A very few places in Croatia celebrate the New Year at midday on New Year's Eve. In 2016, some of Jelsa's dynamic young energies got together to follow suit.
The celebrations were centred on the phenomenally successful 'U Smokve' restaurant. Run by Irena and Ambroz Grgičević, it's small inside, yet it's building a big and well-deserved reputation for high-quality, imaginative menus coupled with that irreplaceable magic ingredient, genuinely friendly service. The weather in Jelsa on December 31st 2016 was mercifully kind, not too cold, with no sign of the fierce bura, the northerly wind which had sent everyone indoors during the previous couple of days.
That was just as well, because a fair crowd of people turned up to enjoy the festivities in the little waterfront square where U Smokve resides. They were not disappointed. There was something for everyone, hot snack foods, warming drinks, wonderful unnamed culinary concoctions to delight the senses.The barbecued sausages were particularly popular.
People gathered round the wine barrel tables to chat, eat, drink - and, inevitably, to smoke. There was much milling around, and joyous embraces as old friends caught up with each other.
The music was turned up loud, and people of all ages danced to the irresistible beat.
The celebrations were a joint effort between U Smokve and Jelsa's other highly prized dynamic restaurants, 'Me and Mrs Jones' and 'Step up'. While Me and Mrs Jones is long established on the choice eateries scene in Jelsa, Step up is a new addition, which is already making its mark, and is boldly maintaining a welcoming winter presence alongside U Smokve. For the New Year celebrations, it was all hands on deck in smooth cooperation. There was much rushing between U Smokve's kitchen and the outdoor counter to keep the supplies running smoothly.
There were plenty of activities for the young, both indoors and out. Much credit for this goes to Stjepan of Hvar Adventure Park, an enterprise which offers numerous fun and challenging activities for all age groups.
The bow and arrow target shooting proved a big hit - or, to put it more accurately, hitting the target with the soft-ball arrow proved to be a difficult and compulsive challenge.
Driving around Jelsa's peaceful paved pathways in very smart buggies brought out the talents of some new young drivers. Perfect road etiquette was maintained, with no accidents of any kind, no road rage, no traffic congestion. Let's hope they keep up that record when they progress to driving real cars!
As midday approached, there was a count-down from the Master of Ceremonies, Dražen Sarjanović, one of the selfless stalwarts on Jelsa's entertainments scene.
Little beakers were filled - not with beer, nor indeed with champagne, but with a soothing smooth liqueur.
Then on the dot of midday, cheers and sparkling confetti went up, the latter coming down in a glittering cascade. There was a blessed absence of fireworks and firecrackers, so no threats to life or limb.
There were congratulations all round. The tirelessly cheerful organisers could be well pleased with the results of their efforts.
U Smokve has had much to celebrate this year, and has even more to look forward to in 2017. Irena, established herself as a force for the good in Jelsa just a few years ago when she founded the charity Održivi otok / Sustainable Island, and set about organizing diverse events - all of them resounding successes - including tree-planting to regenerate Hvar's autochthonous Black Pines, renovating Hvar's historical footpaths, and festivals in the protected village of Humac. Then she was Irena Dorić. Now teamed up with husband Ambroz Grgičević, the sky's the limit, and we can look forward to countless more worthwhile achievements. Power to your communal elbow, Irena and Ambroz!
When the organisers enjoy the event as much as their guests, it's the mark of a good party. This particular party proved that it is possible to have a good time without getting drunk and disorderly, and without polluting the environment and scaring animals and sensitive people with dangerous explosives, aka fireworks. A party such as this provides freedom for the young, within a safe environment. It is the perfect lesson in enjoyment without tears. The local expression for 'Happy New Year' is 'Na dobro vam došlo Mlado Lito', which can be translated as 'May the Young Year be good for you'. A Young Year plus enthusiastic young energies, surely it's a combinastion of unbounded hope and possibilities. 2017 is a year full of promise for Jelsa. May everyone's happiness be fulfilled!
© Vivian Grisogono MA(Oxon) 2016
