Travel

6am on Hvar, Harvesting Lavender with Jadran Lazic: Stunning!

By 6 July 2017

The island of Hvar is famous for many things, including its lavender. An early start for TCN on July 6, 2017, as we lend a hand with celebrated photographer Jadran Lazic for the most aromatic activity of all - the annual lavender harvest.

There are not many people who can get me out of bed at 04:30 in the morning with the prospect of hard physical labour before 6am, but one such man - if only once a year - is celebrated Croatian photographer Jadran Lazic. Jadran, of course, was the man who brought a young Jodie Foster to Hvar in 1978, just one of his many celebrity friends, but these days he has swapped his ritzy lifestyle for his one real passion on the island - his beloved lavender fields on top of the island, high above Zavala. 

For an island which prides itself on its lavender credentials, there is precious little left these days (please don't tell the tourists), and so when Jadran told me that he had planted 300 young lavender bushes somewhere on the top of Hvar, which were already two years old, I was more than a little curious. Curious enough to accept his offer four years ago to accompany him on his first harvest. Why 6am? Quite simply due to the heat. It was already too hot by 7am, and my thoughts were with those previous generations of Dalmatians who plied the same trade in former generations, without the luxury of air-conditioned Jeeps for the steep ascent, relying solely on their trusty donkeys. A really tough life.

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This is how Jadran's main lavender field looked in 2013, its first year. Beautiful, but with lavender bushes not close to their full potential.  

The harvesting was quick and a one-man show, and I watched in awe (and gratitude) at this worker's skills with the sickle.  

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Fast forward four years, and the lavender was grown majestically, not only much more beautiful, but a lot more to harvest, and I was grateful to see a posse of 15 helpers, aged from 12 to Jadran's mum at a sprightly 85, ready to take on the task.  

Some were better than others, and I watched this young man at work to pick up a few tips before starting my own lavender hacking attempts.  

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And some workers were definitely tidier than others...

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It did not take long to clear the field of the fruits of its aromatic crop. Onto the next field!

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There were willing tourists, who played a sizable contribution, and even entered into the spirit of the 06:30 rakija and doughnuts on offer from our hospitable host.  

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Ms. Eco Hvar was leading from the front as usual.  

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And willing help from the next generation of lavender harvesting. 

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And after the pick, father and son combine to pack the precious lavender.  

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Young Jadran, surveys his kingdom, making sure all the lavender has been harvested. 

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Seven full bags in total.  

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Time to reward the workers, as the grill was fired up.  

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A thirsty and jolly bunch.  

And what a setting. Jadran's magnificent lavender palace and view can be seen in the video above. 

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Off to Humac and the lavender distillery to turn the harvest into therapeutic lavender oil.  

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And a short time later, Jadran was rewarded with some 2.5 litres of his favourite oil. 

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A good morning's work, and a wonderful insight into the traditional way of life on Hvar. And my hands have never smelled so good. 

Thank you Jadran. See at 05:15 by the entrance to the Pitve tunnel this time next year... 

(With thanks to Jadran Lazic and Vivian Grisogono for some of the photos - the good ones)

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