses of his play say he was spectacular goalie, attractive, very athletic and elegant. After all, read a story about Beara published in The Guardian few years ago. Title "Meet Yugoslavia's ballerina Beara, once the best keeper in the world".
In 2007 he was awarded with an introduction to the House of Glory of Split Sport.
Seven Decades Of Hajduk Antifascist Pride
Back in 2011 Split football team Hajduk spectacularly celebrated its centennial anniversary, confirming once more that no matter how succesfull it is, nothing can make their fans to stop believing in it.
This May another great Hajduk's jubilee is commemorated, a 70th anniversary of Hajduk joining Yugoslav Liberation Army in World War 2. In the next few days, main celebration will take place on island Vis, where Hajduk landed after leaving Split, occupied first by Italian fascists, and then German Nazis. The rest is, as it is usually said, the history.
Story goes, in short, like this. After Axis forces occupied Yugoslavia, Split, together with most of Dalmatia was sold out by Nazi puppet so-called Independent State of Croatia, and became a part of Italy. Italian authorities knew how important Hajduk was, and tried to persuade leading people in club to join their national championship under name AC Spalato. In 1943 Italy capitulated, and Split was temporarily liberated by partisans lead by Marshall Tito. Only two weeks later, German forces came in, and granted city and the whole region to a Croatian-quisling regime. Attitude toward playing remained the same when they tried to include Hajduk in the Nazi-controlled national league. There was only one solution left. Secretly, complete team left city, and landed in Vis, the then only free part of Dalmatia, and the partisans and allies stronghold in the Adriatic, even with an air-force airport where ally bombers were landing on their return from combat missions.
On Split patron Saint Domnius day, May 7, Hajduk began the new episode in its history, as the official football team of the Yugoslav liberation forces, probably the strongest resistance movement in occupied Europe. They played dozens of matches with allies' teams, including the mythical match versus Britisth army team in Bari, Italy, in front of 40,000 spectators, it was the biggest sport event in Europe during WW2. Here is the complete list of all the matches Hajduk played until the end of the war. During 1945, Hajduk embarked on a tourney through Egypt, Palestine, Lebanon, Syria and Malta. In Lebanon, the biggest recognition came, general Charles de Gaulle granted Hajduk the title of honorary team of Free France.
This is by far one of the most impressive out-of-sport episodes in Hajduk history, and another proof for something everyone in Split already know: Hajduk is much more than just a football team. Check out some really impressive photographies and (in case you speak Croatian nice history lesson) here.
Where To Stay In Split (8): Travel To the Socialist Era
There is a lot of logic to begin this series with the oldest part of Split, Diocletian's Palace, and to end it in the eastern part of the city, mostly developed during the 20th century. When watched from the air, it looks like most of the modern parts in cities around the world, but even though you will not find usual Mediterranean charm as in some older neighbourhoods, don't rule it completely out as your accommodation choice.
When we talk of new Split, we think of an area east of Bačvice and Firule, eastbound along the sea, and north of it, all the way to the city entrance from Solin or Dubrovnik directions. Or, east from Gripe, a neighbourhood we described in previous part. It's a huge area, highly populated, and mostly built in the socialism-era of Yugoslavia.
However, some of those buildings and streets are nice examples of modern residential architecture, especially parts locally called Split 3. This development, built in the 1970s, was internationally recognized as a good, human-oriented residential area. Unfortunately, it was never completely finished, which made it look a little bit worn out in some points. The latest addition is the new University of Split campus, still not finished completely.
In the last few years, with the explosive growth of tourist arrivals, this area has become a second choice for visitors. There are lots of apartments available in high-rises everywhere, AirBnB random search for mid-June gave really nice results. A nice advantage is that they are reasonably cheaper than those in the old town, and Split is not really that big to make it impossible to go sightseeing. By car, even with heavy traffic, it's possible to reach city center in 10 to 15 minutes. For those who like to walk, there is a nice solution - about an hour long walk by the sea.
Beside apartments, usually pretty comfortable and in good shape, there is one little bit more upscale option, Radison Blu Resort, 4-star hotel settled right above the Trstenik beach. Its features are as expected from the chain hotel, and with some small boutique hotels in the city center, this is one of the most luxurious hotels in Split today.
The hotel has its own swimming pool, but an easily accessible beach is not to be missed, as well as the excellent restaurants within the hotel. Of course, Radisson Blu is a very good solution for conferences and similar events.
The whole of new Split is very well connected if you are coming with the car, and most buildings have their own parking lots, or even garages. If you decide not to drive to the city for sightseeing, you can always use the Split public transportation system. Since most of the Split inhabitants live there, most of the bus lines pass there. Ticket bought in the bus is 11 kunas for adults, 5 kunas for children age 6 to 10, and free for those younger. You can also buy 10-ticket packs in news-stands, each ticket is for two rides, and costs 17 kunas.
There are no sightseeing attractions in new Split, except if you are a socialism-style junky. However, the coast is mostly arranged as the beach, especially parts around Trstenik, near Radisson Blu, and Žnjan (pron. Zhnyan) plateau. In the summer some parts can be a little bit crowded, but not as some even more popular beaches like Bačvice.
These places are just too big not to be able to accept lots of people. If the weather is not suitable for the beach and swimming, a walk by the sea is always refreshing. And in winter times Žnjan becomes a very popular windsurfing and kite surfing destination.
New Split is also nicely equipped with shopping sites. The closest to the old town is Joker Center. In the very heart of Split 3 lies the small but well Prima 3 which attracted lots of smaller stores to be opened in nearby streets. The biggest shopping center in Split, and in all Dalmatia is City Center One, easily accessible by car or by bus number 18.
Of course, there are some downsides of staying in new Split. For Split circumstances it's fairly far from the main attractions. Also, it's far from being charming and cozy as some small stone paved alleys and streets in the old town and its vicinity. If you just want to have a place to tuck in as a base for further explorations, or you are on a tight budget, this could be your choice.
The story about Split accommodation might not be ending here, as there are lots of places around Split with available apartments or hotel rooms. However, this is what Split neighbourhoods have for full enjoyment in everything this city can offer.
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Where To Stay In Split (7): Off the Beaten Path
Staying in the heart of a 1,700 year-old city is unbeatable, and as we have already seen in this series, the vicinity of Split old town has many advantages when it comes to accommodation. One of the parts of Split we would like to recommend is the big area northeast of the old town. Those neighbourhoods are locally known as Lučac (pron. Lootchats), Manuš (Manoosh), Gripe (Greepae), and a little bit further are Bol and Dobri (Dawbry). This is for many reasons a very convenient place to stay: it's only minutes away from the old town and all important attractions. Beaches are also very close, and apartment prices are very competitive, real value for money. These neighbourhoods are early examples of urban Split, and staying there might give you a really good insight into the way of living in Split. Unlike the old town, or Varoš, or even Bačvice, there are many inhabitants still living in their apartments, meaning in these areas it's possible to experience some real life. That also brings some responsibilities for guests - respect your neighbours, they are there longer than you.
This area gives you several different moods, and living styles. Closer to Diocletian's Palace you can find narrow streets and old stone houses, very much like those in the old town or even more like in Varoš. This is the most vivid in a street called Radunica, and surrounding alleys, which are packed with apartments and rooms during summer. There are even a few hostels around.
If you go further north and east bound, you will find nice quiet streets, but with bigger buildings. The further you go, the more Split changes its look, and becomes more modern. Nevertheless, it's still Split, with its unique atmosphere.
There are not so many attractions in this area, this is mainly residential. The biggest one by far is Gripe Fortress, with the Croatian Maritime Museum, including part of steam ship Bakar in its yard, which served as a convoy ship during WW2. If you are a basketball fan, very close to the fortress is the small sport arena, the home of Split basketball club, former Jugoplastika, which was named by FIBA as the best team in history. NBA players Toni Kukoč, Dino Radja, Žan Tabak, and many, many others are its legends.
We have already said that accommodation in this part is easy to find, there are plenty of apartments. We typed in a random search for mid-June in AirBnB, and results are impressive, with some nice examples. However, there are not only apartments and rooms available, but also hostels, one of them was featured in Total Split, design hostel Emanuel.
On the verge of these neighbourhoods, especially on its northwestern edges, there are several good hotels, with four or even five stars, like President, than Best Western Art Hotel based in former pastry factory. Also, the best rated is business oriented Atrium, and there is also more moderate, but excellently located Globo.
Being a residential area usually means there is almost no nightlife, and that goes with this area, too. There is a club called Masters within the sport center on Gripe, and that's pretty much it. The same goes for bars, and restaurants. Go to the old town for gastronomy or liquid pleasures. Still, it can be fun to drink where locals drink, at least morning coffee. People in Split are very loud, in small amounts it can be interesting to foreigners. There is, of course, one special place, Total Split's favorite pub in Split, and the oldest one, too - Basket.
the downsides of this area, let's call it Split NE, are few. First, there is no tourist-oriented life (except accommodation), but that's not the big problem, especially for those who consider this as an upside. Also, this area has a problem with parking, like most of Split. There are paid parking lots closer to the Palace, but the rest is mostly left to your skills and luck. Not to mention that people who live there are also parked around. However, since it's so close to the old town, you can leave your car there and basically don't need to move it.
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Where To Stay In Split (6): Fun, Beach, Food
Probably right next to its history, and recently entrtainment, Split is famous for its beaches. There are not many cities of this size, maybe in the whole Mediterranean, with so many places where it's safe, fun and clean to enjoy the sea and beach. All around Marjan hill, and east of the city harbour, there is about 17 kilometres of sea line, and pretty much all of it suitable for swimming.
Still, there is one beach that comes to mind first when mentioning swimming in Split, Bačvice (pron. something like Bahtchweetse). In the last few years, tourists have re-discovered this place, and even though sometimes it can be too crowded, it's still popular. Bačvice is deeply anchored in Split mythology, and beside Diocletian's Palace this beach is one of the Split scenes that can be most frequently seen on TV or elsewhere. Once when you come there, there is no chance you will miss someone playing picigin (pron. pizzighin), beach fun played by five players with a small ball, usually made out of peeled tennis ball.
Of course, Bačvice is not only a beach. It's really a good place to stay. It is spread not only on area around namesake beach, but also through whole area from the city harbour to the main hospital, locally know as Firule, and in the north up to street called Kralja Zvonimira. There are lots of available apartments and rooms around, sometime in villas. This is one of the most urban parts of the old Split, meaning you can find anything, ranging from small and charming stone houses in the oldest part called Toć (pron. Totch), to apartments in larger, usually 1930s buildings, some of them are the most beautiful in Split.
Sadly, but this area is another proof that Split really lacks hotels. Even in this, strongly tourist neighbourhood there are only two, both 4-stars, tradition leaning Park and very modern Luxe. There are several hostels around the area, the rest are apartments and rooms.
One of the reasons why it is so popular to stay on Bačvice or Firule is its vicinity to the old town, as well as all means of transportation. Ferries to islands, bus and railway stations are in the walking range, the same goes for the old town and all attractions. On the other hand, this neighbourhood is not as rich with landmarks as other parts of Split. Beside beaches - Bačvice is not the only one, swimming is possible everywhere - the only attractions are Memorial lighthouse overlooking the city port, and browsing around nice, quiet streets.
There are several nice restaurants in the area, like traditional style Oštarija Viđakovi, few Italian or pizza places around the beach, popular and affordable Bistro Toć and several good upper-scale hits like Dvor, Kadena, Nevera, etc. Also, restaurant Bruna within hotel Park is usually well-reviewed.
One of the features of Bačvice locals like the most is that it's a great place to hang around year-round, due to Split's great climate. Every weekend you can see thousands of people enjoying being outdoors, and sipping coffee anywhere from Bačvice beach eastbound is a mandatory ritual if you want to feel what is it like to be from Split. The most popular places are Žbirac overlooking the beach, Dvor, Ovčice, Kalafatić, and several others along the seaside promenade stretching for few kilometres. Also, there are some nice places away from the sea, like students' meeting point Aktuell
Bačvice, and surrounding area is one of the centers of Split nightlife. On the beach itself there are several clubs, and bars are open late, but probably the most popular venue is O'Hara music club, with daily DJ programs, and frequent live performances. During the summer concerts take place on a plateau in front of the club. There are also some other popular events, like the excellent Festival of Mediterranean Film
Downsides of staying in Bačvice are rare, its vicinity and good infrastructure is a sufficient reason to stay there. However, although most of this neighbourhood is really quiet, there are zones that sometime can be too noisy for families with children. So, if coming this way, avoid areas closer to the beach and clubs, youngsters coming home are loud creatures. Also, since it's a neighbourhood of mostly small houses, parking can be somewhat difficult, there are only two paid parking lots, everything else is left to your imagination for finding a place and driving skills.
To be continued
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Where To Stay In Split (5): Land Of Hajduk FC
For decades, the only activity associated with the neighbourhood called Poljud (pron. Pohlyood) in general Split mythology was football, or soccer, depending on which side of the Atlantic you're coming from. Local team Hajduk (Hidook), 103 years old and bigger than life in Split, has its home there since 1979, in a beautiful shell-like stadium. Since last year, however, there is another internationally recognized element of Poljud, both 'hood and stadium - Ultra Europe festival.
Poljud and nearby Spinut (Speanoot), settled on the northern side of Marjan hill, were only recently discovered as a possible place to stay while on vacation in Split, mostly because all attention was usually directed to the Old Town, and its neighbouring city parts. However, northern Split is very convenient for those not seeking a place to stay within the historical city core.
Most of the buildings - except in streets closer to Marjan - are rather new, built in the 1970s and 1980s, during Yugoslav times, meaning you will find typical socialism-era architecture, buildings raised for people working in local factories. It doesn't have to be as bad as it sounds, at least most of them are solid, fully equipped structures. In the last few years, since Split became a big thing in tourism, a lot of apartments were re-arranged into very decent accommodation. Another random AirBnB search for mid-June gave us a good deal of results.
Staying in Spinut/Poljud, as well as in some other newer neighbourhoods, is very convenient for those who arrive by car. It's much easier to find a parking space around buildings. Also, it's easily accessible from any direction, and going to an Old town for sightseeing is really a nice down-the-hill easy and short walk.
There are good sightseeing points in this neighbourhood too, some of them are among the major Split landmarks. We have already mentioned the stadium. Although it could be in better shape, the main attraction is the story of Hajduk, and any local will be more than happy to tell you about it.
The biggest cultural and heritage spot is by far the Archeological Museum, with an incredible collection of Greek and Roman artefacts.
Another interesting spot for history-lovers might be the monastery of Saint Anthony, just by the stadium, with a true rarity - an 18th century painting depicting Muslim prophet Mohammad, one of very few in Europe.
This neighbourhood is mostly residential, as we explained, and don't expect to find a lot of restaurants around. Some exceptions are around the sporting marina, where some middle class, but very reliable and inexpensive places are based, like Re di Mare, Lučica, Gusar, etc, with some of the most beautiful terraces in Split.
On the verge of this neighbourhood, there are also some of the main nightlife points in Split, like clubs Vanilla and Hemingway Bar. Maybe you won't like Croatian music there, but there are also some more versatile nights.
The downside of Poljud and Spinut might be that it's just too different from the parts of Split that maybe drew you here. It's a residential, family area, with not so much history around. Still, if you don't mind do a little walk, it can be attractive if you want to pay less for some comfortable accommodation. Except during the days of Ultra Europe, then you will always pay more.
To be continued
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