(Domovinskog rata 46; +385(0)21 485 501; Facebook Page)

Stare Grede means ‘old beams’ and this traditional tavern only 1km from the center is just that; old beams, rustic wooden benches, stone walls, and old farm photography. 

The owner is a hunter so in wintertime, game is a favorite on the menu; his own catch. He bakes his own breads, and knocks out a reputable peka (meat prepared under a bell covered in coal) on order. He is passionate about sourcing the best produce there is, whether it be local prosciutto, vegetables, or cheese, but meat is really Stare Grede’s forte; so what else but to try some carnivorous delicacies? 

The owner’s wife sometimes prepares a little surprise on the house such as čvarci paté, a paté made of pork rind, spiced with paprika. Now there is something that warms any heart; it might give you a heart attack in years to come but its so worth it.  For a real man’s plate, try the bacon-wrapped tenderloins on the spit with potatoes à la peka on the side but be aware that the portions are massive and steak on the spit means two spits with four 7cm diameter pieces on each, so eight pieces (!!). Even a real man can’t consume the whole plate.

Stare Grede also stir up a sumptuous selection of daily dishes going from 29KN only and is a popular lunch spot for blue-collars at breaktime.

(Prilaz braće Kaliterna 8

; +385 (0)21 489 106; www.ostarijavidjakovi.com) 

 Oštarija u Viđakovi is a konoba hidden down a tight street in the Bačvice neighborhood and if you are lucky enough to find it, you will immediately be drawn by its intimate terrace and charming interiors. The eclectic mix of knick knacks include old radios, the obligatory checkered table cloths, rural Dalmatian artifacts old photographs of Split as well as important people that have shaped its history. Oštarija u Viđakovi was founded in 1799 according to the sign in the front and definitely exudes an Old World feel.

 As its interiors, the menu is strictly Dalmatian with traditional dishes, grandma’s recipes and seafood fare. As you skim the menu, dip bread in local olive oil as enjoy a shot of rakija. The a la carte menu is written in Split dialect (as well as English and Italian) and takes a large focus on grilled fish and meat dishes with traditional specialties such as marinated sardines, codfish risotto, stuffed paprika, Dalmatian fish brodetto, and Dalmatia’s very own paradižot, an egg white biscuit dessert. 

Oštarija u Viđakovi is largely dependent on tourists but its large interiors makes it a popular venue for group events. It is open throughout the year but admittedly, the execution of the dishes fall back a little during the off-season. Nonetheless, Oštarija u Viđakovi offers a pleasant atmosphere with local peasant food; a great spot pre or post a visit to Bačvice Beach.

Konoba Hvaranin (meaning ‘man from Hvar’) is a miniscule eatery that won’t impress you when you first encounter it but its not meant to either. Konoba Hvaranin is all about the food and not the looks. Hvaranin dish up local fare from the freshest ingredients and have become particularly known for their Hvaranin clams, the best tomato sauce in town with homemade gnocchi and a tribute-to-grandma-like rožata, Dalmatia’s version of crème brûlée. Ask the owner about the latest catch and he will happily exchange a word or two about the fish of the Adriatic.

A three-member family runs it where father conquers the kitchen (put sneaks out to greet guests and have a little quarrel with his son), mom makes desserts, and son runs the front of the house. Hvaranin is a popular joint for the city’s intellectuals and you will often catch a glimpse of a local journalist or writer and to prove they have been there, the wall is scattered with their signed photographs and books.

Address: Ban Mladenova 9

Tel: +385(0)91 5477 946

On either side the historic core of Split you will find two charming neighborhoods with each their personal history to tell. They are known as the oldest suburbs of Split.

Veli Varoš (Varoš) is located above Trumbićeva obala street just west of Riva, on the southern slopes of Marjan. You can venture into Varoš through many winding roads that lead you into this labyrinthine neighborhood. Easy access points include; next to St. Francis church, beyond Prokurative, or via stairs at the western end of Trumbićeva obala

This charismatic neighborhood takes more after an island village with traditional Dalmatian rural-like stone houses, narrow lanes, and scattered churches. This is becuase Varoš was developed by fishermen and farmers who came to Split to make a living and to seek shelter from the Ottoman invasion. Varoš however, was indeed later havocked by the Turks. Today, Varoš is not only the living quarters of fishermen who are surviving off their daily sardine catch but is quite a prestige joint to invest in. Varoš’s real estate market has boomed and many boutique luxury apartments have chosen the cute houses of this neighborhood to be their home.

The most notable structure in Varoš is the adorable Church of St. Mikula from the 11th century. Notice the inscriptions on the portal; the names of a couple from the neighborhood. If you pass by in spring, the roof blooms with a few colorful flowers. Other prominent churches include the Kris church with an onion dome and Gospe o' Soca.

Radunica is located east of the city across the street from the vegetable market built in a medieval urban style. Radunica was the central street of the Lučac suburb that was settled 500 years ago by the arrivals from the Republic of Poljica, an autonomous community of “peasants” from Omiš. Although Radunica is in essence a street name, the whole neighborhood is referred to as such today. The many intersecting streets are named after those original families; Kuzmanić, Ninčević, Kuzmić, Ružić, Bubalo, Trumbić, Duplančić, Dumanić, Petrić, Prvan, Vešanović, Dvornik, Čulić and so on.

Radunica is famous for its popular street festival “Days of Radunica” first held in 1994 in an attempt to spark independent Croatia’s socials and cultural identities. It is held during the last week of June every year during the celebrations of St. Petar; also the name of a church in Radunica that was destroyed in WWII. The Days of Radunica take on a real folk feel with klapa performances, traditional bingo, poetry readings, traditional food and drinks.

Salona

Pizzeria Galija is smack bang in the center on a side street to Marmontova and has become a local pizza institution over the past two decades, but their menu prices have been growing as the venue ages too. 

On my annual summer breaks in Croatia, I vividly remember begging my parents to go to Galija for pizza; we always sat in the same booth with views to the pizzaiolo knocking out quattro stagionis by the dozen. Growing up in swanky Dubai, this down to earth place was a like coming to a kid's restaurant in my world. 

The interiors have not changed since its inception; dark wooden seating, porcelain tile artwork from the 80's, a long bar with stained class deco, and an open wood-fired oven. Although Galija's specialty is pizza, they also have a tempting pasta selection, salads, and meat dishes available. In summer, you can dine on the little terrace in the front.

Pizzeria Galija

Tonciceva 12, 21000 Split

+385 (0)21 347 932

We all know that pizza originally comes from Italy however, Croatians have adopted this poor man's concoction as their staple food, and if you ask an Italian, they'll agree that Split has some of the best pizza they've ever tasted.

Pizzeria Bakra is one of the oldest pizzerias in town and has been serving patrons for over 30 years. The interiors are really rustic with black wooden benches and tables with red accents and dimmed lighting, not to forget the wood-fired oven where you can see the pizzaiolo in action.

The staff at Bakra have been working there for years, giving this place its soul, and at times, attitude. Their pizza is a little on the greasy side but this is exactly why people are coming back; its a wanted grease... They also make a killer lasagne, perfectly matched with an ice cold beer.

Pizzeria Bakra is located within 5 minutes from Riva heading east down the alley next to the bishop's palace towards Bacvice.

Address: Radovanova 2, 21000 Split

Tel: +385 (0)21 488 488

Located right next to the 15^th century City Hall on the famous Pjaca (Narodni Trg), the urban chique décor of this al fresco café and bistro definitely draws curiosity; it positively drew mine… three times in one! This is a popular coffee spot for the city's elite and intellectuals for a morning chat as they observe who is striding across Pjaca in the latest fashion but as the sun starts to get, hip youth swarm to this joint to be seen on this popular square.

When the weather warms, an Istrian super-chef conquers the kitchen as he stirs up a selection of contemporary Croatian dishes crafted with premium ingredients. During one of my late summer nights, the chef started me off with a trio of seafood tartar; sea bream on bob beans, wasabi tuna on diced tomatoes, and shrimp on truffle cream cheese.

Moving on, I opted for the flavorsome beef fillet steak with aromatized potatoes, creamy truffle sauce and saffron.

With a constantly rotating dessert menu, I was served with a favorite creation of mascarpone cantuccini scoops with a wild berry sauce.

No Stress is also known to serve simple breakfasts during the season.

Sit back and don’t stress as you flavor local specialties at another dimension. This al fresco venue provides you with front row seats to Laganini, a Dalmatian expression defining their slow and laid back attitude to life.

Address: Iza lože 9, 21000 Split, Croatia

Restaurant Vagabundo opened its door in summer 2012 and has since then mainly catered to the hotel guests of Hotel Split in Podstrana where it is housed. Somehow, they have managed to stay off the local foodies' radar but after my recent discovery of this gastronomic gem, I hope that hedonists like myself will now add this joint to their list of places to get their memorable culinary injections with a little luxe on the side.

Proprietor and chef, Vinko 'Vice' Marinkovic travelled to the Americas to master his culinary craft, serving as executive chef in Bermuda, the Cayman Islands, and the United States. After 12 years abroad, he returned to his native Croatia and brought with him international experience and a myriad of new recipes. The result was Vagabundo, a restaurant that represents his nomadic food travels, which he opened in Bol, on the island of Brač. After the success of this vibrant eatery placed on a Croatian island, he expanded by opening Vagabundo in Split, following the same concept.

The interior of the restaurant is quite small and perhaps lacks identity with a black and white contemporary feel and bare walls overlooking a modern courtyard garden however, the real surprise is the killer rooftop terrace that can serve 180 diners in the summer with unobstructed west-facing seaviews.

The culinary genre of Vagabundo clearly represents the Mediterranean with classics such as tomato soup, Caesar salad, and homemade gnocchi dotting the menu however, most dishes have added flair and most importantly, Chef Vinko's execution is simply spot on. No canned tomatoes, no 'homemade gnocchi' from a supermarket, actually freshly baked breads, and no dressings from a tube; just pure ingredients combined to make a wholesome dish. Skimming the menu, a few dishes catch my curiosity such as  the vegetable filled pancakes topped with a tomato concasse and basil cream sauce, the linguini with mussels and Chorizo, Champagne risotto, brandy-flamed tournedos, and bruschetta selection.

My friend and I came for dinner at Vagabundo on a quiet Thursday evening and Chef Vinko had, to our positive surprise, already devised our menu so we just had to sit back and let our palates explore his culinary creations.

First up was a litte octopus salad contististing of a few thick slices of tentacles from what clearly must have been from a monstor-sized octopus, topped with a home-marinated anchovy, a raw jumbo shrimp, capers and drizzled with olive oil. Every restaurant here has an octopus salad but most do an overkill of onion and potatoes where you have to dig around to actually find a decent piece of octopus. Vagabundo's approach brought the dish back to basics with two other seafood dimensions; good play.

The simplicity and naughty deliciousness of the next dish was just what the doctor ordered; breaded shrimps with a Dijon mustard honey dip. The texture of the crispy shrimp paired perfectly with the sweet and pungent sauce, although two pieces was not enough more me; this was straighforward comfort food galore.

Before we got cracking on the pasta, we got a heartwarming roasted butternut squash soup, drizzled with olive oil. I enjoyed that the soup was not grainy in the slightest and it was served steaming hot but perhaps a crostini on the side and an aromatized oil (instead of olive oil) would add some flair.

Another Dalmatian restaurant classic is the black cuttlefish risotto and for our pasta course, we got a reinterpretation of this; homemade gnocchi in squid ink with baby cuttlefish. I was surprised as I had never tried baby cuttlefish and admittedly, my sidekick was first drawn back at the thought of baby cuttlefish but we both dug in and were delighted that the texture was very soft, almost the same as the gnocchi; a perfect match.

As a maincourse we got a mini tuna steak, served on a stack of vegetables; roasted capsicum, egged potatoes dauphinoise, Swiss chard, a grilled chantarelle, and a baked cherry tomato. This dish was another tribute to 'back to basics' where the distinguishing flavors each ingredient combined well with the bite of the tender tuna. 

To end off a good night, Chef Vinko handed over the grand finale, dessert. The nameless fluffy dessert combined raw meringe and almonds with a mouthwatering sabayon sauce, topped with strawberry sauce; simply delicious, and again I wished the portion was double in size.

After a shot of carob liquer and a cappuccino we drop back to Split in delight as we realize we have discovered something new and competitive on Split's 'upscale' dining scene.

Restaruant Vagabundo on the lower floor of Croatia's only eco-friendly hotel, Hotel Split in Podstrana, just 8 kilometers south of Split along the coast highway.

Chef Vinko owns and management four restaurants, two on Bol, one in Split, and one in Zagreb. Additionally, he owns Dalmatino Catering & Personal Chef Services where he fully caters to weddings and special functions, corporate events, private dinners in your home, and conducts cooking classes. 

Vagabundo Restaurant & Bar

Hotel Split

Strožanačka 20, 21312 Podstrana

tel.: +385 21 420 420

www.dalmatinocatering.com 

I can’t tell you how many times I have passed Stare Grede with an urge to go in, but all those times I was walking alone and somehow never got the courage. I have heard so many good things about this place being a true local lunch hangout where blue-collars go during break to get the best meat on the market. I even know of an elderly gentleman who ventures across the city several times a week to have a bite of their daily dishes. Finally, it turned out that close friends of mine are regulars there and after I told them “I heard about this place called Stare G…,” they took my by the hand and hurried me in under the old beams of this konoba. Stare Grede means ‘old beams’ you see and this traditional tavern only 1km from the center, is just that; old beams, rustic wooden benches, stone walls, and old photos on the wall. 

We were immediately greeted by the owner who insisted we join him for a dram of heart medicine (a.k.a. rakija or grappa) as an aperitif. I politely passed but my friends accepted without a second thought.

The owner is a hunter so in wintertime, game is a favorite on the menu; his own catch. He bakes his own breads, and a knocks out a reputable peka (meat prepared under a bell covered in coal) on order. He is passionate about sourcing the best produce there is, whether is be local prosciutto, vegetables, and cheese, but meat is really Stare Grede’s forte; so what else but to try some carnivorous delicacies?

The owner’s wife wanted us to try her newest concoction on the house; čvarci paté, a paté made of pork rind, spiced with paprika. Now there is something that warms my heart; it might give me a heart attack in years to come but its so worth it. Surprisingly, the texture wasn’t as lardy as you would think when you know what hides in these balls or calories. Where I come from, we eat crispy rind out of candy bags so this made me felt right at home.

As main, I opted for a real man’s plate of bacon-wrapped steaks on the spit with potatoes à la peka on the side. This joint probably one of the only places in town that asked me how I wanted my meat cooked (medium) instead of than killing the poor piece by making is extra well done. The outcome was simply spectacular; tender meat cuts without the stringy bits, an easy cut, and wholesome crispy potatoes. Steak on a spit meant two spits with four 7cm diameter pieces on each, so eight pieces (!!). Even the real men at the table couldn’t consume the whole plate so luckily I was able to bring my father home some manly food.

After a slow meander home and a well-deserved nap on a very full stomach, I realize that my dining experience at Stare Grede has probably been one of the most authentic to date. I am still craving a revisit to so I have sourced a lunch companion for this afternoon, as rumor has it that their daily dishes run from 29KN only…. so gotta go!

Address: Domovinskog rata 46, Split

Kantun means 'corner' in Croatian; Paulina's Corner is located in the Varoš neighborhood parallel to the Marmontova shopping street. This take-away joint has been serving the city’s patrons with traditional ćevapčići for over 37 years. Take it to go or sit on the bench outside, and if you are lucky you might find yourself sitting next to a fellah with a guitar or harmonica. It’s a great little people watching spot and after a night on the town, its fun to giggle at the drunken by passers with a ćevapčići sandwich in hand…. or maybe I am just easily amused.

So what is ćevapčići (pronounced Chevapchichi; sounds funny right?)? Ćevapčići is a kebab of sorts made of minced meat formed into little sausages and whacked on a fired grill. 5-10 pieces are served in a bun or flatbread called somun. In the mix is also kajmak, a Balkan version of clotted cream, diced onions, and ajvar, another regional ingredient, which is a relish of bell peppers. Ćevapčići are actually considered a national dish in neighbouring Bosnia and Herzegovina but they are also common and much loved here in Croatia.

Other than the region’s favorite ćevapčići, Kantun Paulina also serve up grilled chicken breast, beef patties and other local grill bites.

Address: Matošića 1