Peak season madness is over, traffic congestion a thing of the past.
I love the second half of September on Hvar, as local thoughts move from tourism to vineyards and then to olives. Businesses start to close, few tourists remain, and waiters become builders. The cafes debate the success of the tourist season, and the annual sport of Waiting for Next Season begins. It will be a long winter on that score.
And, as the tourist hordes have left, so the locals adjust to daily life, some with a little more style than others.
Shopping on horseback in Vrboska, for example. You don't see that every day of the week in Manchester.
